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INTRODUCTION

There is no denying that the mountains of Savoie are spectacularly beautiful. The proud pyramids of the Aiguilles d’Arves, the austere north-face of the Grande Casse and the sparkling ‘Dômes’ of the Vanoise Glaciers are as fine examples of mountain architecture as can be found anywhere. But there is more to the area than a collection of points of outstanding natural beauty. The geographical diversity of the region is a reflection of the different facets of Savoie’s complex personality: from the savageness of the Belledonne to the gentleness of the Beaufortain, from the ostentation of the Aiguille d’Arves to the aloofness of the Haute Maurienne. The tours described in this guide reflect the variety of landscape and skiing that makes ski touring in Savoie so special. The area is however best known to skiers for the Olympic ski-resorts of Tignes, Val d’Isère, Les Arcs, La Plagne and The Three Valleys, which lie on the northern edge of the Vanoise National Park.

The Vanoise National Park, situated in the département of Savoie, was the first national park to be created in France. As the park has been protected from the encroachment of the ski-resorts, it has been preserved as one of the great ski-touring areas of the French Alps.

The richness of the area for ski touring also lies in Savoie’s lesser-known massifs, such as the Lauzière, the Belledonne, the Beaufortain and the Haute Maurienne, which surround the Vanoise. This guide provides an introduction to all the different parts of this region and corresponds, more or less, to the French département of Savoie (with minor incursions into the neighbouring départements of Isère and Les Hautes Alpes) giving an overview of the wonderful and varied ski touring to be had here.

Vanoise Ski Touring is aimed at both experienced ski tourers and mountaineers who would like to get away from the hurly-burly of the ski-resorts. Ski touring is about much more than skiing ability; mountain skills such as navigation, glacier travel and avalanche awareness are indispensable. The safest way to start ski touring is with a mountain guide, this being especially true for skiers with no previous mountaineering experience.

Many of the tours start from resorts, though tours that are basically off-piste trails are not included; good off-piste skiing guides already exist for many of the major resorts. The guide should, however, be useful for people who would like to tour for just one or two days as part of a resort holiday.

The organisation of the guide follows the natural division of the Savoie département into its various geographical areas. The various types of tours were selected, as far as possible, to reflect the atmosphere of these areas and to provide interesting and homogenous excursions. In general, preference has been given to multi-day, hut-to-hut tours but in some areas it is more logical to do a number of day trips from a mountain hut or a base-camp in the valley. The tours involve up to six day’s skiing, although most can be lengthened or shortened to suit time constraints, weather conditions and fitness.

The final slopes below the Pointe Francesetti on Day 5 of the Carro/Evettes tour

Given good snow conditions, most of the tours are within the capabilities of any competent skier (ie. someone who is at ease on black slopes), but it must be remembered that snow conditions are not often perfect when you are touring. A final chapter describes some classic tours that fall more into the realm of ski mountaineering than ski touring. None of the tours in the guide can be considered extreme skiing.

It must be remembered that ski touring is both a physically demanding and a potentially dangerous sport; it is important not to over-estimate your fitness or technical abilities. Skinning uphill, with four kilograms of ski, binding and boot on each foot and a 10–15kg rucksack on your back, is an exhausting business. Do not expect to be able to do a 1500m climb every day unless you are very fit.

Most serious accidents are caused by avalanches, although crevasses, seracs and steep slopes, especially if there are cliffs in the fall-line, can also be extremely dangerous. General mountaineering knowledge and experience is at least as valuable as skiing ability if you want to have a long and safe ski-touring career.

Geography

This guide covers the mountains south of Mont Blanc and north of the Ecrins Massif. The western part is defined by the Grésivaudan Valley, which runs from Chambéry to Grenoble, the eastern edge by the Franco-Italian border.

This area is divided into three sections by the valleys of the River Isère (the Tarentaise Valley) and the River Arc (the Maurienne Valley). The Vanoise National Park, which lies between these two valleys, contains most of the highest mountains. The largest ski-resorts are on the northern and western edges of the Vanoise and provide convenient access points to the area. The Beaufortain lies to the north of the Vanoise, the Lauzière and Belledonne to the west and Valloire, Mont Thabor and the Haute Maurienne to the south.

