Читать книгу Trekking in Mallorca - Paddy Dillon - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands, basking in sunny splendour in the Mediterranean between Spain and Algeria. It has been a favourite destination for sun-starved northern Europeans for many decades. While beach holidays remain popular, more and more visitors seek the quieter pleasures of rural Mallorca, especially taking opportunities to explore the island’s most rugged mountain range, the Serra de Tramuntana.
In the high mountains there is more shade among the evergreen oak and pines, with cooling breezes to temper the heat of the sun. Away from the bustling resorts the pace of life in the mountain villages is more sedate and relaxing. Almond trees burst into blossom, oranges ripen in the sun and vineyards yield heavy bunches of grapes. Kid goats bleat plaintively, often unseen among the undergrowth, while bongling bells alert shepherds to the location of their free-range sheep and cattle. Every so often, emerging from the forests, walkers discover the sun-scorched façades of palatial country mansions, wayside ermitas and little casetas. In a sense, the visitor who is prepared to walk can forget everything they’ve ever heard about Mallorca and start afresh by making new discoveries every day, around every corner.
As walking became more and more popular over the years and guidebooks proliferated in many languages, the island authorities began to purchase some extensive rural estates, protecting them from development and marking paths and tracks for walkers. It was only a matter of time before they turned their attention to the creation of a long-distance walking route.
The Camí des Correu runs through dense holm oak woodland (Stage 5)
Serra de Tramuntana
Serra de Tramuntana translates as ‘Mountains of the North’, and they form an incredibly rugged range stretching all the way along the northern flank of Mallorca. The Paratge Natural de la Serra de Tramuntana, or Nature Area of the Serra de Tramuntana, was designated in 2007, covering an area of approximately 625 square kilometres (240 square miles). Although the mountains are predominantly limestone, the coastline often features a complex mix of rock types. Pine forests and extensive holm oak woodlands abound, with cultivated areas featuring olive groves, citrus groves and nut groves. Terraced slopes near the towns and villages produce abundant crops, while bare, rocky mountainsides are colonised by tough plants that form dense maquis, or patchy garigue formations. These rugged mountains form the backdrop for trekking through Mallorca.
Around 90 per cent of the Serra de Tramuntana is private property, and many regular walkers can tell tales about access problems. On the other hand, every few years extensive mountain estates come onto the market and some of these have been purchased and opened to the public. Some of the most notable acquisitions and recreational areas, from west to east, include: Finca Galatzó, Sa Coma d’en Vidal, Son Fortuny, Planícia, Son Moragues, Cúber and Menut. There are plenty of places where walkers are welcome, or at least tolerated, and the provision of the long-distance GR221 is a splendid way to trek all the way through the Serra de Tramuntana from end to end.
GR221 – Ruta de Pedra en Sec
The GR221 is also known as the Ruta de Pedra en Sec, or the Drystone Route. It was created by the Consell de Mallorca, or more specifically the Department de Natura i Medi Ambient, with input from local councils. While the eastern and central parts are well-signposted and fully waymarked, there is still some work to be done on the western parts, as well as on some of the alternative routes. Some old paths high in the mountains have been completely rebuilt at considerable expense, and one very popular path is protected along with its landscape as a site of cultural interest. The main route measures around 140km (87 miles) and is split into ten daily stages in this guidebook. However, there are half a dozen major variant routes, allowing several alternative start and finish points.
Most of the mountainous, well-wooded Serra de Tramuntana is made of limestone, which has provided the raw material to build all kinds of structures from humble huts to splendid palaces and churches. The limestone readily breaks into blocks, and uses can be found even for broken chippings. It can be burnt to produce lime for mortar or whitewash. Place one lump of limestone carefully on top of another and all manner of drystone constructions are possible.
Trekking the GR221 involves walking on the bare limestone bedrock of Mallorca, or following old stone-paved paths through the mountains. Massive drystone buttresses, or marges, hold cultivation terraces in place on steep mountainsides. Stone channels, or canaletes, carry water to where it is needed. Strange stone structures encountered along the way include large limekilns and igloo-like bread ovens. Circular sitges, or charcoal burning platforms, often have the crude stone hut of a carboner, or charcoal burner, alongside. There are drystone walls, cairns and stone-lined snow-pits on the high mountains, all created from limestone blocks. In effect, the GR221 is a celebration of the outdoor life and backbreaking labour of the mountains of Mallorca, as well as being a scenic and interesting route.
The GR221 visits several attractive little mountain villages, as well as passing through a couple of fine towns, often following old mule paths from one to another. The villages generally provide good accommodation and offer a selection of bars and restaurants, as well as a couple of shops stocking provisions. They also have good bus services, allowing trekkers to join or leave the route, or even commute to and from the route from a base far away. A splendid range of services is available along the route, and this guidebook contains all the details required to follow the GR221 through the mountains over a period of one or two weeks.
Looking from Puig de Maria, across Pollença, back to Calvari (Stage 10 extension)
Brief history of Mallorca
Mallorca has been inhabited for more than 6000 years, when the earliest settlers lived in caves, hunted and kept animals, made stone tools and employed certain rituals when burying their dead. Around 4000 years ago, stone buildings and large towers, or talaiots, were constructed, suggesting highly organised societies working together for the common good, while clearly engaging in serious disputes with their neighbours.
