Читать книгу Mountain Biking on the North Downs - Peter Edwards - Страница 11

INTRODUCTION

For the enthusiastic mountain biker the North Downs is nirvana in the Home Counties! Some of the finest off-road trails to be found anywhere in the country are available in abundance amid the green, rolling chalk and sandstone hills and along the steep, wooded escarpments that comprise some of England’s loveliest countryside. The North Downs are criss-crossed by hundreds of kilometres of well-maintained byways and bridleways that are accessible to mountain bikers and which can be mixed and matched into almost infinitely variable route combinations. The adventurous mountain biker will not be short of options in this corner of the country.

Mountain bikers are attracted to the area in their droves from the southeast of England and beyond. Partly this is because of its proximity to London, but mostly it is due to the riding terrain. From chalk and flint bridleways to loose sand tracks and sinuous forest singletrack; rough, tough climbs to seemingly endless rattling descents; the dry and dusty to the wet and muddy, the North Downs are packed with variety.

Lift off! Big air on the Surrey Hills (Routes 5 and 6)

The narrow spine of the Hog’s Back between Farnham and Guildford forms the western extremity of the North Downs, which encompasses the ancient chalk downlands, heathlands, pasture and woodlands of Surrey and Kent, while the iconic cliffs of the English Channel coast between Folkestone and Deal terminate the ridge in the east. The south-facing escarpment of the North Downs is generally very steep while a dip slope descends more gradually to the north. The greatest concentration of quality mountain biking trails is at the western end of the Downs among the Surrey Hills – a true mountain biker’s paradise because of the sheer number and variety of excellent trails, both natural and man-made. The many fine byways, bridleways and country lanes of southeast Kent are less well-known as a mountain biking destination, but are in fact something of a hidden gem – partly because so many riders are drawn to the glamorous trails of the Surrey Hills and the South Downs.

As well as the extensive network of well-maintained byways and bridleways criss-crossing the North Downs, there are also many purpose-built mountain bike trails in the Surrey Hills area in particular. Many of the tracks and trails traverse chalk and sandstone downland, which is generally well-drained and provides superlative mountain biking conditions for much of the year. However, the North Downs is also a diverse landscape comprising a variety of terrain, including woodland, pasture and heathland. These ancient downlands comprise two Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs) – the Surrey Hills and Kent Downs – some of Britain’s most iconic and best-loved landscapes.

The North Downs contains many hundreds of kilometres of public rights of way, including the 246km (153-mile) North Downs Way National Trail (NDW). The Greensand Way (GW) is another long-distance path that traverses part of the North Downs area; much of it is also comprised of bridleways and byways, hence it also makes regular appearances in this guidebook. Many of these rights of way – including sections of the NDW – are accessible to and very popular with horse riders and mountain bikers as well as walkers.

North Downs Way signpost

About the routes in this guide

The routes in this guidebook are day, half-day and shorter routes distributed along the length and breadth of the Downs. Routes 1 to 9 are located in or on the periphery of the Surrey Hills AONB and Routes 10 to 20 are located in or on the periphery of the Kent Downs AONB. The routes are divided into area sections in the guide. The area sections are roughly analogous with the areas covered by the various Ordnance Survey Explorer maps covering the North Downs (see ‘Maps’). As mentioned above, there is a greater concentration of routes in the Surrey Hills and in southeast Kent as many of the best trails are to be found in these areas. Good quality bridleways and byways are a bit thin of the ground in east Surrey and west Kent.

There is no description of a complete traverse of the NDW included here for the principal reason that much of the NDW is footpath-only, hence off-limits to mountain bikers. Alternative routes are too dependent on roads to make the traverse of the NDW by mountain bike a particularly enjoyable prospect.

This guidebook does not include routes for trail centres near the North Downs, such as Bedgebury and PORC (Penshurst Off Road Club) in Kent; the main reason being that route descriptions are superfluous for what are essentially turn up and ride trails, waymarked in some cases and self-evident in others. These dedicated trails are well worth visiting, especially for those with a fondness for singletrack and downhilling trails.

