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INTRODUCTION

Askival, with Ainshval beyond from the summit of Hallival (Walk 1)

The wild, beautiful and remote Small Isles lie scattered off Scotland’s Atlantic coast, north of Ardnamurchan, west of Morar, south of Skye and east of the Outer Hebridean isles of Barra and South Uist. To the south-west, the Small Isles’ near neighbours, Coll and Tiree – the Hebridean Twins, lie to the west of Mull. The Small Isles, Coll and Tiree provide the adventurous walker with a fine and diverse range of walking, from the towering peaks of the Rum Cuillin to the dunes and machair pastures of low-lying Tiree.

Many of the routes in this guidebook are coastal walks traversing extremely varied terrain, from rugged, rocky shores and vertiginous cliffs to vast expanses of flower-carpeted machair and white sandy beaches. These coastal landscapes teem with wildlife, and with remarkable geological features, including raised beaches, caves, natural arches, sea stacks and basalt dikes. Many traces of the islands’ histories, both ancient and more recent, are found around these coastlines, from Bronze Age duns (fortifications) perched on rocky promontories to abandoned settlements, mute testaments to the Highland Clearances.

Natural arch north-east of Guirdil Bay (Walk 3, Day 2)

The Small Isles are often referred to as the ‘hidden gems’ of the Western Isles – and with good cause. Although blessed with great natural beauty, the islands tend to be overlooked, literally and metaphorically, by the many visitors drawn to the famously scenic grandeur of Skye, their renowned and imposing neighbour.

The relative dearth of visitors is partly due to the Small Isles having few roads or metalled tracks and visitors only being allowed to bring vehicles by special arrangement. Furthermore, although the islands’ amenities are generally excellent, they are far from extensive. Therefore, planning a walking trip to the Small Isles requires a degree of logistical forethought – just getting here can be an undertaking in itself.

The upside is the real sense of remoteness that is found among the hills, along the rugged coastlines and beach-garlanded shores of these wonderful islands; they are a haven for those who like to get away from the madding crowd and enjoy the peace and freedom of walking through landscapes unaffected by large-scale tourism.

The Small Isles are appositely named; Rum, the largest of the group, is just 14km (8½ miles) north to south by 13.5km (8½ miles) east to west. Yet this relatively small area offers remarkable scope for the adventurous and experienced walker. Given the relative size of the island and the range of excellent walking available, Rum is the main focus of this guidebook, with extensive sections on the fascinating geology, history and wildlife of the island.

When to go

Rain over Canna seen from Guirdil bothy, Rum (Walks 3 and 5)

In late spring, summer and early autumn you are more likely to benefit from mild weather. May and June tend to be the finest months, although rain – often torrential – can be a feature at any time of year. During the milder months the highly aggressive island midge abounds in alarming numbers on Rum and Eigg, less so on the breezier islands. Deer ticks are also most active in warmer weather. If properly protected against rain, midges and ticks (see What to take), late spring through to autumn provides the longest days, useful if you're attempting a round of the Rum Cuillin or when staying at remote bothies. Obviously there are more visitors at these times of year; you're more likely to encounter other walkers, and the bothies and bays are also visited by intrepid sea-kayakers.

In winter you’re almost guaranteed to have the islands’ hinterlands to yourself, but you'll have very short days and wild weather is a strong possibility. But it can be surprisingly mild in winter, thanks to the benign influence of the Gulf Stream, and if you’re lucky you might enjoy some crystal-clear, sunlit winter days. The terrain can be very boggy in winter, with December and January being the wettest months on the islands. Crossing burns and rivers can be hazardous when they are in spate after heavy rain. Before setting out to walk in winter, ensure you are properly equipped and let others know your planned route.

Getting there

Travellers to Scotland’s west coast usually come via Glasgow. Trains from the south come into Glasgow Central. Trains for Mallaig, Oban and the islands leave from Glasgow Queen Street, a ten minute walk from Glasgow Central. (You can catch a shuttle bus or taxi between the stations. To get from one to the other on foot, leave Central via the main entrance into Gordon Street, turn right (east) along Gordon Street, continue across Union Street and Mitchell Street into Buchanan Street. Turn left (north) and continue until you reach St Vincent Place. Cross St Vincent Place here, turn right and follow the left-hand (north) side of St Vincent Place till you reach George Square. Turn left and continue to the crossing on West George Street. Cross West George Street and continue up a slight slope and then steps into the Queen Street station concourse.)

