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INTRODUCTION

The South Downs are a mountain biker’s paradise. Some of the finest off-road routes to be found anywhere are available in abundance amid the green, rolling chalk hills that comprise some of the UK’s most subtly beautiful countryside. The Downs are criss-crossed by thousands of kilometres of well-maintained rights of way, including an estimated 1,473km (915 miles) of byways and bridleways open to mountain bikers. This vast network of trails can be mixed and matched to create a seemingly inexhaustible supply of route combinations. There is almost no end to the possibilities available to the adventurous mountain biker on the South Downs.

At 160km (100 miles), the South Downs Way National Trail (SDW) is the longest continuous long distance path (LDP) open to mountain bikers in the UK. The entire route can be traversed on bridleways and byways and involves some 3,800m (12,600ft) of ascent.

The ancient chalk downlands of the South Downs roll gently out from Winchester in the west, through the ancient pastures and woodlands of East Hampshire, across the forested estates, heathlands and Kipling’s ‘bow-headed, whale-backed’ Sussex chalk hills, to the iconic cliffs of the Seven Sisters and Eastbourne in the east. The South Downs National Park contains two Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs) and constitutes one of the UK’s best-known and most popular landscapes. The South Downs are located in the most densely populated area of the UK and record some 39 million visitor days every year.

Off-road unicycling!

The South Downs actually contain around 3200km of public rights of way, including the SDW. Many of these rights of way – including the SDW bridleway routes – are accessible to and very popular with horse riders and mountain bikers as well as walkers. At weekends, during school holidays and in the summer months in particular, the entire 160km length of the SDW and its subsidiary network of footpaths, bridleways and byways is alive with people enjoying the landscape on horseback and mountain bike as well as on foot.

The Channel coast from Cissbury Ring (Routes 13 and 14)

Many of the Downs’ bridleways and byways traverse chalk downland, which is well-drained and provides superlative off-road riding conditions for much of the year. However, the South Downs is a diverse landscape comprising many types of terrain, including woodland, pasture and heathland, which makes for a varied off-road experience, whether you’re out for an hour or two, or all day.

When you’re out on your bike among the rolling Downland scenery, it can feel like you’re a very long way from the south east’s densely populated urban landscape of towns, cities, motorways and shopping centres, but in reality you’re never too far from civilisation and there are good transport links to the Downs from all over the south east (see below).

As well as assembling an exemplary collection of graded mountain biking routes with maps and route profiles, this guide includes extensive information on facilities and services available to mountain bikers, including pubs, cafés and water points along the routes as well as bike shops, accommodation and transport links. Biking-specific information on equipment and preparation is also included.

About the routes in this guide

The 160km South Downs Way National Trail is the centrepiece of the guide. Mountain bikers riding the SDW in its entirety approach the endeavour in a variety of ways. Some ride the route in stages at different times and others complete the whole route in one go. Of the latter, some will complete it over several days – camping or staying in accommodation along the way – while others will take two days and some seriously fit individuals ride the whole route in one day. Then there are those remarkable people who do what’s known as the South Downs Double, which involves riding the whole route there and back – that’s 320km (200 miles) – in 24 hours!

This guide breaks the SDW route down into three stages, with ‘how to get there’ information for each leg. These stages provide a good day’s ride for mere mortals and can be combined into longer rides for the seriously fit.

Most people riding the SDW do so from west to east because of the prevailing winds – wind direction is an important factor for mountain bikers, especially when covering long distances and particularly on elevated and exposed terrain. It makes sense, therefore, to describe the route from west to east.

As with all the route descriptions in this guide, special attention is paid to the nature of the terrain encountered as well as the major climbs and descents involved and any particular hazards to be aware of. Facilities and services en route are also included.

The other routes in this guidebook are day, half-day and shorter routes around the Downs. They are distributed along the length and breadth of the Downs, which are divided into five areas. The area sections are roughly analogous with the areas covered by the various Ordnance Survey Explorer maps covering the South Downs (see Maps below).

The routes are designed for maximum enjoyment of the mountain biking potential available on the South Downs, hence there is some overlap and repetition in the use of particular stretches of bridleway and byway between several of the routes. Roads are avoided wherever practical, although in many cases brief stretches of road here and there can link up some great off-road trails.