The route descriptions pay special attention to the nature of the terrain encountered as well as the major climbs and descents involved and any particular hazards of which to be aware. Facilities and services en route are also included. The routes are designed for maximum enjoyment of the mountain biking potential available on the North Downs, so there is some overlap and repetition in the use of particular stretches of bridleway and byway between several of the routes. Roads are avoided wherever practical, although in many cases stretches of road (mostly quiet country lanes) here and there can link up some great off-road trails.

Centres

The routes in this guidebook are distributed along the length and breadth of the North Downs. Centres include: Guildford, Dorking, Peaslake, Reigate, Oxted, Bearsted, Chilham, Chartham, Wye, Wrotham, Meopham, Elham and Temple Ewell.

Getting there and getting around

Essentially, there are two options for getting to the North Downs. Firstly, the area is well-served by the rail network. All the main centres along the North Downs are served by mainline routes from London and other areas of southeast England. There are also good rail links between London and the main towns around the North Downs and the branch-line stations in-between. All of the rides in this guide can be started from, and finished at, nearby railway stations and there are also options for extending or cutting short rides by means of other railway stations near most of the routes.

Much of the North Downs is well served by railway links

Most trains serving the North Downs area have dedicated space for two bikes, which is barely adequate. Although they can go in the door areas, it can be a hassle if you have to keep moving yours to let people off and on. Engineering works sometimes take place at the weekend on the southern rail network, and rail replacement buses do not carry bikes – so check before travelling. There are rush hour restrictions on taking bikes into and out of London on most lines in southeast England, so check these out before making your journey. Timetable information, as well as information on engineering works and on bike restrictions, can be found at www.nationalrail.co.uk or tel 08457 484950.

The second option is to travel by car. There are car parks at many sites all the way along the North Downs, which can make travelling by car more convenient (car parks are indicated on the route maps) than by train because of time restrictions, engineering works and long-winded rail connections. However, the less traffic there is around the Downs the better for everyone, so please leave your car at home if you can.

When to go

The North Downs are superb for mountain biking all year round and each season has its own particular charms. Obviously downland bridleways and byways are at their driest in summer – when you can fairly zip along the ridges and enjoy greater traction on the uphills. The summer months are also much busier than other seasons, especially at weekends and during the school summer holidays, requiring mountain bikers to be more aware of walkers, horse riders and other people out enjoying the Downs.

Spring and autumn are that bit quieter, but the weather and therefore conditions on the ground are obviously less predictable. Winter can be an excellent time for mountain biking on the Downs, so long as you’re not frightened of getting a bit (or a lot) muddy. However, after prolonged periods of rain the ground can be transformed into a highly adhesive quagmire in places, completely clogging-up your bike and actually rendering riding impossible. Wet sand can also be detrimental to your bike. See ‘Tools and maintenance’ on how to avoid damage. This is no excuse to avoid the Downs in winter as there are plenty of well-drained areas where mud and wet sand are not so much of a problem. Areas that are particularly prone to mud are indicated in the route descriptions.

Catching a breather in picturesque Peaslake before tackling Holmbury Hill (Route 6)

Safety

Most of the time, mountain biking is a perfectly safe activity and far safer than cycling on roads. Rutted, slippery and loose surfaces are frequently encountered, however, and if you take a tumble at speed, you risk causing yourself considerable damage. Riding downhill at speed is one of the great joys of mountain biking, but it is essential that you maintain control. If you can’t see what (or who) is coming round a bend, slow down. Likewise, if you have never ridden a particular downhill before and do not know what to anticipate, moderate your speed.

Make sure that your brakes are working efficiently and that your tyres are inflated properly (30–40psi, depending on terrain, conditions, your weight and so on), under-inflated tyres are more vulnerable to ‘pinch’ punctures or ‘snake bites’ – where the inner tube is pinched between the rim and a rock, kerb or rut, for example. Check that all quick release levers are tight and wheels are secure.

