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INTRODUCTION

Winter sun setting over the Mediterranean Sea (Route 5)

Tucked away in the south of Spain, in the centre of Andalucía, lies another world. A world of soaring, snow-clad peaks and deep valleys far removed from the crowded beaches of the Costa del Sol. Relatively few foreign visitors to the region venture into the Sierra Nevada – especially in winter, when snow normally lies over the mountains from December until May. It is a very special place.

The Sierra Nevada is not only one of Europe’s most southerly mountain ranges, it also contains the highest peaks in Western Europe outside of the Alps. It is a relatively small range of mountains (90km long by 35km wide) situated in the Granada province of Andalucía, Spain – but what it lacks in size it makes up for in altitude, with over 25 peaks above 3000m. These include the highest point in Western Europe outside the Alps: Mulhacén, at 3482m. From these mountains, on clear days it is possible to view the coast of North Africa some 200km away across the Mediterranean Sea. No glaciers remain here but their effect is marked, with deep cirques and valleys on the northern flanks. By contrast, the southern aspect is relatively gentle.

The range gained national park status in 1999 and covers an area of 85,883 hectares, making it the largest national park in Spain. It was declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1986, in recognition of its exceptionally diverse plant, bird and animal species.

The Sierra Nevada is bordered in the west by the plains of the Vega de Granada, while in the east the mountains drop down to merge with the arid desert badlands of Tabernas in Almería. To the north west the hills of the Sierra de Huétor merge into the dry plains around Guadix and Baza to the east; and to the south the Sierra Nevada drops down into the hills of the Alpujarras, a mix of whitewashed villages and lush green valleys fed by the waters of the Sierra Nevada.

The area is very accessible, being only a two-hour drive from the sun-drenched beaches of the Costa del Sol. Despite this it sees relatively few visitors to its slopes, apart from at weekends and during fiestas (public holidays) in summer, when the locals enjoy the high mountains. That is, of course, part of the attraction. So close to Africa and the costas and yet so wild and inhospitable. The contrast couldn’t be more marked.

There is tremendous scope here for those who prefer their mountains wild and dramatic, as this guidebook will attempt to demonstrate. Yes, it has its trade routes – especially around the easily accessible peaks of Mulhacén (highest) and Veleta (easiest access). Once the decision has been made to venture away from these, and especially during the week, the area has much to commend it for the seeker of solitude – and especially for multi-day wild camping.

The guide describes routes of varying degrees of difficulty, from easy half-day jaunts and day trips through to tough multi-day treks. Although most are high-level routes in the Sierra Nevada, there are some superb lower-level alternatives that should not be overlooked. These include eight walks in the delightful Cumbres Verdes and Dílar valley hills just south east of Granada. There are also five high mountain scrambles for the more adventurous.

Plants and wildlife

The Sierra Nevada has some of the most exceptional and unique varieties of plant and animal life in the western Mediterranean area. Living conditions are difficult for these species because of the extremes of temperatures and weather.

Plants

The estrella de las nieves, or ‘star of the snows’ (Plantago nivalis) (Photo: Kiersten Rowland); the endangered Sierra Nevada poppy (Papaver lapeyrousianum)

Some 116 of the region’s 2100 catalogued plants are threatened, and 80 of these are endemic to the Sierra Nevada massif.

Sierra chamomile (Artemisia granatensis) is endemic and is on the critical list due to years of being over-collected for its reported healing properties. Another endangered species is the Sierra Nevada poppy (Papaver lapeyrousianum), which can only be found in certain areas close to the summit of Mulhacén.

Some of the most fragile and unique ecosystems in the mountain range are the borreguiles (high meadows) – home to many of the endemic species, where 35% of the plant species are not found anywhere else in the world. During the spring you’ll find a beautiful carpet of alpine flowers and the only carnivorous plant that grows in the Sierra Nevada: the Sierra Nevada Tirana (Pinguicula nevadensis), which grows in the wettest areas above 2500m. Depending on snow melt, it blooms in July and catches insects with its sticky leaves.

Probably the most emblematic plant of the Sierra Nevada is the estrella de las nieves (‘star of the snows’; Plantago nivalis), which has a legend of being the flower of eternal love.

The wide range in altitude here results in two major forest zones: a conifer zone, typical of the higher elevations (1200m–2500m), and a mixed broadleaf zone occuring at mid and lower levels. The park is home to such tree species as Salzmann pine (Pinus nigra), Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), and Maritime pine (Pinus pinaster).

Birds

The colourful bee-eater is found in the lower slopes of the Alpujarras from spring to autumn (Photo: Kiersten Rowland)

In 2017 it was estimated that over 60 species of bird live in the Sierra Nevada. Birds of prey commonly seen include the golden eagle, Bonelli’s eagle, short-toed and booted eagles. Many smaller species such as kestrels, peregrine falcons and goshawks are also frequently spotted.

Griffon vultures are common and seemingly dominate the skies from late spring to autumn. The vulture is nature’s natural dustbin-cleaner and does a superb job of clearing the land of unwanted carcasses. The successful reintroduction of the lammergeier (bearded vulture) in a nearby mountain range means there’s a chance you’ll see one of these beautiful rare vultures visiting the Sierra Nevada.

The friendly alpine accentor is found above 2000m and seems to like the Mulhacén summit area in particular in summer. It is mainly resident but winters more widely at lower latitudes.

Skylark, red-billed chough, wheatear and rock thrush are some of the few non-raptors that can be seen, and the ring ouzel visits in winter.

Animals, reptiles and insects

A fine example of a macho Spanish ibex (Cabra Montés) (Photo: Nick Cranham)

Mammals to be spotted in the Sierra Nevada area include the Spanish ibex (of which there is a thriving population, although it is now facing threats from illegal hunting and the fatal disease of sarcoptic mange), fox, wildcat, martens, snow vole and wild boar.

Large solitary feline prints have been seen in the snow at 3000m; Lynx are known to frequent the Sierra Arana just north east of Granada, and while it is not inconceivable that they travel south, locals suggest the prints are more likely to be those of a wildcat.

Snakes including the ladder snake, horseshoe whip snake and Lataste’s viper can be encountered (see ‘General hazards’). Lizards will often be seen sunning themselves on the trails. The ocellated lizard was once traditional cuisine, but is now protected.