The Carthaginians established trading posts and often recruited local people to defend them. Most of the ports on the island had their origins around this time. The Romans invaded Mallorca in 123BC, but much of their work was later destroyed by Vandals from North Africa. After the breakup of the Roman Empire, the Byzantine general Belisarius dealt with the Vandals, and the Balearic islands were linked with what is now Tunisia. As part of the Byzantine Empire, Mallorca again became a trading post protected by military might.
Arab raids commenced in AD707. Arab settlers profoundly influenced the development of agriculture. The legacy of these times is recalled in placenames – Bini means ‘house of’, as in Binibassi and Biniaraix. In the city of Palma the Moorish arches of the Almudaina palace and the Arab baths can still be seen.
In 1229 Jaume I of Aragon, ‘The Conqueror’, led a fleet of 150 ships and an army of 16,000 men to Mallorca. Their intention was to land at Port de Pollença, but they were prevented from doing so by storms so they sheltered in the lee of Sa Dragonera and later landed at Santa Ponça. The re-conquest was completed in 1230, but this didn’t lead to peaceful times. Disputes between Jaume’s sons, passed on to their sons and heirs, led to successive invasions, but the royal line continued through Jaume II and Jaume III, the latter being killed in battle in 1349. The reign of independent kings ended, and Aragon took direct control of the island.
Mallorca’s chequered history continued with invasions, rebellions and natural disasters such as earthquakes, floods, and outbreaks of cholera and bubonic plague. Watchtowers, or talaies, were built between 1550 and 1650 on high vantage points, so that invaders and pirates could be spotted in good time. In 1716 Mallorca finally lost the title of kingdom and became a province of Spain. Neighbouring islands had similarly convoluted histories, with Menorca spending the best part of the 18th century as a British possession. In the 20th century, the Catalan language was suppressed under Franco’s dictatorship, but has since flourished and is now very evident throughout Mallorca.
Mountain heritage
The GR221 highlights the heritage of the mountains, and especially the built heritage, which often uses nothing more basic than roughly hewn lumps of limestone. On the lower cultivated slopes, the terraces are held in place by huge drystone buttresses and watered by stone-lined channels. Water may be stored in tanks (cisternas), or small underground reservoirs (aljubs), all built of stone.
Look out for large stone-lined pits, which are limekilns (forns de calç), on the lower wooded slopes, where fuel was readily available. On the highest mountainsides, larger and deeper stone-lined snow-pits (cases de sa neu) were used for storing snow and ice. In dense holm oak woodland look out for the dark, flat, circular, moss-grown remains of the charcoal burning platforms – trekkers sometimes use these as wild-camp sites, but it is very difficult to get pegs into the hard-baked ground. Somewhere nearby will be the low remains of the circular huts of the charcoal burner. Stone-built outdoor bread ovens are also likely to be spotted nearby, while drystone walls and cairns abound almost everywhere.
Snow collecting
Snow-pits are found on many of Mallorca’s highest mountains
The highest paths on Mallorca were built by snow collectors (nevaters). Snow was collected to make ice for use in the summer and conserved in snow-pits (cases de sa neu). These are found scattered around Puig Major, Puig de Massanella, Puig Tomir, Es Teix and Serra d’Alfàbia, mostly above 900m (2950ft). The pits were usually circular, oval, or occasionally rectangular, partly or wholly below ground level. When the mountains were covered with snow, groups of men went up to gather it into baskets. Flat platforms were made and cleared of vegetation, where the snow was arranged in layers and trampled down hard to pack it into ice, in time to the following rhyme:
Pitgen sa neu, pitgen sa neu,
i tots estan dins ses cases!
Peguen potades, peguen potades,
en Toni, en Xisco, en Juan i n’Andreu.
Tramp the snow, tramp the snow,
and throw it in the pit!
Beat it down, beat it down,
on Tony, Harry, John and Andrew.
The packed snow was put into the pit and each layer was covered with càrritx, a tall pampas-like grass, to make it easier to split the blocks later. When the pit was full it was covered with ashes, branches and more càrritx, then carefully guarded. On summer nights blocks of ice were taken down on mules to the villages and towns. It was not only used for ice creams and cooling drinks, but also for medicinal preparations. The local authority controlled the price and a tax was fixed on it. Sometimes ice had to be imported from the mainland, but in glut years it was exported to neighbouring Menorca. The last time a snow-pit was used was in 1925 on Puig de Massanella. The industry was killed stone-dead by the advent of modern refrigeration techniques.
Charcoal burning
Complex networks of paths were made by charcoal burners. Almost every evergreen oakwood was once used for the production of charcoal. Charcoal burning hearths are flat circular areas, often ringed by stones and now covered with bright green moss. They often serve as landmarks in the route descriptions in this guidebook. They are referred to as ‘sitges’ (singular sitja). Charcoal burning lasted until butane gas became popular in the 1920s, although in some areas production lasted a while longer. Charcoal was used specifically for cooking, being preferred over wood because it was cleaner and gave a steadier heat.
A sitja is a circular area where charcoal was produced
Carboners started work in April, living and working all summer in the woods with their families. They had to watch their hearths carefully, as charcoal burning was a delicate operation and everything could be ruined in a moment of neglect. The idea was to carbonise the wood, not burn it to ash. Carboners lived in simple, circular stone huts, roofed with branches and grass. The remains of huts, as well as modern reconstructions, are often seen in the woods, along with igloo-like stone bread ovens nearby.