Access

To get to all of the locations described in this book, it is necessary to pass through Chambéry. Chambéry is about 80km south of Geneva and 100km east of Lyons. There are regular, cheap flights from the UK to both these airports as well as to Chambéry itself. There is a shuttle-bus service between Lyons airport and Chambéry and a train service from Geneva airport to Chambéry.

On the summit ridge below the Levanna Occidentale on Day 2 of the Carro/Evettes tour

Skinning up the Col de Corne Noire on Day 2 in the Beaufortain with the Crête du Rey in the background

From Chambéry it is possible to get to most of the larger resorts using a combination of train and bus services. Unfortunately, public transport starts to become less reliable when the resorts close in the middle of April; the best time for touring in the higher areas is generally April to May. Contact the relevant tourist office for further details (see Appendix 3).

By far the easiest way to reach the start of most of the tours is by car. The road access from Chambéry is described at the start of each section.

Snow Conditions and Avalanches

Snow Conditions

As in all mountain areas, the weather and therefore the snow conditions can be very variable. The snowpack can be very unstable in winter, especially in the higher areas (above 2500m). The best time for ski touring is March to May. If you want to go touring earlier in the season, it is best to stay in the lower massifs. All skiers dream of finding 50cm of virgin powder; that light, ‘fluffy’ snow that gives you the sensation that you are floating down the mountainside. Seasoned ski tourers know that spring snow, produced by the freeze-thaw action of the sun, can be equally sublime to ski. They delight in finding rock-hard névé, knowing that when the top few centimetres melt as the day warms-up, they will have the perfect skiing surface. It is rare for powder to last long on south-facing slopes, even the middle of winter.

On the other hand, after two weeks of good weather, spring snow can be found sometimes as early as February. With an astute choice of itinerary you can usually find good snow. No one makes the perfect choice every time and, because many tours include slopes with different aspects, you will undoubtedly come across difficult snow conditions from time to time. In crusty or very heavy snow, survival skiing becomes the watchword: ‘hop and hope’ often being the best turning technique! When slopes are very icy it may even be best to descend in crampons.

Avalanches

In an average year, 100 people are killed by avalanches in the Alps and you must be aware of the dangers. Please see the table on Avalanche Safety Information on the next page.

Information on snow conditions and the avalanche risk can be obtained (in French) by telephoning 08 92 68 10 20. These bulletins are updated every day at 4pm. The information they give is extremely useful in planning a tour but conditions can still vary locally. A seven day weather forecast can be obtained by dialling 08 92 68 02 73. The forecast is updated three times a day, at 7.30am, 12 noon and 6pm.

AVALANCHE SAFETY INFORMATION

This book is not a guide to avalanche awareness but some general points must be borne in mind when deciding where, or even whether, to go.

1 It is difficult to assess the snow conditions in an area without good knowledge of the terrain and recent weather conditions. Telephone snow reports, hut wardens, local mountain guides and, if you are in a resort, the ski-patrol can all provide indispensable information.

2 Even after several days of good weather, certain slopes can still be very dangerous. Weak layers in the snow-pack can last a surprisingly long time.

3 Learn to read the signs that may indicate unstable accumulations of snow; for example cornices, ripple marks, snow dunes etc.

4 If you are uncertain about the stability of a slope and it is impossible to avoid crossing it, do so one at a time and only stop in ‘safe’ zones, such as behind large rocks or trees.

5 The first person to ski a slope will not always be the person who triggers an avalanche. Sometimes several skiers can pass before the slope avalanches.

6 All members of a group should carry an avalanche transceiver and know how to use it. Each skier must also have an avalanche probe, in order to pin-point the exact position of the victim, and a snow shovel, to dig them out. A person buried by an avalanche has a good chance of survival if they are found within twenty minutes, however, by the time outside help arrives they will probably be dead. Your ability to find and free an avalanche victim could save a life.

7 There is no such thing as zero risk. Each party must assess the risks involved at any particular moment and make a decision accordingly.

Nearing the Refuge du Carro on the first day of the Carro/Evettes tour

Emergencies

Where necessary (ie. when the route is not obvious or where the logistics are complicated) details of the quickest ways to reach civilisation in the event of bad weather or an accident occuring have been given. Often these escape routes are quite long but they are the fastest ways to evacuate an accident victim or the best ways out in bad weather.