There are 270 unique species of insect, with over 100 endemic to these mountains. Most have adapted their life cycles to the extreme conditions; many have become darker, thicker and wingless, such as the endangered saddle bush-cricket.

The Sierra Nevada blue and the Apollo (considered an important endemic species), two of the 120 of butterfly species recorded in the region, are also endangered.

Climate and conditions

Stunning views from Puerto Molina (Route 5)

Misjudgment of the weather tends to be due to the changing of the seasons and the related mountain risks that brings. Traditionally, autumn and spring are the most unpredictable times, as it may be t-shirt and shorts weather on the Costa Tropical, yet people could well be fighting blizzard conditions at 3000m. A fine day on the coast can lead unprepared and ill-equipped people into the mountains.

Strangely enough, winter is more predictable. Most mountain-goers recognise the severe weather potential, and that at a bare minimum it will be very cold and windy. The Sierra Nevada does provide some reliable snow cover in the mountains from December to May.

Summer generally offers fine weather for high-level walking and trekking, when it is possible to travel light save for clothing required for the odd afternoon thunderstorm or cooling breezes.

One of the major benefits of the Sierra Nevada is the stability of its climate. Big high-pressure systems sit over the area for months at a time in summer, and sometimes for long periods during the winter months too. The downhill ski resort is said to be the sunniest ski resort in the world. Winter is the most unsettled and wettest period, though, and when bad weather does come in you can expect it to be generally heavy, violent and short-lived.

There are huge differences in temperature between the various seasons. At 3000m in January and February the air temperature (without wind chill) can frequently dip below -10ºC. In July and August a normal daytime temperature at 3000m would be 15–20ºC. This huge variability – not only between the seasons but also the tremendous altitude differences between the high mountains and the costas – is of course part of the attraction of the place!

Month by month

High on the west ridge, looking back to the peak of Boca de la Pesca (Route 17)

January and February have many cold, clear and sunny days but there always exists the possibility of some days with heavy snowfalls. Temperatures will be at their lowest in the mountains and so these months tend to provide extensive icing together with short daylight hours. Crampons and ice axe, and the ability to use them correctly, are essential.

March and April provide longer days and slightly warmer temperatures. History shows a week of prolonged bad weather during March or April. This late-season snowfall has the advantage of extending the snow and snowshoeing season well into May. Winter hillwalking can be excellent during these months. Crampons and ice axe are essential.

May can provide great snow-walking opportunities, although the snow pack softens markedly after midday. The snows are retreating fast up the mountain now and some routes to 3000m peaks are likely to be clear. There is still some risk of heavy rain showers, lessening towards the end of the month. Some sections of old hard snow will remain at the end of May, possibly necessitating the use of crampons for safe passage. Where such sections exist, notes are given in the route descriptions.

June until end of October provides generally stable mountain conditions. Sunny and warm, this period is especially suited to those looking for hot summer walking under clear blue skies. Walkers can travel light, with water being the heaviest and arguably the most necessary item in the rucksack. It is important to stay protected from the sun’s ultraviolet rays and to keep fully hydrated. During these months the heat can give rise to violent but short afternoon storms.

Showers and thunderstorms can move north from Morocco with plumes of very warm air. These, more often than not, are mid-level or high-level showers with bases around 3000m, sometimes below. The thunderstorms are triggered by the topography and movement over the mountains rather than being surface- and convection-based.

The weather phenomenon known as a gota fría (the cold drop) can occur in the autumn due to a mix of warm and cold air fronts. It is associated with extremely violent downpours, hail and storms, and can see wind speeds of over 100km/hour. Thankfully these are short-lived and not too common outbursts.

The first major snowfalls can arrive between the end of October and the end of November, and further falls in December will generally consolidate the snow pack for the remainder of the winter. In lean years it will be January before this consolidation process has occurred. This period provides very changeable weather and ground conditions: winter one day, spring the next, and back to autumn on day three.

Winter influences

The northern and eastern aspect of the Cerro del Caballo, seen from the east (Route 12)

From the west – fronts come in bringing wet weather, falling as snow on high ground above 2000m. This can bring heavy early-season powder, which usually means great news for the skiers but is not so good for road access into the mountains – nor for winter hillwalking, as it may necessitate the use of snowshoes and make things very arduous.

From the north, north east or north west – when these fronts arrive it will be very cold with overnight temperatures between -10ºC and -20ºC at 3000m. Needless to say the wind chill at these times can be arctic. Snow may fall down to 1000m and very occasionally below this.

From the south – the approach of a southerly front is followed by a quick increase in temperatures, bringing possible rain or a thaw at high altitudes. After the front has passed and the temperatures return to normal, the whole of the Sierra Nevada will become a ‘block of ice’, leading to potentially very dangerous conditions.

From the east – these fronts are infrequent but wet and give heavy snowfalls, especially to the eastern Sierra Nevada.

Getting to the Sierra Nevada

The Sierra Nevada is very accessible and makes a good destination for last-minute weekend or short breaks as it is close to major airports and fast motorway networks.

Airports

Granada has the closest airport to the range, being only a 1hr drive from the ski area, and is very accessible for the Cumbres Verdes which are on its doorstep. Lanjarón, at the entrance to the Alpujarra, is only 45min away. Capileira, in the heart of the Alpujarra, is 1hr 45min away by car.

At the present time (2017) few airlines go there, besides Iberia/BA and Vueling. The only direct flights from the UK are from London City Airport (British Airways) and from Manchester and London Gatwick (Easyjet). These are not daily flights, though, so you would need to check with the airline direct.

Málaga airport is a 1hr 30min drive away with very easy and fast motorway links to Granada and Lanjarón. There is a huge selection of low-cost daily flights available from most major European departure airports.

Almería provides very easy access to Granada via the A-92 motorway in only 1hr 30min. Fewer flights arrive there than at Málaga, but it is a useful destination if walking in the eastern section of the range.

Getting around

The walking section after the initial buttress on the Espolón de Alcazaba (Route 34)

There is an excellent bus service run by Alsina Graells, based in Granada, between all major towns and villages in the area. Bus travel is cheap but takes longer than a car and has only a limited number of services each day, depending on destination. Check www.alsa.es/en/ for the latest timetables.

Car travel between access points is quick and easy, with fast and relatively traffic-free motorways stretching from near Jérez de Marquesado (A-92 Granada to Almería) to near Lanjarón (A-44 Granada to Motril). The beautiful road through the Alpujarra from Lanjarón to Trevélez (A-4132) is well maintained. Allow an hour between these two towns.