It is recommended that you always wear a helmet and appropriate clothing, and carry a first aid kit, plenty of water, some high-energy snacks, a map and compass (or GPS) as well as a mobile phone, and wear sun block in summer. Carry waterproofs in wet weather. Carry spare inner tubes, a puncture repair kit, a pump and basic tool kit. Carry lights if there is any chance that you will be returning during or after dusk.

If you go riding on your own, let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return. In the event of a serious accident requiring urgent assistance, first make a note of all relevant details including location (with grid reference if possible), the nature of the injury and your mobile phone number. Then dial 999 and ask for both Police and Ambulance. Be ready to give the location, nature of the incident and the numbers of any phones carried by the party. Do not change your position until you are contacted by the emergency services.

There are Accident and Emergency departments at the following hospitals: The Royal Surrey County, Guildford; Dorking General; East Surrey, Redhill; Maidstone; Sevenoaks; St Peter’s, Ashford; The Buckland, Dover.

Pedal and Spoke, bike hire/shop in Peaslake (Route 5)

Equipment

Your bike

Out on the bridleways and byways of the North Downs you will encounter mountain bikers riding machines costing between a few hundred pounds and a few thousand. Your choice of bike is contingent on a number of factors, but is generally the sum of disposable income divided by degree of enthusiasm. There is no doubt that a top of the range, lightweight bike with high-specification components can only add to the enjoyment of off-road riding. However, there is little point spending thousands on a bike that only sees action a few times a year; for those who are serious about their sport, a good quality machine is essential. A far more important business than the relative cost of the bike is choosing the right type of mountain bike for you – it is best to seek advice from reputable bike retailers before buying.

Choosing the right frame size is a crucial factor, bearing in mind that a smaller frame than you would need for a road bike is better suited for off-road riding. An increasing number of mountain bikers ride full-suspension bikes, which take the edge off the bone-jarring sensations experienced on rougher terrain; a smoother ride also means greater control, especially on downhills and ‘technical’ terrain. Many of the trails encountered on the North Downs are as appropriate terrain for full-suspension bikes as anywhere, although many people still prefer to ride ‘hardtail’ machines – that is, front suspension only – which are lighter and faster uphill. This is a matter of personal preference dictated in part by the kind of riding you do.

Helmet

The vast majority of mountain bikers wear a helmet, with very good reason. The nature of the activity means that taking a tumble is a likelihood at some point. If this happens when you are travelling downhill at speed you are at risk of serious harm. As well as injuries such as broken bones and serious gashes, a blow to the head can be fatal or cause permanent disability or paralysis. A helmet may not prevent such serious injuries in some cases, but in others it might.

Body armour

Some areas of the North Downs – the Surrey Hills in particular – are popular venues for downhilling and free riding, highly technical riding that involves negotiating jumps and various obstacles – both natural and those made by ‘trail builders’ – preferably at high speed. Unsurprisingly, enthusiasts often wear full-face helmets, neck braces and body armour, again, with good reason.

Body armour is cumbersome and unnecessary for the less death-defying activity of cross country (or XC, as some style it) mountain biking, but if you like to take on a few jumps here and there, then shin, knee and elbow pads should be considered.

Full face helmet and body armour on Holmbury Hill – a sensible choice for downhilling enthusiasts (Route 6)

First aid kit

Anecdotal evidence suggests that a majority of mountain bikers do not carry a first aid kit with them. Granted that a first aid kit is not much use if you break a collarbone – a not uncommon injury among mountain bikers, but there are plenty of occasions where a dressing, antiseptic wipes and painkillers can be very useful. Downland chalk is full of hard and sharp flints that can cause nasty gashes. All the more reason to wear a helmet.

Eyewear

Many riders wear sunglasses to reduce glare on bright days, but also as protection from mud, debris and flying insects – especially on fast descents. There are many bike-specific sunglasses on the market, some of which have interchangeable lenses with different colours for different light conditions. Downhillers and free riders sometimes wear ski goggles.

