Читать книгу The Handyman's Book of Tools, Materials, and Processes Employed in Woodworking - Paul N. Hasluck - Страница 68

In use, the jack plane is pressed down on the work and thrust forward with a steady but deliberate stroke (see Fig. 182), when, if in proper condition, it should take off a shaving nearly as wide as the iron and as long as the piece being planed. Keep the face of the plane well oiled just in front of the iron. Always work with the grain if possible (Fig. 183). A far thicker shaving can be taken off smoothly in this way than if worked as in Fig. 184, which requires more careful work with a more finely set plane. Do not use the plane at an uncomfortable height. When the board to be planed is in position, and the worker takes the jack plane in hand ready to begin, a line drawn through his elbow and wrist should be rather lower than higher at the wrist, though if the forearm is level it will do. Do not attempt to take off thick shavings at the outset, and do not be disappointed if a shaving is not taken off from end to end at the first trial. If the wood has any hollow in it, it will be impossible to do this, and even if it is perfectly straight the beginner will have great difficulty in doing it. Beginners always plane too much off the end near the bench stop, and are too apt to move the arm in the arc of a circle. These errors must be avoided by careful practice. Try to plane the centre of the material rather than the margin, for if a good plane is in proper order it is impossible to make the wood much too hollow or concave; whereas, however good the plane, careless use of it can and will make the work convex in every direction. Probably there is no better lesson than to try to face up—that is, level—two pieces of stuff so that they will, when brought together, be in mutual contact. This simple job will require much perseverance on the part of a beginner if it is to be done successfully. Good progress will not be made if the wood practised upon is too small; little pieces are sure to be made convex in length by a beginner. Take a piece not less than 2 ft. long, though experience has shown that the best results in this exercise are obtained by using pieces of spruce 4 ft. long, 4 1/2 in. wide, and 3 in. thick; this is too stiff to bend, and affords a good surface. When some facility has been obtained, the blade of a 12 in. square or a straight-edge should be employed to test the work. To take a surface out of winding, get two straight-edges—say, 12 in. long, 1 1/2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick, and see that they are parallel. Place these across the work, one at each end; then by viewing both, bringing the eye down to glance from one to the other, it will be seen whether the two are in one plane. If they do not appear to lie in one plane, the surface is in winding, and opposite corners must be reduced till satisfactory. (See also p. 5.)

Fig. 176.—Chariot Plane.

Fig. 177.—Preston’s Chamfer Plane with Adjustable Fence.

Fig. 178.—Melhuish’s Chamfer Plane with Adjustable Fence.

Fig. 179.—Nurse’s Chamfer Plane.

Fig. 180.—Mitre Shooting Plane.

Fig. 181.—Handled Plough.