There is no train access around the national park, although Granada links to the major cities of Madrid, Sevilla and Málaga.

Summer ski lift

From late June until the end of August or beginning of September the ski area normally opens a gondola and a chairlift above the ski town of Pradollano. This allows you to travel from the town at 2000m to the cool air of nearly 3000m in 30min. The drop-off point is at the top of the Veleta chairlift, a 15min walk from Posiciones del Veleta. Access to the higher walking trails is very easy from here, but bear in mind that many others will be also treading the trail to Veleta and Mulhacén this way. An early start is recommended. Check www.sierranevada.es/en/ for up-to-date opening times and prices. (It’s worth noting that the price for a ticket includes the upward and return journey but only for the same day. There are differing price structures if you intend to camp out and come back the following day. Inquire at the ticket office in Pradollano.)

Bus

Autobus Hoya de la Mora 2500m – Posiciones del Veleta 3100m

This service operates from June until mid September – or longer if demand and weather conditions allow. It departs from the Albergue de Granada, just below the Hoya de la Mora above the Pradollano ski station, and drops off just below Posiciones del Veleta. There are numerous daily journeys. It is essential to reserve in advance: tel +34 671 56 44 07 or email pi.hoyadelamora.cma@juntadeandalucia.es

Autobus Capileira 1436m – Alto del Chorrillo 2700m

This bus departs from the national park information office in Capileira and takes an hour to reach the Alto del Chorrillo at 2700m, making it very convenient for access to day ascents to Mulhacén, Siete Lagunas or Alcazaba. The regular service starts from mid June, but earlier in June and from midway through September until the end of that month there is sometimes a single service morning and evening – although only if enough people have booked (most likely to be on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays).

Note that in 2017 the national park were trying to scale back this service and its furture remains a long-term doubt. It’s absolutely essential that you check times locally and reserve in advance: tel +34 958 763 090 or +34 671 564 406, or email pi.capileira.cma@juntadeandalucia.es

Traversing the hillside towards the valley of the Río Seco (Route 9)

Car hire

Any internet search for car hire at the major airports serving the Sierra Nevada (Granada, Málaga and Almería) will reveal a massive range of vehicles available for hire throughout the year. There are some very enticing and cheap options available – especially during the off-season (winter) months. It’s always important, though, to check the small print very carefully to ensure that you understand what is and what isn’t covered within the rental agreement.

It’s easy, albeit quite expensive, to hire 4x4 vehicles suitable for dirt and forest tracks. Some of the dirt tracks in this guidebook are suitable for saloon cars (and these are highlighted in the text), but it’s very important to make sure your car hire agreement doesn’t specifically exclude forest trails and dirt tracks.

Dirt road and four-wheel drive access tracks

Forest roads, dirt roads and off-road tracks are used to access some route start-points, mainly in the south of the range. In winter these are normally passable in 4x4 cars and only at times when higher snow levels permit. In the summer months, with dry ground, most are passable with care by ordinary saloon cars – especially the track to Hoya del Portillo from Capileira. The worst is usually the Mirador de Rinconada, which often necessitates a 4x4 vehicle.

The routes in question are as follows:

 Route 5 – Hoya del Portillo above Capileira

 Route 10 – Puente Palo for Tajos de los Machos, Cerrillo Redondo

 Route 11 – Peña Caballera, Cerro de Caballo trailhead

 Route 12 – Mirador de Rinconada, Cerro de Caballo trailhead

 Routes 19 and 20 – Casa Forestal de la Cortijuela

 Route 28 – Loma de los Cuartos, Peña Partida (optional)

This is not, however, a definitive subject. As and when local town halls have monetary budget for road reconstruction, the tracks tend to be leveled and cleaned of all potholes, bumps and rocks. On the popular tourist tracks such as access to the Hoya del Portillo above Capileira, this is done annually – normally after the spring rains. Some tracks may have to wait years for money to be spent on them.

Notes are given in the route text where necessary, but it is advisable to ask locally before you arrive. There are some 4x4 services locally that will transport you (for a fee) to or from the trailheads; this is especially useful for some of the end-to-end, linear walks.

For transport to the above routes (and free advice on state of the track), email info@spanishhighs.co.uk; for access from Nigüelas to Mirador de Rinconada (Route 12) in an eight-seater Land Rover, tel +34 696 710 769.

Accommodation and bases

Looking back from the main summit of Boca de la Pesca to the second summit and ascent route (Route 15)

Accommodation in towns and cities

The internet is awash with accommodation choices, from high-quality hotels to budget hostels and camping. There’s something to suit all pockets. It is not the intention of this guide to name or recommend hotels, hostels and villas; the best advice is to visit www.booking.com, www.hotels.com or www.tripadvisor.com, where you’ll find a wealth of information and reviews to suit every budget and requirement.

In the following area summaries, timings indicate length of journey by car.

Granada area

Granada is extremely convenient for the Cumbres Verdes and Dílar valley routes (20min; Routes 13–20), the ski area/Hoya de la Mora (30min; Routes 21–24) and the Vereda de Estrella trailhead (40min; Routes 25–28). Some hotels alongside the main ski road to the Sierra Nevada provide good and higher alternatives to the city if you intend to do some walks from this side.

The Alpujarras

This area is very close to the southern approaches and trailheads into the range, and there is a good range of hotel, apartment and villa accommodation in most towns and villages.

The town of Lanjarón – Puerta de la Alpujarra (‘Door to the Alpujarra’) – is just 10min from the main A-44 Granada to Motril motorway, and is useful for the Cerro del Caballo (Routes 11 and 12) and access to Puente Palo (Route 10). It is also a spa town, so plenty of treatments are available to soothe your aching limbs after completing the Tres Miles Integral (Route 31)! Órgiva is a further 15min drive away.

You need to travel further into the Alpujarras if you prefer smaller towns and villages and/or wish to get closer to the majority of the routes in this guide that start from the south. The three ‘white villages’ of the Poqueira gorge – Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira – cling to the hillsides below Mulhacén and provide close access to plenty of routes. Allow an hour for the journey to these villages from the A-44 Granada to Motril motorway exit for Lanjarón.

