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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Looking north towards Barmouth along the viaduct across the Mawddach Estuary (Stage 6)
When the Wales Coast Path was created in 2013, Wales became the first country in the world to have a dedicated footpath that follows its entire coastline. When coupled with the already famous Offa’s Dyke National Trail from Chepstow to Prestatyn, it forms a 1030-mile walking route around the whole of the principality. This guidebook is for those who want to experience a similar circumnavigation of Wales by bike, following existing traffic-free paths and the quieter roads nearest the coast.
To make a circuit that can be comfortably ridden over a two-week holiday, the Gower Peninsula, Llyn Peninsula and Anglesey have been omitted, although there are suggestions in the text on how best to incorporate them into a tour. The resulting circuit provides 657 miles (1051km) of wonderful riding that starts on the waterfront in Cardiff, the capital city of Wales, and includes mile after mile of stunning coastal landscape before heading back south through the rolling marcher country along the border. You will ride past miles of golden sand along the south coast in Pembrokeshire, Britain’s only coastal National Park; past the historic castles of Cardigan Bay; along the Menai Straight and through the seaside towns on the north coast, visiting some delightful towns and villages that benefit from being off the normal tourist itinerary.
Kidwelly Castle from the bank of Gwendraeth Fach (Stage 2)
Travelling through such wonderful countryside by bike is hugely satisfying for those who want to cover the miles quickly, as well as those preferring a more leisurely pace to watch wildlife and explore attractions along the way. There are plenty of pretty villages and interesting towns where you can top up your energy levels in local cafés and find interesting shops to replenish your supplies. These towns also provide a good choice of overnight accommodation and places for dinner, although you may need to leave the route to find exactly what you’re looking for. Add to that an impressive collection of castles, industrial archaeology, churches, chapels and prehistoric sites along the route and you have a ride that you will remember for a very long time.
The magnificent red kite is now a common sight in many parts of Central Wales (Image authorised for common usage)
Welsh chapels: the other iconic buildings of Wales
Apart from its magnificent castles, Wales’ other iconic buildings are its chapels, and you will see hundreds of examples while cycling through the country. Up until the Toleration Act 1689 was passed, it was illegal for dissenters to meet for worship, so many congregations met secretly in remote houses and barns. But from the end of the 17th century until the early 20th century, congregations built around 10,000 chapels, often financing their construction with loans that took decades to pay off. Initially, the chapels were quite plain but once the congregations started to commission architects, the chapels began to reflect the height of fashion, particularly during the later Victorian era when it became quite common to amalgamate all manner of influences into ornate gable end walls. Many were also rebuilt or remodelled to accommodate a growing congregation, often through the addition of a gallery that had been cleverly allowed for in the original design.
Some still maintain a thriving congregation but many have been converted for residential or commercial use, such as Libanus Chapel in Borth, which has been turned into a cinema and bistro. Others stand empty and strangely silent, waiting for someone to rescue them from creeping dereliction and potential demolition. See www.welshchapels.org for further information and an interactive map that provides more details about each of the chapels along the route.
The page opposite shows six chapels of different styles that you will pass while riding around Wales.
Henllan Baptist Chapel (top left), in the Vale of Eywas on Stage 11, was built in 1865 in the Vernacular style with a single door on the gable end.
Blaen-y-Cefn Methodist Chapel (top right), just north of Cardigan on Stage 4, was built in 1808. It was rebuilt in 1837 in the Simple Round-Headed style with separate doors for men and women along the long wall. Traditionally, the men sat in the pews to the right of the minister and the women and children sat in the pews to his left, with the interior layout designed so the minister could see everyone.
Llanfairfechan Methodist Chapel (centre left) on Stage 9 was built sometime before 1897 using corrugated iron. It is still in use and is known locally as ‘Capel Sinc’.
Bryn Seion Methodist Chapel (centre right), near the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct on Stage 9, was built in the Classical style in 1902 using locally made red brick. The Grade II listed building has been sympathetically converted into a cycle-friendly café and bistro.
