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Devilled kidneys

SERVES 4–6

A classic Victorian British breakfast dish, this would set you up for the day – and then some! Of course, it’s great at any other time of the day, too, if kidneys are too hardcore for your morning ritual.

2 tbsp plain flour

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

¼ tsp grated nutmeg

1 tbsp sherry vinegar

1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

1½ tsp Dijon mustard

90ml (3½fl oz) chicken stock

175ml (6fl oz) regular or double cream

25g (1oz) butter

6 lamb’s kidneys, peeled, halved, all membranes removed, fat snipped from core, cut into 6 pieces (3 from each half)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve

hot buttered toast or buttery mash

1. Mix the flour, cayenne pepper, nutmeg and a generous pinch of salt and pepper in a bowl and set aside.

2. In another bowl, combine the vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, Dijon mustard, chicken stock and cream, then set aside.

3. Heat the butter in a pan over a high heat. Toss the kidneys in the flour mix and, when the butter is foaming, cook the kidneys, turning them so that they brown on all sides. Next, pour in the cream mixture and allow it to bubble and thicken.

4. Serve on hot buttered toast or with buttery mashed potatoes.