Trevélez is a further 20min along the road, passing through Pitres, Pórtugos and Busquístar. Below the road, the delightful and sleepy villages in the Taha de Pitres, consisting of Mecina, Fondales and Ferrierola, can provide a very relaxing place to rest after the rigours of the mountains. Trevélez itself is a substantial tourist town and has good accommodation options. Trevélez is a start-point for ascents to Siete Lagunas, Mulhacén, Alcazaba and excursions up the Río Trevélez.

Bear in mind that this is still a very traditional area so most towns will have at least one major annual fiesta during the year. At fiesta time accommodation will be difficult if not impossible to find so should be booked well in advance.

Many hotels in the Alpujarras shut down for winter and can be closed from the end of autumn until just before Easter. Some will just close for January and others will close for Christmas and New Year, when family becomes more important than paying guests. Bear this in mind when planning a winter visit.

NOTABLE FIESTAS

 Trevélez – Fiesta of San Antonio (13 and 14 June); Saint Benedict (11 July); Mulhacén pilgrimage to the Virgen de las Nieves (5 August); cattle show (19 and 20 October).

 Capileira – Fiesta de la Virgen de la Cabeza (last Sunday in April); also a second fiesta for the same saint during the second week in August; romería (pilgrimage) to Mulhacén (5 August); Fiesta de la Castaña (beginning of November).

 Órgiva – San Sebastian (20 January); procession on Maundy Thursday; Fería Hecho en la Alpujarra (Holy Week); Fiesta Virgen de la Fe (14 June); Fería Grande (end of September).

 Lanjarón – Fiesta de San Juan (around 21–25 June) – carnivals, processions and the world’s biggest water fight!

Jérez del Marquesado

There’s not too much in the way of accommodation in Jerez del Marquesado – just a couple of hostels – but the major town of Guadix is just 30min up the motorway towards Granada.

Campsites

Most towns in the region have official campsites nearby. These have organised facilities and are somewhat ‘luxurious’. Not all are open year-round so it’s advisable to check locally. (See Appendix B.) In addition, tents can become rather too hot for comfort in the long hot summers – and conversely, very cold in the winter months when valley temperatures can drop below freezing.

Guarded refuges

Refugio Poqueira in the depths of winter

There are two guarded refuges in the range: Refugio Poqueira, which is open all year, and Refugio Postero Alto whose opening depends on the season. See Appendix B for further details.

Reciprocal rights at the guarded refuges

Major alpine clubs have reciprocal rights for reduced overnight and meal fees. These include the Federación Andaluza de Montanismo, Austrian Alpine Club, Deutscher Alpenverein, Club Alpin Français, Italian Alpine Club and Club Alpin Swiss. A full list can be found on the Refugio Poqueira website: www.refugiopoqueira.com/tarifas-refugio-2015/

The affiliations normally run for a calendar year and are very good value. On showing your affiliated card, the price of a night’s accommodation at the Refugio Poqueira hut is substantially reduced. Note that the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) does not have reciprocal rights with Andalucian refuges.

Refugio de Poqueira (Routes 6, 7, 8, 9, 32)

An excellent guarded refuge with 85 beds open all year and an excellent meal service, it lies on a small plateau at 2500m just south east of the Río Mulhacén. It is affiliated to the Federación Andaluza de Montañismo and has reciprocal rights with the major European alpine clubs. It’s essential to reserve well in advance.

Normal winter access is recommended from Capileira (Cebadilla Eléctrica) and via the more sheltered Barranco de Poqueira. Early or late season access in calm conditions can also be made from the acequias (irrigation channel) route or from the Hoya del Portillo.

The Refugio Poqueira website (www.refugiopoqueira.com) gives a very useful weekly report on the status of the unguarded refugios Vivac La Caldera and Villavientos, along with important information about the current snow and mountain conditions.

Refugio Postero Alto (Routes 29, 31)

This refuge makes a very convenient start-point and is ideally placed to access the first northerly 3000m+ peaks of the Sierra Nevada. It lies at the foot of the Picón de Jérez at 1900m and is good for accessing Barranco del Alhorí, the northern Sierra Nevada, and indeed the ‘Los Tres Miles’ Integral (Route 31).

The refuge is open at weekends and during fiesta holidays (Easter, Christmas, New Year); otherwise there’s a winter quarters that is always open and available. Facilities include a canteen, bar, hot water plus heating in all rooms. Sleeps 64.

It’s affiliated to the Federación Andaluza de Montañismo, which has reciprocal rights with the major European alpine clubs (see above). Reservation in advance is essential and can be done online at www.refugioposteroalto.es/reservar/

A useful service offering transfers from Jérez del Marquesado to the refuge in 4WD vehicles has recently started: www.refugioposteroalto.es/traslados-en-4x4/

Unguarded refuges

Refugio Elorrieta; Refugio Peña Partida; Refugio Cucaracha (Photo: Victoria Bocanegra Montañes); Refugio Cebollar

These are simple shelters and sleeping arrangements are basic. They are possibly most useful in the winter months when you’re carrying the extra weight of winter equipment. The more modern and populated ones have elevated wooden boards to sleep on, and at worst you’ll have to sleep on a concrete floor. Take an insulated sleeping mat and sleeping bag, along with a stove, food and fuel. Nearby water sources are indicated below, but in winter months snow for melting is usually close to hand. Make sure you overestimate the amount of fuel required to melt snow.

There is no booking system in place for these refuges: they operate on a first come, first served basis. Bear this in mind on Friday and Saturday evenings throughout the year, when the popular refuges (Carihuela, Caldera, Refugio Forestal de Loma Pela and Caballo) will get busy with locals. On these nights you can expect late arrivals, with locals having finished work earlier in the day. Try to remain calm as they chat, eat, drink and snore their way through the night. Some good ear plugs are advised!

Many of the unguarded refuges hold a lot of history, dating back to Franco’s early days and a plan to reforest the Sierra Nevada. There are actually many more refuges hidden away, but many of these are uninhabitable or in complete ruin.

The refuges below are listed in the order that they appear in this guide. For grid references and additional details, see Appendix B.

Refugio Horcajo (Route 3)

Situated at 2220m, 3hr from Trevélez above the Río Trevélez junction with the Río Juntillas and Río Puerto de Jérez. Sleeps 8 on concrete floors. The refuge is in a reasonable state, with water available close by from Barranco del Sabinar.