Trail centres

One of several busy road crossings on the SDW (Route 15)

This guidebook does not include route descriptions for the mountain biking trail centres at the Queen Elizabeth Country Park on the Downs between Chichester and Petersfield, at Houghton Forest near Amberley and at Friston Forest near Seaford; nor informal trails such as those at Wild Park and Stanmer Park in Brighton. These dedicated trails are well worth visiting, especially for those with a fondness for singletrack and downhilling.

Getting there and getting around

Essentially, there are three options for getting to the South Downs. Firstly, if you’re lucky enough to live in this wonderful region you can always bike it. The second option is to travel by train. All the main centres along the South Downs are served by mainline routes from London and other parts of the south east. There are also good rail links between the main cities and towns around the Downs and the stations in between. Journey times from London take from less than an hour (52mins from London Victoria to Brighton) to an hour and a half (92mins from Victoria to Chichester). Connections to minor stations will obviously add to your journey time.

All of the rides in this guide either start from or are accessible from nearby railway stations. There are also options for extending or cutting short rides by means of other railway stations near the routes.

Most trains have dedicated space for two bikes, which is hardly adequate. Bikes can also go in the door areas, but this can be a hassle if you have to keep moving your bike to let people on and off. Engineering works often take place at weekends on the southern rail network, and rail replacement buses do not carry bikes – so check before travelling. There are rush hour restrictions on taking bikes on most lines in the south east, so check these out before making your journey. Timetable information, as well as information on engineering works and on bike restrictions, can be found at www.nationalrail.co.uk. Or call 08457 484950.

The third option is to travel by car. There are car parks at many sites all the way along the South Downs, which can make travelling by car easier and more convenient (car parks are indicated on the route maps). However, the less traffic there is around the National Park the better for everyone, so please leave your car at home unless using it is unavoidable because of time restrictions, engineering works or long-winded rail connections.

Andy Goldsworthy chalk ball (Route 11)

When to go

The South Downs are superb for mountain biking all year round and each season has its own particular charms. Obviously downland bridleways and byways are at their driest in summer – when you can fairly zip along the ridges and enjoy greater traction on the uphills. But the summer months are also much busier than other seasons, especially at weekends and during the summer holidays, and so require greater vigilance for walkers, horse riders and other people out enjoying the Downs. Spring and autumn are that bit quieter, but the weather and therefore conditions on the ground are obviously less predictable.

Winter can be an excellent time for mountain biking on the Downs, as long as you’re not frightened of getting muddy. However, after prolonged periods of rain the chalk/clay soil in certain areas can be transformed into a highly-adhesive quagmire, completely gumming up your bike and making riding impossible. This is no excuse to avoid the Downs in winter, as there are plenty of well-drained areas where mud isn’t so much of a problem. Those areas prone to mud are indicated in the route descriptions.

Safety

Most of the time, mountain biking is a perfectly safe activity and arguably safer than riding on roads. However, rutted, slippery and loose surfaces are frequently encountered and if you take a tumble at speed, you risk causing considerable damage to yourself. Riding downhill at speed is one of the great joys of mountain biking, but it is essential that you maintain control. If you can’t see who or what is coming round a bend, slow down. Likewise, if you have never ridden a particular downhill before and don’t know what to anticipate, moderate your speed.

Watch out for adders basking on paths

Make sure that your brakes are working efficiently and that your tyres are inflated properly (30–40psi depending on terrain, conditions, your weight and so on). Check that all quick releases are tight and wheels are secure.

Wear a helmet and appropriate clothing, carry a first aid kit, plenty of water, some high-energy snacks, a map, compass and a mobile phone. Wear some sunblock in summer. Carry waterproofs in wet weather. Carry spare inner tubes, a pump and basic tool kit. Carry lights if there’s any chance that you’ll be out after dusk (equipment is covered in more detail below). If you go riding on your own, let someone know where you’re going and when you expect to return.

