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Zion National Park

In the far southwestern corner of Utah, very near where the Colorado Plateau meets the mountains and valleys of the Great Basin, lies Zion National Park, one of the gems of the national park system.

Within its 147,000 acres are landscapes of incredible beauty and infinite diversity. Sculptured cliffs towering thousands of feet above deeply incised canyons display a kaleidoscope of pastel hues, their color and brilliance changing before a viewer’s eyes with the changing light of the day.

As the seasons change, so does the face of Zion. Spring brings the melting of snow atop the plateaus. Where runoff waters reach the brink of the great cliffs, hundreds of waterfalls are born. Bright green leaves adorn the trees and shrubs, and wildflowers explode in incomparable color. Streambeds run bank-full until the searing heat and dryness of approaching summer sap their vigor.

With the onset of autumn, broadleaf trees paint the landscape with brilliant reds and golds that vie with the colorful cliffs for the viewers’ attention. The grip of winter blankets the land with its envelope of white, and decorates springs and seeps with icicle curtains.

Not only do the landscapes of Zion change with the passing seasons, but the land itself is in a state of constant change. Most of this change is imperceptible in a human lifetime, but at times the change is dramatic and obvious, as in rockfalls and landslides.

Zion National Park encompasses that part of the vast Markagunt Plateau, known as the Kolob Terrace, that forms the Virgin River watershed, southwest Utah’s largest tributary to the Colorado River. The Hurricane Cliffs bound the plateau on the west, forming the boundary between two major physiographic provinces: the Basin and Range Province to the west, and the Colorado Plateau stretching eastward to the Rocky Mountains.

The Markagunt is one of the most extensive of Utah’s high plateaus, roughly 70 by 30 miles. The southern half of its surface is incised by tributaries of the Virgin River. These tributary canyons, combined with the nature of the sedimentary rock layers through which they have eroded, are responsible for the magnificent scenery that visitors from all corners of the globe come to enjoy.

The North Fork of the Virgin has created a deep and narrow canyon of incomparable beauty. At its widest point, one-third mile separates the canyon walls, and at its narrowest, only 20 feet or so. Imposing buttes and towering crags crown the canyon’s cliffs, and from below they appear to be majestic mountain peaks. From the heights of the gently contoured plateau, however, viewers gain a different perspective of them. Up there, one quickly notices that the tops of these buttes and towering crags were at one time parts of the continuous level landscape of the plateau. They are simply now isolated from it by erosion.

Geologists have subdivided the Colorado Plateau physiographic province into a number of distinct units. Parts of Zion and Bryce lie within the Grand Staircase section, near the southern margin of the High Plateaus. True to its name, the Grand Staircase rises in a series of varicolored cliffs and broad plateaus from the north rim of the Grand Canyon to the Pink Cliffs high on the flanks of the Markagunt, Paunsaugunt and Aquarius plateaus. Each “step” contains vast wooded plateaus, and each “riser” exposes varicolored cliffs. The belt of cliffs forming the “riser” in Zion is the White Cliffs, composed of the Park’s dominant sedimentary rock layer, the Navajo Sandstone. The Vermilion Cliffs, composed of the Moenave and Kayenta formations, outcrop along the flanks of lower Zion Canyon. The youngest rise in this series of steps is the one at the edge of the highest of the southern High Plateaus—the Pink Cliffs of Cedar Breaks and Bryce Canyon.

Human History of Zion

Mankind has been in the Zion landscape from time immemorial. We know that the Ancestral Puebloans (formerly known as the Anasazi) dwelled here, attested to by their cliff houses in Parunuweap (“water that roars”) Canyon, their rock art, the abundance of chipping sites throughout the Park, and caves that bear reminders of ancient fires. Archaeologists also believe that people of the Fremont culture may have lived in the northern reaches of the Park.

Prehistoric people lived here from about 500 until their departure around 1200 to 1300. During that time they evolved from hunter-gatherers into farmers of corn, squash, and beans. Following their departure, the land we know as Zion remained largely unoccupied until the arrival of Mormon settlers during the mid-19th century. However, during that time scattered bands of Piutes inhabited the upper Virgin River valley, camping in areas that were later the sites of Mormon settlements, some of which remain as towns today. The Piutes utilized the Zion region for seasonal hunting and gathering forays, and some bands farmed in the valleys outside the Park. They did not, however, venture very far into the canyons.

It was the Piutes that early travelers and explorers encountered in southwest Utah. They contributed their geographical knowledge of the region, but were of little aid when Mormons later explored the forbidden (according to Piute superstition) depths of Zion Canyon. In 1850 a party of Mormons conducted explorations in the region to survey the possibility of establishing settlements on the Mormon frontier. The party returned with glowing reports of a mild climate and exceptional farmland, and Mormons were soon called upon by their leaders to settle the region.

During the early 1860s, a few Virgin River valley settlers began looking toward Zion Canyon in search of farmland. When Joseph Black visited the canyon during those years, he was impressed not only by the stark magnificence of the landscape, but also by the possibility of its cultivation.

As time passed, more settlers began to look toward Zion Canyon, not only for home sites but for its resources as well. Isaac Behunin is credited with bestowing the name “Zion” upon the canyon. Having endured Mormon persecution from the time the Mormons were driven from New York to their arrival in the proposed State of Deseret (Utah), he recognized the canyon as a final, safe refuge from harassment and persecution—hence the name Zion, “peaceful resting place.”

Following the exploration of Zion and Parunuweap canyons by Major John Wesley Powell in 1872, the virtually unknown region was finally put on the map, and that sparked interest in its unusual and spectacular landscape. But travel was difficult in those days, and only a handful of hardy travelers made the trek to Zion.

During the early years of Mormon settlement along the Virgin River, homes were built of stone supplemented by wood hauled in from northern Arizona. Extensive forests of ponderosa pine were near at hand atop the cliffs of Zion, but were virtually inaccessible. Brigham Young, the Mormon prophet, visited the Virgin River settlements in 1863 and proclaimed that one day a means would be discovered to transport timber from the plateaus to the valley below “like a hawk flies.”

The Draw Works atop Cable Mountain

After a youthful foray onto the plateau from Zion Canyon near Springdale, young David Flanigan and his three companions explored the forests of the plateau. With the knowledge of Young’s prophecy, Flanigan was to set in motion a series of events that would ultimately fulfill Young’s declaration and provide much-needed lumber to the Mormon settlements. Bales of wire were carried to the rim, and David Flanigan, with the help of his brother, began the long trial-and-error process of laying the wire for a lumber cable, attaching it to pulley structures at both the top and the bottom of the cliff. A year later they began sending loads down from the plateau via the cable.

The cable fell into disuse for lumber hauling between 1901 and 1904, but soon thereafter, Flanigan purchased a sawmill and moved it to the East Rim Plateau, probably near Stave Spring. During the following two years, 200,000 board feet of lumber were sawed on the plateau and transported over the cable to the canyon bottom. This lumber helped build structures along the Virgin River from Springdale to St. George, including the original Zion Lodge and its cabins. The cable was finally removed in 1930, and with the completion of the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel that same year, the cable works became obsolete.

