Читать книгу The Cynic - PAO - Страница 7

January 24^th, 2010

They decided to walk to the south of the island to have a look around. Kylie reminded Dink that Ajay had recommended going to Shipwreck Beach. Finishing a leisurely morning meal, they would set off later. With the red coconut tree in the yard producing abundant offerings, Dink had taken to the habit of drinking coconut water each morning. Combined with vegemite toast he reckoned it was the breakfast of champions. It helped that he was required to use a machete to open the coconut himself, adroitly chopping the cap off the husk with several precise lusty blows. What could possibly go wrong, he thought.

Kylie sung out to him, “I’ll grab a sarong we can use as a towel, the sunscreen, and some nibbles. Can you sort out the water?”

Dink filled up his backpack with several bottles of water so they could spend as long as they wanted out and about. The hot, humid weather and sparse water sources made carrying ample fluids essential. And, after only a few days on La Bajan, they hadn’t yet acclimatised to the challenging conditions. “It gets dark by six, so we’ll make sure we’re back before then.” They had been invited to Ajay’s parents’ place for dinner tonight.

“The sunsets are too good to miss.” Kylie passed him the rolled-up sarong to put into the backpack.

“And the sundowners too!” Dink mocked raising his glass as for the cocktail hour.

Dink and Kylie were seasoned campaigners who walked several hours each day wherever they were in the world, so this planning was routine. They busied themselves to their own tasks and were soon ready to go. Not being early risers, it was now late morning. The sun was heating the island towards an early afternoon crescendo.

“I’m looking forward to seeing the beaches,” Kylie chirped as they set off.

“Me too. Everything seems to be a bit of an adventure in this joint.”

Predictably, Kylie started at a good pace. Dink had named her the ‘fastest walking human’. She would often have to slow down so he could keep up. That was no disgrace. Back in Sydney, others knew her rapid pace and daily route and had dubbed her ‘Forrest Gump’. And, many years ago, at the start of a Breast Cancer charity walk, Kylie had inadvertently matched motors for a kilometre or so with Kerry Saxby-Junna, a Commonwealth Games Gold Medallist in race walking. Only when Kylie relented to fall back and chat with Dink and her friends did she discover this. Surprised, she commented honestly, “I did tell her that she was a pretty good walker!”

They headed inland and, despite the trees that overhung the road, were aware of the twin mountain peaks that dominated the island to the east and south. Dink had studied the basic tourist map and appreciated that they had to pass between these mountains to reach Shipwreck Beach. Birds sang sporadically as they proceeded, and the occasional bat screeched high overhead in the tall fig trees. These impressive trees branched to form the highest canopy in the forest, and the native bats loved the sweet pulpy fruit.

“Look at that long-tailed bird!” Dink pointed excitedly above the road ahead as a stark white bird with a long thin tail streaked across the blue sky. “I’ve never seen anything like that before.”

“Why would you,” Kylie mocked and, giving her best David Attenborough impersonation, said, “The rare La Bajan paradise bird was once thought extinct. However, through patient research, we now know they thrive in the dense wooded forests of the mountain slopes.”

Dink laughed sarcastically as Kylie marched onwards but, as ever, he was impressed by her sharp wit.

As they neared a T-junction, Dink instructed, “We turn right up here and head south.”

Kylie swung right and he followed a few paces behind. Accelerating to catch up to her, they marched with equal strides. Mont Centrale loomed to their left and they could see a cluster of small houses cut into the forested lower slopes of the mountain. Ahead of them was the rocky volcanic peak of Mont Sur, which was even more impressive. “Yeah, baby,” Dink cried out, known for his personal appreciation of a good mountain.

“Shame about the tower. Kind of spoils the natural effect,” Kylie responded, noting the red and white communications tower rising from the summit like a rocket thrusting into space.

“Still, that is something. I wonder if you can hike to the top.”

“Climb, maybe. It looks pretty steep. Anyway, good luck with that.”

“We’ll see,” Dink said, mainly to have the last word on a topic he knew more about than his wife. His subconscious mind was already working to develop that plan to fruition.

