Читать книгу Trail and Fell Running in the Yorkshire Dales - Pete Ellwood - Страница 10
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
The long descent from Great Coum to Barbondale (Route 14)
Running is one of the most popular sports in the world, which is a reflection of its inherent simplicity and ease of participation. Running in the hills and mountains can provide us with some of our best running experiences. The benefits, motivations and incentives of running, of which there are many, include the following:
Enjoyment
Being out in the countryside in the fresh air, enjoying gorgeous views and having memorable experiences, provides an escape from the more mundane aspects of the day job and family life, and allows runners a moment to themselves, for their own enjoyment and wellbeing.
Fitness
Running burns calories, makes the lungs and heart stronger and releases chemical endorphins that provide the feel-good factor. Plenty of good research demonstrates the positive health benefits of regular exercise. Running on paths and tracks reduces the repetitive stresses and strains on the body compared with running on roads. Each footstep is planted differently; your eyes and brain must coordinate their responses to negotiate the terrain ahead. Running also strengthens mental resilience and can clear the mind, allowing you to focus on the challenges ahead. When the weather takes a turn for the worse, the mental toughness needed to complete a long day out in the hills is immense.
Competition
Fell running offers different types of races: big and small, short or long, take your pick. Other events include challenges where completion is the name of the game.
Fell racing is an excellent way to discover the Dales, and the variety of races available mean that you can race for just a couple of miles or for over twenty. Fell racing provides a different type of enjoyment and challenge and is the culmination of weeks, sometimes months, of training. Turning up on the start line with similar-minded people, all with their own version of the ‘no I am not fit at the moment’ comment or a description of a niggly injury is not uncommon. Inevitably, they will speed away from you as race begins. Most runners can usually manage a good final sprint, and the shared sense of achievement as you cross the finish line is tremendous. A shake of the hand with your fellow competitors is usually followed by a discussion of how hard it was and which sections you ran well.
Containing some of the finest running terrain in the British Isles, the Yorkshire Dales covers an area of over 2000km2 in northern England, sandwiched between the Lake District and the Pennines. The abundance of good paths and tracks make running in the Dales an amazing experience, and one that is accessible to most of us, with a mixture of medium-sized peaks and broad open moorlands to climb and run across. This book contains what I consider to be forty of the best routes in the Dales, including runs up the iconic mountains of Whernside, Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent, as well as routes that traverse the moors in the far north of the region. From the honeypot sites of Malham and Grassington, to runs in the Howgills (the Yorkshire Dales National Park boundary was extended in August 2016 to include the northern Howgills, among other areas), there is a route in this book to suit runners of differing abilities.
Welcome to the Yorkshire Dales
THE YORKSHIRE DALES
History and geology
The word ‘dale’ comes from the ancient Norse word ‘dalr’ meaning valley. The Yorkshire Dales National Park (YDNP) covers over 800 square miles of these valleys, taking in a section of the central Pennines from Skipton and Settle in the south to Sedbergh and Reeth in the north.
Some dales, such as the Swale, Ure, Nidd and Wharfe, flow east and empty into the North Sea, while others, such as the Ribble, Lune and Eden, flow west to the Irish Sea.
The Dales rise in areas of high gritstone moorland or mountains, with the majority cutting through deep bands of limestone created 300 million years ago from the remains of marine crustaceans that lived in shallow tropical seas; the Dales at that time was positioned south of the equator. The rocks contain rich veins of minerals and metals that were mined for centuries, bringing wealth and employment to the area.
The last ice age changed the landscape into the one we are familiar with today. Classic features such as u-shaped valleys abound, each filled with a river too small to ever have formed it. There are also characteristic features such as Malham Cove, a 300ft-high dry cove, which incredibly became a waterfall for the first time in two centuries during Storm Desmond in December 2015.
Swaledale, a typical glaciated valley
Overlying the natural geology and geomorphology of the area is the influence of mankind over the past two thousand years. There are few places in the Dales that are untouched by human activity, the whole area being criss-crossed by dry-stone walls, roads, railway lines and settlements.
Since prehistoric times, through to later Roman and Monastic periods, people have moved through the Dales developing a system of paths and tracks that are still used today, albeit for different purposes. Drove routes established in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries created trails for transporting cattle and lead from the mines throughout the area, many of which are still in use today. Swaledale also has an ancient corpse road, along which the bodies of the dead were carried to a church for burial in consecrated ground.