Seion Welsh Independent Chapel (bottom left), situated in Baker Street, Aberystwyth on Stage 5, was built in the Italianate Classical style in 1876 by the Welsh-born architect Richard Owens (1831–1891), whose Liverpool-based practice was responsible for 250–300 chapels, largely in North Wales. Owens was by no means the most prolific of the known chapel architects, though, as his contemporary, the largely self-taught Welsh Independent minister, Thomas Thomas (1817–1888) is reputed to have played a part in the building, restoration or extension of some 1000 chapels throughout Wales. It is thought that he delivered the first sermon in each of the chapels he was involved with. However, after an illustrious career he was forced into semi-retirement when it was revealed that he owned almost 40 properties around Swansea that were used as brothels.
Zion English Presbyterian Church (bottom right), located in Mansel Street, Carmarthen on Stage 2, was built in the Classical style in 1850 by the architect RG Thomas (1820–1883) of Newport. It remains in use and is now a Grade II listed building.
Different types of chapels on the route
As the route is circular you can start and finish your tour at any point along the way. Detailed information is provided on the rail services you can use to get to and from the towns chosen for the start and finish of each stage, most of which are on the rail network. Although it is always best to follow the advice of the particular train operator, taking bikes on trains in Wales is typically far easier than in other parts of the UK, so you can leave the car at home.
Convenient access by rail also means you can split a circumnavigation across two or more tours starting and finishing at stations on or near the route. The additional cross routes, which all start and finish at towns served by rail, mean you can also plan shorter tours that are easy to get to without using a vehicle. A number of shorter tours are suggested in this guide, but you can easily use the detailed information provided to plan your own route to fit the time you have available.
George Borrow: Wales’s greatest traveller
On the morning of 29 July 1854 the Victorian travel writer, George Borrow, set out from Chester and walked on a circuitous route around Wales, while his wife and stepdaughter used coaches and the newly opened railways to hop between inns along the way. Despite his 51 years and his snow-white hair, Borrow was upright and athletic and would continue to ride horses and swim outdoors into his seventies, also undertaking long walks at a brisk pace that lasted for many weeks. He recounted his travels in the book Wild Wales, which remains in print over 150 years after it was first published in 1862. Throughout his life Barrow had three main interests: languages, legends and Romany gypsies, and he was able to indulge himself in all three during his walking holiday in Wales.
Before his late marriage, Borrow had worked overseas for the Bible Society and was fluent in Russian, Spanish and Portuguese. But many of the other languages he claimed to speak he learnt from books, so his understanding of their grammar and pronunciation was probably rudimentary at best. He learnt Welsh by comparing a translation of John Milton’s Paradise Lost by the Welsh antiquarian and grammarian William Owen Pughe (1759–1835) with the original English verse. He supplemented this with some oral coaching from ‘Taffy’ Lloyd, a Welsh-born ostler employed by William Simpson at the Norwich solicitors where he had served a legal apprenticeship while in his teens. Taffy’s tuition was not the best, and 30 years later when Borrow got to try out his Welsh on locals, those in North Wales thought he must originate from South Wales and those in South Wales thought he must originate from North Wales, while others thought he was a Breton.
Borrow died in 1881, four years before the introduction of the safety bicycle, which is now recognized as the catalyst in cycling becoming a popular pastime. But if they had arrived on the scene during his lifetime, I feel sure he would have ridden one, delighting in the speed with which he could travel and the fact that it was all due to his own physical effort. I considered following the route Borrow travelled in Wild Wales by bike as it would be fascinating to compare what he saw and described with what can be seen today, using the early Ordnance Survey maps to follow his route and Victorian censuses and parish records to identify the people he met. However this is hardly feasible as many of the rutted roads that Borrow walked along are now busy trunk roads, but I will share his observations of some of the places he visited in 1854 in the route descriptions.
Why cycle around Wales?
A circumnavigation of Wales covers the entire country from the industrial south to the sea cliffs of Pembrokeshire, passing through wild mountains and along green valleys, where some of the events that shaped Wales took place. In addition to the beautiful, varied landscape, there is great satisfaction in doing a ride that circumnavigates a country, taking in its history and industrial heritage as well as the less-visited and sparsely populated areas along the border.
The route makes extensive use of traffic-free, shared-use paths, particularly through the cities and towns along the south and north coasts, and uses waymarked National Cycle Routes that run along the coast or down the border wherever possible. This makes route-finding much easier. However, inevitably, there are some sections where you need to follow the detailed route description diligently and/or use a satnav.
