Читать книгу Mountain Biking in Slovenia - Rob Houghton - Страница 9

INTRODUCTION

Looking back at the Julian Alps from near the summit of Stol (Route 12)

Shhh! Don’t tell anyone. I’m going to tell you a secret. There’s a country slap in the middle of Europe that’s beautiful, modern and well-developed, cheap to visit and that has some of the best mountain biking in the world. Oh, and it’s beautiful – did I mention that? For some reason, however, most people planning their European holidays – especially those planning a biking trip abroad – mysteriously and unforgivably overlook Slovenia.

Those of you used to the beautifully groomed purpose-built trails of the UK, and maybe an annual trip to Spain or France for your yearly hit of rugged heights, may have certain questions to ask of a guide to Slovenian mountain biking. Not least of these might be, ‘Why Slovenia?’ and a supplementary query might be, ‘Where is it?’. But this tiny country, nestled between Austria, Italy, Hungary and Croatia, has an enormous amount to offer the mountain biker.

At about the size of Wales, Slovenia is not big, yet as anyone who has ever visited either of these countries can attest, size doesn’t always matter and small places can sometimes pack a surprising amount in. Within its compact area, for example, Slovenia can boast of three distinct climatic zones: Alpine (good for riding in), Mediterranean (good for relaxing days off and seafood) and Pannonian (good for wine and also for riding in). In amongst this, frankly, absurd abundance of climates can be found a huge variety of landscapes, from limestone karst to deep forest, from high mountains to meandering rivers. Did I mention that Slovenia was beautiful?

On the Soča riverside trail (Route 10)

The Slovene people take all this nature very seriously. They are an outdoor nation and they punch well above their weight internationally in many sports, but especially in mountaineering, skiing and, of course, cycling. Conservation is also important to this country: around 50% of the land is covered in forest and much of the rest has been preserved to a very high degree. As a consequence, there is a great profusion of plant and wild life. To Britons, whose largest wild mammal is the red deer and whose most dangerous predator is the ferret, it may come as a bit of a shock to be riding a trail pocked with the tracks of wolf, lynx, brown bear or chamois.

Flowers of the ancient woodland near Doljenske Toplice (Route 25)

Slovenia also manages that strange balancing act of being very well developed while simultaneously remaining a cheap place to visit. It seceded from the former Yugoslavia in 1991, triggering the Balkan War. However, Slovenia itself only suffered 10 days of fighting and then emerged, miraculously fully formed, with a parliament, currency and national anthem later that year. It has remained a well-developed and relatively wealthy country ever since, joining the EU in 2004 and adopting the Euro.

Despite this, Slovenia is a cheap place for Britons to visit. There are budget airlines flying directly from the UK to the capital Ljubljana and to other airports in the region. A beer still only costs around €2, a pizza about €6 and a perfectly fine hardtail can be rented for something like €10 a day. Accommodation varies from luxury four- and five-star hotels and resorts to more modest but well-equipped campsites. In all cases, you’ll be pleasantly surprised by the prices – especially if your experience of European travel is largely limited to the West.

But what of the riding? Well, of course, it’s fabulous. The main regions all offer something different, catering for the competent beginner to the expert. The routes in this book reflect this diversity, although the majority are aimed at the fit and competent intermediate rider. Gorenjska provides possibly some of the most spectacular scenery in the country; it’s all high mountains and lush valleys and you’ll find that each day’s ride begins with a stiff climb that can be up to 7 or 8km in length in places. The climbs tend to be done on gravel forestry tracks and they lead to fabulous views. Then, of course, you can benefit from all that climbing with an extended downhill run. It is classic alpine cross-country riding: nothing too technical but some tough physical challenges with awesome pay-offs.

The Soča Valley is a little bit different. The magnificent turquoise river defines this region and the tone of the rides change as you head further downstream. Higher up, where the river is a turbulent, troublesome teenager, you’ll still get those long, high days out in the Alps with their tough climbs and long descents. As the river calms and begins to take its time, you’ll find that the rides become a little less physically demanding (although no less rewarding). As you leave the national park, you’ll also find a little more freedom in where you can ride and a few more singletrack descents will creep in. Wherever I’ve been able, however, I have routed the trails alongside this most beautiful of rivers so that the rider can enjoy the full Soča experience.