In case of injury or other incident, try to stay calm and assess your situation. If anyone with you is injured remember ‘ABC’ – airway, breathing, circulation (signs of life, blood loss). Make any casualties warm and comfortable and place any unconscious casualties in the recovery position. Try to ascertain your exact position on the map and consider your options for finding shelter, staying put or seeking help. Remember that it may take an emergency team some time to reach you. If you decide to call for help, call 999 and ask for both Police and Ambulance. Be ready to give the location of the incident (grid references, map sheet number, name of the area and description of the terrain), any injuries and names of casualties. Be prepared to supply the numbers of any phones carried by the party; describe the nature and time of the incident and weather conditions at the incident site, equipment at the site, including warm clothing and shelter, distinguishing features and markers at the site, and the location from which you are phoning if different from the incident site.

Equipment

Your bike

Out on the bridleways and byways of the South Downs you will encounter mountain bikers riding machines costing between a few hundred pounds and a few thousand. Your choice of bike is contingent on a number of factors but, generally, how much you spend depends on the relation between your disposable income and your degree of enthusiasm. There is no doubt that a top of the range, lightweight bike with high-specification components can only add to the enjoyment of off-road mountain biking. Better-made bikes also tend to perform more efficiently and, arguably, need less maintenance. However, when components need replacing they are also going to be more expensive.

There is little point spending thousands on a bike that only sees action a few times a year, but for those who are serious about their sport a good quality machine is essential. However, choosing the right type of mountain bike for you is a far more important business than the relative cost alone and it is best to seek the advice of industry professionals (see Appendix C) before buying.

Choosing the right frame size is a crucial factor, bearing in mind that a smaller frame than you would need for a road bike is better suited for off-road mountain biking. Front suspension forks are recommended for the often hard and bumpy flint-studded downland chalk tracks: but most mountain bikes come with front suspension forks as standard these days.

The South Downs are as appropriate terrain as any for full-suspension bikes, although many people prefer to ride ‘hardtail’ machines – that is, front suspension only. This is a matter of personal preference dictated in part by the kind of riding you do.

The steep climb from the Arun Valley (Route 12)

Tools and maintenance

Whatever choices you make about the set-up of your bike, bear in mind that the more use it gets the more maintenance it will require. However expensive or inexpensive your bike, it needs to be looked after. By nature, mountain biking causes wear and tear, especially in wet and muddy conditions. It is important to keep your bike at least reasonably clean and keep its moving parts lubricated. A well-maintained bike performs better and its components will last longer.

In dry periods during the summer months, many paths on the South Downs develop a thick layer of fine chalk or earth dust. Combined with ordinary chain oil this dust produces a highly effective grinding paste that will punish your bike’s drive-train. Using a ‘dry’ teflon chain lubricant reduces this phenomenon.

Learning the basics of bike maintenance and equipping yourself with elementary bike tools is a good idea. You should carry a small toolkit and pump with you while out riding and, at the very least, be able to repair a puncture, fix a broken chain and adjust your brakes and gears when necessary. A basic toolkit including a puncture repair kit, spare inner tube, tyre levers, allen key set, spoke key and chain link extractor can be carried in a saddle pack or backpack.

Negotiating the woodland track tree roots (Route 13)

Helmet

Most mountain bikers wear a helmet with very good reason. The nature of the activity means that taking a tumble is a likelihood at some point. If this occurs at speed you are at risk of serious injury. As well as injuries such as broken bones and serious gashes, a head injury can be fatal or cause permanent disability or paralysis. A helmet may not prevent such serious injuries in some cases, but in others it might.

First aid kit

Anecdotal evidence suggests that many mountain bikers don’t carry a first aid kit with them. Granted that a first aid kit isn’t much use if you break a collarbone – a not uncommon injury among mountain bikers – but there are plenty of occasions where a dressing and antiseptic wipes can be very useful. Downland chalk is full of hard, sharp flints that can cause nasty gashes. All the more reason to wear a helmet. The accident and emergency departments of most Sussex and East Hampshire hospitals are no strangers to casualties with mountain biking related injuries: these are at Winchester, Chichester, Worthing, Brighton and Eastbourne.

Clothing

There is no shortage of biking-specific clothing on the market and specialised off-road gear comprises a significant part of this. With the funds and inclination hundreds of pounds can be spent on equipping yourself for mountain biking, and for the dedicated enthusiast this may be money well spent. However, there are some essentials worth considering even for infrequent off-roaders. Wickable base layers, underwear, mid-layers and top layers can make what is often a sweaty activity much more comfortable. Stopping for a breather in a sweat-drenched cotton top is asking for trouble even in a light breeze. Shorts or wickable undershorts with a padded seat ensure a more comfortable relationship with your saddle, especially on longer rides.