Refugio Vivac La Caldera (Routes 6, 7, 8, 23, 31, 35, 36)

Located at 3100m just east of Laguna de la Caldera, west of Mulhacén, this refuge is useful for access to Mulhacén, Alcazaba and Puntal de la Caldera. Sleeps 16. It’s in a good state with wooden boards for sleeping on. Water can be accessed at the lake of the same name just west of the refuge.

Refugio Forestal Loma Pela (also known as Refugio Villavientos)

On the south side of Loma Pelada, at an altitude of 3090m, this is useful for access to Mulhacén, Alcazaba and Puntal de la Caldera. The refuge is in a very good state and makes a convenient alternative to Refugio Caldera on busy weekends. Sleeps 8. The only downside is that there is no water source close by, so all water must be carried in.

Refugio Forestal Loma de Cañar (Cebollar) (Route 10)

Situated at 2500m on a beautiful alpine meadow, this refuge has its own spring close by that never seems to dry up. It’s worth a visit and an overnight stay if possible. The refuge itself is a bit rough but reasonably comfortable – although the roof does leak a bit. Sleeps 10. Good for an ascent of Tajos de los Machos or a winter outing thereabouts.

Refugio de Ventura (Routes 11, 24, 31)

At the top edge of the forest by the path descending from Cerro del Caballo, the building is partially ruined and should only be used in an emergency, as it’s only an hour to a road trailhead or a 3hr walk down to Lanjarón. There is no convenient water source.

Refugio del Caballo (Routes 11, 24, 31)

This one-room bivouac hut takes the form of a small, semi-cylindrical domed shelter and is located at an altitude of 2860m next to the Laguna del Caballo at the base of the north east face of Cerro del Caballo. Sleeps 8. In the summer of 2011 the ‘Acción Sierra Nevada’ initiative (www.accionsierranevada.org) installed a door, painted the inside, put in a window and cleaned the refuge from top to bottom. Work to the roof in 2014 has improved it as a suitable winter shelter. The lake a few metres west meets all water requirements.

Refugio Elorrieta (Routes 21, 24, 31)

The Elorrieta Refuge is located at 3197m, south west of the Tajos de la Virgen ridge. It was built between 1931 and 1933 and named in honour of the Director General Octavio Elorrieta. It was the most ambitious of a network of shelters created in the 1930s in the Lanjarón river valley. It originally had central heating, water, and power for lighting. It consists of two parts: a domed outside shelter and another series of galleries and tunnels dug out of the rock. However, the annual seasonal temperature extremes have taken their toll, and the roof is in particularly bad shape. Time and vandalism have done the rest. It was partially rebuilt in the 1960s but is now once again in a dismal state. It can nevertheless be useful for shelter from inclement weather.

Refugio Vivac La Carihuela (Routes 22, 23, 31, 32)

Situated at 3200m on the col (Collado de Carihuela) south of Veleta, this refuge is in a very good state with wooden bunks and a table. Sleeps 16. It’s especially useful in winter or during a summer traverse of Los Tres Miles. In early summer water may be found by dropping down the road to the east to melting snow streams dripping from rocks; in late summer an excursion to Laguna de Aguas Verdes may have to be undertaken.

Refugio Forestal La Cucaracha (Routes 25, 28)

Located at 1800m on the Cuesta del Calvario above the Río Genil, and given a makeover in 2014, this part-ruin provides adequate winter shelter and is useful for ski touring on the northern peaks. Sleeps 15–20. Access is from Güéjar Sierra and Vereda de Estrella. Water can be found at Fuente de los Lirios (10min south west down towards the river from the refuge – but remember there’s a 15–20min climb back!).

Refugio Peña Partida (Route 28)

This refuge lies at 2451m on the eastern shoulder of Loma de los Cuartos above the town of Güéjar Sierra. High snow level or a 4WD car is required to access Loma de los Cuartos to a car parking space with a chain across the track. It’s a 2hr walk from here. The refuge is in a good state of repair, with magnificent views to the northern faces of the Sierra Nevada. Wooden sleeping platforms were installed as part of a 2015 restoration. Sleeps 6; water can be found at a small natural spring 300m south east of the refuge at the upper end of Barranco de Peña Partida.

NATURAL SHELTERS

There are natural shelters and caves at:

 Cueva Secreta, 1780m, lower Valdeinfiernos valley, Genil (grid reference 709 052)

 Refugio ‘Natural’ Siete Lagunas, 2870m, next to Laguna Hondera where there are natural shelters and walls (grid reference 740 004). A shovel may be required in winter.

Respecting the environment

Spectacular lenticular clouds over Mulhacén (Route 21)

The Sierra Nevada gained national park status in 1999. Most of the zone to which this guide relates is within the national park boundaries. It is a very special place and it is therefore important that visitors treat it with great respect.

 You do not need to obtain authorisation for climbing and mountaineering in the high mountains.

 You do not need permission to use the unguarded refuges, but please take all litter away with you, leave the place in as clean a state as possible and close the door and windows so that snow does not enter.

It goes without saying that you should not:

 make fires

 feed the wildlife

 disturb the tranquility of nature

 go hunting or fishing

 leave any type of discharge in water sources, rivers or lakes

 allow dogs off-leash

 collect plants, minerals or rocks.

Remember that the ‘borreguiles’ (high meadows) are a highly sensitive environment; shelters and walls for a bivouac should be made well outside the green lakeside locations as they can cause irreparable damage to the unique flora and fauna of these places.

The Sierra Nevada National Park authority can be contaced at Ctra. Antigua de Sierra Nevada, Km 7, 18191 Pinos Genil, tel +34 958 026300, email pn.snevada.cma@juntadeandalucia.es

NATIONAL PARK CAMPING GUIDELINES

Camping is allowed in the national park but there are rules and restrictions. An overnight bivouac is permitted using a bivouac bag or lightweight tent. The following rules apply to small groups of three or fewer tents (max 15 persons); larger groups should apply to the national park authority (see above). You should notify the national park office of your intention to camp by post or email.

 You can only set up a tent one hour before sunset and it must be taken down within one hour of sunrise.

 You can only stay one night in the same place.

 You can only camp above 1600m. In summer this rises to above the tree line (about 2200m) due to fire risk.

 Leave no trace and take all rubbish out with you.

You must not camp:

 within 500m of a guarded refuge or public vehicle track

 within 1km of a tarmac road

 within 50m of a mountain lake or river

 on private property without written permission from the owner.