After the turn of the century, Zion gained increased attention, and the idea spread of preserving it for future generations as a showcase of exceptional scenic and scientific value. First, Mukuntuweap National Monument was established on June 25, 1909. Soon after the establishment of the National Park Service in 1917, an automobile road, improving upon the old wagon road, was constructed as far as The Grotto. Finally in 1919, a bill was signed by President Wilson that changed the unpopular name of Mukuntuweap National Monument to Zion National Park and enlarged the area to 120 square miles. In 1937 the Kolob Section was established as Zion National Monument, and in 1956 it was added to the Park.

The road to Temple of Sinawava was completed in 1925, as were a number of foot trails. One problem remained—that of linking Zion by road with other scenic wonders in southern Utah and northern Arizona, including Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon. The 1.1-mile long Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel, truly a great engineering feat, was completed in 1930, cut just inside the Navajo Sandstone cliff face. Five galleries in it allowed early travelers to stop and enjoy rock-framed vistas of incomparable beauty, but today, stopping inside the tunnel is not allowed, for safety reasons.

Plants and Animals of Zion

Zion is home to 670 species of flowering plants and ferns, 95 species of mammals, 30 species of reptiles, and 125 species of birds. This vast array of life in Zion helps dispel the myth that a desert is barren and lifeless. True, the region is semiarid, with annual precipitation ranging from slightly more than 15 inches in the canyon to an estimated 21 inches atop the plateaus. But despite searing summer heat, Zion more than any other Utah national park has a relative abundance of water. More than a dozen canyons boast perennial streams, many nurtured by springs that issue from the Navajo Sandstone, a thick and porous layer that is a virtual stone reservoir. Not only do these streams provide delightful haunts for hikers, but their presence promotes the diversity of plant and animal life.

Elevations in the Park range from 3666 feet to 8740 feet, so a wide range of vegetation is represented. A life zone contains the plant communities that are typically found within its range of elevation and precipitation. For example, the Transition Life Zone in Zion contains the ponderosa-pine and mountain-brush plant communities, and occasionally members of the fir and aspen communities as well. Life zones often overlap altitudinally because particular combinations of soil cover, and exposure to sunlight, create microclimates here and there. Within the altitudinal range of the Park, plant communities range from sparse desert shrubs to cool forests of pine, fir and aspen. Blackbrush, yucca, and various species of cacti, mostly prickly-pear and beavertail cactus, dominate the shrublands in the Lower Sonoran Zone.

The Upper Sonoran Zone is widespread on drier sites, mostly in the lower-to-mid-elevations of the Park. Singleleaf pinyon and Utah juniper distinguish the pinyon-juniper woodland, and are the dominant tree species in this zone, well adapted to heat and drought. Two-needle pinyon and juniper dominate on mid-elevation slopes, and typical shrubs in this zone include buffaloberry, Utah serviceberry, squawbush, broom snakeweed, rabbitbrush, and shrub live oak. Littleleaf mountain mahogany, very similar in appearance to blackbrush, grows almost exclusively on slickrock in the upper limits of the zone. Gambel oak often mixes into the pinyon-juniper woodland, and it forms oak woodlands in wetter, protected sites in the canyons as well as extensive thickets atop the plateaus in the Transition Zone.

The Transition Zone is dominated by stands of ponderosa pine, frequently mixing with Gambel oak on the plateaus. Dominant shrubs here are greenleaf manzanita, alderleaf mountain mahogany, snowberry, and big sagebrush. Bigtooth maple is common in some areas, its foliage turning red or orange after the first autumn frosts. On well-drained sites, Rocky Mountain juniper is found mixing into the pine forests. Poorly drained sites on the plateaus contain mountain meadows, and even wetter sites have groves of quaking aspen.

The Canadian Zone is limited to well-watered slopes in the Park’s higher elevations, particularly near Lava Point and the buttes rising above the Kolob canyons. Ponderosa pine is present, but in lesser numbers than in the Transition Zone. The dominant tree here is white fir, while Douglas-fir occurs in the coolest, most protected sites. These trees are also found on sheltered sites far below on canyon walls where cooler microclimates prevail.

In most of the Park’s life zones, riparian vegetation occurs along streams, including the North Fork Virgin River, and in isolated patches along washes where water lies close to the surface. Fremont cottonwood is the dominant tree, and adding diversity to the riparian woodland are velvet ash, boxelder and netleaf hackberry.

Chipmunk

Hanging gardens, found growing on moist cliffs throughout Zion, are unusual sylvan oases in desert areas. Due to abundant seeps and springs, they are more widespread in Zion than in any other Utah national park. (For more about hanging gardens, see the “Plants and Animals” chapters for Capitol Reef, Arches, and Canyonlands.)

By late March or early April, an abundance of wildflowers bursts onto the scene, their colorful blossoms vying for the visitors’ attention with the colorful canyon walls. As spring changes to summer, more flowers bloom, but their colors are shortlived. Many early summer flowers fade as heat and dryness begin to dominate, and night-blooming flowers then begin to blossom.

Summer thunderstorms initiate Zion’s second most prolific blooming season. Even some spring flowers bloom again if summer rains are abundant. Yellow flowers seem to dominate the scene in late summer and fall.

A vast array of birds is found in Zion, representing 271 species, of which 125 remain year-round. Rufous-sided towhees, blue-gray gnatcatchers, and blackheaded grosbeaks are common denizens of forest habitats, while water ouzels, Say’s phoebes, great blue herons, and Calliope hummingbirds prefer an aquatic habitat. Roadrunners scurry across open desert, and golden eagles and red-tailed hawks soar on invisible air currents in search of prey. In the fall pinyon and scrub jays congregate in pinyon woodlands, feasting on pinyon nuts.

Reptiles are by far the most frequently encountered animals on Zion’s trails. These cold-blooded creatures are especially well-adapted to living in a semiarid environment. Of the 30 species of reptiles occurring in Zion, hikers will most commonly see the eastern fence lizard, likely doing “pushups” on a trailside boulder. Short-horned lizards and western skinks are also common.

Gopher snakes and whipsnakes are common in the drier areas, while the western garter snake prefers to stay close to water. The western rattlesnake is Zion’s only poisonous reptile, occurring in canyons and on dry slopes. They are rarely seen, however, and if given half a chance will usually slither away and hide.

Amphibians, of which only seven species occur in Zion, are infrequently seen, since they stay close to water sources and damp areas. Snails are an important part of Zion’s aquatic community. Most noteworthy is the Zion snail, a tiny invertebrate about the size of a pinhead. Endemic to Zion, this snail is found only along seeps and springs on the canyon walls of the Zion Narrows.

Fish inhabit many of Zion’s streams, including cutthroat trout and bluehead suckers. Fishing is poor, however, in the siltladen Virgin River.

Common Zion rodents are the desert cottontail, the pocket gopher, and the cliff chipmunk. The latter is particularly noticeable begging handouts from hikers in places such as Observation Point.

Fossil dinosaur track, Left Fork North Creek

One of the most common large mammals in Zion is the mule deer. They range from Zion Canyon to the plateaus. Rarely seen is their chief predator, the mountain lion. Occasionally, a Rocky Mountain elk wanders into the Park from the higher plateau to the north. Striped and spotted skunks, gray foxes, ringtails, mountain voles, and insect-eating bats also live in Zion, although most of them are seldom seen.

Finally, many hikers are well acquainted with the most abundant of life forms in the Park, insects. Mosquitoes, no-see-ums, and biting flies are real nuisances in spring and early summer and in some locations these annoying creatures persist well into autumn.