A restored carboner’s hut, where a charcoal burner would have lived
Axes and enormous two-handed saws were used to fell large oaks, of a diameter stipulated by the landowner. Each carboner had his own area, or ranxo. A circular site was prepared, with stones carefully arranged so that the air intake was limited, causing the wood to carbonise without igniting it. Logs and branches were arranged in a dome, leaving a narrow central chimney. Gravel and clay were heaped over it, and a ladder was used to reach the chimney, so that the carboner could start the firing process.
The weight of the wood was reduced by 75–80 per cent and each firing lasted up to 12 days. Sieved earth was used for quenching and the covering was then removed. The hot charcoal was extracted with a shovel and rake, and an average burn could produce around 2800 kilos (2¾ tons) of produce. Once cool, the charcoal pieces were graded, loaded onto mules and taken to towns and villages for sale. Bark from the oak trees was also collected and used for tanning.
Lime burning
Limekilns are seen throughout the woodlands in the mountains. They are quite different from those seen in Britain, as they lack a draw-hole at the bottom, and are simply deep, stone-lined pits. Great heat was needed to split the calcium carbonate (CaCO³) into calcium oxide (CaO) and carbon dioxide (CO²), so a plentiful supply of wood was necessary. Although a vast amount of limestone is available, the stones used to produce lime were always chosen very carefully, and were referred to as pedra viva or ‘living stones’.
At the base of the pit, a dome was built of large stones with gaps left between them for aeration. Above the dome, more stones were built up, and the spaces around the sides of the kiln were filled with the actual stones that were to be converted into lime. The interior was filled with wood and the top of the kiln was covered with earth. The fire was lit and kept burning for up to two weeks, with more wood added continually. Huge quantities of wood were needed – up to 155,000 kilos (150 tons) – leading to devastation of the forests and producing as little as 10,000 kilos (10 tons) of lime. It was very hard work and it brought little financial reward. According to an old proverb, ‘qui fa calç, va descalç’, or ‘he who makes lime goes barefoot’. Lime was used for the annual whitewashing of houses and also for making mortar.
Plants and wildlife
Trees, shrubs and flowers
Trees on Mallorca come in four main types – pines, oaks, olives and palms – but there are also several minor types. Overall, the forests and woodlands are green and leafy throughout the year owing to the predominance of evergreen species. Abundant Aleppo pines can grow almost anywhere from sea level to 1000m (3280ft). They usually grow tall and straight, but can be twisted in exposed locations. Holm oaks are the commonest of the evergreen oaks. They grow in dense woodlands and were exploited for the production of charcoal. Olives may have grown wild on Mallorca before being cultivated. Some of the thickest and most gnarled specimens are over 1000 years old. Dwarf fan palms grow mostly at lower elevations, but are abundant around the start of the GR221.
Rock rose – one of many varieties of cistus found among the scrub
Other common trees include the strawberry tree, with its strange edible fruit, and the carob which produces distinctive pods that are high in sugar and contain tooth-breaking seeds. Citrus fruits, oranges and lemons, are picked around January and are most abundant around Sóller. Almond trees blossom pink and white around February, and were first planted on a large scale in 1765.
Woody shrubs include various species of broom, including some that bristle with thorns, blazing with yellow flowers in March and April. The resin-scented lentisk grows almost anywhere, and aromatic rosemary is also common. Heather tends to form feathery clumps and some species are like small trees.
Plants such as amaryllis and asphodels thrive in rocky, barren places, but many other flowering plants manage to eke out an existence. There are Mallorcan varieties of St John’s Wort, for example, and several species of cistus. Two species of spiny plants, despite being quite separate, are both referred to as coixinets de monja or ‘nuns’ sewing cushions’. Another spiny plant is smilax, known locally as aritja, giving rise to the placename aritges. Shrubby euphorbias, or spurges, contain a milky, latex sap, and some bushy species are referred to as tree spurges. Delightful little flowers include tiny crocuses and cyclamens, sometimes appearing to grow from bare rock, but actually rooted in tiny crevices.
Pines are common along the route, but many suffer from fire damage
Most open mountainsides, as well as sunny spots inside woods and forests, may be covered with a tall pampas-like grass, Ampelodesmus mauritanica, which is best referred to by its common name of càrritx. It looks innocuous from a distance but can prove troublesome on closer acquaintance. Avoid stepping on its long fronds with one foot, which can form a loop, tripping walkers as they bring their next foot forward. Get into the habit of high-stepping past càrritx to avoid tripping.
Animals
Sheep grazing among old orchards on the descent to Son Fortuny (Alternative start C)
Whatever large mammals once roamed Mallorca, only feral goats remain, along with domesticated sheep, a few cattle and fewer pigs. Bells draw attention to farm stock foraging on the mountainsides. Signs reading ‘Big Game Hunting’ might seem alarming, but they refer to the hunting of feral goats, which is permitted on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays from October to February. Hunters are unlikely to shoot across popular paths, but walkers should be aware of their presence. In the unlikely event that you find yourself too close to a shooting party, yell loudly in any language!