The Romans were among the first to develop a network of roads, linking forts and towns to aid the movement of troops as they sought to subdue the native tribes. Later, these were used to access and exploit mineral resources from the region.
During the middle ages, the great monasteries of Bolton, Rievaulx and Fountains owned vast areas of land in the Dales, which they used for sheep farming, while they also continued to build up profitable mining businesses, extracting metals (mainly lead) from deep underground.
Remains of the old lead mines at Gunnerside Gill (Route 24)
Upland farming is a common feature in the Dales, with relatively small farms keeping flocks of sheep and small herds of cattle. This has created the flower-rich hay meadow habitats of the Dales today. Traditionally, the hay was stored in stone barns that were once common across the Dales; it was kept in lofts above the byres that housed the cattle.
Most recently the Dales has become a popular tourist destination. People are drawn by the beautiful scenery and wide open spaces or are seeking the challenge of the many outdoor pursuits available in the area. TV programmes such as James Herriot’s All Creatures Great and Small and iconic events such as the Tour De France have all showcased the area.
Nesting restrictions
Most of the runs involve areas of high moorland or mountains. In the spring, these come alive with the sound of returning birds, such as the curlew, lapwing and golden plover. However, the numbers of these birds have decreased in recent years and for that reason restrictions have been introduced in some areas; between March and July runners with dogs are asked to keep them on a lead to minimise the disturbance to ground-nesting birds. Spring is also lambing time, and runners are asked to keep their dogs under close control around sheep at this time. Many grouse moors may be closed in the early autumn. For up-to-date access details visit www.yorkshiredales.org.uk.
Meadow pipit
Accommodation
The Dales contains sufficient accommodation for all tastes and budgets; camp sites, youth hostels, pubs, B&Bs, self-catering cottages and hotels are present in all the major population centres and Dales. For further details visit www.yorkshire.com and www.yorkshiredales.org.uk.
Transport
Transport in the Dales is predominantly by road. The area is bordered by the M6 to the west, the A1 and A1M to the east, the A65 and A59 to the south and the A66 to the north. The A684 crosses the middle of the Dales from west to east. Minor roads pass through all the individual dales, and there are many smaller roads crossing from one dale to another.
Various public transport options are available from the main towns into the Dales. The main bus service is the Dales Bus (www.dalesbus.org). The Rail to Trail service uses the Bentham line, which runs between Morecombe and Leeds, to access the southern Dales (www.communityraillancashire.co.uk). Additionally, there are a growing number of community bus links operating, including The Little White Bus (www.littlewhitebus.co.uk), which serves the Upper Dales; the Northern Dalesman Bus (www.dalesbus.org/northerndalesman), which covers an area from Ribblehead through Wensleydale and Swaledale to Richmond; and the Western Dales Bus (www.westerndalesbus.co.uk), which runs between Dent and the Howgills. Many of these services are seasonal and run less frequently during the winter months.
Details of public transport links are outlined in each route description. Railway access to the Dales is mainly via the Settle–Carlisle line (www.settle-carlisle.co.uk), which runs from Skipton, through Settle to Dent and Kirkby Stephen. The line offers much in the way of linear routes, allowing the runner to travel to different parts of the Dales before running back over the hills to the start of the route. Many of the routes in the south-west Dales and Three Peaks section can be run from this line.
Steam train on the Settle–Carlisle line (Route 19)
Maps
OS maps of the Yorkshire Dales are printed in two scales: 1:50,000 and 1:25,000. The detail provided by the larger scale map is useful in poor weather conditions and if you are unfamiliar with the area. Harvey’s also produce maps of the Dales in two scales: 1:40,000 and 1:25,000.
Maps are available from the many outdoor equipment shops in the Dales and online. They are also available as downloads from the Ordnance Survey (OS) and other apps, such as ViewRanger. However, when using maps on a phone or mobile device it is imperative that you are aware of battery life and signal strength in remote areas. Runners need to be able to navigate accurately using whichever maps they choose.