Interpretive Activities

Everyone’s first stop in Zion should be at the Visitor Center. Books, maps, backcountry permits for overnight hiking, weather reports, interpretive displays, and schedules of interpretive programs are available there. Park rangers on duty are veritable encyclopedias of information. Zion’s Visitor Center is the largest and most complete such facility in all of Utah’s national parks, and your experience in the Park will be greatly enriched by a stop.

During the peak tourist season, roughly from late March through early November, Visitor Center hours are 8 A.M.–9 P.M.. Winter hours are 8 A.M.–5 P.M. Evening programs at South Campground’s Amphitheater and naturalist programs at the Visitor Center are conducted from spring through fall. Children’s programs are conducted twice daily at the Nature Center, near the campground amphitheater, from Memorial Day through Labor Day. Parents can leave their children here and enjoy a short hike in the canyon.

Ranger-guided hikes include Riverside Walk; up the Narrows to Orderville Canyon; Angels Landing; the Emerald Pools Trail to Middle Pool; the Watchman Trail; the Canyon Overlook Trail; and naturalists-choice hikes.

Springdale, Utah, located at the mouth of Zion Canyon just south of the Park’s south entrance, offers a full line of services for Park visitors. Hikers, however, are advised to come prepared, since there is little hiking equipment or backpack food available in town. Springdale has several motels, restaurants, gas stations, and grocery stores. The communities of St. George, Hurricane, Kanab, and Cedar City also have a wide array of services and accommodations. Hospitals are located in St. George, Kanab, and Cedar City.

Campgrounds

The private Zion Canyon Campground, a short distance south of the South Entrance, offers a spacious, shady campground with tent sites and full hookups for RVs. Hot showers, a laundry, and a market are also available.

Zion has two large campgrounds, one of which remains open through the winter. Watchman and South campgrounds are located a short distance north of the South Entrance. Overnight camping fees are collected at the self-registration station at each campground.

Watchman Campground is Zion’s largest, with 246 campsites on a bench above North Fork Virgin River at 3900 feet. Young boxelders, velvet ash, netleaf hackberry, and Fremont cottonwoods shade campers, but are still small enough to allow fine views of the canyon walls, including the fluted cliffs of The Watchman and Bridge Mountain. South Campground, at 3950 feet, is considerably smaller, with 141 campsites. Large netleaf hackberry and Fremont cottonwood provide ample shade for campers at this pleasant riverside campground. These two campgrounds often fill by early- to mid-afternoon during the spring-through-fall peak season, so come early if you plan to camp here.

Lava Point Campground is a stark contrast to the desert-like campgrounds in Zion Canyon. It rests atop the lava-capped mesa of Lava Point at 7900 feet. This is a primitive campground, and since no water is provided, no fee is charged. Its six campsites are shaded by white fir, ponderosa pine, aspen, and Gambel oak. Views from the campsites are limited to the peaceful forest that surrounds it.

Wood gathering in the Park is prohibited, so if you want to build a fire in the grills provided at each campground, bring your own.

Zion has two developed picnic sites. The Grotto Picnic Area is on the shady canyon floor between Red Arch Mountain and The Spearhead. A large parking area serves the spacious picnic area, elevation 4290 feet. The Kolob Canyons Viewpoint (elevation 6300 feet) at the roadend in the Kolob section of Zion also boasts a small but delightful picnic area. Nestled against a hillside in a woodland of pinyon and juniper, this site offers some of the most dramatic views in all of the Park.

Visitors are free to picnic wherever they wish in the Park, but everyone should be sure to pack out all their trash, including orange and banana peels—these biodegradable items will not decompose in the arid desert climate.

Zion Lodge offers a variety of services and accommodations. A motel, motel suites, and western cabins are available for an overnight stay, but guests are advised to make reservations four to six months in advance. The lodge is open all year. A restaurant and a gift shop are here. Guided tram tours are available, and arrangements for horseback rides along the Sand Bench Trail and information on the shuttle service for hikers are also available at Zion Lodge.

For further information:

Park information:

Park Superintendent

Zion National Park

Springdale, UT 84767

(435) 772-3256

Information regarding the private Zion Canyon Campground:

Zion Canyon Campground

P.O. Box 99

Springdale, UT 84767

(435) 772-3237

Information regarding Zion Lodge:

TW Services, Inc.

P.O. Box 400

Cedar City, UT 84721

(435) 586-7686 (individuals) or

(435) 586-7624 (groups)

Hiking in Zion

The trail network of Zion National Park provides a wide array of hiking opportunities to satisfy anyone wishing to park the car and experience this magnificent landscape at a leisurely pace. Ranging from paved 5-minute strolls to backpack trips of several days, Zion’s more than 100 miles of trails sample virtually every aspect of the Park. Boasting more than 5000 feet of vertical relief, scenery along Zion’s trails includes vast plateaus clad in pine, fir, and aspen; deep and narrow canyons that lie in eternal shadow; sun-baked expanses of open desert; lofty vista points; pinyon-juniper woodlands; and the green spreads of lava-rimmed meadows.

However, one feature of Zion that makes the Park stand out above all other national parks in Utah is the availability of water. Few trails lack water somewhere along their courses. The length of a backpack trip in some of the drier parks, such as Canyonlands and Capitol Reef, is limited by the amount of water one is able to carry. But hikers in Zion have greater flexibility in planning the length of their stay in the backcountry.

As in all of Utah’s national parks (and in any backcountry area), hikers are strongly advised to purify all the water they obtain from backcountry sources, as signs at all major springs suggest. Some streams, including La Verkin Creek and North Fork Virgin River and their tributaries, are fouled by the wastes of sheep and cattle that graze in their headwaters. So don’t take the chance of contracting a miserable intestinal infection; always purify any open water you obtain in the backcountry.

Not only is there a wide variety of scenery awaiting hikers, but the trails themselves vary greatly. Some are faint paths seldom trod by Park visitors, while others are paved and frequently used. Some of Zion’s shorter paved trails offer access to wheelchairs and even baby strollers. There are cliff-hanging trails that are intermittently paved where they were blasted into steep cliffs of Navajo Sandstone, providing sure footing on what otherwise would be a sandy, slippery, dangerous trail.

Although thousands of backpackers enjoy Zion’s backcountry each year, they represent only a small fraction of the 2.5 million visitors who annually vacation in the Park. Hikers can still enjoy solitude amid breath-taking majesty of this beautiful and unique park by following lesser-used trails or hiking in the off-season. Solitude seekers will want to avoid holiday weekends, spring vacation, and the peak tourist season in May and June. The trails of Zion Canyon then receive the heaviest use, though primarily by dayhikers.

As snows fall, melt, and refreeze on winter nights, many of Zion’s cliff-hanging trails become treacherous. Winter hikes are still possible, depending upon trail conditions, but lower-elevation hikes, such as the Watchman Trail (Trip 2) and the Chinle Trail (Trip 1) are attractive alternatives during the snow season.

The bulk of Zion’s 147,000 acres is proposed for wilderness designation. Within the Park are three pristine areas with a total of 126,585 acres.