Most of the mammals native to the island are small, including pine martens, weasels, hedgehogs, bats, hares, rabbits and rodents, and many of them are hunted by birds of prey. Snakes are only rarely spotted and should cause no concern to walkers. Geckos are unlikely to be seen, except by those keeping a keen watch. Frogs and toads may be common in well-watered areas, and they are notable near the large reservoirs at Cúber and Gorg Blau. Snails can be easy to spot because of their distictive shells. Insect life includes abundant butterflies in spring and summer, and even more species of moths. In the hot summer months cicadas and grasshoppers chirp and whir in the vegetation.
A notable ‘pest’ insect is the pine processionary moth. The female lays up to 200 eggs, which hatch into voracious caterpillars that can cause great damage to trees. They live in dense, spherical webs and move to new foraging areas by marching nose-to-tail, thus giving rise to their name. Don’t handle them, as they are covered in hairs that can irritate the skin. They are constantly monitored and controlled using pheromone traps.
Bird watching
Serious bird watchers should get in touch with the local experts, the Grup Ornitològic Balear (GOB), www.gobmallorca.com. GOB has long been involved in renovating an old building as a refugi at La Trapa, above Sant Elm. Unfortunately, construction has stalled and its future is in doubt. Other Mallorcans have a passion for hunting birds, especially thrushes, which cause a lot of damage to olive groves. Shooting and netting take place from the end of August to the end of January, but this should not inconvenience walkers as it usually occurs in the evenings. Most species of birds are protected.
The black vulture is unmistakeable when seen above remote mountains. Numbers dropped alarmingly in the last century and a programme was set up to assist their recovery. This involves minimising disturbance, leaving carrion out for them, setting up breeding programmes and introducing black vultures from other areas. The breeding season is exceptionally long, extending from January through to July. One stretch of the GR221 was planned to climb above Valldemossa, through an area frequented by black vultures. Permits are now required to walk in that area, so the projected course of the GR221 has been shifted onto other paths. Black vultures are more usually seen over the Serra de Tramuntana between Sóller and Pollença.
Raptors include red kites, peregrines, kestrels and booted eagles. Harriers are occasional visitors, while ospreys may be seen at the large reservoirs at Cúber and Gorg Blau. Eleanora’s falcon breeds along the northern coastal cliffs.
Hoopoes are eagerly spotted in many places, while large flocks of crag martins are notable in the mountains in winter. Alpine accentors also frequent the highest mountains in winter. The blue rock thrush keeps itself out of sight, while swifts breed safely on cliffs. During the winter there is a big influx of birds from northern Europe, including starlings, thrushes, finches, waders and wildfowl. Woodlands support blackcaps, black redstarts, crossbills and goldfinches. Look out for white wagtail, meadow pipits, serins and greenfinches. Linnets and great tits are common and robins and chaffinches are abundant. Firecrests are found fairly high in the mountains.
Travel to Mallorca
By air
Most visitors fly to Mallorca from airports as far apart as Iceland and Israel, from all over Europe, including over two dozen British airports. The choice of routes and airlines is bewildering, but there are plenty of budget operators and deals for those willing to search online. It is worth accessing the Palma de Mallorca airport website to discover just how many routes and operators are available, www.aena.es/csee/Satellite/Aeropuerto-Palma-Mallorca
By road or rail
Few travellers consider an overland journey to Mallorca, but the Mediterranean ports of Barcelona and Valencia are served by trains and buses. For coach travel check Eurolines, www.eurolines.com, or for trains check www.renfe.com. Driving overland is a very time-consuming approach, but may suit British expatriates living in southern Spain.
Ferries
Ferries sail from Barcelona and Valencia to Palma, including Iscomar, www.iscomar.com, Trasmediterranea, www.trasmediterranea.es, and Balearia, www.balearia.com. Ferries berth so close to Palma that it is possible to walk straight through the historic city centre for onward bus or rail connections, or use EMT bus 1 to get from the port to the Estació Intermodal on Plaça d’Espanya. Some buses heading west to the GR221 can be caught near the ferryport, without the need to go into the city. These include bus 102 to Port d’Andratx and bus 111 to Calvià and es Capdellà.
Taking or hiring a car
Taking a car to Mallorca is not a good idea. The GR221 is linear and returning to a parked car is a huge inconvenience. Some walkers may wish to use a car in order to have a personalised backup service. If so, choose a good navigator to meet you at intervals along the route. Car hire can be arranged in advance, on arrival at the airport or through most hotels.
Travel plans
Shop around travel agents or browse websites to find appropriate flight, coach, rail and ferry schedules, as well as fair prices. Choose outward and return dates, but build in a couple of extra days in case delays, fatigue or inclement weather cause alterations to your planned walking schedule. See Appendix E for a selection of useful contacts.
Travel around Mallorca
By train
There are only two railway lines leaving the centre of Palma, just off the Plaça d’Espanya. An expensive, rickety, vintage train called the Ferrocarril de Sóller runs northwards to Bunyola. It then passes through 13 tunnels beneath the Serra d’Alfàbia and spirals down to Sóller. It links with an electric tram to Port de Sóller. For timetables, tel 971 752051 or 971 752028, www.trendesoller.com.
Serveis Ferroviaris de Mallorca (SFM) trains don’t serve the GR221 directly, although buses can be caught from a couple of railway stations along the line to points on the GR221. For instance, bus 320 links the Consell-Alaró station with Alaró, and bus 330 links the Inca station with Caimari and Lluc. For train timetables, tel 971 177777, www.tib.org.