The Small Isles are usually accessed from Mallaig. Coll and Tiree are reached by ferry from Oban.

Glasgow to Mallaig

By train

The direct service between Glasgow Queen Street and Mallaig takes 5hrs 20mins. The train connects with the Saturday afternoon sailing in summer. Take the train the previous evening to connect with the early ferries. Alternatively, it is possible to take the train from Fort William to Mallaig to connect with some ferry crossings on the morning of departure. See www.scotrail.co.uk for timetable information.

By road

Take the A82 from Glasgow (or the Erskine Bridge, if bypassing Glasgow on the M8) towards Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Keep to the A82 until Fort William. From Fort William, continue west along the A830 to Mallaig. The drive takes around 3½–4hrs. Long stay parking is available free of charge around the bay in Mallaig.

By bus

Scottish Citylink operates a coach service between Glasgow and Mallaig, changing at Fort William, taking around 5hrs. Travel to Mallaig the evening before to make the early morning ferry. Alternatively, it is possible to take the coach from Fort William to Mallaig to connect with the ferry on the morning of departure. Consult the relevant timetables at www.citylink.co.uk or contact the travel centre at Buchanan Street Bus Station on 0141 332 7133.

Glasgow to Oban

By train

The direct train service between Glasgow Queen Street and Oban takes around 3hrs 5mins. Except for the Tuesday service in summer, it is necessary to take the train to Oban the previous evening to make the early ferry departure. See www.scotrail.co.uk for timetable information.

By road

Take the A82 from Glasgow (or the Erskine Bridge, if bypassing Glasgow on the M8) towards Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Keep to the A82 until Tyndrum. At Tyndrum head west along the A85, passing through Dalmally then along the north shore of Loch Awe, through Taynuilt and along the south shore of Loch Etive before arriving at Oban in around 2½–3hrs.

By bus

Scottish Citylink Coaches operates an extensive bus service between Glasgow and Oban that takes around 3hrs. Except for the Tuesday service in summer, it is necessary to take the coach to Oban the previous evening to make the early morning ferry departure. Consult the relevant timetables at www.citylink.co.uk or contact the Travel Centre at Buchanan Street Bus Station on 0141 332 7133.

Boarding the MV Lochnevis, Canna

Caledonian MacBrayne operates the principal ferry service from Mallaig to Rum and the Small Isles every day except Sunday, year round.

Ferries and flights

Rum

In summer there is one crossing a day Monday–Thursday, with two crossings on Friday and Saturday. In winter there is one crossing a day. The crossing takes 1hr 15mins direct, 3hrs 40mins via Eigg and Muck and 3hrs 20mins via Canna.

Eigg

In summer there is one crossing a day to Eigg Monday–Friday (no sailing on Wednesdays) with two crossings on Saturdays. In winter there is one crossing a day with no crossings on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The crossing takes 1hr 20mins direct and up to 5hrs via Canna, Rum and Muck.

Muck

In summer there is one crossing a day to Muck on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and two crossings on Saturdays. In winter there is one crossing a day on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The crossing takes 2hrs via Eigg and 4hrs 50mins via Canna and Rum.

Canna

The dramatic cliff top of Am Beannan on Canna with north-west Rum beyond (Walk 10)

In summer there is one crossing a day to Canna on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and two crossings on Saturdays. In winter there is one crossing a day on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays only. The crossing takes 2hrs 5mins direct and 3hrs 55mins via Eigg and Rum.

There are various crossings between the islands on the outward and inward sailings from and to Mallaig. Visit www.calmac.co.uk for timetable details or call the port office in Mallaig on 01687 462403. Bicycles are carried free of charge. Cars are only permitted for residents.

A ferry service is also run by Arisaig Marine, which operates the MV Sheerwater between Arisaig and the Small Isles during the summer months. For details visit www.arisaig.co.uk or call 01687 450224.

AquaXplore operate a fast RIB (rigid inflatable boat) service from Elgol on Skye to Rum and Canna. Advance booking recommended. Tel 01471 866244.

Coll and Tiree

Caledonian MacBrayne operates the car ferry service between Oban, Arinagour (Coll) and Scarinish (Tiree). There is one crossing each day in summer, Monday–Sunday, with an extra service from Barra in the Outer Hebrides on Thursdays. In winter the service is reduced to one crossing a day on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays only. You can also take the ferry between Coll and Tiree, which is a journey of around an hour.

The crossing from Oban to Coll takes between 2½hrs and 3hrs (depending on the vessel).