The spectacular River Soča (Route 9)

Further south our routes flatten out somewhat and become a good deal more varied. You might find yourself riding among the forests of the Nanos plateau, where the undulating terrain belies the views you’ll glimpse, from the southern edge all the way across to the Adriatic sea. Or you might be weaving your way in and out of vineyards in the warmth of a Mediterranean afternoon, looking forward to your seafood supper. There are the tremendous limestone caves of the Karst region around Postojna and the magical, ephemeral lake at Cerknica that disappears in the summer. None of these rides will overly tax your technical skills and, physically, they are generally much less demanding than the rides further north. This region is for relaxing days out and long, lazy evenings.

Finally we move to the central and north-east region, where the riding becomes a bit harder again. The Savinjske Alpe chain runs through this area and suddenly we’re back on tough climbs and extended descents. The main difference with Gorenjska, however, is that these trails feel a good deal more remote as there are far fewer people around. The area around Črna, with its quiet alpine trails, may be the best the country has to offer but it is a bit out of the way. Maribor, however, cannot be said to be out of the way. There is a fantastic variety of riding to be had around the second city, from Nanos-esque plateau riding to the World Cup downhill course on the ski fields of Pohorje.

Purpose-built trails have grown in popularity in recent years and Slovenia has now become something of a haven for national mountain bike teams looking for quiet training grounds. However, many of the trails remain as adapted bridleways and retain an authentic, adventurous cross-country feel. You’re as likely to find yourself tackling a 7km descent as you are to be following a turquoise river or winding through ancient forest. In addition, many of the ski resorts now provide summer downhill riding, using their uplift infrastructure to hoik your bike to the summit for you.

Almost empty trails await you: entering the village of Avber (Route 19)

There’s other great infrastructure for riders too. As well as the purpose-built trails there are good maps for all of the cycling regions, and the tourist information centres provide great advice. Bike hire or repair is also easy. Everywhere you go, there are well-stocked bike shops with knowledgeable staff (who almost certainly speak English) and the gear and components you’re used to.

In short, there really is no excuse for not going. Everything you could possibly require from a biking holiday is available in Slovenia. How about excellent and hearty food and drink? Got it. Fancy a ride in a cave? Sorted. What about a sauna after a day out on the hills? Check. Do you want all this and to pay less (a lot less) for it than you would in, say, France? Then stop faffing around, buy this guide and book your ticket.

Fancy a spot of cave biking? (Route 22)

Getting there

Travelling with a bike

Travelling with a bike can be a hassle. If this is the first time you’ve taken an overseas mountain biking trip and you’re thinking of taking your own bike, you should consider a few things. Firstly, you’ll need to pack the bike well – particularly if you’re flying. Many people simply buy or borrow a cardboard box from a bike shop and ship their machine in that. If you’re planning to do that, make sure everything is well padded – particularly the rear mech and your lovely paintwork.

Another option is to buy a purpose-made bike box, which might set you back anything between £200 and £600. For that price, however, they provide excellent protection for the bike while it’s in transit. Do remember, if you’re removing either of the wheels and you have hydraulic disc brakes, to put a spacer between the pads to prevent the calipers from locking shut.

It’s also worth remembering that whatever means you’ve used to ship your bike out to Slovenia, you’ll need to store the box somewhere until you’re ready to bring the bike back in it. There is left-luggage at the major airports servicing Slovenia, but a car at the other end might be the most practical solution.

Flying

Slovenia is well serviced by budget airlines, although the services change rapidly and new ones become available all of the time. At the time of writing, direct flights to the country’s capital, Ljubljana, could be had from Stansted, Luton, Paris, Berlin, Vienna, Brussels, Copenhagen and many other cities in Europe. Flying from outside Europe, however, you’ll need to head to one of the other regional hubs such as Venice, Trieste or Graz. The advantage of Slovenia is that, being small, it doesn’t take long to get from one of these hubs to the trails. From Venice, it’s about two hours by car to Slovenia; from Graz it’s about one hour; and Trieste is virtually on the border.

Always check with your airline, before you book, how much it will cost to transport your bike. Prices and provision can vary and some of the budget airlines, in particular, can be a little tricky in the way the information is presented on their websites. You may choose to leave the bike at home, which shouldn’t be a problem as all of the main trail areas have good bike-hire available.

Taking the train

If you’re heading to Slovenia from one of the outer edges of Europe, catching the train is a relatively quick way of getting there without the hassle of airports and baggage limits. The simplest route from the UK is to take the Eurostar to Paris and from there to Strasbourg. From Strasbourg, there is an overnight train to Vienna and from there it’s just a short trip to Jesenice in Slovenia and the heart of the mountains. The whole trip is less than two days. Other options from other parts of Europe are also possible but entry into the north at Jesenice or into Brežice from Zagreb are the easiest by far.