A vintage tram, or ‘tranvia’, links Sóller and Port de Sóller
By bus
Bus timetables are published to cover summer (April to September) and winter (October to March) seasons. The Estació Intermodal in Palma provides them, and they are posted on brightly coloured bus stops around Mallorca, but otherwise printed copies are difficult to obtain. Most buses, but by no means all of them, are red and yellow. Buses run from early until late, but some remote villages have few buses. A list of useful bus services covering all parts of the GR221 is given in Appendix C. For bus timetables, tel 971 177777, www.tib.org.
By taxi
Taxis are available in all towns and most villages throughout Mallorca, usually close to the main squares or near popular hotels. Cars are generally white, with a stripe bearing the crest of the local municipality. The green sign Lliure/Libre means ‘free’ and any taxi displaying this can be used. In case of difficulty ask your hotel, or a roadside bar, to call one for you. Offer a couple of Euros if they seem reluctant. A general rule of thumb is that a long taxi journey will cost five times more than the bus fare. If three or four walkers share a taxi, the individual cost is close to the bus fare for the same journey. You can ask to see a scale of charges approved by the local municipality, but if you want to go on a long journey you may have to pay the fare both ways even if you’re not returning. Tips of 10 per cent of the fare are customary.
Transport to and from the GR221
Reaching the start
Catch an EMT bus from the airport into Palma. Get off at Plaça d’Espanya and walk into the nearby Estació Intermodal. Bus 102 runs directly to Port d’Andratx, otherwise use bus 111 to reach the alternative starting points of es Capdellà and Calvià. If arriving by ferry, both these buses can be caught near the port without needing to go into Palma.
Reaching the middle
Details of trains, buses and taxis are given at appropriate points along the course of the GR221 in this guidebook. Most villages along the route have good connections with neighbouring villages, as well as with Palma, and it is often possible to commute to and from the route, or leave the route in search of accommodation. Always arrive at a bus stop in good time, as the bus will not stop anywhere else. If in doubt, ask local people where the bus stop, or parada, is located.
Leaving the route
Bus 340 runs direct from Pollença to Palma. If using one of the alternative finishing points, other buses can be caught. These include bus 221 from Orient to Bunyola, which must be booked in advance, linking with bus 220 to Palma. Bus 320 can be caught at Alaró, linking with the SFM railway at the Consell/Alaró station. Bus 330 can be caught at Caimari, linking with other buses or trains at Inca. Once in Palma, EMT bus 1 runs frequently from Plaça d’Espanya to the airport and ferryport.
When to go
In theory the GR221 could be walked at any time of the year, but the peak summer period is very hot and any strenuous activity is quite exhausting. Spring and autumn are usually warm and clear, with a chance of rain, and most walkers would be happy with conditions at these times. The winter months can be clear and warm, but there is a greater risk of rain and the possibility of cold winds and snow on higher ground. Roughly every 20 years the whole of Mallorca is covered in snow, all the way down to the beaches, making transport to the GR221 and walks along mountain paths difficult.
Note the large number of religious or cultural holidays, or festas, on the island. Many businesses close on these days and public transport operates a reduced level of service. The main dates are 1 and 6 January, 1 March, Easter (Thursday to Monday), 1 May, 25 July, 15 August, 12 October, 1 November and 6, 8, 25 and 26 December. Some towns and villages have local festas, but these usually only affect local businesses and not public transport.
Mountain weather on Mallorca
Mallorca has a typical Mediterranean climate with mild, damp winters and hot, dry summers. The relative humidity is around 70 per cent throughout the year. This, together with sea breezes, makes the hot summer days bearable, providing you are not walking uphill too much. There are nearly 300 sunny days in the year and even the winter months see an average of five hours of sunshine a day.
Rain usually falls in heavy showers that soon clear up, although there are occasional days of torrential rain in the late autumn and early spring. The rainfall is greatest over the high mountains and least on the south coast. Snow is common on the mountain tops in winter but very rare at sea level, with falls there recorded in 1956, 1985 and 2005. When snow falls deeply on the mountain paths, they can be quite difficult to follow. Take nothing for granted with the weather, and obtain a forecast whenever possible.
The route could be in the Torrent de la Vall d’en Marc after rain (Stage 10)
Accommodation
The main tourism website for Mallorca is www.infomallorca.net. Tourist information offices are located in all the main resorts, but not all of them operate through the winter. Staff at these offices usually speak English and can assist with information about accommodation, transport and visitor attractions. There is a tourist information office at the airport and others in Palma if assistance is needed before trekking. Other offices are found along the GR221 and are listed in Appendix E.
Accommodation along the GR221 varies widely. Hotels occur at intervals along the way, and refuges, or refugis, are also available. There is only one campsite, which is at Lluc, but many trekkers manage by wild-camping. Although it is possible to commute fairly easily to and from the GR221 from the city of Palma, don’t assume that it would be easy to do so from one of the main tourist resorts around the coast. The best way to appreciate the GR221 is to stay on the trail and stay at a different place along it each night.
All accommodation options are open for most of the year. Some hotels close in the winter. Refugis are often available throughout the year, but the only way to be certain is to contact them in advance with specific dates.