Zion Canyon

Common-sense rules of desert hiking apply in the backcountry of this diverse Park, as they do for hiking elsewhere on the Colorado Plateau. Lightning, flash floods, rockfall, and dehydration, to name but a few hazards, are always possible and should not be taken lightly (see the chapter “Hiking Utah’s Desert Parks”). Novice hikers who may be uncomfortable hiking the trails on their own, and anyone wishing to gain a better appreciation of the natural history of the Park, can take advantage of naturalistled hikes on many of Zion’s shorter trails. Schedules of guided hikes are posted at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center.

Car shuttles are necessary to complete many of Zion’s trails and avoid retracing your route. Hikers with only one vehicle have two options. Inside the Zion Canyon Visitor Center hikers will find a “shuttle board.” This allows hikers to coordinate their hike with another party wishing to hike the same trail and establish a car shuttle. Also, a commercial shuttle service is offered by Zion Lodge.

Weather in Zion, though often pleasant, can range from extremes of heat and drought to bitter cold, snow and severe thunderstorms. Annual precipitation ranges from an estimated 21 inches atop the plateaus to 15 inches in Zion Canyon, and recorded temperature extremes range from 115-degrees F. to 15-degrees below zero F. Two pronounced wet seasons occur in Zion, the first from winter to early spring, and the second, dominated by thunderstorms, from mid to late summer. Each season in Zion is as distinctive as it is beautiful. Whatever time of year you visit the Park, you are sure to return home filled with vivid memories of a unique landscape.

In addition to the standard nationalpark regulations listed at the beginning of this book, there are a few special restrictions applying to Zion’s backcountry:

 Backcountry permits are required for all overnight hikes, trips through The Narrows and its tributary canyons, and for the Left Fork North Creek (The Subway). There is a fee of $5 per person, per night for overnight trips, and $5 per day for day trips through narrow canyons (including The Subway, Zion Canyon Narrows, Orderville Canyon). Permits can be obtained in person, no more than 3 days in advance of your trip, at either the Zion Canyon or Kolob Canyons visitor centers. For through hikes in The Narrows, permits are available only at Zion Canyon Visitor Center.

 Open fires are prohibited in all backcountry areas. Hikers should be sure to carry a backpack stove for all their cooking needs.

 Large groups of 12 or more hikers are prohibited from travelling on the same backcountry trail or in the same drainage on the same day.

 Camping in The Narrows is limited to one night, and is restricted to hikers making the two-day trip downstream from Chamberlain’s Ranch.

 Backpackers are restricted to camping in designated campsites along the La Verkin Creek Trail, Willis Creek Trail, and Hop Valley Trail in the Kolob Canyons Area; along the West Rim Trail; and in The Narrows. Campsites may be established wherever you wish in the Southwest Desert and East Rim areas, provided the sites are out of sight and sound of trails, at least 0.25 mile from springs, and at least 100 feet from other water sources. (Request a copy of the Backcountry Trip Planner from the Park, which includes regulations, no trace guidelines, and a map showing areas that are open and closed to backcountry camping.)

Driving to Zion’s Trailheads

A sightseeing drive through Zion National Park can be an enchanting and humbling experience in itself. Such a trip can be a scenic stepping stone enroute to any of the Park’s hiking trails, as marvelous roadside scenery gives exciting intimations of even more incredible scenery in the backcountry.

Utah Highway 9 transects the Park, roughly east to west, and it is the primary Park road. Other roads—the Kolob Terrace Road, the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, and the North Fork Road—branch off Utah 9 and bisect magnificent country while passing numerous trailheads. The Kolob Canyons Section of the Park is accessed from Interstate 15 between St. George and Cedar City, Utah. Driving directions below for trailheads in Zion follow Utah 9 from west to east. Hikers traveling westbound on that highway should reverse these directions to pinpoint Utah 9 trailheads.

The Zion Canyon Transportation System

To alleviate congestion and gridlock in Zion Canyon during the season of peak use, the Zion Canyon Transportation System was implemented in the spring of 2000. The 7-mile-long Zion Canyon Scenic Drive from the Utah Highway 9 at Canyon Junction to Temple of Sinawava will be closed to private vehicles from mid-May through October each year. The Scenic Drive is open to private vehicles during the remainder of the year.

Between mid-May and October, the first half of the Scenic Drive from Canyon Junction to Zion Lodge will be open only to hikers, bicyclists, shuttle vehicles, private vehicles of overnight lodge guests, and Zion Lodge tour busses. From the lodge to the road’s end at Temple of Sinawava, use will be restricted to hikers, bicyclists, and shuttle busses. Shuttle busses will offer access to the following stops on the Scenic Drive: Canyon Junction, Court of the Patriarchs, Zion Lodge, Grotto Picnic Area, Weeping Rock, Big Bend, and Temple of Sinawava.

Visitors staying in or near Springdale can access the shuttle busses at several developed shuttle stops. Park visitors can access the shuttle system from the Visitor Center/Transit Center adjacent to Watchman Campground. Contact Zion National Park for more information.)

Utah Highway 9 trailheads for Trips 1, 2, 12, and 13

If you are traveling from the south via Interstate 15, take the Utah Highway 9 exit, 10 miles north of St. George, which is signed for Zion National Park, and proceed 11 miles through the town of Hurricane to La Verkin. From the north, take the Toquerville exit off Interstate 15 and drive southeast on Utah 17 for 6 miles to La Verkin and the junction with Utah 9.

(0.0) Drive east from La Verkin on Utah Highway 9. Beyond the small town of Virgin, a paved road (6.1) branches north at the east end of the town, signed for Kolob Reservoir. Hikers bound for Trips 17–21 should refer to the road log below (Kolob Terrace Road).

Beyond Virgin the road stays north of the Virgin River while following its canyon upstream, passing lush green hayfields and stock pastures.

(6.5; 12.6) The highway bridges usually dry Coalpits Wash. Just east of the bridge, a dirt road leaves the north side of the highway and descends to a camping area next to the wash. A hikers’ gate through the fence here offers hiking access into the wash and an alternative route to the Petrified Forest area (see Trip 1).

(1.2; 13.8) The highway bridges the dry course of Huber Wash. A large pulloff just before the bridge offers parking for a crosscountry hike up that wash. The Chinle Trail (Trip 1) crosses the wash 2 miles upstream.

(1.7; 15.5) Leave the east end of Rockville at milepost 28.

(0.9; 16.4) A paved, northbound road, signed ANASAZI PLATEAU ESTATES, branches left from the highway. Hikers bound for Trip 1 should turn left (north) onto the steeply rising road. After 0.1 mile, at the first switchback in the road, turn right and proceed several hundred yards to the spacious parking area at Trailhead 1 where Trip 1 begins.

Almost immediately beyond that turnoff we pass a large turnout on the north side of the highway, then curve northeast, entering Zion Canyon. Parunuweap Canyon, a deep gorge through which flows the Virgin River’s East Fork, is a deep, gaping chasm, approaching the proportions of Zion Canyon. That canyon is closed to entry.

The road stays west of North Fork Virgin River as we proceed into incomparable Zion Canyon.

(2.2; 18.6) Entering scenic Springdale, a small town wedged between the towering cliffs of Mount Kinesava and The Watchman. A variety of services are available to meet the needs of most Park visitors, but hiking and backpacking supplies are limited. Scattered homes line the remaining distance to

(1.3; 19.9) the Park boundary and the Park’s South Entrance Station. An entry fee is collected here, good for access to the Park for seven consecutive days. We immediately pass the entrance to Watchman Campground and the Visitor Center on our right.