Always check the provision for bicycle carriage with the train companies before travelling as it can vary widely between countries – and even within them, depending on the type of service.

Driving

If you have the time, driving to Slovenia might be the best option if you have a lot to carry or you’re heading there from a country not too far away.

The roads across most of Europe are excellent and Slovenia is well serviced with border entries along highways. You can enter from Italy at Gorizia or Trieste, from Austria at Villach, Wolfsberg or Graz, from Hungary into Lendava and from Croatia at a number of points. Of course, as Slovenia is in the Schengen zone, none of these crossings requires a passport. If cost or time is an issue, you can sleep in your vehicle at many of the motorway service stations along the way; this is commonly done on the continent and many of the stops have shower facilities.

Getting around

Assuming you haven’t driven there, once you’re in Slovenia it is perfectly possible to get about by public transport. However, it can be inconvenient for a mountain biker, particularly in rural areas. The buses don’t always go exactly where you need them to and, in any case, can’t carry a bike. The trains are good in Slovenia but there aren’t many rail lines and they don’t often go near the areas that we require, except for major towns such as Jesenice, Bled, Postojna or Maribor. The best option, therefore, is probably to hire a car.

It’s best to book a car before you leave home as great savings can be made by shopping around on online price comparison sites. Cars can be rented from all of the major cities in Slovenia (and some of the minor ones) as well as at airports and some train stations. If you’re flying in to Italy or Austria and then planning to drive into Slovenia, do check in the rental terms and conditions that cross-border travel is allowed. Check also the cost of renting extra items such as bike racks, as this won’t be included in the main agreement.

Information about trains within Slovenia can be found at www.slo-zeleznice.si/en and buses on the Slovenia tourist information site at www.slovenia.info/en. A good car rental comparison site is www.holidayautos.com.

When to go

Slovenia is an extremely beautiful country at any time of the year but there are better times than others for mountain biking. The country is at its absolute best during spring and autumn (from the end of April until June and from September until the end of October). These also happen to be the cheapest times to visit. Summer will find many more services open, especially up in the mountains, but it can get pretty hot at times: 30 degrees is usual. Winter is likely to be too cold for all but the lowest rides. Even then, there is a good chance of standing snow in January and February.

Autumn can throw up some surprise conditions at this altitude (Route 8)

Accommodation

Tourism is one of Slovenia’s main industries and most of the rather functional hotels of the Socialist days are now gone or refurbished. As a consequence, there is a great deal of excellent accommodation available, from well-equipped campsites to five star hotels and everything in between. Again, price comparison sites are the best place to find deals on hotels, B&Bs and pensions (guest houses), but if you’re looking for a hostel or a campsite, then the official tourist site, www.slovenia.info, has a lot of good information – including a section on accommodation specialising in cyclists (kolesarski). These specialist hotels and B&Bs are denoted by a system of cycle symbols: the more there are, the better the facilities. Another option that many people are trying nowadays is Airbnb (www.airbnb.com), where local people rent out their spare rooms or holiday homes. Some great bargains are available.

These places are a good starting point for searching for accommodation, but there will also be some of my own personal recommendations in each of the region sections. For additional information, see Appendix B.

A friendly welcome at a traditional Slovenian hotel

Food and drink

If you have any concerns about the quality of the food in a former Socialist country, then please don’t. You’ll find a selection of excellent restaurants in most towns. There won’t be a wide variety of cuisines available (for example, outside of Ljubljana, you’re unlikely to find a curry) – a quirk of the relative lack of racial diversity in the country. However, you will find Italian, Hungarian and Serbian dishes, and the local cuisine tends to be hearty (if not always healthy) alpine food. There are usually good vegetarian options too.

New twists on old classics in Slovenian cuisine

Lunch is usually the main meal of the day for Slovenes, and a great option for a filling meal is kosilo. Often offered at restaurants and hotels, kosilo is a set menu with a soup to start, a help-yourself salad bar and a filling main course. They represent great value.

The water from the taps in Slovenia is good to drink and there is also an excellent locally-based mineral water company, Radenska. The mountains are predominantly limestone, so it is sometimes difficult to find water en route. It can be expensive to buy bottled water in the mountains, so do fill up before heading off.

A brief water break by the River Nadiža (Route 10)

Of course, after the ride, there is also great beer and wine. For beer (pivo), the locals mostly drink either Laško or Union; however, many microbreweries have sprung up in recent years offering excellent alternatives. Wine (vino) has been a part of Slovenian culture since the Roman times and they make excellent demi-sec whites and fresh, interesting reds.