Hotels
Hotels of varying grades are available in every town along the GR221 and almost every village, but some places have far more hotels than others. (See Appendix D for a list.) In Valldemossa, lodgings tend to be quite expensive, but buses allow walkers to move off-route in search of better deals. Former monastic cells at Lluc provide unusual and comfortable accommodation for visitors and are remarkably good value. Bear in mind that all beds could be taken at peak holiday periods, but most of the popular online accommodation booking websites will reveal something, somewhere. Prices range from about €40 per person in a budget hotel to well above €100 in some places, with meals costing extra. Prices of meals vary in hotels, and it is often possible to forgo whatever is offered and eat at a nearby restaurant instead. Breakfast buffets are usually very good value.
Refugis
The Consell de Mallorca established a number of excellent refugis, generally by restoring old buildings and equipping them to a high standard. In terms of services and facilities, they are like very good hostels, with beds in dormitories. They are certainly grander than the average Alpine refuge and are extremely good value. Since being established, some of the refugis continue to be administered centrally by the Consell, while others are run independently. In a few places, privately-owned refugis have opened, and a couple of long-established pilgrim hostels, or hostatgerias, are also available.
The Refugi de Son Amer is surrounded by forested slopes (Alternative finish F)
Mallorcans were very quick to take advantage of such economic yet quality accommodation, so weekends tend to be particularly busy with family groups. Trekkers who want a quieter experience would be well advised to avoid holiday periods and weekends, and use the refugis on less busy weekdays wherever possible.
Booking beds in the Consell-administered refugis can be done online at www.conselldemallorca.net (select English and follow the links), but be sure to follow the instructions, pay a deposit and keep a note of the confirmation. At the privately owned refugis it is possible to phone in advance. Sometimes it is possible just turn up at refugis without booking and hope for the best, but have a plan in place in case they are full. Meals are available and can either be booked in advance or organised on arrival. Packed lunches may also be available. There will be ‘rules’ that need to be observed, so that everyone enjoys a pleasant stay. The provision of refugis along the GR221 is as follows:
La Trapa – construction has been stalled for some time
Ses Fontanelles – privately owned, near Km104 on the Ma-10
Sa Coma d’en Vidal – a Consell property for groups only
Son Trias – privately owned, at Esporles
Can Boi – a Consell property at Deià
Muleta – a Consell property near Port de Sóller
Tossals Verds – a remote Consell property
Castell d’Alaró – a pilgrim hostatgeria on Puig d’Alaró
Pont Romà – operated on behalf of the Consell at Pollença
Puig de Maria – a pilgrim hostatgeria above Pollença
Camping
There is only one campsite on the GR221, which is at Lluc. It is modern and replaces a site that was very run-down. Trying to use the campsite as a base for tackling the GR221 simply won’t work effectively. It is increasingly common to notice many trekkers carrying full backpacking gear along the trail. Evidently, they are quietly establishing unobtrusive wild camps along the way. If considering this approach, bear in mind that it is illegal, so you must be very discreet and leave no evidence of overnight stops. The level platforms of old sitges among dense holm oak woods are popular among wild campers!
Language
There are two official languages in Mallorca: Castilian Spanish and Catalan. Catalan is spoken from Andorra to València, as well as on the Balearic Islands. Mallorquí is a dialect of Catalan and includes words of French and Arabic origin. No-one expects visitors to learn Catalan, let alone Mallorquí, and any Spanish you learn will be readily understood. Many people in the main resorts and large hotels speak English, German and other languages, but this may not be the case in small villages and in the countryside.
Catalan in its written form may be understood by anyone with a knowledge of Spanish, but the spoken language is another matter. Between themselves, most islanders speak Mallorquí, so conversations on buses and in bars and shops may be incomprehensible to visitors. However, if you speak a little Spanish you will find that people are delighted and will help you all they can, and even more so if you attempt to converse in Catalan. It is well worth taking the trouble to learn a few words and phrases so as to be able to pass the time of day with local people.
Placenames
Most places in Mallorca had two names in the past, Spanish and Mallorquí. Since Mallorquí was given equal status with Spanish, almost all Spanish placenames have vanished from signposts and street signs. In fact, only in a few tourist resorts are there any Spanish signs to be seen, and Mallorquí may be the only language in evidence in rural areas.
Confusion is likely to arise if you use old maps and guidebooks, which generally show only Spanish placenames. Spanish IGN maps have mostly switched to Mallorquí placenames, and the popular Editorial Alpina maps use only Mallorquí placenames. As a rule, many placenames look similar, regardless of whether they are in Spanish or Mallorquí, but some hotels and businesses insist on using Spanish forms for their addresses. For visitors, this could be confusing if your hotel is listed as being in Puerto Sóller or Pollensa, but the only road signs you see are for Port de Sóller or Pollença!
See Appendix B for basic phrases and useful words in English, Spanish and Catalan, along with a topographical glossary for use when interpreting placenames on maps.
Money
The Euro is the currency of Mallorca. Large denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and avoid the €100 notes if you can. The rest are fine: €50, €20, €10 and €5. Coins come in €2 and €1. Small denomination coins come in values of 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c. Bus drivers will appreciate the correct change and will frown on large notes.
Banks and ATMs are mentioned in route descriptions if further supplies of cash are needed. Many accommodation providers will accept major credit and debit cards, as will large supermarkets, but small bars, shops and cafés deal only in cash.
