Читать книгу The Drover's Daughter - Patsy Kemp - Страница 7

NARRABRI 1955

Traditional land of the Kamilaroi people

My earliest memory is one of terror. The flood. I was about four years old and it had been raining for days. Everyone was talking about an impending flood. We had been camping on the reserve beside the Namoi River but with the constant rain we were now short of food. The roads were mud and none of the vehicles could get into town. We were well and truly stuck. Dad decided that if the rain stopped he would catch the horse and ride into Narrabri to get some basic food supplies because if the river broke its banks we would be stranded for days.

Rain pelted down. There were nine adults and six kids and we huddled together trying to keep dry underneath a small lean-to Dad had built onto Mrs McCaw’s humpy-like kitchen. Mrs McCaw, a friend of ours who also camped on the reserve, made us all a hot drink as the adults discussed our dilemma and the best way to tackle our predicament.

I was sitting on my eight year old sister’s knee. Emily (Emmie) cuddled me as I sucked my thumb, mesmerised by the smoke from the adults’ cigarettes lazily wafting out into the open to join with the rain. With the constant drone of their voices going up and down in heated discussion as to who had the best plan, I eventually drifted off to sleep. When I woke, it was early the next day and I was in the back of the truck along with my parents and siblings who had all slept there to keep safe. While they were still sleeping, brown muddy water rushed below. I could see it was halfway up the wheels of the truck and decided it would be fun to climb down and have a play while the others slept. I was having a lovely paddle in the flood waters until my mother woke up, horrified. She ordered my eldest brother Col, who was nine, to grab me before I was washed away with the debris in the swirling torrents. I couldn’t understand why I got such a hiding when I was only trying to make mud pies for breakfast!

Thankfully, the attention was quickly diverted away from me and my wet muddy clothes as news arrived that the floodwaters had broken the bank of the river not far from where we were. Mum woke Dad. ‘We have to move to higher ground,’ she said in a panic.

Dad looked down at the depth of the water encircling the truck. ‘Don’t be so stupid,’ he yelled. ‘We’re already on the only bit of high ground there is.’

We had parked on a sandy ridge that was used for a rubbish tip where the local night cart and odd job man, Teddy Small, had built a shed. Suddenly, a great wall of water appeared from seemingly nowhere and there was a desperate flight towards the shed. I was terrified. The biggest and eldest all had to lock arms and struggle against being swept away in the powerful current. I was perched on top of Col’s shoulders and Dad carried Mike, aged three. My brother Les, aged five, and sister Mary, six, were being piggy backed by Alec and John McCaw. Emmie was struggling with the adults and at one point she lost her footing, slipped into the muddy water and began to float away. Dad quickly grabbed a handful of hair and tugged her to him. Mum shoved the blankets she was carrying under one arm and put her other hand around her eldest daughter’s shoulders to help her along in the slippery, swift flowing water.

Sounds vibrated in my head: men yelling and swearing, the women and us kids screaming and crying, the rushing of the water, the absolute terror of it all. Teddy Small jumped onto the shed’s roof and Col handed me up to him. He placed me a few feet away and then helped to drag the others, one by one, over the jagged, rusty guttering that was almost falling from the excess weight of rotted foliage and the heavy downpour now being thrust upon it.

I thought we were going to die. I sobbed uncontrollably as I watched drowned sheep, dogs, chooks and various other once-living creatures float past, tangled in the debris of the raging flood waters.

Beside the eight in our family there was Mrs McCaw and her five adult children, John, Alec, Colleen, Lucy, Mary; her siblings, Norman and Amelia; along with Teddy Small. Although we were grateful to be safely up above the water line, as the day went on, the rain stopped and the sun came out. The tin roof became unbearably hot and began to burn us. We were all hungry and thirsty as well. Dad told Col and Alec McCaw to go back to the truck and gather some food for us. They managed to fight their way there and collected as much food and water as they could carry. It only lasted one day and night as there were so many to share it with. Who would have thought a tin of green peas would be so satisfying?

For our safety at night, the adults put all the kids in the middle and they slept on the outside, even so Mike managed to wriggle close to the edge and if Alec McCaw had not seen him in time and grabbed him, he would’ve toppled over into the raging floodwaters.

John McCaw had two bottles of rum with him and he was in a drunken state the entire time, much to the adult’s disgust. In the middle of the night, John rolled right off the roof and into the rapidly flowing water. He grabbed onto a log to keep himself afloat and began shouting. Dad heard him and immediately knew what had happened. He jumped in the water and grabbed him and, with the help of John’s brother and Teddy Small, they managed to get him back onto the roof. It had been touch and go, as Dad was the only swimmer among them and it could have ended tragically for everyone, leaving Mum a 23 year old widow with six kids. Of course, the experience gave John a good fright and he sobered up pretty quickly. Dad angrily grabbed his bottle of rum and hurled it as far away as he could into the water.