Safety and rescue

The following points are intended as reminders for staying safe in the mountains.

Check the weather forecast: consult online weather resources such as AEMET (www.aemet.es/en/) and the Sierra Nevada ski pages (www.sierranevada.es/en/), looking out for wind gust speeds at your intended altitude. Temperatures both the night before and on the day of your climb will indicate likely ground conditions (ice, soft snow etc) and also the likely wind chill factor.

Dress accordingly: take spare clothing – the extra weight will be well worth it when the clouds come in and winds increase. In winter, pack a down jacket and extra gloves, even on the best of days.

Take a fully charged mobile phone with you: this is absolutely essential in case you get into difficulty and need the rescue services. Remember that cold affects battery life/performance – consider carrying a spare battery.

Dial 112 to contact the emergency services. There is good coverage around the ski area, variable coverage on the major summits and elsewhere. In sheltered northern valleys there will be none. Remember that even if your mobile is showing zero or little signal strength, it may be possible to connect to emergency services via 112. The Delorme InReach satellite text system is useful in these mountains as a form of communication when mobile phone service doesn’t exist.

Don’t bite off more than you can chew! Your intended route should be well within your capability and experience – especially in winter above the snow line. Be prepared to change your plan as mountain conditions change; familiarise yourself with the quickest escape route and the location of refuges/shelters that could be utilised if required.

Approaching Collado de Vacares, with Alcazaba behind (Route 28)

Take a map and compass: standalone GPS devices can be very useful, but don’t rely on a smartphone GPS as battery capability will be limited in very cold temperatures. Always carry a sheet map and compass.

Take crampons and ice axe: if you’re heading above the snow line, crampons and ice axe (and the ability to use them) are essential. There are plenty of basic winter skills courses in the Sierra Nevada and the UK that will give you sufficient training and confidence to take modest steps into the mountains during winter. See www.spanishhighs.co.uk for details.

Inform people of your route: make sure you tell somebody your intended route and what time you intend to be back.

Assess the risk of avalanche: check with the Sierra Nevada ski area (www.sierranevada.es/en/) and/or Refugio Poqueira (www.refugiopoqueira.com). See also ‘Winter hazards’, below.

‘The mountains will always be there, the trick is to make sure you are too.’

Hervey Voge

‘Mountains have a way of dealing with over-confidence.’

Herman Buhl

General hazards

Underestimating the Sierra Nevada

In benign summer mode with its hot sun, clear skies, easy access and closeness to the fleshpots of the Costa del Sol, it’s easy to underestimate the scale of the Sierra Nevada; but these are high mountains, and distances both in vertical metres and horizontal kilometres are great. Take away the easy access and settled, stable weather and it’s a long way home! Many underestimate these hills each year, thus adding to the accident statistics. The Sierra Nevada needs to be treated with the utmost respect.

Falling

Common-sense precautions against falls – both of humans and of rocks from above – should be taken on all routes. In addition, helmet, harness and rope are advised for security on all of the high mountain scrambles – with the possible exception of Route 21 (Tajos de la Virgen ridge), where there are only a couple of simple scrambling sections and no danger of rockfall. A helmet would also be advisable on Route 8 (Vasar de Mulhacén) to protect from any falling rocks.

Dehydration

Here more than anywhere it is vital to keep hydrated. The intense sun and high altitudes combine to suck water out of the body. In summer make sure you carry a minimum of three litres of water, and make sure you drink on a regular basis.

Altitude

These mountains have much high ground over 3000m. That and the fact that is is possible to ascend 2000m in a car in 30 mins mean that the effects of altitude can be felt. However, they are generally quite mild with shortness of breath and perhaps a slight headache. As always, the general advice is to go slow, especially on leaving the high car parks. Within an hour breathing should have eased and the body adjusted somewhat.

The sun

At all times of the year, sun and lip cream are necessary. In the summer months a sun hat covering the back of the neck is recommended. Many people prefer to walk the high hills in summer wearing t-shirt and shorts; due to the prickly nature of the vegetation, the sharp loose rock and the risk of sunburn to uncovered parts of the body, it is advisable to cover up with long trousers and sleeves.

Foxes

A Sierra Nevada fox at Collado de Carihuela (Photo: Sarah O’Toole)

Spanish foxes – at least in the Sierra Nevada – are not like English solitary foxes as they have been known to work in groups. If you’re camping out, they will come at night to take your food, putting their heads under the side of your tent to grab anything they can find, especially if you keep items in plastic bags. If it’s not food, it will be discarded nearby. If it is, you won’t see it again.

They are a particular problem at the more utilised camping and bivouac sites, even in the depths of mid-winter. Siete Lagunas, Laguna del Caballo, around the vicinity of Refugio Carihuela and at Laguna de la Caldera seem to be the worst locations, but they have also been encountered at Collado de Vacares and Laguna de Juntillas in the far north of the range.

In the summer months the presence of a dog will deter, but this is often not possible for those on a walking or hiking holiday. Another option is to use an anti-fox beacon: this innovative and humane deterrent detects body heat, and once triggered it releases bursts of ultrasound, resulting in the fox retreating. FOXWatch (www.conceptresearch.co.uk) produce one. Otherwise, unless you stay in a fox-proof hut, you have to accept fox raids as a possible natural part of mountain life in the Sierra Nevada.

Don’t try zipping up your tent to keep them out; they will just claw their way in and leave your tent in tatters. Let them come in and see there’s nothing to take. Tie your pack to yourself so they can’t pull it out of the tent. Better still, bury food outside under rocks and put boots inside your rucksack. Accept that you will be woken up and don’t let it worry you; they’re unlikely to hurt you. Be grateful you’re not camping in bear country! If you’re careful, you won’t lose anything of value.

Snakes

There are two main poisonous snakes in the region. Lataste’s viper is usually found between 800m and 2800m; adults are normally less than 60cm in length and have a snub nose. The Montpellier snake can be found anywhere up to 2150m altitude and can grow to 240cm/3kg. Its teeth are set at the back of its top jaw, so you would have to be manhandling the snake in order to be bitten. Like most snakes, both of these species will be more eager to get away from you than vice versa – provided you give them a wide berth and treat them with respect. However, their bites are not considered serious for most healthy people.

