Читать книгу The First Boomerang - Paul Bryden - Страница 10

Rob was flying from Sydney to Uluru and drifting off amidst the constant engine noise of a Qantas Boeing 737-400 cruising at 38,000 feet. After more than half the trip, endless expanses of red-brown landscape veined by network after network of dry, black watercourses dominated the view far below. Rob tried to focus on the horizon in the hazy blue distance, but his eyes closed and he slipped into another time and place.

Overnight dew had dampened the red soil that lay on the unmarked track to the sacred cave, until the first bare foot of the first man pushed gently into it. The earth was fresh and alive. He was leading a group of five fully initiated elders who had left camp early to go and prepare the sacred objects that were hidden and stored safely in a distant corner of their country. There was no well-worn track to follow because the cave was only visited about three times each year, yet these men walked as if signposts guided them. Knowing the correct direction is what western man might call “second nature”. Yet in the Aboriginal men’s reality it was “first nature”, because they and the trees, the rocks and the tracks, seen and unseen, were all One. They also lived in the Now, or Present, a challenging concept for most modern urbanised people.

The custodians’ walk to the cave coincided with the coming Full Moon, a common indicator for certain ceremonies including some initiations. They had names for a dull moon, a bright moon, a crescent moon, and the Full Moon was called ‘Taye impanke’ by the Western Aranda people. The moon and the planets, in fact the entire Cosmos had always offered them rich worlds of story and creation.

The traditional countries of the Aranda clans were defined in the most ancient days, in the Dreamtime or Beginning when Ancestral Beings created whole worlds of nature, people, and the laws by which they lived. From an enormous black sky bursting with galaxies and legends, including the starry campfires of departed brothers and sisters, traditional men, women and children were given meaning for daily life. They upheld their Ancestral laws, passing them on to each successive generation by spoken word and rhythmical dance.

The senior men were getting closer to the secret location. Even though it was early morning the heat was rising fast, and the temperature was already well above half of the maximum it would climb to later. They kept to the shade of the trees where possible and moved quietly and purposefully. Nearing the cave the five men stopped without any signal from the leader. He then held up both hands with palms upturned and spoke aloud, alerting the Ancestor Spirits that they were approaching...

Rob opened his eyes as if he had just woken from a dreamy sleep. The landscape below looked the same and there was no change either in the constant engine sound. The dream-like vision had seemed so real, and his mouth was dry as if he had been walking to the cave. He pressed the flight attendant button, and soon after a neatly uniformed and smiling lady delivered a small plastic glass of water and ice. As he sipped the cold drink he tried to gather his thoughts and emotions about the vision and what may lie ahead.

Nearly ten years had passed since he visited ‘the Red Centre’ as Australians often call it. Rob always wanted to return and this trip was a rare opportunity to explore Aboriginal Rock Art under the biggest star-filled skies. He also hoped to talk to local Aborigines and hear their stories of the constellations. In Rob’s research he had discovered connections between the night skies and timeless legends. Now he wanted to sit and talk to the elders who knew traditional ways and ask his questions.

* * *

Before Europeans arrived and had devastating impacts on Aboriginal people’s lives, clans throughout the continent maintained cultural laws through storytelling and ceremony. Rob had been fortunate to find some early contact references to Aboriginal Cosmology while at university, even though little had been recorded. He was surprised by the detail and originality with which they described stars and constellations. Fascinating connections existed between these stories and daily life, and in some areas even kinship groups were directly linked to specific stars.

This valuable information helped Rob professionally when he was working at an auction house in Sydney. He introduced Cosmology and other aspects of culture when they were featured in artworks, including bark paintings. The most well-known character was the Rainbow Serpent whose story and illustrated image vary throughout Australia, but which is recognised universally as the world’s oldest religious symbol.

Naturally, many birds and animals are linked in story to the land and sea, and some are linked to the stars. For example Otjout the cod fish made the winding Murray River which forms the border between Victoria and New South Wales, and is linked to Constellation Delphinus. Another tells of Gallerlek the rose-crested cockatoo which is a symbol of Alderbaran, a binary star in Constellation Taurus. He played a major role in the legend of the Seven Sisters. Variations of this story occur throughout Australia, but it mainly tells the tale of beautiful young women chased by lustful men on earth and into the sky back to Constellation Pleiades, their home.