The peak of Mont Sur was higher in altitude than Mont Centrale by about fifty metres, but it looked much more grand with its pointed peak contrasting to the rounded dome of the lower mountain. Dink was reminded of Australia’s highest mountain, Mount Kosciuszko, which was originally marked as Mount Townsend on some Victorian state maps. After it was repeatedly observed that the unimpressive flat-domed summit was, in fact, higher than the jagged peak of the neighbouring mountain, the error was corrected by transposing the names of the mountains. Whether this was due to the classic picture-book image of a peaked mountain summit complicating reality, the result of parallax error, or just a basic surveying inaccuracy was lost to time. But Dink loved that story.

Rookie error, he thought to himself. Always suspect a fuck-up before a conspiracy.

Progressing, they passed another few basic dwellings, and then a larger road entered at a right angle and appeared to head straight back to the western coast.

“This is so lovely and quaint,” Kylie remarked happily. “What a great walking route.”

“Superb, isn’t it. Not many people around either.”

“None, so far.”

It dawned on them that they had been walking for ten minutes and had not seen a soul. Maybe the locals avoided the heat of the day.

“Do they have an afternoon siesta here?” Kylie continued to scan around for signs of life.

“Not sure. Probably.”

The road began to climb steadily uphill. The pass between the two flanking mountains became obvious as they walked beneath the shadowing peaks. It was a gradual incline, but the heat and humidity meant they were sweating vigorously with the effort. At the pass, a small grey concrete substation was evident, likely connecting communications to the mountain tower. Beyond this the road sloped gently downhill, and up ahead they sighted two young women stopped on their bicycles by the side of the road. They looked like tourists. Europeans. Blonde, thin, and pale. A shirtless young local man was talking to them. He moved back a step and then launched into a precise standing backflip. The speed, grace, and athleticism were breathtaking. And the landing perfect. A beam of sunlight cut through a gap in the trees and shone brightly onto his dark mocha skin. It was his moment in the sun.

The female tourists shrieked with excitement and appreciation, with an accented request to, “Do it again!” He casually obliged. This sent the girls into hysterics and they both gravitated towards him like a magnetic attraction. He had them hooked. They were now frantically chatting with him. All that was clear above the general babble was, “That was amazing!”

Dink and Kylie approached the group. Kylie could see that the young man was exceptionally handsome, with dark, kind eyes and a radiant smile. His hair was in small tight curls, short and stylish. A round diamante earring sparkled in his left lobe. He was medium height and build but with the svelte body of an athlete. The young women were thin and pretty, sporting diminutive bikini tops with skimpy jean shorts, and they were fawning over him. And why wouldn’t you? Kylie mused. As she approached the group, she caught his eye announcing, “That was impressive.”

They all turned towards Dink and Kylie, but the young man addressed her directly, “Hi. Yes. It’s easy when you know how.” His voice was melodic. Soft, but clear.

“I’ll bet it is.”

This short interaction had broken his spell on the European girls, and they looked uneasy. Moving to get back onto their bikes, one pretty blonde girl flirted on departure, “We’ll see you later, Marlon.”

“Yes. I’ll come to the beach after.” He smiled and produced a short wave to them, like an aloof monarch. He maintained an air of mild disinterest.

“Please, we didn’t want to interrupt. We’re just walking down to Shipwreck Beach. Is it far?”

“No, it’s OK. The girls want to go now to get a suntan,” he explained. “The beach, it’s a few minutes down the road.”

“Thanks. I’m Kylie by the way.” She shook his hand.

“I’m Marlon.”

Dink also introduced himself and, noting the small yellow house set back from the road, said, “Great place to live.”

“Yes. It’s fine.”

“And it’s on the tourist route.” Kylie nodded her head in the direction the girls had gone.

He cocked his head slightly and with a cheeky grin agreed, “That is a bonus. When you live here the girls like to pass by and chat.”

Marlon and Kylie had an instant rapport. She retorted quickly, “I’m sure they like to do more than that.”

“Madam.” He acted mildly offended. Raising an eyebrow and gesturing towards the nearby peaks and the beach road sloping through the palms, he glanced Kylie quickly up and down and announced emphatically, “I am a gentleman, but sometimes it’s nice to spend a little time in the mountains before going south to the forest.”

“Oh, clever!” Her cheeks coloured a rosy pink. “And so smooth.”

Dink joined in, “Classic! Your own personal one-liner. I love it.”