RUNNING IN THE YORKSHIRE DALES
A brief history
Running is a relatively old sport in the region, with Burnsall being the oldest recorded fell race in the Dales, dating back to 1882. Many of the agricultural shows, large and small, would feature a race to the summit of a local fell, where locals competed against each other for the prize of returning first to the show field. Fell races sat comfortably with other local competitions, such as dry-stone walling, horse jumping, stick dressing and the showing of livestock, especially sheep, against a backdrop of a largely agricultural economy where betting was a large part of the event. Over the years, many of the greatest fell runners of their generation, including Ernest Dalzell, Bill Teasdale, Fred Reeves and Tommy Sedgwick, competed in these races. They brought an air of eager anticipation to the late afternoon, as the front runners ascended the fell at great speed before descending, even faster, steep and sometimes rocky escarpments to finally sprint across the show field to rapturous cheers and applause. Fred Reeve’s 1977 Burnsall record of 12min 47s still stands. Many of these races are still run today, organised by either the show committee, BOFRA (British Open Fell Runners Association) or the FRA (Fell Running Association). Other races have also taken place for many years, including the Fellsman Hike, which originated in 1962. Organised by the Keighley Scout Service Group, this linear route starts from Ingleton and traverses the Dales, with the winners finishing the 61 miles in Grassington, just over ten hours later.
Runners competing in the Pen-y-ghent race
Tracks and trails
Trail running has recently become a popular addition to our sport, and the Dales provides an extensive network of paths, bridleways, tracks, trails and roads, offering some of the finest fell and trail running. Many of these routes follow ancient drove roads that were once used for transporting vital supplies between one dale and another. The rise in popularity of trail running has led to an increase in organised events covering a range of distances, from 10km to over 50km; many of which are low-key, non-competitive events. Participants navigate the course using a map and a written route description, via well-stocked checkpoints, to the finish.
In recent years walking, mountain biking and running for leisure have grown enormously, with many more people taking up the sport of running and visiting the Yorkshire Dales to pursue their hobby. The popular tourist centres of Settle, Sedbergh, Hawes and Reeth cater for outdoor sports and increasingly for runners, with shops and guiding services readily available.
Crossing the Dales are several long distance trails; the most well known of which are the Pennine Way and the Dales Way. The Pennine Way runs from Edale in the Peak District to Kirk Yetholm in the Scottish borders. The Spine Race, which is held each January, runs the length of the Pennine Way, the completion of which is a fantastic achievement. The Dales Way, which runs through the Dales, traverses Wharfedale from Ilkley before crossing the Cam High Road into Dentdale, finishing at a point overlooking Lake Windermere at Bowness. At 81 miles, this route makes a good multi-day running (otherwise known as ‘fastpacking’) trip.
Signpost: ‘Hawes’
Three Peaks race
The most famous long race in the Dales is the Three Peaks Race. Held annually in April, the race comprises the Yorkshire Three Peaks of Pen-y-ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough, starting and finishing in Horton in Ribblesdale. In common with most races, the winners complete the course in superhuman times. The current women’s record stands at 3hr 9min (Victoria Wilkinson, 2017), while the men’s record is 2hr 46min (Andy Peace, 1996). The mid-pack usually takes between four to five hours to reach the finish. Route 4 in the South-West Dales and Three Peaks section of this book describes a route that takes in these three famous peaks. Be aware it does not describe the classic Three Peaks race route. Sometimes criticised as more of a trail race by fell runners, the Three Peaks Race is a hard route with fast running on good tracks, many of which have recently been improved, between each of the peaks. The final run-off, from the summit of Ingleborough, seems much longer than normal, even though from early on the finish marquee can be seen in the distance. The final run-in, across the field, under the railway, around someone’s garden, across the road and over the final few metres of grass, is accompanied by cheers from the large crowd and the announcement of your name over the tannoy system. This is markedly different to other fell races. As a local runner, the support you receive throughout the race is unbelievable and well worth all the hard miles of training.
The badge of the Three Peaks Club (Image trademark of the 'Three Peaks Cafe')
Other events
The Yorkshire Dales offers a wide range of different races, from the short and fast races at Burnsall and Kilnsey Shows to the longer classic events like the Three Peaks Race. Equally, many challenge events are held in the Dales each year, often raising money for charities, such as mountain rescue teams, allowing them to continue their superb work.
For details of other races and events, visit the following websites: FRA (www.fellrunner.org.uk), BOFRA (www.bofra.org.uk), the Trail Running Association (TRA) (www.tra-uk.org) or YDNP (www.yorkshiredales.org.uk).