Climbing towards Bignor Hill (Route 12)

Biking-specific waterproofs are designed for a close fit and freedom of movement so as to avoid drag or getting caught up in your bike’s moving parts. Waterproofs should be a ‘breathable’ material – such as Gore-Tex.

Many mountain bikers use the SPD pedal system with shoes that clip on to the pedal using cleats, which provides greater stability and makes pedalling more efficient by engaging the ‘backstroke’. Whether using SPDs, ‘platform’ pedals or other systems, waterproof overshoes or waterproof socks can be useful in wet conditions.

Navigation

Many walkers and mountain bikers now use GPS (global positioning systems) for navigation: a number of biking-specific GPS are now on the market. GPS can make navigation easy and accurate and dispense with the need to carry maps. On the down side, they are not cheap and they are not infallible. For those without a GPS, a map and compass are just as useful for mountain bikers in unfamiliar territory as they are for walkers, although very few of the former seem to carry compasses. Although waymarking on the South Downs is extensive, it is still possible to lose your way – especially in wooded areas – and a compass can help prevent you heading miles off-course.

Hydration

There are a number of dedicated water points for walkers and mountain bikers to use at points along the SDW (see Appendix B), but always make sure you have plenty of water with you, especially during the summer and on longer rides. Many mountain bikers use hydration packs – a water reservoir, usually with one to two litre capacities, with a drinking tube usually carried in a purpose-designed, small backpack. Hydration packs allow you to carry more water than water bottles carried in frame-mounted bottle cages – which are more popular with road cyclists, and can easily be dislodged when riding off-road. Be sure to be adequately hydrated before setting off on your ride.

Poppy field above South Heighton (Route 24; photo: James Stevenson)

Biking-specific backpacks, which are designed to carry water reservoirs, come in various capacities and are usually designed to carry the essentials in internal pockets: tools, pump, waterproofs, snacks, mobile phone, first aid kit, map and compass. They are also designed for a comfortable and stable fit for riding. If you are thinking about acquiring one, consider how much capacity you will need for the kind of riding you do.

Drinking water along the South Downs Way

There are few places where drinking water can be obtained along the South Downs Way. This is because much of the SDW runs along the crest of the Downs while villages and springs are found at the foot. Ensure that you carry enough water with you, especially in summer – when perhaps two litres per person per day may be required. See Appendix B for a comprehensive list of waterpoints.

Food

Carry enough food and/or make certain you can buy some en route. If your energy levels dip when riding it is difficult to maintain output on an empty tank. When walking, hunger can be ignored to a certain extent, but mountain bikers are prey to the phenomenon of gnawing pangs that won’t go away, which is known in some parts as ‘bonking’. It makes sense to carry lightweight, high-energy foods such as flapjacks, fruit cake, dried fruit and nuts, ‘hi-energy’ bars and bananas.

Chalk-hill blue butterfly

Rights of way and other users

Mountain bikers have ‘right of way’ on bridleways (indicated by blue arrows on signposts and gates), on byways (red arrows) and on green lanes. This gives you the right to share the way with other users – always give way to walkers and horse riders. Don’t approach walkers or horse riders at speed from behind or in front. When approaching from behind, slow right down and announce your presence with a ‘hello’ so as not to startle man or beast. When approaching from the front, slow down and give a wide berth or stop and make way for them to pass you.

Waymarking on the South Downs Way

Don’t ride on footpaths: it’s illegal, it can damage paths and sensitive heathland environments and it’s really annoying for walkers. Besides, the bridleway and byway network on the Downs is so extensive that there’s no need to use footpaths.

Waymarking

Waymarking on the South Downs is generally excellent, you will find waymarkers on gates and signposts at regular intervals and at path junctions – where you need them most. As mentioned above, bridleways are indicated with blue arrows and in the case of the SDW those arrows incorporate the acorn emblem which indicates Long Distance Paths in England and Wales. Byways are indicated with red arrows and footpaths with yellow arrows, and these of course are out of bounds to mountain bikers and horse riders.