How tough is it?
This circuit of Wales can be ridden as a leisure activity or as a challenge, and this guidebook provides schedules for both types of rider. There are some hilly sections, particularly along the west coast and the border. However, the gradients are never extreme, with even the Gospel Pass above Hay-on-Wye, which is the highest road in Wales, snaking steadily uphill for 5 miles at an average gradient of 5.5%.
A cyclist nears the top of the Gospel Pass after the long climb for Hay-on-Wye (Stage 11)
Which direction to ride
Because of the prevailing south-westerly winds that sometimes rip up the exposed west coast, it is usually easier to ride a circuit of Wales in a clockwise direction as described in this guidebook. Riding in this direction also means you quickly escape the predominantly urban landscape between Cardiff and Swansea. However, you may decide to ride the route in the opposite direction, in which case you will need to adapt the directions in the route descriptions.
Looking north along the Promenade at Aberystwyth (Stage 5)
Selecting a schedule
Inevitably, the 12 stages of this guidebook will not necessarily coincide with your personal itinerary, which will depend on the amount of time you have available, your daily mileage and whether you wish to visit attractions along the way. If you want a more relaxed schedule, allow more time for the more undulating west coast and the southern section of the English border.
The availability of accommodation will also determine where your days begin and end, which could be at places before the end of a stage, into the following stage or perhaps somewhere off the route altogether. When planning your ride:
first decide how many days you can spare or need,
then use the alternative schedules to identify roughly where each day will ideally begin and end.
Identify the most convenient accommodation that suits your budget. This may mean amending your initial schedule so be prepared to be flexible, perhaps enjoying a night in a B&B if there are no hostels nearby and vice versa.
Book your accommodation and finalize your schedule. You will have more choice of where to stay if you book your accommodation well in advance of your departure date.
You can combine the cross routes with sections of the circular route to plan your own itinerary. The suggested tours are categorized as short, medium and long, but you can take them at your own pace.
Short Tours (2–3 days)
Around North Wales: 144 miles/230km with 3000m of ascent
This circular tour crosses North Wales from the border through the dramatic Snowdonia Mountains before turning back along the coast to return to the start at Wrexham. It is easily accessed by rail and there is plenty of accommodation to choose from throughout the route.
Tour of Pembrokeshire: 146 miles/234km with 3300m of ascent
This wonderful short tour around the spectacular coast of Pembrokeshire is easy to reach using the train network, with direct services from many mainland stations.
Across and back: 156 miles/250km with 3650m of ascent
This tour runs from the border to the coast and back again through some of the less-visited parts of Wales. Again, it is easily accessed via the national rail network – and you may also wish to take the train between Aberystwyth or Tywyn and Machynlleth to avoid a particularly busy stretch of the A487. See Stage 5 for further details.
Medium tours (4–5days)
Around the heartlands: 171 miles/273km with 7100m of ascent
This circuit has considerable variety, including the well-surfaced canal towpath between Welshpool and Newtown, the high mountain road between Llanidloes and Machynlleth, the seaside at Barmouth and a high-level traverse of the Berwyn Mountains back to the start.
Around the Welsh Valleys: 232 miles/371km with 3500m of ascent
This easily accessible tour takes in the South Wales coast, where much of the route follows a shared-use path, returning on quiet lanes along the northern edge of the Brecon Beacons.
Through the high hills: 218 miles/349km with 5040m of ascent
This more demanding short tour passes through Snowdonia before turning south down the more gentle west coast, returning over the Berwyn Mountains. Plenty of accommodation is available in the resorts and coastal towns, and you may wish to take a rest day before tackling the more strenuous ascent on the return leg.
Longer tours (6–7 days)
The following three tours are ideal for those who can only get away for a week. They are all easily accessible by rail, and there are plenty of opportunities to resort to the train should you need to make up lost time.
Loop of North Wales: 348 miles/556km with 7100m of ascent
This is the easiest of the longer tours as it avoids the higher mountains.
Loop around Central Wales: 422 miles/675km with 10,000m of ascent
This week-long tour takes in the less-populated parts of Wales, which is ideal for those wanting to get away from it all.