To reach the Watchman Trail we turn right (east) at that junction, bridge the North Fork Virgin River, and soon come to the spacious parking lot at the Visitor Center (0.2; 20.1) where hikers taking Trip 2 park at Trailhead 2.

(0.8; 20.7) The Zion Museum turnoff lies on the west side of the highway. Up-canyon beyond the museum, the road soon turns abruptly east, bridges the North Fork, and meets

(0.0; 21.6) northbound Zion Canyon Scenic Drive at Canyon Junction. Hikers bound for Trips 3 through 11 will turn left here, driving their own vehicles from November through mid-May, and riding the shuttle bus between mid-May and the end of October, and refer to the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive road log below, while the rest follow Highway 9 into Pine Creek canyon. The road climbs at once into the lower reaches of the canyon before switchbacking up its north-facing slope.

(3.4; 25.0) Enter the mountain at the mouth of the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel. The 1.1-mile-long tunnel, completed in 1930, was an engineering feat of grand proportions. It finally linked the communities along the lower Virgin River with the isolated upper Virgin River and Sevier River valley communities in south-central Utah. On our way through the lighted tunnel, we pass five galleries in which earlier travelers could stop and view the magnificent scenery on the “outside.”

Checkerboard Mesa, seen from Highway 9

(1.1; 26.1) Immediately beyond the tunnel a spacious parking area on the roadway’s southeast side offers parking for Trip 12 hikers at Trailhead 9. Beyond the tunnel it seems as if we had entered another world. The red pavement winds eastward, following above the typically dry course of Clear Creek, a Pine Creek tributary.

(1.4; 27.5) After a few minutes of driving, we pass through a second, much shorter tunnel. The entire area traversed by the highway is excellent for short exploratory hikes into any of the northwest- and southeast-trending branch canyons. Numerous turnouts along the way make good starting points for such forays, and some of them have interpretive signs explaining various aspects of the landscape.

(3.5; 31.0) A northwest-bound paved spur road, signed for RANGER RESIDENCE and TRAILHEAD, leaves the highway here and climbs 300 yards to Trailhead 10, where Trip 13 begins. The pinyon- and juniper-shaded parking area has space for approximately 10 cars. Westbound drivers will find the trailhead turnoff 14.5 miles from Mt. Carmel Junction.

Drivers bound for Trips 14–16 will continue east on Highway 9, passing the East Entrance station 100 yards beyond the Trip 13 trailhead turnoff. The road then ascends the valley of the Co-Op Creek drainage, wedged between mesas that are notably lower in stature than those behind us.

(0.7; 31.7) Upon leaving Zion National Park, red pavement gives way to typical blacktop.

North Fork Road, Trips 14–16

This road, signed NORTH FORK, branches north from Utah Highway 9, 1.7 miles east of the Park’s east boundary, and 12.8 miles west of Mt. Carmel Junction. Eastbound drivers will locate the turnoff 50 feet east of milepost 46 on Highway 9.

(0.0) Driving north on this road, we find the first 5.4 miles to be paved, and the remainder a good graded dirt road.

(0.2) From spring through fall, a roadside sign reminds hikers bound for The Narrows that a permit is required for the trip.

(5.0; 5.2) To gain access to the trailheads for Trips 15 and 16, turn left (west) where a sign indicates ZION-PONDEROSA RANCH AND RESORT.

Almost at once we pass beneath an archway, ignoring a left turn at once signed for CHECK-IN. The roads we follow ahead are public roads across private property. Respect landowner’s rights as you proceed. Our road continues generally northwest. Enroute ignore three left-branching, lesser-used roads leading to cabins.

(0.7; 5.9) At a major junction, turn left onto Buck Road, where a sign points to Cable Mountain. Drivers bound for Trip 15 should refer to directions below to locate their trailhead. After about 100 feet we must bear right, following a rough and rocky road through charred vegetation.

(0.6; 6.5) Turn left (south) here, staying on Buck Road, at the junction where Beaver Road branches right (west); then after another 100 feet turn right (west) onto signed Pine Street, where a sign indicates Gooder-Reagan.

Just pass a pair of summer cabins, our westbound road becomes extremely rough and rocky, and ahead the road is rutted with a high center, and is passable only to high-clearance vehicles. We avoid numerous spur roads, posted as private property, as we proceed west.

(0.5; 7.0) Continue straight ahead (west) at the junction with northbound Oak Road.

Presently our rough, narrow road declines to a Park service gate

(0.1; 7.1), where there is room for one vehicle. However, we can pass through the gate (closing it behind us) to where two cars can be parked just short of the post barricade at Trailhead 11, where Trip 14 begins.

(0.7; 5.9) Parting company with drivers bound for Trip 14 via Buck Road at the major junction, we bear right (northwest) onto signed Twin Knolls Road, also signed for Observation Point.

Climbing to a saddle north of a broad hill, ignore northeast-bound Pine Knoll Road (0.5; 6.4) just over the top.

Descending over the broad plateau, we intersect a north-south road at a T-intersection (0.3; 6.7) and turn right, following the sign to Observation Point. Avoiding several left-forking roads to summer cabins as we proceed north, we cross the upper reaches of the Echo Canyon drainage, and meet southwest-bound Fir Road in a sagebrushclad opening (0.9; 7.6), and continue straight ahead (west) on Beaver Road. Drivers of low-clearance cars should park near this junction and begin their hike here; the poor road ahead requires a high-clearance vehicle.

(0.3; 7.9) Ignore a left fork here, following the sign pointing to Observation Point, and proceed past faint left and right forks, staying on the “main” road. We finally reach a fence and a locked gate at the Park boundary

(0.4; 8.3) at Trailhead 12. A hiker’s maze just south of the locked gate marks the beginning of Trip 15.

(5.2) Resuming our drive northbound on the North Fork Road, we traverse the slopes of a vast rolling plateau, soon reaching the end of pavement (0.2; 5.4). Dipping into Bull Hollow, we ignore a private east-bound road (6.6; 12.0) into another parcel of the extensive Zion-Ponderosa Resort, and stay left. Quite soon we descend into the upper drainage of Orderville Gulch (0.2; 12.2). Climbing out of Orderville Gulch we ignore another road (0.8; 13.0), that branches right, once again leading into Zion-Ponderosa Resort land.

(3.6; 16.6) At length we reach a bridge over the Virgin River’s North Fork, and immediately thereafter meet a junction with the road to Navajo Lake, 16 miles to the right, where our road branches left to the Zion Narrows Trail (so signed). This road proceeds westward on the north side of the river to a gate and a drift fence (0.5; 17.1) delineating the Chamberlain’s Ranch property. A sign here reminds us of flash-flood danger, and that we can look forward to a minimum 10-hour hike to the Temple of Sinawava. Don’t forget to sign in at the trail register here, and be sure to close the gate before proceeding.

The remainder of the road to the trailhead is poor, rough and rutted, but a high-clearance vehicle will have no trouble. Continuing down the final stretch, avoid the spur (0.2; 17.3) branching left to the ranch house and quite soon ignore another road (0.1; 17.4) badly eroded, forking right. Not long afterward the road fords the North Fork (0.2; 17.6) and hikers taking Trip 16 park in one of the spaces north of the ford at Trailhead 13.

Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, Trips 3–11

This road should be traveled at a leisurely pace, allowing ample time to park in any of the several turnouts enroute to take a short walk or a longer hike, or to simply soak up the incredible scenery at hand.