It must be remembered that mobile phone coverage, away from ski-resorts, is still not perfect. The emergency services can be contacted by dialling 18.

The mountains are much more hostile in winter than in summer and the rescue services, although they will do their best, may not be able to reach accident victims quickly. In one famous case in 1998, four ski tourers were trapped by bad weather near the Col de la Vanoise. They survived the ten days it took the rescue services to find them because they were extremely well equipped. Having the right equipment, and knowing how to use it, is vitally important.

N.B. All decisions about where to go, or even whether to go at all, must be taken by the individuals concerned, taking into account the weather and snow conditions at the time.

Equipment

It is possible to buy touring adaptors for standard downhill bindings but, for all but the shortest of tours, it is worth considering having special touring skis, boots and bindings. The gains in weight and comfort during the climb more than compensate for the loss of performance during the descent.

A full set of touring gear is a big investment but it is possible to rent touring gear in many of the larger towns and resorts. A week’s rental for touring skis, skins, boots, poles, avalanche transceiver, snow shovel and avalanche probe cost around 150€ to 200€ in 2002. As ski touring is growing in popularity, more and more outdoor shops have gear to rent: the local tourist office (see Appendix 3) should be able to give details of where you can rent ski touring gear (matériel de ski de randonnée in French).

Telemark skiers do not have to invest so heavily; all they need to add to standard telemark gear is a set of skins and couteaux/harscheisen.

It is often a good idea to carry a pair of crampons; the rock-hard nevé that you climb in the morning can turn into perfect spring snow by lunchtime. When touring in the high mountains you should also take standard glacier gear (ie. ice-axe, rope, harness, one or two ice-screws, slings and prussick loops or jumars).

Avalanche transceivers are not an unnecessary luxury. These small devices, when correctly used, allow an avalanche victim to be found very quickly. Each member of the party should have one and know how to use it. They should be turned on and tested at the beginning of each day, even if the snow-pack seems perfectly stable. The day you decide to leave it at home is the day you will be caught by a very unexpected avalanche. The transceiver should allow you to localise the victim to within a metre or two, at which point an avalanche probe will be necessary to pinpoint him/her. Transceivers are of little use unless you also have a snow shovel to dig a buried friend out of an avalanche.

Approaching the summit of Mont Bellacha on the second day of the Lauzière tour

Leaving the Refuge du Fond d’Assois on Day 4 of the Glaceirs de la Vanoise tour

A map and compass are also essential items. An altimeter, or a GPS if you are feeling rich and technologically minded, can prove useful, especially in poor visibility.

In terms of clothing it is better to use a multi-layer system so you can adapt your clothing to the conditions. Standard alpine walking/climbing clothing will suffice but with perhaps an extra layer (or two). Even in February it is sometimes possible to be in shorts and t-shirt for the climb but thermals, fleece jackets and a duvet are very welcome as soon as you stop. Two pairs of gloves, a lightweight pair for the climb and standard ski gloves for the descent, make life more comfortable.

Skinning uphill burns calories at an incredible rate so it is important to eat, and even more so to drink regularly. Carry at least 1½ litres of water. Camelback type drinking systems are ideal in spring but the drinking tubes are rather prone to freezing in winter.

For one or two day trips a 35 to 40-litre rucksack is big enough. For longer tours a 45 to 55-litre rucksack is better.

Maps

The sketch maps that I have included in this guide are only designed to give an overall view of the layout of the tours and to help with orientation on the relevant topographical map.

Large-scale maps are essential for ski touring as paths, cairns and even sign-posts are generally covered by the snow. Following other people’s tracks is not recommended, unless you are certain that they are going to the same place as you and that the people who made the tracks know what they are doing. In navigational terms, you are on your own!

By far the best and most detailed maps available are the IGN Top 25 series, published by the French national survey at a scale of 1:25,000. There is also a series of 1:50,000 scale maps, published by Didier Richard. Obviously it is cheaper to buy the larger scale maps and they are ideal for planning, but the extra detail provided by the 1:25,000 maps is invaluable should you get caught in bad weather.

Both map series show a selection of ski tours, some of which are included in this guide. The itineraries marked on the topographical maps are indicative only and the routes that I describe are not always the same as those on the maps.

Mountain Huts

This area is very well served by huts. Most of them are run by the French Alpine Club or the Vanoise National Park but there are also a number of private huts.

