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© Pete Hill 2007

ISBN 13: 978-1-85284-529-2

Reprinted 2008 (with updates)

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

To my parents, for putting up with it all over the years!

Acknowledgements

As always, I’m indebted to friends, acquaintances and others who have eased the passage of this project through their unselfish help and support. Chris Pretty gets the blame for the original idea for this book, and it is down to him that my family has hardly seen me for a few months. Jonathan Preston and Rob Johnson kindly let me use some of their climbing photographs, and my thanks go to them. Rebecca and Samantha Hill unflinchingly assisted with belaying and climbing for some of the photographs, and both deserve my gratitude. James Hotchkiss helped with a huge photo session on a particularly raw December day, so in the absence of a medal he will have to do with my heartfelt appreciation.

Equipment support was generously supplied by a number of companies, with particular thanks to Frank Bennett at Lyon Equipment (www.lyon.co.uk), Beal for the ropes and software (www.bealplanet.com), Petzl for various hardware (www.petzl.com), DMM for technical hardware such as wires and cams (www.dmmclimbing.com) and La Sportiva (www.lasportiva.com) for rock shoes.

Finally, Paula Griffin once again burnt the midnight oil trying to make sense of my often illegible scratchings, as well taking part in many photographic sessions, and for that – as well as being the perfect climbing partner – I am eternally grateful.

Note

To avoid confusion when describing sequences of moves the use of ‘they’ has been avoided. Where appropriate, the pronouns ‘he’, ‘him’ and ‘his’ are used to refer to both male and female climbers and seconds.

Disclaimer

Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that the instructions and techniques in this book cover the subject safely and in full detail, the author and publishers cannot accept any responsibility for any accident, injury, loss or damage sustained while following any of the techniques described.

Front cover: Jonathan Preston on ‘Probe’, E1 5b, Creag Dubh in northern Scotland