Language

The language of Slovenia is, not surprisingly, Slovene. It’s a very close relative of Serbo-Croat, the old language of Yugoslavia, and English-speaking visitors are unlikely to find anything familiar in it. Not to fear, however; not only is there a handy glossary at the back of this book (see Appendix A) but, in almost all parts of Slovenia, English is spoken very well by the locals. You really shouldn’t have a problem, but you may feel that a pocket guide to the language would be a useful addition to your luggage.

Money

Since joining the European Union in 2004, Slovenia has used the Euro as its currency. There are several banks in Slovenia, most of which have a branch in the major towns. Smaller towns are likely only to have a branch of the local bank, but there will be an ATM so you’re pretty much guaranteed to be able to get money out in all but the smallest of towns. Alternatively, most places, including many of the mountain huts, will accept card payments.

Slovenia is cheap, especially outside of the tourist traps of Bled and Ljubljana. Expect to pay around €2 for a beer; a coffee (served as an espresso unless you stipulate otherwise) will be about €1.50; a pizza is around €6; a kosilo will be around about €10–15, as will a main course at dinner time. Of course, you can pay more than this at smart restaurants and hotels, but there shouldn’t be any need. Bike parts may be a touch more expensive relative to food. Generally, an inner tube will cost around €3–6 and a bottle of lube around €7; in other words, about the same as much of Europe.

Equipment

If you’re planning a mountain bike holiday abroad, you’re probably already pretty au fait with the gear that you need for a day’s riding. However, as a recap and a potential aide memoire for those who might be riding in the high mountains for the first time, here are some recommendations on kit.

Bike

Bike hire in Slovenia is pretty easy and relatively cheap. There are a number of options for hire, and some suggestions will be made at the beginning of each region section.

Always perform a pre-ride bike check. This is especially important when travelling overseas as you have either transported your bike (and thus dismantled and reassembled it) or you’ve hired a bike with which you might not be familiar. If you’re not sure how to go about a pre-ride check, it’s worth looking up the ‘M-Check’ on the internet. This is a thorough going-over that you give your bike which traces a rough ‘M’ shape around the bike and will help you to remember all the parts you need to review.

A hardtail suitable for the Slovenian trails

Clothing

If you’re a regular road-rider, you might think that the most important decision about clothing is the colour scheme. Mountain bikers tend to be a bit more pragmatic, and practicality has to play a greater part in decision-making.

I would suggest the following are essential pieces of clothing:

 helmet – well fitted and less than five years old. If there is any visible wear it should be discarded, and if the helmet has been involved in an accident, even if there is no visible damage, it should be replaced.

 gloves – to prevent injury in the event of a fall and to protect from the cold if necessary.

 shoes – sturdy outdoor shoes at least, but ideally specialist shoes with an inflexible sole.

 glasses – to protect the eyes from sunlight as well as mud and stones; a pair with interchangeable lenses for different light conditions is ideal.

 padded shorts – either close-fitting or baggy to provide comfort for your day in the saddle.

In addition, comfortable, quick-drying clothes will make your ride more pleasant and it is always worth packing a spare warm layer for the mountaintops and a lightweight waterproof for the occasional shower.

Some people – especially those who are into downhill – would also consider wearing body armour. I would say it wasn’t essential kit unless you’re intending to ride specific downhill routes that tend to be very technical and come with a high chance of falling off.

Everything else

Riding a mountain bike can take you to fairly remote spots, so self-sufficiency is important. A tool kit is vital to get you out of common mechanical problems and as a minimum it should include:

 a couple of spare inner tubes

 tyre-levers

 a pump

 a compact bike tool with a range of Allen keys

 a chain tool and spare link

Trailside repairs aren’t so bad under these conditions (Route 10)

Mountain biking can be dangerous. Carrying a first aid kit is not only a sensible precaution, but I would count it as essential. It needn’t be large but it should contain the following:

 sterile wipes for wound cleaning

 plasters/band-aids

 larger wound dressings (self-adhesive)

 triangular bandage (for slings and limb immobilisation)

 antiseptic

 paracetamol (or other painkiller)

 rehydration sachets

 fully charged mobile phone (local emergency number 112)

 EHIC (European Health Insurance Card), which allows access to local health services for free

Of course, it’s also important to know what to do with these items so, if you don’t already know, book yourself onto a first aid course.

Finally, food and drink are, obviously, essential additions to your backpack. You may have to carry your lunch with you if the route doesn’t take you past any hostelries but, in any case, you should always carry a few high-energy snacks with you as well as plenty of water. In the Alps of Slovenia, where it can be both hot and frustratingly free of streams, at least two litres would be a sensible precaution.