Loop around South Wales: 472 miles/755km with 9200m of ascent
This longer tour can either be ridden fast over a hard week or taken at a much more leisurely pace over two weeks.
Getting there
Many local cyclists will happily add an extra day or two to either end of their tour and make use of the National Cycle Network (NCN) to get to the route and back. But others from further afield, and those pressed for time, will undoubtedly need another form of transport. Unless you are riding in a big group or on a tandem, the easiest way to access the route is by train, as Cardiff, Chepstow and Holyhead are all on the national rail network. Similarly, there are a number of stations along the route, so you can easily split the ride into sections. See ‘By rail’ below for further details.
If you are riding as a group you may be able to commandeer someone to drop you at one end and collect you from the other. Some lucky groups may have their support vehicle stay with them to move luggage between stops and provide catering support.
Travel
For details on all public transport journeys throughout the UK, including local bus services, tel 0871 200 2233 www.traveline.info or www.traveline.cymru.
By rail
All correctly ticketed awaiting the morning train
There are numerous stations where you can start or finish your bike ride around Wales as detailed in the notes below. But for general information on travel by rail tel 08457 484 950 www.nationalrail.co.uk
Cardiff Central Station, where the route description of the circular tour starts and finishes, provides direct trains to stations in West Wales and most parts of the UK. Great Western Railway provides services between the south of England and Cardiff, Swansea and beyond. They have space for bicycles on most trains but ask that you reserve your bike space when booking your tickets online, at a ticket office or by calling 0345 7000 125. See www.gwr.com for details.
Aberystwyth, Barmouth, Criccieth, Porthmadog, Harlech, and other stations on the Cambrian Coast Line, are close to the circular route and provide services via Machynlleth to Shrewsbury and Birmingham, with connections to most other parts of the UK.
Bangor Station, on the North Wales Coast Line, provides trains to Chester and Cardiff, with connections to most other parts of the UK.
Trafnidiaeth Cymru/Transport For Wales runs local and commuter services along the north coast tfwrail.wales. The train company provides bike space on all of their services except during peak hours on some Valleys and Cardiff Local Routes. They recommend that you make a reservation as far in advance as possible and reserve a cycle space at the time of booking. You can do this at any staffed national rail station or by calling their telesales office on 0870 9000 773. See tfwrail.wales for further details.
Virgin Trains runs mainline services to and from Holyhead and provides special bike storage areas with space for up to 4 bikes, but you will need to reserve a space for your bike before you travel. The service is free and reservations can be made at any booking office or by calling 0344 556 5650. On the day of travel, collect your bike reservation coupons at a FastTicket machine at the station by keying in your FastTicket reference number and the number of the bank card you used to make the booking. Then give yourself a minimum of 10 minutes to contact a member of the Virgin platform staff, who will help you load your bicycle. Once aboard, inform the Train Manager that you are travelling with a bicycle, and he will help you disembark at your destination station. It sounds complicated, but it seems to work even though local staff may not be entirely familiar with the process. See www.virgintrains.co.uk for details.
Wrexham General Station is on the Shrewsbury to Chester line, with connections to most other parts of the UK; visit tfwrail.wales for further details.
Abergavenny Station is on the Newport to Hereford line.
Chepstow Station is on the Newport to Birmingham line, with connections to most other parts of the UK; visit tfwrail.wales for further details.
By bus
National Express, Britain’s only scheduled coach network, says it will carry dismantled and folding bicycles if space is available, provided the bikes are suitably packed. However, the coach company also states that carrying a bike on a service does not guarantee that it will carry it on any subsequent service. As this provides cyclists with no reassurance that their bike will be carried, let alone any advice on what to do with the transit box when they start cycling, the company may as well say no.
The same goes for the TrawsCambria service between South and North Wales, which involves a number of stages each operated by a different bus company. Not all of the companies carry bikes, and you are advised to contact each operator individually. A further deterrent is that the journey takes 11 hours. For more information visit www.trawscymru.info.
