Textiles of Southeast Asia
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Robyn Maxwell. Textiles of Southeast Asia
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Textiles of
Southeast Asia
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These long skirts of southern Lembata are no longer prominent as women's ceremonial costume. Nevertheless, the red-brown textiles are still highly valued items in the circulation of bride-wealth that accompanies marriage and other rites of passage, particularly funerals. At such ceremonial gatherings the participants restate their kinship alliances through appropriate male and female gifts. Skirts intended for marriage gifts must be worked only in handspun cotton and natural dyes. Since these valued textiles are stored between use, rarely worn, and never washed, bright but fugitive colours - such as the turmeric yellows and greens, and pale unsaturated pinks and blues - are frequently included. The patterning of the central field is a sign of the weaver's clan membership and the motifs are drawn from family heirlooms. The banded borders include the giant ray (mokum) and the boat with paddles (tena). These are important symbols in the coastal whaling community of Lamalera, and indicate that this cloth was probably woven there. Mid-twentieth century
tengkuluak woman's headcloth Minangkabau people, west Sumatra, Indonesia silk, cotton, natural dyes, gold thread supplementary weft weave 246.0 x 103.0 cm Australian National Gallery 1984.3187
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