Читать книгу The Natural History of Pliny (Vol. 1-6) - Pliny the Elder - Страница 449
CHAP. 74.—DIFFERENT KINDS OF CLOTHS.
ОглавлениеVarro informs us, he himself having been an eye-witness, that in the temple of Sancus,2015 the wool was still preserved on the distaff and spindle of Tanaquil,2016 who was also called Caia Cæcilia; and he says that the royal waved2017 toga, formerly worn by Servius Tullius, and now in the temple of Fortune, was made by her. Hence was derived the custom, on the marriage of a young woman, of carrying in the procession a dressed distaff and a spindle, with the thread arranged upon it. Tanaquil was the first who wove the straight tunic,2018 such as our young people wear with the white toga;2019 newly-married women also. Waved garments were at first the most esteemed of all: after which those composed of various colours2020 came into vogue. Fenestella informs us, that togas with a smooth surface, as well as the Phryxian togas,2021 began to be used in the latter part of the reign of Augustus. Thick stuffs, in the preparation of which the poppy2022 was used, are of more ancient date, being mentioned by the poet Lucilius, in his lines on Torquatus. The prætexta2023 had its origin among the Etrurians. I find that the trabea2024 was first worn by the kings; embroidered garments are mentioned by Homer,2025 and in this class originated the triumphal robes.2026 The Phrygians first used the needle for this purpose,2027 and hence this kind of garment obtained the name of Phrygionian. King Attalus, who also lived in Asia, invented the art of embroidering with gold, from which these garments have been called Attalic.2028 Babylon was very famous for making embroidery in different colours, and hence stuffs of this kind have obtained the name of Babylonian.2029 The method of weaving cloth with more than two threads was invented at Alexandria; these cloths are called polymita;2030 it was in Gaul that they were first divided into chequers.2031 Metellus Scipio, in the accusation which he brought against Cato,2032 stated that even in his time Babylonian covers for couches were selling for eight hundred thousand sesterces, and these of late, in the time of the Emperor Nero, had risen to four millions.2033 The prætextæ of Servius Tullius, with which the statue of Fortune, dedicated by him, was covered,2034 lasted until the death of Sejanus; and it is a remarkable fact, that, during a period of five hundred and sixty years, they had never become tattered,2035 or received injury from moths. I myself have seen the fleece upon the living animal dyed purple, scarlet, and violet,—a pound and a half2036 of dye being used for each,—just as though they had been produced by Nature in this form, to meet the demands of luxury.