The crossing from Oban to Tiree goes via Coll and takes between 3½hrs and 4hrs (depending on the vessel).

Check the Caledonian MacBrayne website – www.calmac.co.uk – for timetables or call the port office at Oban on 01631 566688.

Flybe fly to and from Tiree from Glasgow Airport every day except Sunday; flights take approximately 50mins: www.flybe.com. Hebridean Airways fly to and from Tiree from Connel Airport near Oban on Monday, Wednesday and some Fridays. Flights take 35mins direct or 1hr via Colonsay: www.hebrideanair.co.uk, or Tel 01236 780120.

Maps, route finding and access

Heading north-east along the coast of Rum, Bloodstone Hill in the background (Walk 3, Day 3)

This guidebook includes detailed descriptions of 16 coastal and hill routes on these often rugged and sublimely beautiful islands. Some of the walks included here have not appeared in any previous guide: none of them with the Ordnance Survey route maps and detailed route descriptions in this guidebook. These are mostly demanding routes in terms of the terrain, length of route or both. The terrain covered is extremely varied, often challenging and mostly without waymarks or established footpaths. But the rewards are plentiful, as these routes traverse some breathtakingly beautiful scenery alive with a profusion of plants and wildlife and full of historical interest.

Maps

Climbing above the cliff tops at Sgorr Reidh (Walk 3, Day 2)

It is essential that you have the appropriate maps for the walks described in this guidebook. There are few waymarks, signposts or paths of any kind, making accurate route finding all the more important. A degree of navigational proficiency is indispensable.

This guide incorporates Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 mapping with highlighted routes. These should be used in conjunction with OS Explorer 1:25,000 maps because of their greater topographic detail. Do not rely solely on the maps in this guidebook as it is essential that you are able to ascertain your position in the wider context, should you need to abandon your walk and make for the nearest road or habitation. The walks described in this guidebook are covered by the following Ordnance Survey maps:

 OS Explorer 1:25,000 sheet 397 Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna and Sanday

 OS Explorer 1:25,000 sheet 372 Coll and Tiree

 OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 39 Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna

 OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 46 Coll and Tiree

A compass is indispensable and a ‘wristwatch’ altimeter is also very useful for navigation, especially on the hills of Rum. It’s not quite so easy to get lost when walking along the island coastlines, but it is important that you know exactly where you are, especially in poor weather or visibility and if for any reason you need to head inland from the coast.

Access

The Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 established legal right of non-motorised public access over most land and inland water in Scotland. The Act is supported by the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. In effect, the Act means that walkers have the right to roam, but should exercise that right in ways which are compatible with land management needs. Forestry, deerstalking, grouse shooting, lambing and other farming and crofting practices are the activities most liable to restrict walkers’ movements. This is as much the case in the Hebrides as in the Highlands.

Except around Kinloch on Rum there is precious little forestry in the Small Isles, Coll and Tiree. Rum is also the only island with a deer population and, consequently, deerstalking. The stalking season runs from mid-August to mid-February: if you plan to walk on the island during this period it is advisable to contact the Head Stalker, Derek Thomson, on 01687 462030 or 07768 249833. Between March and May it is important to avoid disturbing sheep during lambing. Avoiding interference with other farming and crofting practices is usually accomplished with minimal inconvenience.

Wild camping is permitted but please check the Outdoor Access Code for information about your rights and responsibilities (www.outdooraccess-scotland.com). For more on camping on Rum see Appendix B.

Looking down to Harris Bay from the summit of Barkeval (Walk 1)

Safety and emergencies

In fine weather the Inner Hebrides can seem like an earthly paradise; however the onset of high winds and driving rain can rapidly make the place feel quite hellish, especially if you are exposed to the elements. It is essential that you are properly equipped and are able to navigate proficiently in poor visibility. Check the weather forecast before setting out and allow yourself plenty of time to complete your day’s itinerary during daylight. Always let someone know your intended route and estimated time of completion.

Carry a first aid kit, survival blanket, mobile phone and plenty of food. Wear at least one item of high-visibility clothing. A whistle and/or torch are important for attracting attention in case of injury. Six blasts on the whistle or six torch flashes should be repeated every minute. In case of injury or other incident, try to stay calm and assess your situation. If anyone is injured remember ABC – airway, breathing, circulation (signs of life, blood loss). Make any casualties warm and comfortable and place any unconscious casualties in the recovery position.