Inside the Refuge du Fond des Fours

During the winter months there will only be a small part of each hut open and the warden will not be present. These winter huts usually supply blankets, gas, stoves, pans and eating utensils and have a wood burning fire. The only things that you need to bring are food, matches, candles and a torch, and perhaps a sheet sleeping bag for a bit of extra comfort.

This is the case for all the huts used for the tours in this guide, with the exception of the huts used in the Belledonne. These huts are quite rudimentary; they only supply mattresses and a wood-burning stove for heating. It is necessary to take your own stove, cooking utensils and a sleeping bag.

The toilet facilities tend to be very basic or non-existent in winter. To protect what is a very fragile environment it is a good idea to burn your toilet paper or to take it down with you for disposal.

The unrestricted access to these huts is increasingly being called into question because of the thoughtless minority who abuse the system. It is essential to leave the hut in the state in which you would like to find it and to pay for your night’s accommodation. The use of these huts is not free, but rates are very reasonable, usually 10 to 12€ per night. Payment is based on an honesty system; money should be put in the envelopes provided and placed in the letterbox. Without this network of huts, and the facilities they provide, ski touring would be much more uncomfortable. Please, do not be among the selfish few who put this service in jeopardy for everyone else.

Skinning back up to the Refuge du Merlet (Alternative Day 4 of the Belledonne tour)

Descent from the Col du Villonet on Day 6 in the Belledonne with the Puy Gris in the background

Many of the huts are guarded during the spring. In these cases there is a warden present and meals are available, either on a half-board or bed-and-breakfast basis. Half board usually costs around 35€, plus drinks. Occasionally, there is no drinking water available. Either you will have to buy bottled water or melt snow. If you only want to pay for your bed (around 10 to 12€) there is usually a small corner where you can cook, often marked coin hors sac. When you plan to use a guarded hut you should always book in advance, even if it is only by a few hours. If the hut is full and you have not booked, you may be turned away. Huts can be booked by phoning the warden. The current phone numbers for the huts used for the tours in this guide are given in Appendix 2. If you book a place in a hut and you cannot get there, please telephone the warden as this will prevent a lot of unnecessary concern about your safety (and possibly avoid food being wasted!).

Accommodation

As Savoie is a very popular tourist destination there is a wide range of accommodation available. If you want to combine a few days touring with a more traditional resort holiday then it is usually cheapest to go on a package deal booked in the UK.

If you only want to go touring, it is worth staying in the valleys where accommodation is usually cheaper than in the resorts. Another advantage of a valley base is that you can easily change from one area to another for one-day and two-day trips, a real bonus as you will be free to go where the best snow conditions are. This is not such a consideration if you are planning a multi-day trip. In Appendix 3 are listed a few useful publications and the telephone numbers and internet addresses of the main tourist information offices. If you are only planning to spend one or two nights in the valley, the cheapest and often most convenient type of accommodation is in a gîte d’étape. These are similar to mountain huts, but are situated beside roads, and are used to dealing with sporty guests.

Outside the French school holidays it is usually possible to find accommodation without booking. During the holidays (all of February and late March to the end of April) booking is essential to avoid disappointment.

Bad Weather Alternatives

If you are unlucky enough to be faced with a period of bad weather making touring impossible and you have had enough of paying 30€ a day to ski in zero visibility in an overcrowded ski-resort, what else is there to do? The answer depends on the time of year.

In the winter months cross-country skiing or snowshoeing can provide entertaining alternatives. There are some excellent cross-country ski areas in Savoie, often amongst the trees and therefore protected from the worst of the weather. Equipment rental and ski passes are much cheaper than for alpine skiing.

Snowshoeing may look like a very pedestrian sport but great fun can be had in forest areas when there is deep snow and the avalanche risk is too high to venture elsewhere. Snowshoes can be rented in most resorts for as little as 8€ a day. Generally there is no point in following sign-posted snowshoeing trails as the snow rapidly gets compacted by the passage of too many people. Get the map out, use a bit of imagination and you will have an excellent day.

In spring it is often possible to go mountain biking or climbing in the valleys in the sunshine when the mountains are buried in cloud. Otherwise, if the weather forecast is abysmal for a few days, remember you are only about a four hour drive from Provence and its much more clement weather.