Rob was always surprised by the unimaginable scale of these stories. How did the old Aboriginal people know so much about the Sky-World? He discovered that some legends contained astronomical mysteries, and he was very keen to discuss them with traditional men. And yet, the knowledge he may gain would not be complete because he was a whitefella from a different culture and could never find out everything.

Rob also had questions about the intriguing tjurunga he examined in the Royal Albert Memorial Museum in Exeter, England. He definitely wanted to talk about them, but there was no guarantee anyone would discuss ‘sacred business’ with a stranger. Even so, Rob was quietly confident he would learn a lot because he was sincere and respectful. He was not trying to exploit Aboriginal people, but wanted to form friendly associations which he sensed would deepen throughout his trip.

* * *

After three hours of flying through endless blue skies and hovering white clouds, Rob caught his first glimpse of Uluru sitting majestically alone on the flat landscape. The huge, mystical monolith captivated him and he was compelled to stare, drawn in by unseen energies. These were special moments for Rob because Uluru was the spirit of his country, his Australia. He had not been back for a decade, yet when he travelled and experienced different cultures, this sacred, awe-inspiring site was ever-present in his heart. Known locally as “The Rock,” ancient Uluru was his old friend, and its magnetic attraction had released him to take other journeys, until today. But unfortunately he could only make a brief stopover, so an in-depth encounter would have to wait.

As the Qantas jet came in to land at Ayers Rock Airport unexpected sprinkles of rain streaked across its small passenger windows, and Rob strained his eyes and neck to keep Uluru in sight. Every drop of rain was welcome in this arid country, and the light sun shower continued as he and other passengers walked briskly across the tarmac and into the terminal. They only had time for a quick look around because in about twenty minutes they would board their connecting flight to Alice Springs.

Rob always knew he would return to Central Australia. The call of its unique landscape and timeless spirituality resonated strongly within wherever he lived in the world. Now, today, he really was back. Seeing Uluru again confirmed his return. Rob was home. His feelings were as simple and as comfortable as that.

The few spots of rain that had fallen out of nothing disappeared before Rob and the others walked out to board their flight. While waiting in the terminal he told several passengers that Alice Springs was about 450kms away by road, and they were very surprised. Most said they were pleased to be flying, although Rob assured them the drive was a fascinating close-up experience of the Outback. But today, like them, he just wanted to get there.

Rob had flown from the Big Apple, New York City, to the Big Rock, Central Australia, and in a few minutes would take-off on the last leg of his journey, a short flight of fifty minutes.

* * *

Alice Springs is an oasis of the Outback with an indefinable mystique that attracts people from all over the world. Bold geological forms and the rich, changeable colours of Dreamtime landscapes entice visitors to explore. Many locals lead the way by jumping into their 4WDs and going ‘out bush’ on camping trips, the wide land and big sky engendering a sense of freedom and adventure.

A fresh water spring in the famously dry Todd River (Lhere Mparntwe) gave rise to the European settlement called Stuart until 1933 when the name was changed to Alice Springs. The town sits in the middle of arid country yet is surprisingly abundant with trees, sports fields and recreational parks. Surrounded by large pastoral properties, Aboriginal communities on vast traditional lands, and immense orange-red country alive with stories, the Alice is the heart of a continent.

In local Aranda language it is Mparntwe or Mbantua meaning “meeting place” which it has been for thousands of years. And this tradition is ongoing because tracks of different kinds and from many different places still converge there today.

* * *

Rob’s flight was on descent and only minutes away from the town’s airport when he saw the magnificent MacDonnell Ranges (Tyurretye), unmistakable backbone of geologically ancient Central Australia. In traditional Aranda lore these ranges were created by three Caterpillar Ancestors, and this Aboriginal Dreaming and the Wild Dog Dreaming are perennial signatures of Alice Springs, as well as its oldest stories.

Flying in on wings of Winter sunshine, bright afternoon light created such clarity that the rock faces of the MacDonnells seemed touchable from Rob’s seat. He could almost taste the invigorating fresh air outside. As feelings of ‘coming home’ bubbled up inside, Rob was filled with nostalgia. He did not fully understand these feelings, but his longing for this special region was only matched by his anticipation about the coming days.