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Table of Contents

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PREFACE

CHAPTER I THE WRITING ON THE WALL

CHAPTER II PRELIMINARIES

CHAPTER III THE BASE

CHAPTER IV TO GNATONG

CHAPTER V MOUNTAIN SICKNESS: GNATONG: WAYSIDE WITTICISMS

CHAPTER VI OVER THE JALAP-LÀ: CHUMBI: BEARDS

CHAPTER VII TO PHARI

CHAPTER VIII TO KANGMA

CHAPTER IX NAINI: TIBETAN WARFARE

CHAPTER X AT GYANTSE: FIGHTING: FORAGING: TIBETAN RELIGIOUS ART

CHAPTER XI THE START FOR LHASSA: A DIGRESSION ON SUPPLY AND TRANSPORT

CHAPTER XII TO RALUNG: MORE SUPPLY MATTERS: A VISIT TO A MONASTERY

CHAPTER XIII THE KARO-LÀ

CHAPTER XIV NAGARTSE: ENVOYS: DEMOLITIONS: BATHS: BOILING WATER

CHAPTER XV LAKE PALTI: DRAWING BLANK: PETE-JONG

CHAPTER XVI OVER THE KAMBA-LÀ: THE LAND OF PROMISE

CHAPTER XVII THE CROSSING OF THE TSANGPO: A SAD ACCIDENT

CHAPTER XVIII THE END OF THE CROSSING: THE 'CHIT' IN TIBET

CHAPTER XIX MONASTERIES: FORAGING IN MONASTERIES: A DREAM

CHAPTER XX REACHING LHASSA: SUPPLIES: MESSING: THE LHASSA BAZAAR

CHAPTER XXI ENOUGH OF LHASSA: A TRIP DOWN COUNTRY: LIFE IN A POST: TRUE HOSPITALITY: A BHUTYA PONY

CHAPTER XXII THE SIGNING OF THE TREATY

CHAPTER XXIII BACK TO INDIA

To Lhassa at Last

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