For more cultural activities, the cities of Grenoble, Annecy, Lyons and Geneva are all within easy reach.

Using the Route Descriptions

The route descriptions give all the information necessary to follow an itinerary, but it must be remembered that the best line to follow will vary depending on the snow conditions.

Below the Col de Morétan into the Pointe de Comberousse in the background (Day 4 of the Belledonne traverse)

Starting and finishing points

The stated heights for these points were taken from the relevant IGN 1:25000 scale maps.

Height gain

The height gain is the difference in height between the starting point and finishing point plus any significant additions due to undulating terrain. The resulting figure has been rounded off to the nearest 10m.

Time

The time required has been calculated on the basis of an average climb rate of 300m per hour, a descent rate of 1000m per hour and a 30-minute break at the summit. Where appropriate, extra time has been allowed for tours that cover long distances or when there is more than one climb. The time required will also depend on snow conditions: it is much quicker to climb and descend in perfect spring snow conditions than in breakable crust!

Orientation

The predominant orientation of the descent(s) is given. This is very important for the timing of your day as changes in the qaulity and stability of the snow are related both to the ambient temperature and the warming effect of the sun. Do not hesitate to start early if the descent faces east or south.

The terms right bank and left bank used refer to the true (orographical) right and left banks of rivers and glaciers.

Difficulty

All grading systems are subjective. This is even more so for skiing, as the difficulty of a slope (both for going up and for skiing down) is as much a function of the snow conditions as the gradient. Though it isn’t possible for any grading system to take into account snow conditions, the grades here assume these are reasonably good.

The grade descriptions themselves are defined by the gradient of the slope, the length of the steepest sections and the presence of cliffs, or other obstacles, which would make the consequences of a fall more serious. The system adopted, which does not claim any equivalence with any other system used to describe ski tours, uses six grades ranging from easy to extreme (the extreme grade is beyond my own capabilities and thus there are no extreme tours in this guide). Please see the table below for grade descriptions.

The majority of the tours in this book fall into the moderate and quite difficult categories and should be within the abilities of most competent, experienced ski tourers.

Multi-day tours usually involve slopes with different orientations so you are unlikely to have perfect conditions all the time. It is important to get into the habit of observing the changes in snow conditions during the climb to get a better idea of what is likely to be waiting for you during the descent.

The length of the climb can also contribute to the difficulty of a tour. It is much more difficult to ski well after doing a 1000m climb, especially if you are carrying a heavy rucksack, than when you step off a ski-lift!

N.B. Like all mountain sports, ski touring can be dangerous. Do not over-estimate your abilities; tours should be chosen to suit the weakest member of the party. Embarking on a ski-tour assumes that you have the necessary technical skills to move safely in mountain terrain. If you do not have these skills one of the best ways to learn is to go with a guide.

GRADES

EASY

Generally quite gentle slopes but may include very short sections of up to 30°

MODERATE

Longer slopes of up to 30°, possibly including short sections of up to 35°

QUITE DIFFICULT

Slopes of around 35°, possibly including short sections of up to 40°

DIFFICULT

Slopes of around 35 to 40°, possibly including short sections of up to 45°

VERY DIFFICULT

Long slopes of around 40 to 45°

EXTREME

Slopes of above 45°

Inserted blue text

This give additional information that is not covered by other parts of the description, or to comment on a particular point of interest of the tour.

Itinerary

The itineraries described are not necessarily identical to the ski routes marked on the maps. However, the detailed description of the itinerary and the sketch map are designed to be used in conjunction with the relevant topographical map; the sketch maps give an overview of the tour to help in orientating yourself on the topographical map. Neither the description nor the sketch map can replace the topographical map since snow conditions, changes in the weather, accidents or even fatigue may necessitate major changes to your itinerary.

Alternatives

The Alternatives section, placed in the introduction to each chapter, suggests a number of ways of making the tour longer or shorter and harder or easier. It also mentions other interesting tours in the same general area.

Other itineraries

This section, in the introduction to each chapter, locates other itineraries in the same region that may be followed in addition to those described in the tours. Details of the climb, such as the name, the height and the difficulty, are given. Some comments about the nature and features of the climb are also noted.

Skinning up to the Pointe de Combe Bronsin (Day 1) with the Pic du Rognolet and the Grand Pic de la Lauzière in the background