(0.0) Junction of Zion-Mount Carmel Highway (Utah 9) and Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, also signed for Zion Lodge. More trailheads lie along the Scenic Drive than any other road in the Park. This part of the canyon is visited by the most people, and not all of them are here to hike. The drive allows those with limited time to experience the atmosphere of the canyon and the magnificence of the Park without ever leaving their cars.

Northbound on the Scenic Drive, we are at once flanked by a gargantuan, rubbly mass of slide debris (see Trip 3) that funnels the river here into a narrow, rocky channel. This huge mass of debris detached from the east wall of The Sentinel 4000 years ago and slumped into and dammed the canyon, forming Sentinel Lake, a large body of water that extended upstream to The Grotto picnic area. The dam is also believed to have been responsible for the impoundment of waters in lower Pine Creek along Highway 9.

(1.6) Parking for Court of the Patriarchs at Trailhead 3. Trips 3 and 4 begin here on opposite sides of the road.

(0.9; 2.5) Avoiding a right fork, signed EMPLOYEES ONLY and leading to the Zion Lodge, we quite soon encounter a left turn

(0.1; 2.6), signed EMERALD POOLS and HORSE CORRAL. Hikers taking Trip 5 will park in the spacious Trailhead 4 parking area on the west side of the road. A spur trail connecting with Trip 3 allows alternate access to the Sand Bench Trail, and the two trips can be combined into a half-day hike. Opposite this trailhead turnoff is a spur leading to the guest parking area at Zion Lodge.

(0.2; 2.8) Another road forks right toward the lodge, signed GUEST REGISTRATION. Trip 6 begins from the northeast edge of that parking area at Trailhead 5.

Following a grassy bench and paralleling the trail from the lodge, we soon curve into The Grotto

(0.6; 3.4), where tall Fremont cottonwoods shade the commodious picnic area. Directly opposite is the Trailhead 6 parking area, where hikers taking Trips 7 and 8 will park, while Trip 6 leaves the picnic area, bound for the lodge.

Continuing past The Grotto, we soon skirt the base of what is arguably Zion’s premier monolith, The Great White Throne. We follow the river as it describes a huge semicircle, the Big Bend, around Angels Landing and its companion tower, The Organ. The 2000’ walls of the monolith rise abruptly from the canyon floor to the broad mesa that crowns it. Here it is too close for us to fully appreciate its dimensions, but a turnout farther ahead reveals its immense bulk to better advantage.

Numerous shady alcoves, of which Weeping Rock is the largest and wettest, are seen ahead as we proceed through grassy openings and among groves of cottonwood, boxelder, and velvet ash. Before the road doubles back along the Big Bend, the signed spur to Weeping Rock Parking Area

(1.2; 4.6) forks off to the right. Trips 9 and 10 begin from the Trailhead 7 parking area, which tends to become congested. The road ahead curves west beneath two gaping alcoves, passes north of a large turnout, and abruptly turns north where a roomy parking area for southbound drivers only

(0.6; 5.2) offers a grand view of The Great White Throne.

Upstream the canyon becomes increasingly narrow, and we soon enter a shady flat. Here we curve westward around another bend in the river and reach

(1.0; 6.2) the large and often congested Temple of Sinawava Parking Area, its namesake crag jutting above the parking area to the north. Popular Trip 11 begins at Trailhead 8, where Trip 16 hikers terminate their trek.

Kolob Terrace Road, Trips 17–21

This highly scenic road leaves Utah 9 at the east end of the town of Virgin (6.1 miles from La Verkin and 14.1 miles from the Park’s South Entrance). This road is paved throughout its length, but has several steep grades and many sharp turns. All its trailheads can be driven to in passenger cars.

Even nonhikers will find the drive exceptionally rewarding, as it traverses unique and varied landscapes seen by only a handful of Park visitors. In winter, the upper reaches of this road are closed to all but ski and snowmobile traffic.

(0.0) From Utah 9 our paved road soon passes some outlying residences of Virgin, then begins ascending the drainage of North Creek, the primary watershed in the west-central part of the Park. Passing varicolored slopes of Moenkopi Formation rocks, we bridge North Creek twice and at length begin ascending a sloping, basalt-capped ridge.

(6.3) Our road enters Park lands amid pinyon-juniper woodland. As we approach Grapevine Wash on the upper limits of the ridge, signed Smith Mesa Road (1.1; 7.4) peels off to the left.

Soon the road curves north while ascending directly toward the red mass of Tabernacle Dome, flanked on the left by the fluted cliffs of Point 6083, and by Point 5855 on the right. Approaching these points, we soon reach a short spur (0.6; 8.0) branching off to the right (east), and signed for LEFT FORK TRAILHEAD. Park at Trailhead 14 100 feet off the paved road, where there is space for at least nine vehicles, and begin Trip 17 here.

The road ahead climbs past Tabernacle Dome on the right and a private residence on the left. Soon the grade abates and we leave the Park and enter the broad, grassy expanse of Cave Valley. Soon we strike due north for an ascent to the west slopes of the brush-clad Spendlove Knoll cinder cone. Due west of Spendlove Knoll we re-enter the Park and as the road begins to curve east, a second cinder cone, Firepit Knoll, fills the view ahead. A sign indicating the Hop Valley Trail informs Trip 18 hikers where to turn (4.5; 12.5) onto the short paved spur to Trailhead 15, just north of the road.

The road ahead ascends to a saddle separating the cinder cones, then continues the ascent above spreading Lee Valley. Soon the road descends east into the valley of Pine Spring Wash, then switchbacks once, climbing steeply among tall pines onto a plateau east of the valley. Upon reaching the plateau, and immediately before the road doubles back to the northwest, the signed Wildcat Canyon Trailhead spur leaves the pavement (2.8; 15.3). This narrow, unpaved spur leads quickly south to the

Trailhead 16 parking area (0.1; 15.4) amid thickets of Gambel oak on the edge of spacious Pine Valley. Trip 19 hikers will end their hike here, or those choosing a round trip to Northgate Peaks will start hiking here.

The road ahead eventually climbs into the expansive meadow of Little Creek Valley, and at its upper end we reach the Park boundary (3.0; 18.3). Our road ahead soon climbs into Oak Spring Valley. It then skirts volcanic Home Valley Knoll, enters another grassy spread, and finally meets

(2.3; 20.6) signed Lava Point Road.

Hikers bound for Trips 19 and 20 turn right here, leave the pavement and follow the good graded gravel road across a well-watered spread, and soon pass summer homes tucked back into the forest. We reenter the Park

(0.8; 21.4) and quickly reach a road fork (0.1; 21.5) on a flat ridge amid an aspen-and-white-fir forest.

If you are planning to camp before embarking on Trips 19 and 20, or if you would like an overview of the vast plateau and the canyons, turn right and proceed along the forested, basalt-capped ridge to a campground turnoff (0.7; 22.2). The Lava Point Campground (7900’) lies north of the main road, offering six pleasant, conifer-shaded campsites along its loop road. You must bring your own water to this primitive campground. No fee is charged here, but there are tables, fire pits, and pit toilets.

Barney’s Trail departs from campsite Number 2, descending 0.3 mile via an aspen-and-fir-clad slope to the trailhead access road, 0.7 mile from the West Rim Trail. Lava Point Overlook, 0.2 mile east of the campground turnoff, and offers an exceptional panorama of the Park and much of the Markagunt Plateau, with interpretive signs identifying distant landmarks.