Some insurance policies may class a walk along the GR221 as a hazardous pursuit, in which case you may not be covered. Others, such as that provided by the BMC, www.thebmc.co.uk/insurance, would class it as an ordinary walk.
Food and drink
All the towns and villages along the GR221 offer the opportunity to buy food and drink. In some places there may only be one or two shops selling food, but there will always be a bar restaurant, and there are often opportunities to sample local fare. There are occasional roadside bar restaurants, but read ahead to be sure where the next shops, bars and restaurants are located. If there is a significant gap in services, be sure to stock up appropriately in advance. Shops generally open from 0900–1300 and 1600–2000. Long lunch hours are common, but some open all day, while some close on Saturday afternoons, and some may not open at all on Sundays.
Mallorquín cuisine, or cuina Mallorquina, can differ from that of Catalonia on the mainland. Fish dishes are a speciality and so are tapas, served with drinks in many bars. They are usually behind glass on the counter, so you can point to the ones you want. Small or large helpings are offered and a large one can make a substantial meal.
Meals in hotels may involve table service or a self-service buffet with an excellent selection. Meals in refugis are usually wholesome, filling, local specialities. See Appendix B for translations of many types of local specialities that may appear on menus.
The dining room at the remote Refugi de Tossals Verds (Stage 8)
Water
Ordinary tap water is fine for drinking, and bottled water is on sale everywhere. Very little running water is available in the limestone mountains. However, the word ‘font’ on maps indicates a spring. Sometimes, these will flow copiously and provide excellent drinking water. Others might be stagnant, and unsuitable for drinking without treating. Others may be dry most of the time, or have been piped away at source. Play safe and carry plenty of water.
Walking the GR221
Walking from south-west to north-east works well with the prevailing weather and there is less likelihood of squinting into the sun. At the time of writing, the early stages of the GR221 were neither signposted nor waymarked, with agreements yet to be concluded with landowners. Most of these routes are already in regular use by walkers and access doesn’t appear to be a problem. The greater part of the route and its alternatives are very well signposted and waymarked, proving very popular with trekkers.
Most of the GR221 has been signposted and waymarked, with amazing precision in some places!
The Consell de Mallorca breaks the route into eight stages, but this guidebook presents the main route in 10 daily stages, with a further three alternative starting points and three alternative finishing points. The main route from Port d’Andratx to Pollença measures about 140km (87 miles), while all the variant routes added together give an additional 90km (56 miles).
Alternative routes
Many maps have been produced showing the course of the GR221 over the years, regardless of whether or not some stretches have been negotiated with landowners, or cleared of undergrowth to allow access. Every so often, one of the suggested alternatives becomes formally adopted, signposted and waymarked. At present, there are enough of these routes to offer three additional starting points, and three additional finishing points. Full details of alternative routes that are already available are given in this guidebook.
Instead of starting at Port d’Andratx and passing through Sant Elm, where the first one-and-a-half days of the route aren’t yet waymarked, your route could be started in the village of s’Arracó, where the route is waymarked all the way to Coll de sa Gramola. Another alternative starting point is the village of es Capdellà, where the route is fully signposted and waymarked all the way through the Galatzó estate to Estellencs. Yet another alternative starting point is the small town of Calvià, where the route is fully signposted as the GR221 as far as Puigpunyent, and at least waymarked to Coll d’Estellencs. The descent to Estellencs, despite being regarded as a Camino Real, or right of way, has not yet been formally adopted, and is admittedly a sorry mess by the time it reaches Estellencs.
Little houses are passed on the way to Coll de sa Gramola (Alternative start A)
Instead of finishing at Pollença, three other finishing points could be considered. One option, while not specifically marked as the GR221, is at least fully signposted all the way from the outskirts of Sóller to Cala Tuent. The problem with this route is getting away at the end, but ultimately it is planned that the route will continue to Lluc. Another option for finishing involves leaving the main route at Tossals Verds, and walking either to Alaró for an easy exit, or over Puig d’Alaró to finish in the village of Orient. Yet another finishing point can be considered by switching from the GR221 to the GR222, from Lluc to Caimari. In due course, the GR222 will be signposted and waymarked across the plains of es Pla to the distant Serra de Llevant.
Extra mountains
Hardy enthusiasts could walk the whole of the GR221 and include several mountain peaks along the way. Many prominent peaks lie close to the route, but climbing some of them involves hands-on scrambling. Peaks worth considering include Mola de s’Esclop, Puig de Galatzó, Mola de Son Ferrandell, Puig des Teix, Puig de l’Ofre, Puig des Tossals Verds, Puig de Massanella and Tomir.
Guided walking holidays
Some activity holiday companies claim to offer guided walks along the GR221. Check their details carefully as most of them do not actually trek along the entire route, but offer only a series of short walks along certain ‘highlight’ sections. However, there are some companies who offer long-distance guided walks through the Serra de Tramuntana that either follow or run roughly parallel to the GR221.