The shed shook with the power of the water rushing by. The strength of the howling winds helped to make the shed feel more unstable and we were all afraid that it would collapse. My parents also feared losing the truck, which housed every possession we owned.

After a long eventful night, everyone breathed a sigh of relief upon seeing the police water boat approaching. They couldn’t take us with them but at least they were able to organise some food for us later in the day. We were stranded on that roof for two days and nights before the water finally receded. Then the mammoth task of cleaning up began. The water had covered two feet over the back of the truck but fortunately, my parents had stored most things up as high as they could, so we didn’t lose much at all.

The McCaws weren’t so lucky and lost most of their possessions. Fed up with the camping-style living arrangements they had endured over the years, the girls decided to move into town but Mrs McCaw, her sister Amelia, and the men stayed where they were and started over again. It is a big move for bushies to settle down to living in a town, surrounded by people and houses. They become comfortable with their bushie lifestyle, free from noisy, nosy neighbours. They love to sit in the shade of a tree and smoke and yarn away the day when they are not working.

Most of Mrs McCaw’s chooks and ducks survived the flood but sadly, three of their dogs drowned. Eventually, the McCaws set out their camping area like a village with tents and caravans in a circle around their underground bore that had a hand pump. Any leftover water made a nice handmade duck pond in the centre of their camp. This pond was very shallow and about 10 feet across. Ducks and various fowl life loved the smelly water and the dogs enjoyed a swim in it on a hot day.

One day Dad was teasing Mum and she retaliated by hitting him and then racing off out of the camp area. She ran around the tents and caravans, ducking and dodging the barking dogs that were straining to the end of their chains, wanting to have a run around too. Dad raced after her and caught her up into his arms. He carried her yelling and screaming back into the camp and held her over the pond. He pretended to draw her back to himself and then suddenly, tossed her fully clothed into the smelly pond. Ducks and chooks ran everywhere, feathers flying, dogs barked madly, and the adults watching this side show were all killing themselves laughing. We kids thought it a great joke. Mum squatted in the pond for a few seconds, a bit shocked. When she crawled out, dripping wet with mud, muck and green slime, she cursed Dad, which everyone thought was funnier still.

Stirring the pond up made the stink more prominent in the immediate area and Mum stank for days afterward. The rank smell was very hard to get rid of. Eventually, she started to smell like our Mum again – cigarette smoke! For years afterwards, it became a joke to make a wide circle as you walked past Mum to remind everyone of “the day Mick threw Beryl into the duck pond”. Dad often threatened to throw her in the pond again but never did. I think he may have paid a high price for that bit of high jinks.

A few days after this incident, Mike was toddling along trying to catch a puppy. It swung away from the edge of the duck pond and Mike could not stop soon enough and fell in face first. John McCaw saw it happen and promptly pulled him out. Mike did not seem to smell as much as Mum had but being small, maybe it was because he didn’t stir the sludge and muck up from the bottom of the pond.

The Namoi River ran past Wee Waa and we quite often camped on the banks when waiting for a job to come along or just resting the stock and the stockmen. There were plenty of ghost gum trees for shade and of course water and grass for the horses. It was lovely to lie in bed and just on dawn be woken by the cacophony of the kookaburras doing their early morning call. The galahs would start squawking and the crows arrrk arrrking. If we slept in too long, Dad would say they were laughing at us for being silly enough to stay in bed. On rare occasions we saw small flocks of black cockatoos and they squawked as they flew overhead rather than when they were resting in trees. The white cockatoos were more prevalent and a more common sight to us.

This area was abundant not only with bird life but with goannas and lizards. One of our games was to try and catch a goanna, so as soon as we saw one, we would give a shout and then the chase was on. Of course, we never had a chance of catching them. Goannas’ bodies are quite close to the ground but when they are frightened or being chased they stand high on their legs and run very fast up the first tree they come across.

Dad enthralled us with a story of a man who was out fencing and he disturbed a goanna. His dogs gave chase and the goanna ran up the horse’s leg, mistaking it for a tree. The horse was in the shafts of a cart that still had several fence posts resting in it. The horse got such a shock, he bucked and galloped off, the cart jumping all over the place, fence posts bouncing out of the cart and with the goanna standing full height on the horse’s mane, as if he was steering the horse. The dogs gave chase and the horse eventually arrived back at his owner’s house a few days later. The cart was missing but he still had the harness on with some bits missing and a few scrapes and scratches on him.

Dad was hired by Dick Holsbourne, a station owner in Wee Waa, to muster stock, do some fencing, horse breaking or whatever needed doing. Dick had lost an arm in the war but he generally managed quite well. After they mustered the stock, the sheep were shorn and Dad got the job of taking a large mob of sheep out on the “long paddock”. The trip lasted quite a few months and we worked for Dick on and off for a few years after that. Dad became Dick’s drover of choice, which was a compliment to Dad.