Although paths and tracks on the Downs are usually excellently maintained and comprehensively waymarked, it’s still quite possible to get lost. Signposts are occasionally removed or damaged; routes can be changed temporarily or permanently for a variety of reasons and it’s also quite easy at times to go whizzing past a path junction on your bike, oblivious to any waymarkers. There are also a few places where waymarkers are not obvious or clear; where this has been the case, or where there is a good chance of going astray for other reasons, it is noted in the route descriptions below.

The other situation where it’s easy to get lost is when you are riding through managed woodland. Forestry plantations are often criss-crossed with tracks that are liable to be changed and therefore don’t always correspond with the map. It can be quite easy to lose your bearings when all you can see are trees. Hence, as well as a carrying a map, a compass is extremely useful: it can save you going miles off course.

Maps

Ordnance Survey provides map coverage of the South Downs in 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 scales (see www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/leisure).

The most up-to-date 1:50,000 scale Ordnance Survey mapping is used for the routes in this guidebook. At the time of going to press, the information on the maps included in this guide was accurate. A note of caution: the status of some rights of way may be changed over time. Most often – but not always – cyclists have been granted greater access rights with footpaths and other rights of way being ‘upgraded’ to permissive bridleways. Older copies of maps may contain information that is at odds with what is included here.

OS 1:25,000 EXPLORER SERIES

 132 Winchester, New Alresford & East Meon – Routes 1 and 4–6

 120 Chichester & the Downs, South Harting & Selsey – Routes 1, 2 and 7–11

 121 Arundel & Pulborough, Worthing & Bognor Regis – Routes 2, 6 and 12–16

 122 Brighton & Hove, Lewes & Burgess Hill – Routes 2, 3 and 16–22

 123 Eastbourne & Beachy Head, Newhaven, Seaford, Hailsham & Heathfield – Routes 3, 21 and 23–26

 133 Haslemere & Petersfield, Midhurst & Selbourne and 119 Meon Valley, Portsmouth, Gosport & Fareham – no specific route but cover surrounding areas

Harvey Maps publish a lightweight, waterproof 1:40,000 single sheet map showing the whole of the SDW (see www.harveymaps.co.uk).

Digital Ordnance Survey mapping of the region is available from www.memory-map.co.uk and www.anquet.co.uk.

OS 1:50,000 LANDRANGER SERIES

 185 Winchester & Basingstoke – Routes 1 and 4–6

 197 Chichester & The South Downs – Routes 1, 2 and 7–16

 198 Brighton & Lewes – Routes 2, 3 and 17–22

 199 Eastbourne & Hastings – Routes 3, 21 and 23–26

How to use this guide

Each of the three day stages of the SDW and the 23 other routes included in this guide are graded according to the degree of physical effort they require. The grades are:

The grades reflect the length of the route, the number and severity of climbs and the nature of the terrain traversed. There is very little ‘technical’ mountain biking on the South Downs, hence there is no ‘difficult’ grade. The ‘hard’ and ‘very hard’ classifications in this guide focus on how strenuous the routes are. There are no ‘easy’ routes included here and, therefore, there is no ‘easy’ grade.

Distances are given in kilometres and metres throughout the route descriptions. The total distance given at the beginning of each route is given in kilometres with the equivalent in miles given in brackets. All distances given in metres are linear distances and not height gain unless specifically stated. ‘Climb for 200m along the bridleway’ means the climb is over a distance of 200m, as opposed to: ‘…ascend 200m as you climb along the bridleway for 500m’.

The total route distances are also broken down into off-road and on-road distances, with the off-road total given as a percentage. These off-road/on-road distances are as accurate as possible, allowing for a few grey areas where there is some uncertainty as to whether a particular section of a route really qualifies as a ‘road’ or not!

The route descriptions are detailed and map references are given where opportunities for uncertainty with route-finding occur. Once you have ridden the routes a couple of times they will become more familiar and you can spend less time with your nose in this book! Like following recipes from a cookery book, interpreting these routes in your own way and indulging in a spot of improvisation will adapt them to your own taste.

Although the routes in this guide incorporate the most up-to-date Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 mapping available at the time of publication, it is recommended that you also carry the relevant OS map sheets. You may also wish to carry a GPS as a further guide to navigation. Should you get lost or want to find railway stations, pubs, car parks or villages that are off the route, they will allow you to see the wider context.