Clothing

There is no shortage of biking-specific clothing on the market and specialised off-road gear comprises a significant part of this. With the funds and inclination, many hundreds of pounds can be spent on equipping yourself for off-road riding and for dedicated enthusiasts it may constitute money well spent. However, there are some essentials worth considering even for infrequent mountain bikers. Wickable base layers, underwear, mid-layers and top layers can make what is often a sweaty activity much more comfortable. Stopping for a breather in a sweat-drenched cotton top is asking for trouble even in a light breeze. Shorts or wickable undershorts with a padded seat ensure a more comfortable relationship with your saddle, especially on longer rides.

Biking-specific waterproofs are designed for a close fit and freedom of movement so as to avoid drag or getting caught up in your bike’s moving parts. Waterproofs should be a ‘breathable’ material, such as Gore-Tex.

Many mountain bikers use the Shimano Pedalling Dynamics (SPD) system with shoes that clip onto the pedal using cleats, which provides greater stability and makes pedalling more efficient by engaging the ‘backstroke’. Whether using SPDs, ‘platform’ pedals or other systems, waterproof overshoes or waterproof socks can be useful in wet conditions.

Gloves improve grip on your handlebars, keep your hands warm in winter and provide protection when you fall off.

All kitted out in Gorsehill Wood (Route 20)

Tools and maintenance

Whatever choices you make about the type of bike you ride, the more use it gets the more maintenance it will require. However expensive or inexpensive your bike, it needs to be looked after. Off-road riding can take it out of a bike, especially in wet and muddy conditions. It is important to keep your bike at least reasonably clean and keep its moving parts lubricated. A well-maintained bike performs better and its components will last longer.

In dry periods during the summer months, many paths on the North Downs develop a thick layer of fine chalk or earth dust; loose, dry sand is also a feature in some areas. Combined with ordinary chain oil, dust and sand produce a highly effective grinding paste that will punish your bike’s drive-train. Wet sand (a problem after substantial rainfall) has the same effect. Using a ‘dry’ teflon chain lubricant reduces this phenomenon.

Learning the basics of bike maintenance and equipping yourself with elementary tools is a good idea. You should carry a small tool-kit and pump with you while out riding and, at the very least, be able to repair a puncture, fix a broken chain and adjust your brakes and gears when necessary. A basic tool-kit including a puncture repair kit, spare inner tubes, tyre levers, allen key set, spoke key and chain link extractor can be carried in a saddlepack or backpack.

Navigation

Many walkers and cyclists now use GPS (global positioning system) for navigation: a number of biking-specific GPS are now on the market. A GPS can make navigation easy and accurate and dispense with the need to carry maps. On the down side, they are not cheap and they are not infallible. For those without a GPS, a map and compass are just as useful for mountain bikers in unfamiliar territory as they are for walkers, although very few of the former seem to carry compasses. Although waymarking on the North Downs is extensive, it is still possible to lose your way – especially in wooded areas, and a compass can help prevent you heading miles off course.

Holmbury Hill, one of the many wooded hills in Surrey and Kent, where good navigation is all the more important (Routes 5 and 6)

Hydration

Always make sure you have plenty of water with you especially during the summer and on longer rides. Many mountain bikers use hydration packs – a water reservoir with a drinking tube, usually with two or three litres’ capacity, carried in a purpose-designed, small backpack. Hydration packs allow you to carry more water than water bottles carried in frame-mounted bottle cages – which are more popular with road cyclists – that can easily be dislodged when riding off-road. Be sure to be adequately hydrated before setting off on your ride.

MTB-specific backpacks, which are designed to carry water reservoirs, come in various capacities and are usually designed to carry the essentials (tools, pump, waterproofs, snacks, mobile phone, first aid kit, map) in internal pockets. They are also designed for a comfortable and stable fit for riding. If you are thinking about acquiring one, consider how much capacity you will need for the kind of riding you do.

Food

Carry enough food and/or make certain you can buy some food en route. If your energy levels dip when riding it is difficult to maintain output on an empty tank. When walking, hunger can be ignored to a certain extent, but mountain bikers and road cyclists are prey to the phenomenon of gnawing pangs that will not go away, which is known in some parts as ‘bonking’. It makes sense to carry lightweight, high-energy foods such as flapjacks, trail mix, ‘hi-energy’ bars and bananas – although try not to take a tumble if carrying the latter.