Pine processionary caterpillars

These harmless-looking caterpillars (which turn into moths) can be very dangerous to humans and pets. When disturbed, the caterpillars shed their fine harpoon-shaped hairs, which cause itchy rashes and breathing problems. (Just sitting under a tree that contains a nest can cause a rash.) Some people can have severe allergic reactions.

The caterpillars are a big problem in Spain’s pine forests. It was once thought that they killed trees, but studies have shown they do not attack a tree after it has been weakened; they leave it to recover and start again once it’s strong enough. Danger time is normally in the spring but can be earlier in mild winters, when the caterpillars leave their nests to find suitable ground to pupate.

Electrical storms

These are a common occurrence in late spring and autumn but are rare in winter. Sufficient warning is usually posted on the AEMET website (www.aemet.es/en/).

Wildfires

Andalucía has a very high incidence of forest wildfires, especially between the beginning of May and the end of October. One particularly large wildfire in 2005 above Lanjarón destroyed over 8000 hectares of the National Park. Please exercise the utmost caution, even outside of these high risk dates.

Winter hazards

Approaching the south summit of Mulhacén (Photo: Jens Foell) (Route 6)

Avalanches

Most winters and after fresh snowfall there are avalanches all over the Sierra Nevada, but they are normally small and localised. An exception was in February 2011 when a massive slide nearly 1km wide killed one person and injured two others in Barranco de San Juan.

There are four major black spots that regularly avalanche and have become scenes of accidents because they cross normal walking or hiking trails:

 north west of the Tajos de la Virgen ridgeline on the track between Lagunillas de la Virgin and Refugio de Elorrieta (Routes 21, 24). This path crosses steep and dangerous avalanche terrain, and its proximity to the ski centre means increased human traffic. For experienced mountaineers the ridge of the Tajos de la Virgen is safer; or the whole can be avoided by an easy, safe but longer snow ascent up the Tozal de Cartujo via the bowl west of the north west ridge of Cartujo.

 Paso de los Franceses on the south west slopes of Mulhacén above the normal walking track up the Río Mulhacén (Route 5). In particular the old road above this area can be very dangerous. Give this a wide berth westwards on the approach to the west flank route of Mulhacén or the Col de Ciervo. In 1989 an accident here cost the lives of six French mountaineers.

 Paso de los Machos on the south side of Cerro de Los Machos where the old road cuts through a small pass (Routes 23, 31, 32). This area is normally heavily loaded with snow in winter, and the path is used as a quick and easy approach from Carihuela to Mulhacén or the Poqueira/Caldera areas. If heading for Refugio Poqueira, a safer descent is via Loma Pua, Pico de Sabinar and cut through the Terreras Azules below Pico del Púlpito.

 Barranco de San Juan (Route 23), whose proximity to Hoya de la Mora and low altitude increase the risk to mountain-goers. It’s usually full of wind-blown snow after major snowfalls; there are lots of small localised dangers but a massive avalanche in February 2011 has increased awareness of the potential for large-scale slides here. The main route up Veleta (Route 21) totally avoids the valley.

It goes without saying that good mountaineering and avalanche awareness practices should be observed on all routes in the high mountains. There’s a useful online tutorial at www.avalanche.org; and ‘Be Avalanche Aware’, run by the Scottish Avalanche Information Service, provides a good online resource at www.beaware.sais.gov.uk. However, the above blackspots should always be avoided or bypassed.

Icing

After a southerly front from the African continent passes northwards through the Sierra Nevada there is a rapid rise in temperature followed by a quick return to sub-zero. This turns the Sierra Nevada into a gigantic block of ice where a slip by the tired or inexperienced can have disastrous consequences. In winter 2014 many experienced mountaineers got into difficulties on simple routes and had to resort to assistance from the rescue services.

Sharp crampons and ice axes are essential – along with knowledge of how to use them! Choosing a simpler or less exposed route will lessen the risk.

Winds

Predominantly from the west, these are a constant companion in the high mountains. It’s not uncommon for gusts of over 100km/hr to be recorded in winter – and indeed a winter gust of over 200km/hr was once recorded at an altitude of 2800m.

Progress will be difficult and may well be impossible in winds of over 60km/hr, especially on ridges and in areas where the wind is funneled through passes such as Collado de Carihuela. In addition, when strong, bitterly cold winds arrive from the north the wind chill will be extremely high.

Blizzards

A combination of snow and high winds can turn a relatively gentle outing on an accessible mountain into a life-and-death struggle. It’s important to remember and respect the high altitudes and the sometimes long distances involved in reaching safety. Local mountaineers don’t leave home in these conditions, but if you do happen to get caught out it will help if you’ve done your homework with regard to map, compass, escape routes etc. However, given today’s wealth of online weather resources, such problems should not occur.

Snow bridge collapse

This happens in the spring melt when rivers and streams carve tunnels beneath the valley snows. The unstable snows above look perfectly fine to walk on but can collapse, causing injury.

Water sources

In the spring, rivers and streams gush down the hillsides of the Sierra Nevada, swollen by the snowmelt waters, and there is no problem locating suitable drinking water. In fact water is not an issue until July, when these streams start to dry up and eventually disappear (although after ample snow years some patches of hard snow may remain throughout the summer on north-facing slopes, especially in the Corral del Veleta and on Mulhacén and Alcazaba). In late August, September and until the rains arrive, walkers may have to rely on the lakes for water, taking water from the lake itself if there is no flowing exit stream. The waters of the Sierra Nevada are normally very pure, but the best advice is to use a filter to remove any protozoa, bacteria or cryptosporidium.

An indication as to the location of water sources is given where necessary in individual route descriptions in this guide.

Conoce Tus Fuentes (Know Your Springs) is a good online resource that lists and maps all the springs and water sources in Andalucia (in Spanish): www.conocetusfuentes.com

Weather resources

Tajos Altos from the path traversing east of the summit of Cerro del Caballo (Route 12)

There are many online weather resources available for the Sierra Nevada. The following have been found to be useful in terms of both current and future weather influences.

Spanish Met Office (AEMET)

Specific mountain weather forecasts can be found at www.aemet.es/en/ (from the main menu, select Weather > Forecast > Mountains). Weather Alerts are available from the same site and are also available on the AEMET weather app for iOS and Android.

Others

The Sierra Nevada ski website (www.sierranevada.es/en/) is specifically designed for the ski area but their forecasts and webcams give a good indication of what can be expected in the mountains as a whole.