By air
Cardiff airport, near the southern end of the route, provides international and domestic services. Anglesey airport, near the northern end of the route, only provides a twice daily service to and from Cardiff. Alternative airports include Manchester, Liverpool, Birmingham and Bristol, although arriving at any one of these airports still leaves you a journey of 100 miles or more, necessitating using public transport or hiring a car.
If you are planning to fly with your bike, you should contact your airline and make a reservation when you book your seat. The airline will charge you for carrying your bike and will ask that you follow their packing instructions; these typically include turning and locking the handlebars parallel with the frame, removing the pedals and front wheel and attaching them to the frame and deflating the tyres before placing the bike in a carrying bag or transit box.
By ferry
Stena Line operates between Dublin or Dun Laoghaire and Holyhead; visit www.stenaline.co.uk for details.
Irish Ferries Line operates between Dublin and Holyhead. Visit www.irishferries.co.uk for details.
First and last nights in Cardiff
Cardiff is easily accessible by rail and there is even an extension of NCN 8, which runs for 2 miles from the main station to the start of the route in Cardiff Bay. There is also a huge choice of accommodation, from five-star hotels to ultra-modern hostels with private rooms and internal bike storage. As Wales’s capital city, Cardiff is home to the National Museum, which houses the national art, natural history and geology collections, as well as temporary exhibitions. But there are plenty of other attractions, such as Cardiff Castle and Cardiff Bay, world-famous sporting venues, top-class entertainment and quality shopping – making it great place to spend an extra night.
Built in 1897 as the headquarters for the Bute Dock Company, the Pierhead Building in Cardiff Bay is now used by the National Assembly for Wales
When to ride
The best time to go is between April and October when the days are longer and the weather is at its best. But even then you may experience inclement days so always check the weather forecast before you set out, so you will know whether to keep your waterproof at the top of your pack and wear your overshoes from the start. But if you are struggling, and the weather forecast is atrocious, consider taking the train or see whether a local taxi service can move you and your bike along the route. You can always come back and ride the section you missed another time.
Heading west towards St Donat’s on a perfectly sunny day (Stage 1)
Accommodation
While some cycle tourists prefer to camp, days of repeatedly ascending 1000m or more are unlikely to be pleasurable with heavy luggage. This guide makes maximum use of hostels and bunkhouses along or near the route (though also lists a selection of cycle-friendly hotels and B&Bs – see Appendix B), but if you prefer additional comforts you will find information on a variety of accommodation to suit most pockets at the Welsh Tourist Board, www.visitwales.com. You may not be able to get exactly what you want at the start or finish of each of stage, so you may have to curtail your day before the end of a stage, ride further into the next stage or temporarily leave the route.
Hostels are always busy during the summer months, and those in the more popular locations can be full at weekends and sometimes even in the depths of winter, so it pays to book early. The Youth Hostel Association, www.yha.org.uk, has a number of hostels in Wales, and there is an increasing number of independent hostels – see www.independenthostelguide.co.uk for details.
It is worth seeking out Visit Wales’s star-graded B&Bs, guest houses and hotels enrolled in their Cyclists Welcome scheme, which provides drying facilities, bike storage and other services. Whatever you choose, if you want to arrive early to drop off your bike and go sightseeing, or anticipate arriving late due to an unforeseen delay, it is only courteous to ring ahead and let them know.
Waiting to check in to a wonderfully situated hostel at St David’s (Stage 3)
What to take
The plethora of accommodation and the high number of cycle shops along the route mean you can keep the bike as light as possible. Here are my tips to lighten your load:
Think layers and add-ons rather than alternatives.
Use drying facilities to rinse through cycling gear and other clothing every evening.
Choose leisurewear, such as long-sleeved T-shirts, that can also be an extra layer for chilly days.
Share tools and accessories.
Buy travel-sized toiletries and give shaving a miss for the week.
Make do with a smartphone and leave all other electronics at home.
Only carry one feed-bottle – it’ll be plenty.
Use accommodation with secure storage and leave the heavy bike lock at home.
But always wear a helmet as riding without one is irresponsible.
Adopting such guidelines produces the kit list shown in Appendix D, which totals 5–7kg for summer tours and 7–9kg during winter. Having reduced your kit as much as possible, you should be able to fit it easily into a pair of panniers or a set of seat and frame packs.