Fuel stop in Peaslake, Surrey Hills (Route 6)

Rights of way and other users

Mountain bikers have ‘right of way’ on bridleways, permissive bridleways, byways, green lanes and some white roads. This gives you the right to share the way with other users; nonetheless, you should always give way to walkers and horse riders. Do not approach walkers or horse riders at speed from behind or in front. When approaching from behind, slow right down and announce your presence with a ‘hello’ so as not to startle man or beast. When approaching from the front, slow down and give a wide berth or stop and make way for them to pass you (some riders use a bell, but experience suggests that some walkers and horse riders find bell-tinkling mountain bikers irksome in the extreme!).

This is more than a matter of politeness; if you approach walkers or horse riders at speed and/or fail to warn of your presence then you might cause a serious accident. There are already far too many walkers and horse riders with a low opinion of mountain bikers as it is and poor behaviour may mean certain rights of way being closed to mountain bikers in future. For example, a couple of routes in the Ashdown Forest (a large area of open heathland, just to the south of the North Downs) merited inclusion in this guidebook, however, the Forest is closed to mountain bikers because, several years ago, the Ashdown Forest Conservation Board rejected access for a variety of reasons including concerns about ‘biker behaviour’ and because of ‘considerable opposition from existing Forest users’. In this case the grounds for exclusion are contentious, but the fact remains that we are all ambassadors for our sport and for each other when we are out on the trails.

THE BIKERS’ CODE

 Don’t ride on footpaths. It’s illegal, it can damage paths and sensitive heathland environments, and it’s really annoying for walkers. Furthermore, the bridleway and byway network on the North Downs is so extensive that there really is no need to use footpaths.

 Only ride at speeds that are safe for the trail ahead. You don’t know what’s around the next corner.

 Make other users aware of your presence by calling out a greeting if approaching walkers or horse riders from the rear.

 Always give way to horse riders and walkers.

 Be respectful and courteous to other users.

 Choose your route carefully, especially when the ground is wet, to minimise erosion.

 Avoid abrupt braking and skidding, thus reducing trail damage.

 Make sure your bike is safe to ride and be prepared for emergencies.

 Wear a helmet and protective clothing.

Waymarking

Waymarking on the North Downs is generally excellent, and you will find waymarkers on gates and signposts at regular intervals and at path junctions – where you need them most. Bridleways are indicated with blue arrows and in the case of the NDW those arrows incorporate the acorn emblem, which indicates long-distance paths (LDP) in England and Wales. Byways are indicated with red arrows. Footpaths are indicated with yellow arrows, which are, of course, out of bounds to mountain bikers and horse riders.

National Cycle Route signpost

Although paths and tracks on the North Downs are usually very well maintained and comprehensively waymarked, it is still quite possible to get lost. Signposts are occasionally removed or damaged, routes can be changed temporarily or permanently for a variety of reasons and it is also quite easy at times to go whizzing past a path junction on your bike, oblivious to any waymarkers. There are also a few places where waymarkers are not obvious or clear; where this has been the case, or there are good chances of going astray for other reasons, then these instances are noted in the route descriptions. Where bridleways and byways were without signage at the time of writing (spring/summer 2013 in most cases) then this is indicated as: (no signpost/waymarker). Bear in mind that in these cases signposts or waymarkers may have been installed or replaced in the interim.

National Cycle Route Millennium Milepost

Another situation where it is easy to get lost is when you are riding through managed woodland. Forestry plantations are often criss-crossed with tracks and forestry roads that are liable to change and therefore do not always correspond with the map. It can be quite easy to lose your bearings when all you can see are trees. Hence, carrying a GPS or compass and map can prove extremely useful.

Maps

Ordnance Survey provide map coverage of the North Downs in 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 scales (see www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/leisure).

