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CHAPTER II
A DEPARTURE-POINT

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As the character of the travel is distinctive, so the outcome of the voyage is unique. If he choose his departure-point aright, the observer will be vouchsafed an experience without parallel on Earth. To select this setting-out station is the first step in the journey upon which everything depends. For it is essential to visual arrival that a departure-point be taken where definition is at its best. Now, so far as our present knowledge goes, the conditions most conducive to good seeing turn out to lie in one or other of the two great desert belts that girdle the globe. Many of us are unaware of the existence of such belts and yet they are among the most striking features of physical geography. Could we get off our globe and view it from without we should mark two sash-like bands of country, to the poleward side of either tropic, where the surface itself lay patently exposed. Unclothed of verdure themselves they would stand forth doubly clear by contrast. For elsewhere cloud would hide to a greater or less extent the actual configuration of the Earth’s topography to an observer scanning it from space.

One of these sash-like belts of desert runs through southern California, Arizona, New Mexico, the Sahara, Arabia Petræa and the Desert of Gobi; the other traverses Peru, the South African veldt, and Western Australia. They are desert because in them rain is rare; and even clouds seldom form. In a twofold way they conduce to astronomic ends. Absence of rain makes primarily for clear skies and secondarily for steady air; and the one of these conditions is no less vital to sight than the other. Water vapor is a great upsetter of atmospheric equilibrium and commotion in the air the spoiler of definition. Thus from the cloudlessness of their skies man finds in them most chance of uninterrupted communion with the stars, while by suitably choosing his spot he here obtains as well that prime desideratum for planetary work, as near a heavenly equanimity in the air currents over his head as is practically possible.

From the fact that these regions are desert they are less frequented of man, and the observer is thus perforce isolated by the nature of the case, the regions best adapted to mankind being the least suited to astronomic observations. In addition to what nature has thus done in the matter, humanity has further differentiated the two classes of sights by processes of its own contriving. Not only is civilized man actively engaged in defacing such part of the Earth’s surface as he comes in contact with, he is equally busy blotting out his sky. In the latter uncommendable pursuit he has in the last quarter of a century made surprising progress. With a success only too undesirable his habitat has gradually become canopied by a welkin of his own fashioning, which has rendered it largely unfit for the more delicate kinds of astronomic work. Smoke from multiplying factories by rising into the air and forming the nucleus about which cloud collects has joined with electric lighting to help put out the stars. These concomitants of advancing civilization have succeeded above the dreams of the most earth-centred in shutting off sight of the beyond so that today few city-bred children have any conception of the glories of the heavens which made of the Chaldean shepherds astronomers in spite of themselves.

The old world and the new are alike affected by such obliteration. Long ago London took the lead with fogs proverbial wholly due to smoke, fine particles of solid matter in suspension making these points of condensation about which water vapor gathers to form cloud. With the increase of smoke-emitting chimneys over the world other centres of population have followed suit till today Europe and eastern North America vie with each other as to which sky shall be the most obliterate. Even when the obscuration is not patent to the layman it is evident to the meteorologist or astronomer. By a certain dimming of the blue, smoke or dust reveals its presence high up aloft as telltalely as if the thing itself were visible. Some time since the writer had occasion to traverse Germany in summer from Göttingen to Cologne and in so doing was impressed by a cloudiness of the sky he felt sure had not existed when he knew it as a boy. For the change was too startling and extensive to be wholly laid to the score of the brighter remembrances of youth. On reaching Cologne he mentioned his suspicion to Klein, only to find his own inference corroborated; observations made twenty years ago being impracticable today. Two years later in Milan Celoria told the same story, the study of Mars having ceased to be possible there for like cause. Factory smoke and electric lights had combined to veil the planet at about the time Schiaparelli gave up his observations because of failing sight. With a certain poetic fitness the sky had itself been blotted just at the time the master’s eye had dimmed.

America is not behind in this race for sky extinction. In the neighborhood of its great cities and spreading into the country round about the heavens have ceased to be favorable to research. Not till we pass beyond the Missouri do the stars shine out as they shone before the white man came.

