Читать книгу Mountain Walking in Mallorca - Paddy Dillon - Страница 14

WALK 3

Sant Elm, La Trapa and s’Arracó

Start	Plaça de Mossen Sebastià, Sant Elm
Finish	Roundabout, s’Arracó
Distance	13km (8 miles)
Total ascent	570m (1870ft)
Total descent	500m (1640ft)
Time	5hrs
Terrain	Forested slopes give way to a steep, rocky slope that includes a section of mild scrambling where there may be a rope for protection. Paths climb higher, linking with tracks that allow for an easy descent.
Map	Alpina Serra Tramuntana Sud
Refreshment	Plenty of choice at Sant Elm and s’Arracó
Transport	Buses serve Sant Elm and s’Arracó from Andratx

The walk from Sant Elm to La Trapa starts easily and is popular, but the upper parts are steep and rocky. A small community of Trappist monks settled in that remote place. The site is in ruins but there is a plan to restore part of it as a refugi. Paths can be followed higher to ses Basses, enjoying a wild and remote area, then a descent leads to the pleasant and quiet village of s’Arracó.

Leave the last bus stop in Sant Elm, on Plaça de Mossen Sebastià Grau. Head inland from es Molí restaurant, where there is an old windmill, following Avinguda de La Trapa uphill. The road runs into forest and gives way to a dirt road called Camí Can Tomeví. Keep straight ahead at a junction in the forest, eventually passing near the solitary house of Can Tomeví.

Watch for a marker post for La Trapa and walk straight ahead on a bare, rocky path criss-crossed with tree roots. Simply follow a well-trodden path up the forested slope, passing a pair of old gate pillars and crossing other tracks. Little cairns and occasional paint marks show the way, while other paths may be blocked by branches or lines of stones. Climb past old terraces then drift left along the foot of rugged cliffs as the pines become sparse.

An easy stone-buttressed terrace path overlooks a secluded boulder-beach at Cala en Basset, with sa Dragonera in view beyond. The scrub includes rock roses, spiky broom and càrritx. The terrace gives way to a steep and rocky slope where hands must be used for mild scrambling, and one part might have a rope for protection.

Cross a rocky shoulder at 300m (985ft), pass a noticeboard and look down on old buildings and former cultivation terraces at La Trapa. Follow a path in that direction and cross a ladder stile to reach an access track.

LA TRAPA

The ruined buildings of La Trapa and the island of sa Dragonera

A community of Trappist monks, first expelled from Normandy in France in 1789, then expelled from Zaragoza in Spain in 1808, settled in this remote valley in 1810. One monk was elected to trade with the outside world and was obliged to live separately. The site was abandoned in 1820, sold in 1853 and fell into ruins after serving as a farm. It was purchased in 1980, along with the surrounding land, by a birdwatching and environmental organisation, Grup Ornitològic Balear. Disaster struck in 1994, and again in 2013, when fires destroyed the forested upland. Trees have been replanted, but will take decades to mature. Old drystone terraces and the irrigation system have been restored. Plans to provide refugi accommodation have stalled.

To explore the site, simply walk down the track, passing the former monastery to reach a nearby mill. Walk down to a bare circular area that was an era, or threshing floor, but now bears tall pines. A little further downhill is a mirador with a fine view of sa Dragonera, explored on Walk 1. Double back uphill to continue the walk.

Follow the zigzag access track uphill from La Trapa. A signpost and a marker post indicate that this is the way to ses Basses, but be sure to leave the track on a bend to follow a narrow path onwards. It is possible to follow the track over a gap and short-cut back down to Sant Elm. Pass occasional burnt and toppled pines among the dense scrub, then pass a noticeboard. Follow the path as it climbs gradually past old terraces in Vall de Sant Josep, becoming steeper and more rugged.

There is no sign of habitation in any direction as the path reaches 450m (1475ft) on the open slopes of Puig de ses Basses. When a large cairn is reached, turn left to follow a short path to the Mirador d’en Josep Sastre, for a fine view of sa Dragonera, then return to the cairn to continue.

The path crosses rugged terrain dotted with asphodels and rosemary. There are superb views north-east along the coast, taking in the nearby peak of Mola de s’Esclop and distant Puig Major. Head gradually down from one burnt pine tree to another. In 2013 a fire burnt many trees between here and Estellencs. When more pines are reached on a crest, turn left along a path that might be obscured by a fallen tree. Another short path on the left could be followed for a view, otherwise keep right, traversing a slope thick with càrritx. Enjoy coastal views and eventually reach a track beside a solitary little house at ses Basses.

Turn left to follow a winding track downhill, reaching a signpost and mapboard at a junction around 340m (1115ft). Turn sharp right to commence the descent to s’Arracó. Following the track onwards leads to Coll de sa Gramola, where a pick-up could be organised. Descend past a few pine trees, and follow the winding track down into a valley. Keep left at a junction, but notice a limekiln among pines to the right. The track passes above a concrete dam and continues climbing across a slope. It has a buttressed edge, winds uphill and reaches a rocky, scrubby crest around 325m (1065ft).

Descend on broken bedrock, passing the solitary ruin of Caseta de l’Amo en Pep. Rocky, scrubby slopes are crossed on the way down past Coll des Cucons. Later, there might be fallen trees to negotiate on the way into a forest. The track rises and descends gently around the slopes of Puig d’en Guida, catching glimpses of little houses, or casetes, on old cultivation terraces. Cross a gentle, forested gap beside Puig d’en Corso, at almost 220m (720ft). Descend, and keep turning right at a triangular junction, descending to the right of a house called Can Corso. The track is very bendy and gives way to a tarmac road.

Puig des Campàs is seen on the descent to s’Arracó

Simply walk straight ahead, taking note of marker posts at junctions, with occasional views towards s’Arracó. Turn right at a signposted junction at Barri sa Clota. Farms give way to houses as Calle del Porvenir enters s’Arracó. Turn right to follow the road straight through the village, passing tall buildings and the church of Sant Crist. There are cafés and bar-restaurants. Carrer de França leads to a roundabout outside the village, where there are bus stops.