ORDNANCE SURVEY 1:25,000 EXPLORER SERIES

 137 Ashford, Headcorn, Chilham & Wye

 138 Dover, Folkestone & Hythe

 145 Guildford & Farnham

 146 Dorking, Box Hill and Reigate

 147 Sevenoaks & Tonbridge

 148 Maidstone & The Medway Towns

 149 Sittingbourne & Faversham

 150 Canterbury & The Isle of Thanet

ORDNANCE SURVEY 1:50,000 LANDRANGER SERIES

 178 Thames Estuary, Rochester & Southend-on-Sea

 179 Canterbury, East Kent, Dover & Margate

 186 Aldershot & Guildford, Camberley & Haslemere

 187 Dorking & Reigate, Crawley & Horsham

 188 Maidstone & The Weald of Kent

 189 Ashford & Romney Marsh, Rye & Folkestone

Harvey Maps publish two lightweight, waterproof 1:40,000 single sheet maps showing the whole of the NDW: North Downs Way (East) and North Downs Way (West): www.harveymaps.co.uk.

Digital Ordnance Survey mapping of the region is available from sources including www.memory-map.co.uk and www.anquet.co.uk.

The most up to date 1:50,000 scale Ordnance Survey mapping is used for the routes in this guidebook. At the time of going to press, the information on the maps included in this guide was accurate. A note of caution: the status of some rights of way may be changed over time. Most often – although not always – cyclists have been granted greater access rights with footpaths and other rights of way being ‘upgraded’ to permissive bridleways. Older copies of maps may contain information that is at odds with what is included here.

Roughly half of the 250km NDW National Trail is currently off-limits to bikes. However, at the beginning of 2013 the NDW National Trail’s Steering Group commissioned a survey to assess which parts of the trail and nearby rights of way that are currently off-limits could be made accessible.

Using this guide

Each of the routes included in this guide are graded according to the degree of physical effort they require. The grades are:

The grades reflect the length of the route, the number and severity of climbs and the nature of the terrain traversed. Aside from the dedicated downhill and free riding trails to be found around the Surrey Hills and elsewhere – route descriptions of which are not included in this guide – there is little ‘technical’ mountain biking to be found on the North Downs; hence there is no ‘difficult’ grade. The ‘hard’ and ‘very hard’ classifications in this guide focus on how strenuous the routes are. There are no ‘easy’ routes included here and, therefore, there is no ‘easy’ grade.

Splash down! Winter mud – not for the faint-hearted (Route 13)

Timings

Each route description has an estimated time for how long it should take to get around. These timings are a rough guide and the actual time will vary depending on fitness and experience, time of year, weather conditions, and possible punctures or mechanical problems, as well as ‘re-fuelling’, pub or café stops. Allow yourself extra time, the first time you ride each of the routes in this guidebook.

Distances

Distances are given in kilometres and metres throughout the route descriptions. The total distance given at the beginning of each route is given in kilometres with the equivalent in miles given in brackets. All distances given in metres are linear distances and not height gain unless specifically stated. ‘Climb for 200m along the bridleway’ means the climb is over a distance of 200m as opposed to: ‘...ascend 200m as you climb along the bridleway for 500m’.

The total route distances are also broken down into off-road and on-road distances, with the off-road total given as a percentage. These off-road/on-road distances are as accurate as possible, allowing for a few grey areas where there is some uncertainty as to whether a particular section of a route really qualifies as a ‘road’ or not!

The route descriptions are detailed and map references are given where opportunities for uncertainty with route-finding occur. Once you have ridden the routes a couple of times they will become more familiar and you can spend less time with your nose in this book! Like following recipes from a cookery book, interpreting these routes in your own way and indulging in a spot of improvisation will adapt them to your own taste.

Although the routes in this guide incorporate the most up-to-date Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 mapping available at the time of publication, it is recommended that you also carry the relevant OS map sheets. You may also wish to carry a GPS as a further guide to navigation. Should you get lost or want to find railway stations, pubs, car parks or villages that are off the route, they will allow you to see the wider context.