Marlon remained cool but grinned, satisfied by their appreciation. A rocky forest surrounded the road and they all paused to take in the scene. Massive rounded boulders dotted the yard around the house. Behind it the mountain began to slope upwards into a mess of thick palms and tangled vines hanging from colossal trees. A few scrawny chickens scratched about in the yard.

Dink quizzed, “Can you hike to the top of Mont Sur?

Tck, Marlon clicked his tongue suggesting no. “It is possible. But not easy. You need a guide.”

“And where might I find a guide?”

Pointing at his own breastbone, Marlon answered that question.

Kylie re-joined the conversation, “Ah, a man of many skills.”

Dink looked up towards the peak with eager anticipation. “I might take you up on that sometime.”

Marlon was non-committal. He told them he’d lived in this house all his life. “My brothers and I used to explore the mountain all the time. Now, not so much.”

“And where are your brothers now?” Her eyes betrayed her interest.

“Some moved to La Premiere for work, others live with their friends by the beach. I live here alone now.”

“Your parents?”

“They passed away about ten years ago. My brothers raised me and taught me how to survive. You know, to guide and fish, and to cook and clean. I don’t need much.” The delivery was matter of fact. There was no search for sympathy or pity.

Kylie softened her tone. She was so ridiculously kind-hearted that she often physically experienced people’s pain. Her heart melted at hearing this story of sorrow and loneliness in one so young. Marlon was trying to cover his emotion, but his misty eyes gave him away.

“I’m so sorry to hear that. You must miss them.”

Marlon’s gentle voice answered her simply, “Yes. I do.”

She tried to lift his mood. “Why don’t you come down to the beach with us. We can catch up with those pretty girls.”

“OK. That sounds good. I’ll just get my shirt.”

Dink studied the topography, assessing potential routes to climb the mountain. He patted his paunch before indicating Marlon’s six-pack. “If I had a body like that, I’d never wear a shirt.”

Marlon slow-jogged the dirt path to his house and came back carrying his shirt. He didn’t put it on. He slung it over his left shoulder. They all walked down the road together, Kylie and Marlon deep in conversation. Dink ambled behind, enjoying and surveying the dense pristine forest that stretched either side of the road.

Never shy, Kylie asked Marlon directly, “And what about the local girls? No one special?”

He hesitated briefly, Tck, he clicked his tongue again, “Too much trouble.”

“I saw an attractive girl the other day with lovely green eyes. I think her name was Camille. She’s Ajay’s friend.”

“Ah. You’ve already met Ajay.” Then added, with a hint of sarcasm, “Of course. Everyone knows Ajay!”

“He’s been so nice to us.” She outlined his generosity with the phone, motioning towards Dink who was now trailing behind taking a multitude of photos.

“Yes. He is nice. And kind. We’ve known each other all our lives.” Recounting growing up, Marlon told her that he is a year younger than Ajay. Selwyn, one of Marlon’s brothers, was in Ajay’s class at school. “I got along with Ajay better than Selwyn did.” A slight shoulder shrug seemingly indicated that Marlon was unsure as to the reason for this.

“And Camille?” Kylie re-focused the discussion. She was like a dog with a bone once she had settled an idea in her head.

Camille was clearly an uncomfortable topic for Marlon and his gaze flicked from one side of the road to the other. He paused, his answer considered but with scant emotion, “We all used to hang out together growing up. Ajay, Camille, and I, we were best friends. We spent all our time together, exploring the island. Ajay’s brother Jonah was also part of the group,” his voice trailed off. “I still see Ajay. But not so often. He is a busy man.”

“I guess you all grew up and went your own ways.” Kylie let him off the hook.

“Something like that. Yes.”

Abruptly, Marlon stepped off the path and picked up what looked like a large black coil from the leaf litter on the forest floor. Dink and Kylie were curious and gathered around. Marlon held the object closer so they could better examine it. A sausage-like body was encased with tight black skin, and multiple tiny feet wriggled rhythmically in an effort to escape.

“The largest millipede in the world. Found only in the Sedois Islands.” Proudly, he displayed the animal. It was curved, dark, and eight inches long. “Would you like to touch it,” he offered to Kylie.

“Impressive specimen, but no thanks.” She winked at Dink. “Maybe on the second date.”