Preparing your bike
Other than for a very short section on the old coach road between Newbridge-on-Wye and Rhayader, the road surface is remarkably good so you can ride the route on a road bike, a mountain bike or a hybrid/city bike. However, there are some things that you can do to make your ride more comfortable:
Leave your best carbon frame and carbon wheels at home.
Use tyres that are 28mm or wider as they will be more comfortable, especially over the short sections of gravel track that are occasionally encountered.
Swap mountain bike tyres for lower profile urban tyres, which require less effort and provide a quieter ride.
Fit a cassette with a 30-, 32- or 34-tooth sprocket to make it easier to climb hills.
Fit bar ends to straight handlebars so you have more choice for resting tired hands.
Fit a bell, which is essential for negotiating pedestrians on shared-use paths.
Whatever you choose, It is always advisable to have your bike serviced a couple of weeks before your trip, allowing sufficient time for any worn parts to be replaced and run-in before your departure. There are plenty of cycle shops on or near the route, see Appendix A for details.
Cycling dos and don’ts
Be considerate to others on shared-use paths, particularly to children and dogs, which can often behave unpredictably. Ring your bell or call out to pass – and always say thank you.
Although you can legally ride two abreast, quickly move into single file on minor roads always giving a cheery wave to thank considerate drivers.
Scan ahead for hazards, such as road furniture, grit and livestock detritus.
Avoid the green mossy strip along the centre of tree-lined roads as it may be slippery.
Always park your bike in a prominent position and secure it with a ‘café lock’ when you go exploring.
Ride across cattle grids square-on, standing on the pedals with your knees bent and you will hardly notice them.
Always use hand signals to make your intentions clear to others.
Eating
Cycling is strenuous so keep your energy reserves topped up by eating frequently, otherwise you will soon ‘hit the wall’ and feel tired and demotivated. However, it is best to avoid a full breakfast as it will weigh heavy for most of the morning. Get into the routine of eating little and often rather than waiting until you feel hungry, as by then it is frequently too late.
Many cyclists rely on things such as sandwiches, fruitcake, cereal bars and fruit. That’s not to say, you should ignore the region’s many inns and cafés; but err on the side of caution and stick to energy-giving snacks and pastries rather than a full midday meal.
A popular cycle café in Llantwit Major that goes the extra mile by providing cycle locks for customers to shackle their bikes to nearby railings
10 Foods to try in Wales
Bara brith (speckled bread) is a Welsh version of tea loaf enriched with dried fruit and mixed spices, usually served sliced and buttered.
Glamorgan sausage (selsig morgannwg), which is traditionally made from Caerphilly cheese, leeks, breadcrumbs and spices, was popular during World War II when meat was in short supply.
Cawl, often said to be the national dish of Wales, is a broth made from meat, potatoes, swedes, carrots and other seasonal vegetables, such as leeks.
Thought to have originated in the Welsh Valleys in the 18th century, Welsh rarebit is cheese on toast, sometimes mixed with onions, egg and milk and seasoned with salt and pepper.
Crempog is a pancake made with flour, buttermilk, eggs, vinegar and salted butter traditionally served on Shrove Tuesday and other days of celebration, such as birthdays.
By the time you finish the ride you will have seen thousands on the hillsides, so why not try Welsh lamb close to where it is reared.
Look out for the oggie – a D-shaped pasty made with lamb and leeks.
Welsh cakes are baked circular delights spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg and dusted in caster sugar.
Laverbread (bara lawr) is an edible seaweed usually served with toast or alongside bacon and eggs for breakfast.
Some quality craft beers are produced on or near the route: Brains, Bullmastiff and Crafty Devil (Cardiff); Vale of Glamorgan Brewery I (Barry); Tomos & Lilford Brewery (Llantwit Major); Borough Brewery and Neath Ales (Neath); Boss Brewing, Tomos Watkins and Mumbles Brewery (Swansea); Preseli Brewery (Tenby); Bluestone Brewing (Cilgwyn, Pembrokeshire); Penlon Cottage Brewery (New Quay); Purple Moose (Porthmadog); Great Orme Brewery and Wild Horse Brewing (Llandudno); Monty’s Brewery (Montgomery) and Tiny Rebel (Newport).