Try to ascertain your exact position on the map and consider your options for walking to safety, finding shelter, staying put or seeking help. (Remember that it may take an emergency team some hours to reach you, especially in poor conditions in a remote area.) If you decide to call for help, phone 999 and ask for the Police and Mountain Rescue. Be ready to give the location of the incident (grid references, map sheet number, name of the area and description of the terrain), number and names of people in the party and their condition, any injuries and names of casualties. Be prepared to supply the numbers of any phones carried by the party, and describe the nature and time of the incident, weather conditions including wind speed and visibility at the incident site, equipment at the site, including warm clothing and shelter, distinguishing features and markers at the site, and the location from which you are phoning if different from the incident site.

Heading east along the Kinloch Glen track (Walk 7)

Some of the walks described here are challenging and best not attempted on your own. Likewise, these routes should only be undertaken by fit and experienced walkers and are not suitable for the very elderly, very young or anyone carrying an injury. Only fit, properly equipped, experienced hillwalkers with good navigation skills should attempt a round of the Rum Cuillin – and then only in good conditions. The weather can change very rapidly in this maritime mountain environment. The terrain is difficult in places and visibility can be lost with little warning.

After heavy rain or snowfall many burns and rivers run very high, with a terrific volume of fast-moving water. This is especially the case on mountainous Rum. Do not attempt to cross rivers in spate – if you are swept away your chances of survival are very small. If you're successful in crossing one river in such conditions you may come up against an impassable torrent further on; if you then attempt to recross the river you previously crossed, you may find that it is running higher and faster than before.

What to take

OS Explorer 1:25,000 maps are indispensable (a waterproof map case is advisable), as is a compass. A ‘wristwatch’ altimeter is also very useful. A robust rucksack with adequate capacity and a comfortable harness is indispensable, as is a waterproof pack liner. For day walks, a 30+ litre pack should be sufficient; for longer trips, when you are carrying camping gear and several days’ food, a 60+ litre pack may be required. Effective waterproofs are essential when undertaking a walk of any length in the Hebrides. Weather can change quickly on the islands and doesn’t always obey the forecasts.

Campfire at Harris Bay (Walk 3 Day 2, Walk 7)

Lightweight, ‘wickable’, quick-drying clothing is a must when walking the often strenuous routes in this guide. Carry adequate warm clothing: extra layers are useful when you take breaks. The nature of much of the terrain – on Rum, Eigg and Canna especially – requires robust walking boots with ankle support and a Vibram sole. On Coll, Tiree and Muck, you may find that good quality Vibram-soled walking ‘trainers’ are sufficient. It is difficult to keep your feet dry at the best of times when walking on the islands, so Gore-Tex-lined or well-waxed boots are essential.

Gaiters are indispensable on terrain that can be very boggy in places. Telescopic walking poles are very useful, especially when carrying a heavy pack on multi-day walks. A warm hat and gloves should find a place in your rucksack, even in summer. Sun cream, a sun hat and sunglasses should also be carried from spring through to autumn. Always carry plenty of food, including high-energy snacks, and plenty of water. With the exceptions of Tiree and Muck, there are frequent opportunities to fill up from the islands’ many burns. The water is generally safe to drink; however, take water-purifying tablets if you are worried about contamination.

A basic medical kit and a survival bag should always be carried and a mobile phone is useful in case of misadventure. A head torch is invaluable if you are benighted and can help to attract attention in an emergency; carrying a whistle is useful for the same purpose. From late spring until late autumn it is worth carrying some serious insect repellent (some swear by Avon ‘Skin So Soft’) and a midge/mosquito hat – or net to place over a hat – are useful lines of defence against Culicoides impunctatus. The O'Tom tick removing fork is the best tool for this delicate job. Lightweight binoculars are worth their weight for admiring the islands’ splendid wildlife.

Using this guide

The routes are grouped by island into six sections, each preceded by an overview map. Each section has an introduction covering the local geology, history, wildlife, transport and amenities, including information on the local access situation and estate contacts.

Route descriptions

Each route in this guide is described step by step and is illustrated with extracts from the 1:50,000 OS maps. For each one the route distance, rough timing and the OS map you will need to carry with you are listed, alongside the grid reference for your start point. Altitudes are given in metres, abbreviated to m, for example ‘750m'. Distances along the ground are given in metres, fully spelled out, for example ‘100 metres'.

In the appendices at the end of the book are a route summary table, details of accommodation island by island, and suggestions for further reading.