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47

Soups

CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP

Mrs. C. F. Leyel and Miss Olga Hartley

published their delightful The Gentle Art of

Cookery, from which this recipe comes, in

1925. On mushrooms, the authors write

that if red mullet are the woodcocks of

the sea because of their delicate taste, then

mushrooms might be called the oysters of

the fields, for no other food has the same

rare flavor of these elfin-like mysteries that

grow by the light of the moon, or, more

accurately, in darkness.

The traditional way to prepare this soup

is to make a roux and then mix it with

stock and cream.The flavor is earthy and

warming, and the soup becomes extra

luxurious and ideal for Christmas with a

drizzle of truffle oil once plated. Truffle

was a popular—and costly—addition to

dishes in Victorian times and would have

been used in the Downton era. But truffle

oil was not yet available except in Italian

and French kitchens, where chefs made

their own. So Mrs. Patmore would have

used truffle shavings for this soup, if she

could get her hands on some. If possible,

use brown mushrooms, also known

as cremini, Italian brown, or Roman

mushrooms, which will yield a more

flavorful soup than white mushrooms.

SERVES 6

INGREDIENTS

 cups (. l) vegetable or

chicken stock

 tablespoons unsalted butter

 shallots, minced

 oz ( g) brown mushrooms

or  oz ( g) white

mushrooms, brushed clean

and thinly sliced

Salt and black pepper

 tablespoons flour

 cup ( ml) heavy cream

(preferably at least  percent

butterfat)

⅓ cup ( ml) Sauternes

Bring the stock to a gentle simmer in a saucepan over medium-

low heat. Melt  tablespoon of the butter in a heavy sauté pan

over medium heat. Add the shallots and mushrooms and cook,

stirring continuously to make sure they don’t stick to the pan,

until the mushrooms are browned, – minutes. Add a pinch of

salt and  pinches of pepper and stir well. Pour in  cup ( ml)

of the hot stock and deglaze the pan, stirring to scrape up any

browned bits from the pan bottom. Set the pan aside off the heat.

In a pot large enough to hold the soup once it is fully assembled,

melt the remaining  tablespoons butter over medium heat.

Add the flour and immediately stir with a wooden spoon until

well mixed. Reduce the heat to low and continue to stir until the

mixture comes together as a roux. It is ready when the aroma

changes from butter and raw flour to the scent of baked biscuits.

You will notice a more nutty smell and the color will darken to a

light fudge shade. Remove the pot from the heat and slowly pour

in  cup ( ml) of the stock, stirring constantly to prevent lumps

from forming. (If some lumps form, use a handheld mixer to beat

the mixture until smooth.) Return the pan to medium heat and

slowly add the remaining hot stock, a little at a time, while stirring

continuously. When all of the stock is incorporated, stir in the

cream and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Finally,

pour in the Sauternes, stir well, and let cool slightly.

Scoop out – tablespoons ( g) cooked mushrooms and

reserve. Add the remaining cooked mushrooms to the soup pot

and stir well. Working in batches, transfer the soup to a blender

and blend until smooth. Transfer the puréed soup to a clean

saucepan and reheat over gentle heat, stirring often, to serving

temperature, then stir in the reserved mushrooms.

Ladle the soup into warmed bowls and serve immediately.