A road cyclist climbing the Nant Ffrancon Pass with Tryfan on the skyline (Cross route 1)
Phones and Wi-Fi
Although mobile coverage is generally good, phone users in Wales have the least access to 4G networks in the UK, so you may not be able to post your photos straight to social media when riding through the Cambrian Mountains in Mid Wales. However, many cafés and pubs provide free Wi-Fi access so you should not be offline for too long.
Emergencies
You may encounter few fellow cyclists along some of the more remote stages in Mid Wales, so it pays to be prepared for problems or emergencies. Should you have a good mobile phone signal, you can telephone the emergency services by dialling 999 or 112. However, it is always wise to let someone know your plans, particularly across the more remote hills between Machynlleth and Dolgellau on Cross route 3.
Waymarking
Where NCN routes are followed, they are generally well signed with fingerposts at major junctions and small blue repeater signs along the way. It can occasionally become confusing when signage for local routes takes precedent, when another NCN route briefly follows the same course or when signs are hidden behind undergrowth or temporarily misplaced. So it pays to be attentive at junctions, checking as you approach a junction and as you ride away from it to see if there is signage for riders going in the opposite direction.
Having the route downloaded on to a GPS, so that you get a reassuring beep at every junction, is also reassuring but not a necessity. However, GPS devices also have a nasty habit of losing satellite connection along the extensive tree-lined sections of the route, and you may need to carry a power pack to top up the battery while riding.
Maps
This book is designed to be small enough to carry with you and includes linear maps that are entirely adequate for following the route. However, they do not show much on either side of the route, such as where your overnight accommodation is located, so it is advisable to carry separate maps, such as those in the Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger Series for such purposes.
Using this guide
Although the circumnavigation is organised into 12 stages, it is most likely you will choose to use one of the suggested alternative schedules or work out your own itinerary. Each stage starts and finishes at a location where there is a selection of different types of accommodation and good local facilities. At the beginning of each stage, an information box summarises the practical details associated with the stage, including the start and finish points (with grid references), distance, total ascent and numbers of the relevant Ordnance Survey map sheets should you wish to explore. An estimation of the time required to complete the stage is provided, although this will of course vary considerably according to fitness and the prevailing weather. Details of attractions and services along the stage are also provided.
The route shown on the accompanying 1:200,000 maps is then described in detail with features that appear on the maps highlighted in bold in the text. Detailed maps show the route where it is sometimes difficult to find the way back to the route after taking a break to explore. Distances shown in brackets in the route description are the cumulative distance from the start of the stage and the distance still to ride to the end of the stage.
Sunset at the Parrog Estuary at Newport (Stage 4)
Estimating times in hilly terrain
Estimating how long a ride will take when it involves a significant amount of climbing is notoriously difficult. Hillwalkers use Naismith’s Rule, which allows 1 hour for every 3 miles (5km) covered in distance plus 1 hour for every 2000ft (600m) of ascent. Because there is considerable variation between the speed and climbing abilities of a committed club cyclist and a leisure cyclist, there is no comparable benchmark in cycling. However, the basic principle still applies.
Total time = time to cover the distance + time spent ascending
The Italian physician and cycling coach Michele Ferrari developed the term velocità ascensionale media (VAM) to refer to the average speed of ascent. VAM is usually expressed as metres per hour (m/h) and winners of mountain stages in grand tours typically climb at more than 1500m/h, while most club cyclists are capable of climbing somewhere in the range of 700 and 900m/h.
In this book much more modest values have been used for VAM, with estimated times based on 10mph (16kph) plus 400m/h. So a stage of 50 miles that involves 800m of ascent is estimated to take roughly 7 hours.
To get an estimate of your own VAM, first assess your average speed on the flat and then record your times for a number of measured climbs and see what number best fits. But if all of this is too much for you, just use the rule of thumb that 5 miles in the hills takes about as long as 8 miles on the flat.
GPX tracks
GPX tracks for the routes in this guidebook are available to download free at www.cicerone.co.uk/988/GPX. A GPS device is an excellent aid to navigation, but you should also carry a map and, essentially, know how to use it. GPX files are provided in good faith, but neither the author nor the publisher accepts responsibility for their accuracy.