Turning left at the campground junction, signed for WEST RIM TRAIL, we immediately bypass a left fork leading to a ranger residence and descend, steeply at times, along the forested north slope of Lava Point. The road is narrow, rough and rutted in places, and should be avoided immediately after a good rain. At length we skirt the edge of a grassy opening beneath Goose Creek Knoll and soon reach Trailhead 17 (1.4; 22.9) where Trips 19 and 20 begin. A locked gate here blocks the road eastbound to MIA Camp. Parking is available at the trailhead for about seven vehicles.

Hikers bound for Trip 21 and Kolob Reservoir should stay left at the Lava Point Road junction, shortly passing the turnoff to Kolob Mountain Ranch and Lodge (0.3; 20.9) above Blue Springs Reservoir, and thereafter passing numerous summer homes. The dirt road leads through bucolic meadows dotted with grazing cattle during summer and early fall.

Upon reaching large Kolob Reservoir (spillway 8188’), avoid the left fork branching toward the dam. Instead we follow the main road as it twists and turns above the east shore of the popular reservoir. At the north end of the reservoir, we reach a signed junction (4.5; 25.4) with our trailhead access road (left), from where the primary graded road continues north, leading to Cedar City in 27 miles.

Turning left, our narrow road follows the north shoreline closely, shortly curving northwest along the Indian Hollow arm of the reservoir. At the upper end of this arm, ignore a left fork that follows around the opposite shoreline, and quickly reach a sign (1.0; 26.4): TO LA VERKIN CREEK IN ZION NATIONAL PARK. Turn right here and park off the road in the aspen grove, just below the gate. Trip 21 begins here at Trailhead 18.

Kolob Canyons Road, Trips 22 and 23

This is another supremely scenic drive bypassed by most Park visitors. The road is paved, has a steady grade and many turns, and offers exceptional views into the Finger Canyons of the Kolob, an area that many would argue is the finest scenery in the Park, if not some of the most incredible scenery on the globe. Everyone traveling this road must first stop in the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center and pay the Park entrance fee. There you can obtain a copy of the Kolob Canyons brochure. In addition to providing ample information on the natural history of the area, the brochure is also a road guide, keyed to numbered stops along the way.

(0.0) The Kolob Canyons Road leaves Interstate 15 at exit 40, 19 miles south of Cedar City and 33 miles north of St. George. The Kolob Canyons Visitor Center (0.3) offers books and maps for sale, backcountry information, and backcountry permits.

Beyond the Visitor Center, the road quickly bends north while climbing the wooded slope of the Hurricane Cliffs, which form the western margin of the Markagunt Plateau. A gate here may be closed periodically between late fall and early spring if rockfall or snowpack blocks the road ahead.

As we head north toward Taylor Creek canyon, we briefly enjoy expansive views across a broad valley to the bulky Pine Valley Mountains. Here on the face of the Hurricane Cliffs we are entering the Colorado Plateau Province, while our views both west and northwest stretch into the Basin and Range Province, which encompasses much of western Utah.

The road ahead curves east into Taylor Creek canyon, and climbs eastward south of the creek.

(2.0; 2.3) Trip 22 begins on the left (north) side of the road, indicated by a TAYLOR CREEK TRAIL sign, where a spacious turnout offers ample parking at Trailhead 19. The road ahead winds upward through the pinyon-juniper-oak woodland, soon curving east into Taylor Creek’s South Fork. A spacious turnout (1.3; 3.6) on the right shoulder of our road is encountered just before we curve across the South Fork. It offers parking for picture taking or for a rewarding jaunt up that canyon, via a faint but traceable pathway.

Beyond the South Fork our road curves west and climbs north-facing slopes below Beatty Point, reaching the Taylor Creek-Timber Creek divide at signed Lee Pass, 6080’ (0.5; 4.1). From the pass the Finger Canyons of Timber Creek suddenly explode upon the scene, but they can be enjoyed to better advantage from the roadend ahead. The Trailhead 20 parking area for Trip 23 lies 100 yards south of Lee Pass of the left (east) side of the road. The road continues southwest 1.4 miles to the roadend, where there is a picnic area and dramatic views into the Finger Canyons.

Trip 1

Chinle Trail to Coalpits Wash

Distance: 16.4 miles, round trip

Low/High elevations: 3800’/4450’

Suited for: Dayhike or backpack

Difficulty: Moderate

Best season: Mid-September through March

Map/Trailhead: 1/1

Hazards: No water is available between the trailhead and Coalpits Wash, at the trail’s end; no shade.

Introduction: This is Zion’s longest low-elevation trail. Seldom trod during the summer, it becomes an attractive excursion during the cool months from fall through spring. The grade is gentle as the trail traverses broad benches clothed in woodlands of pinyon and juniper, with an exciting backdrop of soaring, brilliantly hued cliffs. Campsites are abundant beyond the powerlines near the Park boundary, and there is ample room for off-trail exploration. Be aware that camping is not allowed along the trail within 0.5 mile of the Park boundary, or in the area surrounding the spring in upper Coalpits Wash at the trail’s end (see Zion’s Backcountry Trip Planner).

A scattering of petrified wood offers a glimpse into the distant past, when ancient streams carried driftwood from far-away highlands, depositing them on a sloping coastal plain.

Description: Our trek begins at the spacious hiker’s trailhead parking area, behind the information signboard (0.0; 3800), and from there we ascend steeply alongside the paved road, then briefly descend to cross the pavement. The trail ahead traverses northwestward across open slopes studded with blocks of Shinarump conglomerate, the basal unit of the Chinle Formation. We traverse below broad Rockville Bench, its gentle contours contrasting with the brightly colored cliffs of Mt. Kinesava, soaring more than 3000 feet above in a lateral distance of less than 2 miles. Upon the flanks of that giant crag four prominent sedimentary rock layers are exposed to full view, representing a 50-million-year span of geologic history.

At length we gain the gentle surface of Rockville Bench, and ascend gradually to the Park boundary (1.0; 4025). The trail ahead ascends gently, and soon we pass beneath a power transmission line (0.5; 4100) serving the town of Springdale, beyond which we enjoy expanding vistas, presently including volcanic Crater Hill, and the hogback crest of distant Pine Valley Mountains, both to the northwest. Branching right onto an old 4WD track at a trail sign (0.2; 4100), we climb easily around the shoulder of a ridge (0.8; 4220), then curve north, traversing wooded slopes above the shallow gorge of Huber Wash. Our eyes can follow the Shinarump rimrock of the extensive bench as it contours around the flanks of Huber Wash. The finest display of petrified wood in the Park lies ahead, scattered over the bench beyond Huber Wash. Fluted red cliffs bounding Mt. Kinesava rise boldly above to the northeast, while to the northwest, foregrounded by the broad wooded bench, more barrier cliffs soar skyward to the rim of Cougar Mountain.

Soon we cross two dry forks of Huber Wash (0.6; 4160). Vegetation here is typical of the pinyon-juniper woodland, including prickly pear and cholla (the latter more common in the Lower Sonoran Zone, which dominates the southwest of the Park), squawbush, blackbrush, broom snakeweed, big sagebrush, rabbitbrush, cliffrose, and buffaloberry. After climbing moderately out of the wash, the trail crosses another small wash (0.5; 4240), where shrub live oak joins the woodland.

