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Llechwedd Du/Esgeiriau Gwynion

Llechwedd Du (the Black Hillside) is a thrilling sight when you see it towering over the tiny hamlet of Llanymawddwy. It only needs a light dusting of snow or frost on the shattered cliffs guarding its S and E flanks to create a scene of true Alpine splendour. However, just as early morning sun does not necessarily herald a fine day, so the early promise here is not fulfilled. The top is a huge tableland of soggy moors, ridden with peat hags, wet and cheerless, especially when mist clamps down. A narrow neck at 894232 leads to a second top, Esgeiriau Gwynion (cairnless like the first), and by following a fence it is a simple matter to progress from one to the other. Hence this combined entry.

If you have been put off, please read on because, as I shall now relate, there is at least one walk of outstanding merit.

N ridge (AN18)

I had been walking the Arans for many years before I first sampled Esgeiriau Gwynion's N ridge. Many were the times I had seen it across Cwm Croes and rejected it as too featureless and dull. Then, one sunny afternoon in spring, having lunched by the shores of Creiglyn Dyfi and seeking a change from the long trek down Cwm Croes back to Llanuwchllyn, I climbed Esgeiriau Gwynion from Bwlch Sirddyn (AN19) and set off down the N ridge.

Looking north-east over Foel Hafod-fynydd (AN16)

Apart from a short break in the middle, a fence accompanies you all the way and provided you stick with it the going is pleasant and dry and the only decision (which matters little) is where to drop down to the farm road in the valley. So far a walk like many others. The difference lies in the views. Nowhere reveals the Arans in more heroic vein as they stand rugged and wild, tall and proud, across Cwm Croes. Not even the Glyders strike a more regal pose. In sun the dark drama of the crags is leavened by the glitter of Llyn Lliwbran – one of the few occasions when it is enticed out of its rocky lair. To the W Hirnants and Berwyns ripple away in a mosaic of pastel hues, and then there is Foel Figenau, the conical hill directly ahead which, despite its modest stature, delights the eye just as surely as any Sugar Loaf or Tryfan.

Bwlch Sirddyn route (AN19)

Bwlch Sirddyn is a mountain pass and a walk from Llanymawddwy to Llanuwchllyn (or at least part of it) is a good choice when the elements dictate a low-level day.

The Llaethnant Valley approach from 905212, walking beneath the splintered crags of Tap Nyth-yr-eryr (the Eagle's Nest), has already been described in AN4 when the objective was Aran Benllyn. However, by staying with the track as it curves round the W flanks of Llechwedd Du, following it over Bwlch Sirddyn rather than continuing up the Llaethnant Valley, the way is open to capture three of the Arans' outliers. Apart from a sketchy patch near the top of the pass where it is little more than a shadow in the grass, the track is wide and gritty throughout.

The first landmark, 890225, is a fence rambling up the slope L across the stream. This leads directly to Foel Hafod-fynydd (AN17). It is too steep hereabouts to scale Llechwedd Du with comfort, so carry on until you meet the Nant y Fuddai, the first of three streams that come tumbling down R. You could pull up here (AN19,1) to the narrow neck linking Llechwedd Du to Esgeiriau Gwynion to claim either top. However the easiest course is to press on a few more minutes until a fence crosses your path at 885230. You then follow this to claim either Foel Hafod-fynydd L (AN17,1) or Esgeiriau Gwynion R.

The track, meanwhile, leads via the deserted homestead of Cwm-fynnon (883243) and the E bank of the Afon Croes to the road at 895270. Alternatively you can follow a path that proceeds due N from Cwm-fynnon to the farm of Nant-y-barcut at 884263, there to join the road referred to in AN3 (unmarked on the map) that leads up the W side of Cwm Croes.

Bwlch y Groes route (AN20)

Any walk that takes off from nearly 1800ft as this does should be popular – but not in this case. It starts from a stile by a cattle grid at 913233, the highest point on the mountain road from Llanymawddwy to Llanuwchllyn, and provides the simplest way by far to Llechwedd Du. Unfortunately it lacks interest and, after a short spell along a Land Rover track, degenerates into a trackless tussocky slog through peaty bog.