The Instituto de Astrofísica de Andalucía has a weather station (Observatario Sierra Nevada, 2880m) that is useful for determining current conditions and trends: www.osn.iaa.es/meteo.

Meteo Exploration mountain forecasts can be found at www.meteoexploration.com. Enter your required mountain summit into the search field. They have various locations in their database, including El Caballo (Cerro del Caballo), Veleta, Mulhacén, Picón de Jérez and Trevenque, as well as Refugio Poqueira and Refugio Postero Alto.

Planning and maps

Don’t expect the same level of accuracy in Spanish mapping that exists, for example, in the UK with Ordnance Survey maps. There are a variety of maps available that are relatively accurate, although you should be on the lookout for possible errors – especially with regard to dirt access roads. In addition, the names and altitudes of some peaks differ across the various maps.

The recommended and most accurate maps are listed below. In this guide, altitudes and nomenclature are standardised as per the Editorial Penibética maps.

 Parque Nacional de Sierra Nevada 1:40,000 (Editorial Penibética)

 Sierra Nevada – La Integral de los 3000m 1:25,000 (Editorial Piolet)

These can be bought from most major retailers such as Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk). The Penebética map is also available from www.articodis.com

Open Cycle Map

With the onset of mobile apps to help navigate your way around the world, the standard and accuracy of digital mapping has improved in recent years. Mention must be made of the open source mapping software Open Cycle Map (www.opencyclemap.org) – an online global map based on data from the OpenStreetMap project. This can be a useful resource to download and use on your phone, tablet, computer or indeed GPS.

Using this guide

Information board at the mirador near the start of the route, with Trevenque prominent ahead and the snow-covered Sierra Nevada beyond (Route 16)

Routes are grouped according to access point, starting from the south east in Trevélez in the Alpujarras and travelling clockwise around to the north east at Jérez del Marquesado. One route begins in the far east at the Puerto de la Ragua (Route 30). A variety of the best walks or multi-day treks from each access point is offered.

Some walks necessarily overlap, and this affords the opportunity to extend or ‘bolt on’ an additional section to suit. There are countless possible variations throughout the Sierra Nevada; it is the sincere hope that this guide explains the best of the possibilities and provides an inspiration for the reader to go out and explore others.

Times

Timings include normal short refreshment breaks and camera halts etc along the route, but they exclude extended stops. They allow for a slower rate of travel at altitude. They are calculated for summer ascents only; ascents in winter may take longer due to additional rucksack weight and variations in conditions underfoot.

The times are based on those of a reasonably fit person in their early 60s (the author) and happen to equate closely to Naismith’s rule. Adjust timings accordingly if you are younger and fitter – or maybe even older than the author! (Naismith’s rule was devised by William W Naismith, a Scottish mountaineer, in 1892. The basic rule has been adjusted over time, and it states that you should allow 1hr for every 4km forward, plus 1hr for every 600m of ascent and 45min for every 500m of descent.)

For the scambles, the time given in the information box reflects scrambling time only; approach time is provided separately.

Seasonal notes

Due to the large variation in climate and mountain conditions during the year, the routes are accompanied by seasonal notes where relevant. These include potentially difficult or dangerous sections for the winter hill walker, as well as the location of suitable water sources during the long, hot summer months.

Route descriptions

Unless otherwise stated, the route descriptions assume summer conditions. That is, that there is no snow affecting the route, and that there are high temperatures with light winds and clear visibility. Allowance should be made accordingly for any bad weather or winter conditions.

It is assumed that the reader has a good level of navigational and map reading competence – thus not every twist and turn of the path is described; just the major points of navigational and directional importance. However, in the route description, places or features along the way that are highlighted in bold correlate with those shown on the route map, to aid navigation.

Intermediate timings and distances are provided throughout the route descriptions; unless otherwise stated, these measure from the start of the main route.

Walking and scrambling grades

The grading of walks is subjective but the following grades have been applied in an attempt to convey the character and overall difficulty of a walk to the reader. It should be noted that use of summer ski lifts or the park bus services to gain altitude will reduce the difficulty and given grade.

Leisurely

No experience necessary. Anyone fit and healthy enough to complete a weekend walk should be able to manage these. Short walks (usually of 3–5 hours’ duration) on good, well-maintained paths or tracks at low altitude. No navigational difficulties.

Moderate

Those with hill-walking experience should be able to manage these routes. Good health and reasonable fitness required as there are some longer/harder days (with an average of 5–7 hours’ duration). Usually no extremes of altitude or ascent/descent and walking generally on good paths, but with some rocky terrain. Navigation fairly straightforward.

Challenging

Fitness is important on these routes and you may have to improve it before departure. Most treks involve extended walking in mountainous terrain, usually at significantly higher altitudes. Climate and remoteness can also play a part. Previous trekking experience is therefore desirable. Six to eight hours per day with occasional longer days on peaks or passes. Treks may include difficult terrain (including loose scree), high altitudes, occasional significant daily ascents and overnights in remote areas. Potential navigation difficulties in poor weather.

Looking back along the Vasar de Mulhacén to Veleta (Route 8)

Tough

Tough treks in remote mountain landscapes, so stamina essential as walking days are long and hard. It is recommended that you have previous trekking experience – preferably at altitude – as well as complete confidence in your physical condition and self-reliance. Treks may involve difficult terrain (possibly with some scrambling sections), extremes of altitude and significant ascent/decent (a number of days feature over 1000m of ascent). Navigation difficult in poor conditions. Remote, wild environments with few facilities, perhaps for extended periods – be prepared to rough it!

Very tough

Treks include all the elements of the previous grade, but with extra difficulties such as tricky river crossings, very high or difficult passes, navigational problems or peaks that require basic climbing skills.

Scrambling grades

A final section in this guide highlights five fine high-mountain scrambles from Grade 2 to Grade 3S for those who are looking for a bit more of an adrenaline rush. The selection given here merely scratches the surface of the possibilities in the region, however; there’s plenty of scope for future development!

 Grade 1 – no specialist mountaineering skills required. Technically easy although a head for heights may be required at times

 Grade 2 – more serious, possibly needing some simple technical skills. Rope and safety gear should be used

 Grade 3 – similar to Grade 2 but with simple pitches of easy rock climbing. More technical rope work and protection required

 Grade 3(S) – serious. Some short sections of moderate/difficult rock climbing may be encountered.