Running clubs
The Dales offers many well-attended running clubs. Most of the larger towns have a club that trains on the fells, and they are always open to new members and visitors. For further details visit www.fellrunner.org.uk.
The author representing Settle Harriers in the FRA Relays Kettlewell (photo: Alex Pilkington)
Equipment
Running, at its heart, is about a pair of trainers, a pair of shorts and a t-shirt. This simplicity is what many runners crave and partly why many of us choose to run.
The weather, the time of year and the length and difficulty of the route often make this simple approach more complex. A runner’s equipment and clothing are a personal choice that reflects experience, ability and general mindset. Suggestions of what to wear or carry (depending on the weather) in summer conditions include the following: a waterproof or windproof top; fell or trail-running shoes; long or short-sleeved base layer; shorts; socks; buff or hat; gloves; whistle; simple first aid kit; food; a map of the area; a compass; and, of course, the ability to use the last two.
A selection of winter running kit
Consideration should also be given to the weather conditions on the day. Always bear in mind that the weather on the top of the mountain can be much windier and colder than in the valley bottom. A long-sleeved top and bottoms should be worn or carried, just in case.
A route that can be run in shorts and a short-sleeved base layer (with a windproof just in case) in summer can be completely different in winter, when the weather conditions can be much more difficult and the visibility much poorer.
Extra winter kit could include spare clothing, thicker base layers, hats and gloves, extra food, a head torch, a survival bag and possibly micro crampons and running poles. These days, a fully charged mobile phone is a useful piece of additional kit; although this should never replace a map due to unreliable mobile coverage and limited battery life.
And finally, footwear. Everyone has their favourite running shoe. Again, your choice of shoe depends on the route, the weather conditions and, of course, personal preference. A good pair of trail or fell shoes with substantial grip should be enough for the routes in this book, most of which are on paths and tracks. All good outdoor shops should be able to advise as to which shoe type is best for different terrains.
A selection of trainers showing the type of grip needed
Navigation
The ability to use a map and compass is essential. There are a multitude of courses, books and websites that can teach you how to navigate safely and effectively. The most important aspect is to be able to understand the information provided by the map and relate it to what you see around you; this allows you to accurately fix your position.
How you choose to navigate is a personal choice. The rise in popularity of digital mapping and navigation apps on smartphones has led to runners taking a mixed approach to navigation. When researching the runs in this book, I always carried a physical map and compass, having been brought up in the days before such technology was invented. At the same time, I would record the run on a GPS watch while running a navigation app on my phone. I found this combination to be the most useful.
Runners should carry an appropriate map, in a waterproof bag, and be able to use it to navigate each route. Many of us choose to carry a phone to record our runs. While phones have improved over the past few years, batteries are not guaranteed to last when running GPS navigation apps, and especially in cold conditions. In addition, they should always be carried in a waterproof pouch.
When reccying the routes, the single most useful piece of navigational equipment was a print out of a digital map, with the route highlighted, which was placed in a polypocket or map case to prevent it from getting wet and the ink running. This was always in my hand. It was easy to fold up into something small enough to carry, and it did not matter if it got a bit scrunched or dirty. Having it at hand meant I often referred to it, unlike the full-scale map in my rucksack, which seldom came out. Frequent referencing meant I was quicker to notice if I went off route, reducing the chance of getting lost.
Maps and navigation aids: a map in a polypocket is simple and effective
Safety and mountain rescue
A runner is responsible for their own safety as they move through the mountains. There are a few precautions that should always be taken to minimise the chance of a small slip or slight navigational error escalating into a larger incident.
First, always carry the appropriate level of kit for the run. It is also important to recognise when you should put on that waterproof jacket or hat and gloves. Many runners on longer runs find that they can keep going the extra distance, while all the time their bodies may be cooling down if the weather conditions are poor. Runners need to be aware of the causes and effects of hypothermia and how to prevent it.