Often when we were droving along steady with the sheep, Dick would turn up with some newspapers, bread, our mail, fruit and lollies for us kids. He would always spend a bit of time at the camp talking to Mum and with a cheery, ‘Hooray,’ he would get back into his car and continue on to the men travelling with the stock. He was a wonderful gentleman and we loved to see him, not only for the lollies!

When the stock came into the camp at the end of the day they had to be settled into a sheep break for the night. A sheep break is constructed by rolling out “ring lock” wire into a half moon shape onto a permanent fence line. Posts are then put into that shape and the wire tightens out as you slowly and evenly use more star pickets to hold this temporary fence in place. You leave about 20 feet or more open at one end where the sheep can come in and then that end is closed up for the sheep to bed down for the night. If you were lucky and had a corner to attach the sheep break to, the job was halved.

Mum and us kids were quite often used as spare dogs to help guide the sheep into the break if the sheep were a bit skittish or if they spread out too far. They had a habit of going around the sheep break rather than in it and there was always a rogue sheep who tried to rush past and would jump over us. I was often knocked over by a galloping sheep but rarely got seriously hurt. It was no use crying to Mum, as she would comfort me with, ‘Go on, have a good cry. The more you cry the less you pee.’

My older sister Emmie was far more motherly or at least showed more sympathy than Mum offered. Sometimes I’d cry behind a tree with self-pity, thinking I was so hard done by.

One day a storm was brewing so it was all hands on deck to get the sheep into the break for the night before the storms hit. Mum and us kids were helping when a sheep broke away from the mob and made a dash for freedom. Dad yelled at Mum to go after it. About an hour later Mum staggered back into the camp, red faced, sweating, panting and obviously furious, with no sheep in sight. Dad made the mistake of asking where the sheep was.

‘I caught the f…ing mongrel and hit it on the head. Next time you run after the f…ing thing yourself,’ she yelled. Mum had chased the sheep for ages and it eventually tangled itself in the fence wire in a panic to get away. Exhausted and seething with anger, Mum then had a long, weary trip back to the camp. By the time she arrived, the rest of the sheep had been penned but the men had not lit a fire or done anything towards starting dinner and this made Mum even angrier. There were six kids and three men still to cook for as well as finishing setting up the camp.

The movie The Ten Commandants came to Narrabri and Mum decided she would take us all to see it to, ‘Get some religion into us.’ Before the movie, we were all lingering outside, possibly for the parents to have a cigarette. Smoking was allowed in cinemas in those days. I thought I was standing by Dad’s legs and felt quite safe looking around at the night lights and things going on in the street. He walked off and I followed before realising none of my siblings were with us. I looked up – this was not my Dad! Horrors, I had been kidnapped! I got such a shock seeing this strange man who was unaware of me trotting beside him. I looked back and saw my family half a block away. Luckily, I had not even been missed, as it would have meant a good hard smack on the bottom for wandering off. The Ten Commandants was a long, exciting movie and was so good I did not fall asleep at all.

Around the same time, The Big Chief, Little Wolf Circus and Buck Jump Riding Show was in town. Dad was half-tanked and he walked up to the Indian sitting in front of the big tent, wearing his feathers and other Indian clothing.

‘You’re not Big Chief Little Wolf,’ Dad said.

The Indian replied, ‘If I’m not Big Chief Little Wolf, I’m having a hell of a good time with his old woman!’

Dad fancied himself as a bit of a rodeo rider and for some reason chose to ride a donkey. His mates hoisted him up onto it and the donkey ambled off slowly. In Dad’s drunken stupor, he fell off landing face first in the hay that was on the floor. One of his mates bent over with laughter pulled him upright again. All the people in there were laughing and Dad proudly straightened up, grabbed his hat off his mate and waved it around to the crowd. He staggered outside with a silly grin on his face ready to face the full wrath of Mum. On the way home, Dad was driving all over the road.

‘Keep on the bloody right side,’ Mum said.

‘Whash shide of the road?’ Dad slurred.

‘Well keep to the bloody centre then,’ she snarled.

‘Where ish the schentre of the road den?’ he replied. It was even scarier when he got to the bridge. From the back of the truck where we were, we could see down into the river bed, water glistening in the moonlight. I was petrified. From the front of the truck we could hear Dad singing a ditty and Mum going ballistic at him. Nothing worse than a drunk when you are sober I guess. We arrived home safely and were delighted when Dad tried to climb into the back of the truck and fell over backwards. He was laughing so much he could not get up so Mum threw a blanket over him and left him there for the rest of the night! She was fed up and gruffly told us to get to bed.