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THE FFESTINIOG HILLS


THE FFESTINIOG HILLS

Once upon a time the little group of hills that rises to the E of what is now the grim slate town of Blaenau Ffestiniog must have been as fresh and rewarding to climb as the Moelwyns, across the vale, are to this day. No longer – now they are scarred beyond redemption by quarries and spoil heaps. Worse still, beyond the immediate desolation lies an unsightly penumbra of rusting equipment, derelict power lines, litter and noise, where the dull thud of muffled explosions replaces the song of bird and brook.

Fortunately the ravages of industry can be ameliorated, though not entirely eliminated, by judicious route selection. Whereas Manod Mawr (the highest of the three Ffestiniog peaks) and its nameless acolyte to the N are most conveniently approached from Blaenau Ffestiniog, you have only to opt for a slightly more circuitous routing from Cwm Teigl for a thoroughly enjoyable day. Similarly it is well worth driving to the top of the Crimea Pass to start the ascent of Moel Penamnen.

Viewed from across the Migneint or from the Rhinogs, when the quarry workings are hidden, Manod Mawr is a striking sight – its squat dumpy demeanour conveying a sense of power. Moel Penamnen is equally distinctive, even inspiring, with a leonine profile that always makes it seem a bigger challenge than it actually is, especially when a dusting of snow adds lustre to the scene.

A glance at the map reveals a generous sprinkling of lakes. Sadly few have survived unscathed to offer the opportunity for restful contemplation. Llyn y Manod is an exception. Despite being so near the centre of industry it nestles in a quiet little hollow that hides it from all but the most intimate gaze, a haven of peace.

As if to compensate for their scars all three hills repay the walker with sound turf and long, lingering views. On a sunny day even the slate tips lose their grimness as the sea shimmers around Criccieth and the Rhinogs blend into the haze over Cader Idris. Late summer is especially evocative with the purples of the Migneit tapering away to the distant Arenigs over the glitter of the rockbound Llynnau Gamallt and Llyn Conwy. Furthermore there is always the timeless grandeur of the giants: the Moelwyns and Moel Siabod so close you feel you could almost reach out and touch them; the Glyders, with Tryfan’s gnarled summit peeping over their crest; the lofty Carneddau; and Snowdon itself.

Note In view of the above comments I only describe the more scenic routes from Cwm Teigl and the Crimea Pass. (The Crimea Pass, 700487, is not named by the OS; it is the highest point of the A470 between Blaenau Ffestiniog and Betws-y-Coed.) However, it should be noted that routes FG2, FG3 and FG5 could all be joined at Llyn y Manod by walkers starting from Blaenau Ffestiniog. To do this leave the A470 at 705444 and walk down the road towards Cae Clyd and Bron-Manod Farm. A variety of paths, some shown on the map, can then be used to approach Llyn y Manod from the S. In addition a quarry track runs from near the middle of Llynnau Barlwyd to the N outskirts of Blaenau Ffestiniog, and this provides an alternative approach to Moel Penamnen.

My routes do not encompass all of the listed lakes, namely Y Drum-boeth, Du-bach and Glas. However, ardent llyn-baggers have only to make short detours from Llyn y Manod to rectify these omissions.


Hillwalking in Wales - Vol 2

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