Running regularly inevitably means you are likely to have a small slip or take a tumble at some point. How you respond to these incidents is important in preventing the situation getting worse. To begin with, check you are ok to carry on. Do you need to take a shorter route back to the start? Consider walking for a few minutes to give your body time to settle down; or, if need be, walk all the way back. Consider putting on extra clothing. If the injury is serious and you cannot continue, then consider calling mountain rescue. Call 999, ask for the police and inform them that you need mountain rescue. They will ask you to provide some basic information: current location – preferably a description with place names and a six-figure grid reference; the nature of the injury; and your details. Although phone coverage in the Dales has improved over the years, you are not guaranteed to get a good signal. If your phone reads ‘emergency calls only’, your 999 call will ‘roam’ to another network, enabling you to reach the Police; however, please be aware that no one will be able to ring you back. In this situation call 999 again ten minutes later, so that someone with local area knowledge may be able to clarify your initial information. Also consider sending a text message (which is more likely to work than a voice call) to someone who is able to help.
Remember, mountain rescue teams are staffed by unpaid volunteers who will leave their jobs and families to respond to a call-out. Always consider whether you really need their help. If your smartphone signal is strong enough to send data, a mountain rescue team can use the SARLOC system to pinpoint your location if you follow their texted instructions. Runners can register their phones with www.emergencysms.org.uk, which allows text messages to be sent and received in areas where mobile phone network coverage is poor. If you have an accident and cannot move, blow your whistle six times in succession each minute; this is the internationally recognised distress call for requesting help.
All the above becomes more important if running solo. Before setting out on a run, a sensible precaution would be to leave a route description and estimated finish time with someone, with instructions on what to do if you are not back, or in contact, by a certain time. But make sure you remember call them to say you’re safe.
The weather can affect run times and conditions considerably. Accurate weather forecasts are available from many sources. A good starting point would be either the Mountain Weather Information Service (www.mwis.org.uk) or the Met Office (www.metoffice.gov.uk). The weather in the mountains can be much more severe than many runners from outside the area are used to. Combined with the minimalistic nature of running clothing, it can potentially have a greater impact on runners than walkers. Always carry additional clothing and be prepared to modify your route if weather conditions change for the worse.
Cattle, not usually high on any safety list, can occasionally cause problems in the Dales, generally in early spring when bullocks are let out of their winter barns on to the spring pastures. These giddy beasts can stampede, and cows with calves may pose a greater risk if they feel their calves are threatened. Consider using an alternative route to avoid them. This potential threat is much more pronounced when running with a dog. Dogs should be kept on a short lead, and if the cows approach aggressively, let go of the lead, as the cattle see the dog as a threat. The cows will chase the dog, which can out run them; runners probably not.
Giddy cattle
Using this guide
The forty runs follow an arc from Skipton in the south through the southern Dales, ending at Arkengarthdale in the northern Dales. Most runs are a mixture of trail and fell, with a few runs being solely one or the other.
The runs are split into four areas.
The south-west Dales and Three Peaks
This area is typically mountainous, with some of the mountains being quite rocky. The hills are criss-crossed by a good network of footpaths, tracks and bridleways. Being the most popular area of the Dales, it caters to a wide range of outdoor sports, including running, caving, paragliding, mountain biking and cycling, as well as to tourists who visit the area for the scenery. The area is served by the popular towns and villages of Settle, Horton in Ribblesdale and Ingleton.
The north-west Dales and Howgills
This area is also mountainous, but the mountains are grassier and rounder in nature, while the Howgills are noted for their steepness. It has a more remote atmosphere, and although there are paths and tracks, some of them require greater concentration to follow; additionally, there are fewer signposts. The towns and villages of Sedbergh, Dent, Ravenstonedale and Tebay serve this area.
Outstanding running in the Howgills (Route 15)
The north-east Dales, Swaledale and Wensleydale
This area contains fewer mountains but has excellent running terrain, with some of the best trail-running in the Dales. The two dales are rich in human history, especially in terms of lead mining. While the valleys are popular with tourists, the hills have relatively few visitors. This is especially true of the northern moorland section. Rights of way are marked on the map – although they are often small and indistinct on the ground. A good degree of self-reliance and navigational ability, therefore, is needed in poor weather. The area is served by the towns and villages of Hawes, Reeth and Leyburn.
The south-east Dales and Wharfedale
This very popular area features a mix of mountain and valley runs on mainly good paths and tracks. Wharfedale and its subsidiary valleys display the classic limestone scenery that the Dales is famous for, one of the highlights being Malham Cove and Gordale Scar, which regularly appear in television shows on the Dales. The area is served by the towns and villages of Grassington, Malham, Kettlewell and Skipton.
