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Introduction

This book is designed to help the Pontiac enthusiast determine authenticity and originality of any GTO built between 1964 and 1974. Each chapter covers a model year, including production figures; VIN decoding information; engine block codes; distributor, carburetor, and cylinder head numbers; colors and trim codes; pricing; options; and selected facts.

If there is one car that epitomizes the 1960s muscle car phenomenon, it is the Pontiac GTO. Like the Mustang, which was also introduced in 1964, the GTO happened to be the right car at the right time. The GTO concept was fairly simple: install a large passenger car engine in an intermediate body platform, but its success was due to good timing; the public was ready for a smaller performance car. Within a year, emulators abounded, with other GM Divisions offering their own versions of the GTO, but it was the original that outsold them all.

For the enthusiast, the most important number for any GTO is its VIN, or vehicle identification number. In 1964, it consisted of an 8-digit number that indicated number of cylinders, model series, assembly plant code, and consecutive sequence number. From 1965 to 1971, it consisted of a 13-digit number that indicated model year, body style and series, assembly plant, and consecutive sequence number. In 1972, Pontiac (as well as the rest of General Motors) adopted a new VIN numbering system, still using 13 digits, but most important, the VIN included a number code identifying the engine in the car. Until 1971, you could not tell which engine came in a particular car. Pontiac stamped the last 8 digits of the car’s VIN on a pad on the passenger-side front of the engine block, thereby “matching” the engine to the car. Unfortunately, it is quite easy to re-stamp a cylinder block with the VIN, thereby increasing a car’s value. (See the appendix for further information.)

The car’s VIN was stamped on a metal plate and attached to the driver-side door pillar until 1967. From 1968 on, the number was stamped on a plate and attached to the driver’s side of the dash, making it visible through the windshield.

Even if all of the numbers match on a particular car you are looking at, especially on one built before 1972, it would be to your advantage if the car is documented. All the better if the previous owner can provide you with the original invoice or window sticker, any service records, or the Protect-O-Plate.

The colors and interior trim listed in each chapter are correct as far as they go. However, Pontiac did build cars in color and trim combinations not listed. As with all the information listed here, be open to the possibility that exceptions can and do occur. It means that you’ll have to work harder to determine authenticity.