Few astronomers even fully appreciate how much this means, so used does man get to slowly changing conditions. It amounts, indeed, between Washington and Arizona to a whole magnitude in the stars which may be seen. At the Naval Observatory of the former sixty-four stars were mapped in a region where with a slightly smaller glass one hundred and seventy-two were charted at Flagstaff.

Besides their immediate use as observing stations these desert belts possess mediate interest on their own account in a branch of the very study their cloudlessness helps to promote, the branch here considered, the study of the planet Mars. They help explain what they permit to be visible. For in the physical history of the Earth’s development they are among the latest phenomena and mark the beginning of that stage of world evolution into which Mars is already well advanced. They are symptomatic of the passing of a terraqueous globe into a purely terrestrial one. Desertism, the state into which every planetary body must eventually come and for which, therefore, it becomes necessary to coin a word, has there made its first appearance upon the Earth. Standing as it does for the approach of age in planetary existence, it may be likened to the first gray hairs in man. Or better still it corresponds to early autumnal frost in the passage of the seasons. For the beginning to age in a planet means not decrepitude in its inhabitants but the very maturing of this its fruit. Evolution of mind in its denizens continues long after desolation in their habitat has set in. Indeed, advance in brain-power seriously develops only when material conditions cease to be bodily propitious and the loss of corporeal facilities renders its acquisition necessary to life.

The resemblance, distant but distinctive, of the climatic conditions necessary on earth for the best scanning of Mars with those which prove to be actually existent on that other world has a bearing on the subject worth considerable attention. It helps directly to an understanding and interpretation of the Martian state of things. Though partial only, the features and traits of our arid zones are sufficiently like what prevails on Mars to make them in some sort exponent of physical conditions and action there. Much that is hard of appreciation in a low, humid land shows itself an everyday possibility in a high and dry one. The terrible necessity of water to all forms of life, animal or vegetal, so that in the simple thought of the aborigines rain is the only god worth great propitiation upon the due observance of which everything depends, brings to one a deeper realization of what is really vital and what but accessory at best. One begins to conceive what must be the controlling principle of a world where water is only with difficulty to be had, and rain unknown.

But in addition to the fundamental importance of water, the relative irrelevancy of some other conditions usually deemed indispensable to organic existence there find illustration too. On the high plateau of northern Arizona and on the still higher volcanic cones that rise from them as a base into now disintegrating peaks, the thin cold air proves no bar to life. To the fauna there air is a very secondary consideration to water, and because the latter is scarce in the lowlands and more abundant higher up, animals ascend after it, making their home at unusual elevations with no discomfort to themselves. Deer range to heights where the barometric pressure is but three fifths that of their generic habitat. Bear do the like, the brown bear of northern American sea-level being here met with two miles above it. Nor is either animal a depauperate form. Man himself contrives to live in comfort and propagate his kind where at first he finds it hard to breathe. Nor are these valiant exceptions; as Merriam has ably shown in his account of the San Francisco peak region for the Smithsonian Institution—a most interesting report, by the way—the other animals are equally adaptive to the zones of more northern latitudes on the American continent, zones paralleled in their flora and fauna by the zones of altitude up this peak. All which shows that paucity of air is nothing like the barrier to life we ordinarily suppose and is not for an instant to be compared with dearth of water. If in a comparatively short time an animal or plant accustomed to thirty inches of barometric pressure can contrive to subsist sensibly unchanged at eighteen, it would be rash to set limits to what time may not do. And this the more for another instructive fact discovered in this region by Merriam: that the existence of a species was determined not by the mean temperature of its habitat but by the maximum temperature during the time of procreation. A short warm season in summer alone decides whether the species shall survive and flourish; that it has afterward to hibernate for six months at a time does not in the least negative the result.


The San Francisco Peaks

That the point of departure should thus prove of twofold importance, speeding the observer on his journey and furnishing him with a vade mecum on arrival, is as curious as opportune. Without such furtherance, to the bodily eye on the one hand and the mind’s eye on the other, the voyage were less conclusive in advent and less satisfactory in attent.

Mars and Its Canals

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