Waymarking

Many of the rides in this book make mention of waymarked routes and cycle route signs. While there is a wealth of marked routes, these signs cannot be relied on in general. The local municipalities are responsible for creating, maintaining and signing cycle routes; many of the municipalities are very good at this but, frustratingly, there is no national system for signage. So in Kobarid you might be following a blue circle with a white bike in it, and in Vipava you might be following a stylised orange cyclist. If you check in at the local tourist information centres they will be able to give you a good idea of how extensive the network of marked routes is in that area.

Signage varies depending on the municipality

Maps

The maps in this book have all been provided by Kartografija and are extracts of their series of 1:75,000 scale maps, reproduced at a scale of 1:50,000 for ease of use. When a map is referenced at the beginning of each route, it is the Kartografija 1:75,000 that is being named. These are the maps I would recommend that you carry, and there are only eight of them to cover the entire country. However, there are also 1:50,000 and 1:25,000 scale maps available from both Kartografija and from Geodetski Zavod Slovenije (the national geological survey). All of these can be bought from Amazon or a specialist map shop such as Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk).

In addition, you might want to go paper-free and use your smartphone for additional navigational help. There are a number of apps available for this purpose but, in most cases, you will have to buy the map of Slovenia from the service provider. One example is ViewRanger GPS (iOS and android); the app shows you in real time (on very clear maps) where you are and you can create routes. The whole of Slovenia can be bought at 1:50,000 for US$42.99.

Emergency situations

Should the worst happen, it is vital you know what to do. All across Europe, the emergency services number is 112, and from this you can access the fire service, ambulances and emergency vets. The police are on 113 and mountain rescue on 140. In all cases, the calls can be held in English. For all likely bike-related incidents, this should cover you but it is also worth noting that should you have a car accident, as a foreigner, you will need to call the police. If it’s not an emergency, the contact details of medical centres can be found in Appendix C; there will always be English speakers in those centres.

It makes sense to get travel insurance for any trip to Slovenia. While there is reciprocal health care through the European Health Insurance Card or EHIC (for the time being at least – Brexit may alter this), it is always a good idea to take out extra insurance. This could also include third party liability and protection for your bike if you’re taking it.

Using this guide

Each region described in this guide has its own distinctive feel, as we’ll see shortly. However, this guide is designed for riders with a general interest in mountain biking. There aren’t many rides for the absolute beginner in here, but then there aren’t many rides for the hardcore extremist either. Most of the routes included fall into the cross-country style of riding and, while they often require a decent level of fitness, they generally aren’t too technical.

The regions

This guide has been split into four regions to cluster rides together. These regions are a touch artificial but they do give an idea of which rides are accessible from where. Slovenia is a small country; you could drive right across it in less than a day. However, to make journeys shorter, you may wish to base yourself in one region and do the rides within it. Alternatively, if you happen to be on holiday in Slovenia and you fancy a day out riding, these regions give you a rough idea of what’s accessible from wherever you’re staying.

The routes

Each ride is written as a self-contained, circular route with a place to park at the start and returning to the car at the end. All the salient information about the route, such as distance, height gained and grade, is presented at the beginning in its own box. There is also a profile to give you an idea of the route’s hills and descents, but please note that the scales on each profile are not necessarily the same as any of the other rides. Finally, there is the route description itself: pertinent directions presented in paragraphs that break the ride up into manageable chunks.

The grading

Each ride is given a grade similar to those used at British trail centres. Blue is easiest, followed by red and then black.

In Britain, however, the grade is largely to tell you only how technical the route is. In Slovenia, many of the routes are not especially technical but may become quite remote or require a high degree of physical fitness. The grades used in this book, therefore, can be summarised as follows:

technically not difficult and the route is not remote. Only a reasonable amount of fitness is required to complete this ride.

this route might have technical elements to it. It might require a higher level of fitness or it might take in more remote locations. There may be highly technical sections but they will be short and can be walked around.

this ride should only be tackled by people confident in their riding skills and their fitness. It is likely to be remote and to require a high level of fitness. There may, in addition, be highly technical sections.

ABBREVIATIONS AND SYMBOLS USED IN THE ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS

left

right

straight ahead

 Mentions of left and right (and left-hand and right-hand), other than specific directions, are given thus: ‘where the road curves to the right ignore the turning on your left-hand side, instead go onto a farm track’.

 Easy-to-miss paths are noted in bold green; warnings of steep, dangerous or possibly crowded routes in bold red.

 Place names in route descriptions that appear on their maps are noted in bold.

 Important signs along the way are noted in red italics in route descriptions.