The Pendragon to Skipton Ultra
Most of the runs in this book can be readily achieved in a day. To provide a stiffer challenge the Pendragon to Skipton Ultra is a route designed to be spread over 1, 2 or 3 days depending on the runner. In this book, the ultra is described across three legs, which are described seperately as Route 19, Route 29 and Route 40. The route is not waymarked separately although sections of it follow Lady Anne’s Way, the Pennine Way and the Dales Way. The route starts at Pendragon Castle in Mallerstang and finishes 85km later at Skipton station.
A linear route throws up challenges in terms of transport, the start and finish are linked by the Settle to Carlisle railway. The start is approximately 4km from Kirkby Stephen station and the finish close to Skipton Castle. The finish location for each leg are: Hawes, Kettlewell and Skipton respectively, all of which have a good selection of accommodation options and shops to re-supply.
Route descriptions
The run descriptions follow the same pattern: an introductory overview containing details of distance, ascent, start and finish points, points of interest, amenities and a brief overview of the route.
The descriptions generally state the nature of the route the run follows, namely, path, track or quad bike track, without noting whether it is classed as a footpath or bridleway. Most of the routes use a combination of footpaths, bridleways, and tracks or paths on open access land. For more information on access, visit www.yorkshiredales.org.uk.
Most run descriptions refer to crossing several walls or fences; this means there is a crossing or gate of some type. Where appropriate, to aid navigation, the description is more specific, for example, ‘cross using the ladder stile’.
One of the many types of wall crossing
Mapping
The 1:50,000 OS map extracts indicate the route, and, together with the route description and gradient profile, should allow a competent runner to successfully complete the route. However, a full map of the area should also be carried.
Times and distances
A suggested time is given for each route, based on a speed of 8km per hour and 60 minutes per 1000m of ascent, rounded to the nearest half-hour. Individual speeds and fitness will of course vary. Runners will know their own speed over such terrain and be able to gauge how long each run should take. It is a good idea to run a couple of the routes and adjust your time accordingly. Factors that may affect the time taken include weather or navigational ability.
Each route is split into smaller sections; on shorter routes these roughly equate to 2km, and on longer routes, 4km. The sections are marked on the maps of each route. Where appropriate, grid references and distances are included. A cumulative distance is included at the end of each section, which was recorded using GPS. Inevitably, the distance will only be approximate, and towards the end of the route could differ by a few hundred metres, depending on exactly where you run. As such, they are intended as a guide only. Routes can be run in either direction; occasionally, the weather, for example, wind direction, dictates one way or the other. The run descriptions are probably the best way to run the route.
Run difficulty
Each run has been given a broad level of difficulty. The grade given to each run reflects the maximum level of difficulty on that particular route, even though some parts of the route may fall into a lower category of difficulty. Due to the nature of the terrain, some runs do not easily fall into a given category. Some runs comprise wide, easy-to-navigate paths with few signposts and vice versa. The more difficult runs include both navigational and route-finding aspects. Broadly speaking, navigational ability is about being able to read and follow a map. Route-finding ability is more about mountain experience and the ability to follow a route on the ground, being able to make a judgement about which direction to take. Where particularly relevant, a comment on safety has been included.
| Level | Description |
| 1 | Well-signposted wide tracks and footpaths. No technical ground with medium ascents and descents. Straightforward navigation. May include short sections of road. |
| 2 | Well-signposted tracks and footpaths. Short sections of technical ground with steep(er) ascents and descents. Straightforward navigation. |
| 3 | Signposted smaller tracks and paths. Sections of technical ground with steep ascents and descents. Navigational ability necessary. |
| 4 | Small paths with few signposts. Mainly technical ground with steep ascents and descents. Navigational ability essential. |
| 5 | Small or intermittent paths with few, if any, signposts. Mainly technical ground with steep ascents and descents. Navigational and route-finding ability essential. |
GPX tracks
GPX tracks for the routes in this guidebook are available to download free at www.cicerone.co.uk/922/GPX. A GPS device is an excellent aid to navigation, but you should also carry a map and compass and know how to use them. GPX files are provided in good faith, but neither the author nor the publisher accept responsibility for their accuracy.