Maps of the GR221
At the time of writing the GR221 is neither signposted nor waymarked in its early stages, but the latter parts are usually very well marked. This guidebook contains extracts from the excellent Editorial Alpina 1:25,000 scale maps of the Serra de Tramuntana. These are far and away the best maps for trekking along the GR221 and all its alternatives. To enjoy full coverage of the mountains and to appreciate where the GR221 is located in a wider context, obtain the Alpina 25 Serra de Tramuntana map pack. This includes four extensive, detailed maps of the mountains, printed back to back so that they are light and compact, on durable waterproof material, packed into a handy card folder, with a five-language key. For details see www.editorialalpina.com.
The Instituto Geográfico Nacional (IGN) publishes maps of Mallorca at scales of 1:50,000 and 1:25,000. These are part of the Mapa Topográfico Nacional (MTN) series. Be sure to check the style and quality of these maps if tempted to make a purchase, as they don’t show the course of the GR221, nor do they show many of the paths and tracks that form the route. For details see www.cnig.es.
Maps can be ordered in advance from British suppliers such as Stanfords (12–14 Long Acre, London WC2E 9BR, tel 020 7836 1321, www.stanfords.co.uk); The Map Shop (15 High Street, Upton-upon-Severn WR8 0HJ, tel 01684 593146, www.themapshop.co.uk); or Cordee (tel 01455 611185, www.cordee.co.uk).
Path conditions
For the most part the GR221 is made up of clear paths and tracks, sometimes cut through solid rock and often built laboriously by hand. Some of the paths were engineered as zigzagging mule tracks from village to village, and these are often quite plain and obvious to follow. Others were made to exploit woodlands for charcoal, so they tend to fan out among dense woodlands, with many spurs reaching dead-ends. On these tracks it is necessary to pay careful attention to maps and route descriptions, confirming your location at every junction before making the next move. Even when the signposting and waymarking is good, remember that markers can go missing.
Conditions underfoot range from bare rock to well-paved stretches. There are also some uncomfortably stony sections, or paths that run through deeply eroded gullies. Leaf-mould can obscure uneven surfaces, so tread carefully. Some mountainsides are covered in huge grassy tussocks of càrritx. Walkers quickly learn to high-step through càrritx, because stepping onto the tough fronds can cause the other foot to be caught as it is swung forward!
The Camí des Correu runs through dense holm oak woodland (Stage 4)
Kit check
Think carefully about the gear you plan to carry and keep your pack light. Ground conditions are often hard and stony, but there are plenty of easier tracks and roads. Wear boots or shoes according to your personal preference over such terrain. Bear in mind that hot feet might be more of a problem than wet feet, so think carefully when choosing footwear and socks.
Clothing should be lightweight and light coloured, offering good protection from the sun, while being able to offer good ventilation for sweat. It could be cold on the high mountains, especially in the winter. Waterproofs and windproofs may only be used rarely, so lightweight items will usually be fine. On sunny days, use sunscreen on exposed skin and wear a good sun hat. Bare limestone is very bright in the full sun, so consider taking sunglasses.
Water must be carried on hot days – a minimum of two litres. Guard against sunburn and heat exhaustion at all times, but be prepared for colder and wetter days too. If trekking along the GR221 and using hotel accommodation, little is needed apart from normal day-walking kit and a change of clothes. If using the refugis, add a wash-kit and towel, and maybe a sleeping bag, although bedding can be hired.
Backpackers should remember that there is only one campsite on the route. Carrying heavy loads in hot weather is exhausting, so if planning to wild-camp in the mountains, ensure that all your kit is lightweight, and that you are self-sufficient in food and water for overnight stops. Weather conditions in summer are seldom severe, but in winter be prepared for cold nights and wetter weather. Always know where the next shops are located on the route, resupplying as necessary and avoiding carrying too much too far.
Emergencies
Until 1995 there was only a voluntary mountain rescue service on Mallorca, but now there are two professional teams: one from the fire service, or Bombers, tel 080 or 112, and the other from the Guardia Civil, tel 062 or 112. There are three police forces: the Policía Local wear blue uniforms and are attached to local municipalities; the Policía Nacional wear brown uniforms; and the Guardia Civil wear green uniforms and are often seen in rural areas. All three police forces may be called upon in an emercency, tel 112.
Mountain rescue is free of charge and unfortunately has been kept very busy. Getting a message out in an emergency is not always easy. Mobile phones may not get a good signal on some parts of the GR221, and time lost trying to get a signal can be crucial.
GR221 signposts are often added to signposts in towns and villages
Carry a first aid kit to deal with the usual cuts, scrapes and blisters. For other health issues, there are pharmacies in the towns and most villages. If any regular medication is needed, include it in your pack. If a doctor or a trip to a hospital is required, there may be costs involved, and an insurance policy with good medical cover is recommended. Best of all, walk safely and avoid suffering any injuries.
Using this guide
This guidebook offers all the information you need to organise a successful trek along the GR221, or any of its alternative routes, whether the route is fully waymarked or not. Information produced by the Consell de Mallorca breaks the route into eight stages, but this guidebook breaks it into 10 daily stages, ensuring that time is available to explore interesting places, such as Valldemossa and Deià. Feel free to adapt and amend the schedule, based on the availability of accommodation and useful bus services.
If walking from refugi to refugi, remember that it is best to book them in advance. The same applies to hotels, although it is often possible to turn up unannounced and secure a bed, if one is available. For food and drink, keep reading ahead through the guidebook to discover where shops, bars and restaurants are located, and be sure to buy provisions to cover for long stages that lack refreshment.