With care, Marlon put it back in the leaves and they descended the final slope towards Shipwreck Beach. At the end of this forested road ‘The Shack’ restaurant became visible in a sandy clearing adjacent the beach. A painted wooden sign announced it, the colours faded, encapsulating the vibe of the place. It was low set but quite a long, large building, and Bob Marley’s Exodus emanated from within.

“Kylie, Marlon, do you want a drink?” Dink suggested.

“I’ll have a soda water, if they have it,” Kylie responded, although Dink had already guessed her choice.

Marlon hesitated, appearing embarrassed. Kylie gently brushed his shoulder, inviting him, “Please, have a drink with us.”

“OK. Cola, please.”

Dink was already disappearing inside and, confirming he had it all sorted, said to no one in particular, “Sweet as a nut.”

Marlon pointed to the path that ran alongside the restaurant to the beach and he and Kylie crested the small fringing sand dune.

“That is incredible!” Kylie exclaimed, dazzled by the beach vista. “That’s the most beautiful beach I’ve ever seen.” Her eyes widened trying to take it all in and she scanned the ocean.

The beach was petite but perfectly proportioned. As a description, ‘aesthetically pleasing’ didn’t do it justice. The white sand sparkled as if infused with tiny diamonds. Shallow but impossibly clear turquoise water melted into a small reef break crumbling gently into the lagoon. The water clarity was such that small black and white striped fish could be seen swimming near the shore. On the reef, the rusted wreckage of a vessel was prominent as a tilted metal mass, intermittently surged by waves. Embellished by palm clusters, the northern and southern pink granite headlands enclosed the beach like matching bookends. The giant granite rocks had been carved by eons of wind and water into irregular shapes resembling jigsaw puzzles. The scene was engrossing. With so much visual stimulation it was like watching a movie.

Marlon understood. “Uh, huh. This is a special place.” That look of wonder was common for first-time visitors and he smiled contentedly. “My backyard.”

Kylie glanced at him and, at that moment, she was so overwhelmingly happy she had to fight the desire to smother him with a motherly hug.

Emerging from under the cool, shaded canopy at the front of the restaurant, Dink disrupted the moment as he returned with the drinks.

“Talk about bloody feng-shui!” he exclaimed loudly. “This beach is superb.”

He handed Kylie and Marlon their drinks and they nodded their thanks, and agreement. Dink could not disguise his awe at this sublime beauty and stood, mouth slightly agape, watching the waves roll into the lagoon. There were a handful of tourists, including the European girls they had seen earlier with Marlon, lying silently on beach towels enjoying the sun. It was a lazy but sensual scene. No one spoke and, in fact, many seemed to be dozing, drunk with bliss.

Dink raised his beer. “Ah, well, a man is not a camel.” And slugged thirstily from the bottle. “Aaah, that’s the ticket!”

Kylie’s gaze turned skywards, and she tracked several large, dark birds effortlessly circling the northern headland. “Those birds are so graceful. What are they?”

“The frigate birds are common here. Good fishing.” Marlon flicked at a fly that had settled on his face.

“What’s over the headland?” she asked, noting the rumbling sound and the fine misty spray above the headland rocks.

Marlon’s brow furrowed and his voice was a mixture of admiration and dread, “That is the wild side of the island. Côte Sauvage. A very difficult area.”

This piqued Dink’s interest and adventurous spirit. “The savage coast. That’s pretty mysterious. Can you hike along there?”

“No. It is not wise. The only way past the sea-cliffs is to walk in the water.” Marlon’s evocative description of the jagged reefs, large waves and treacherous currents was intended to be a truthful but serious warning. There was no safe way back onto land until you reached the north point of the island, into the boat harbour beyond the break wall. “The water becomes very deep and there is a powerful current. You have to swim this part except with a very low tide.”

“Have you done it?” Dink asked, still assessing the feasibility of the route. He recognised the description of the break wall and anchorage where he had first met Ajay.

“When I was younger. With my brothers. We would sometimes wade and dive, spearfishing for octopus on the reef.” Maybe he sensed Dink considering the idea, and added, “But only when the swell and wind were low.”

“OK, so another day,” Dink said cheekily but with some intent.

“You’re incorrigible, Dink!” Kylie smacked his arm. “Do you have a death wish?”

“Go hard or go home.” He smirked, rubbing his shoulder.

“Sure, but within reason. Your recent choices haven’t been so great.”