The grade slackens as we trace a northwestward course across the bench, and soon fragments of petrified wood begin to appear alongside the trail. Look for multihued rock fragments that seem out of place among the tan rocks of the Chinle Formation. Some pieces of the petrified wood are large enough that we can actually count growth rings, and in places entire tree trunks have been exposed by erosion. Although broken into sections, they lie where stream sediments buried them 200 million years ago. Restrain the urge to collect petrified wood, remembering that collecting or disturbing natural features is prohibited in national parks—leave everything exactly where you find it.

As we proceed, we gain vistas east of West Temple and the Sundial from a perspective much different from that of most Park visitors. Eventually we notice petrified wood with much less frequency, and soon proceed across a prickly-pear-studded bench, brilliantly colored with delicate flowers in spring.

After crossing a gentle divide, the trail climbs to a minor gap in a west-trending ridge (1.1; 4420) above Scoggins Wash, from which we enjoy a sweeping panorama of the crenulated cliff band that rises beyond the bench to the east and to the north. Beyond the ridge, the trail winds down to, then out of, a dry gully, and descends pinyon-juniper slopes to cross usually dry Scoggins Wash (0.6; 4210), where a few scattered Fremont cottonwoods and tamarisks indicate the presence of subsurface moisture. Presently hiking westward, we follow the Shinarump rimrock above the deepening gorge of the wash. A few scattered fragments of petrified wood persist along our route, among cobbles weathered from the stream deposits of the Shinarump conglomerate. Here it consists of either large sand grains only, or sand mixed with stream-rounded pebbles and cobbles.

By now the old 4WD road has faded into a sometimes-faint trail indicated by cairns. Where a north-trending wash crosses the trail (0.6; 4310), a possible cross-country route begins. The small wash can be followed north for 0.8 mile to a prominent gap in the ridge, from which another minor wash then leads down into the upper reaches of Coalpits Wash. This route offers the option of looping back to the end of our trail route, and then following it back to the trailhead. That loop route reaches Coalpits Wash only 0.5 mile downstream from some old oil-well ruins, an interesting spot worth a visit.

Cresting a minor ridge (0.2; 4350), we obtain more fine views that sharply contrast the horizontal aspect of the bench with the vertical cliffs beyond. Presently the trail descends wooded slopes to the banks of a minor wash, soon crosses its west branch, and then climbs briefly to a low gap. Colorful badlands slopes composed of Chinle shales rise above the bench to our right (northwest) while to the southern distance, the rugged crags of the Vermilion Cliffs dominate the scene. A final look over our shoulders reveals the mighty crags of the Towers of the Virgin and, north of them, The Bishopric.

Southwest of the gap we reach another minor wash and a junction (0.8; 4150) with the old Scoggins Stock Trail, branching left into the depths of Scoggins Wash. The trail was used by pioneer cattlemen moving their stock to and from the grassy tablelands of Rockville Bench. The trail ahead proceeds along the bench beneath colorful Chinle hills, finally curving above Coalpits Wash, where the bench becomes increasingly narrow. We reach the rim of the wash, where the bench terminates, and a short but steep descent takes us to the banks of the small stream in that wash (1.3; 4100). A reliable spring 0.1 mile downstream offers fresher water than the somewhat alkaline stream.

A wide variety of cross-country hiking opportunities in the area can keep hikers busy here for several days. Among them are forays over the volcanic landscape to the west, and up and down Coalpits Wash. Crater Hill, a 5207-foot cinder cone, is responsible for the basaltic lava that dominates the landscape west of the wash.

One-half million years ago, lava flows from Crater Hill dammed Coalpits Wash, subsequently forming a short-lived seasonal lake one square mile in extent. Pollen samples recovered from the lakebed indicate that trees similar to ponderosa pine, spruce, and fir may have then inhabited what is presently the hottest and driest region of the Park.

Return the way you came.

Trip 2

Watchman Trail

Distance: 2.9 miles, semiloop trip

Low/High elevations: 3920’/4420’

Suited for: Dayhike

Difficulty: Moderately easy

Best season: Open all year, but hot in summer and possibly snow-covered in winter.

Map/Trailhead: 2/2

Hazards: Steep dropoffs near the trail’s end, and springs that require purification before drinking (as do all open water sources in the Park).

Introduction: The Watchman Trail is a short but scenic route leading to a rocky bench on the east slopes of lower Zion Canyon, offering unique vistas available from no other trail in the Park. The bench lies below a prominent red spire rising 2500 feet from the canyon floor, dubbed The Watchman by early Mormon settlers. The trail is a fine leg stretcher for guests of Zion Canyon’s campgrounds, and its unique views and interesting terrain make the trip a fine choice for the hiker with limited time and energy.

Description: Hikers can begin this trip from either of two points: the Visitor Center parking lot, or from your campsite in Watchman Campground. The signed trailhead is located on the north side of the Visitor Center/Watchman Campground access road, immediately north of the Visitor Center shuttle bus shelter. From the trailhead (0.0; 3920) the trail proceeds northeast across a terrace between the North Fork Virgin River and the paved access road to ranger residences. We head northeast across the flat grass- and rabbitbrush-covered terrace, soon joining the residence access road, which we cross and resume our trail walk on the opposite side (0.25; 3975). After leaving the road, pause long enough to gaze northeast up to imposing Bridge Mountain, rearing 2800 feet above us. Those with sharp eyesight or with binoculars can make out a narrow stone arch on the skyline north of the peak. A host of jagged summits form the rugged skyline above us, from Bridge Mountain in the northeast to Johnson Mountain at Zion Canyon’s mouth.

Our trail presently takes us across the wide bench, studded with four-wing saltbush, opposite a group of Park employee residences. From here the trail heads east up a minor canyon and begins ascending beneath imposing cliffs. Our trail takes us upward through the varicolored mudstones and siltstones of the Dinosaur Canyon layer of the Moenave Formation. Proceeding upward toward the next layer in that formation, the Springdale Sandstone, we’ll notice undercut ledges created by the differential erosion of a soft rock layer underlying a harder, more resistant one.

After negotiating four switchbacks, we curve into the head of the canyon, where several sluggish springs host lush riparian vegetation, such as Fremont cottonwood, boxelder, and a variety of seasonal wildflowers. These springs give life to the small, seasonal stream that trickles into the canyon below. Presently, we begin a southwestward traverse while enjoying increasingly outstanding vistas from the north-facing canyon wall. Here we notice a change in vegetation, for a comparatively cooler microclimate prevails on this more sheltered slope. Utah juniper and now singleleaf pinyon predominate among shrubs typical of the pinyon-juniper woodland, such as buffaloberry, singleleaf ash, Utah serviceberry, and yucca.

Where it attains the high bench above Zion Canyon, the trail forks (1.0; 4420), forming a scenic loop around the perimeter of the bench. Hikers eager to enjoy unobstructed vistas will bear right for now, returning via the left fork. The trail winds along the Springdale Sandstone-capped rim, soon reaching a junction. A spur to an overlook forks to the right here, quickly leading to the brink of the rim, where a broad panorama unfolds.

Below, at the wide mouth of Zion Canyon, is the town of Springdale, a Mormon settlement dating back to the 1860s. Beyond the town are the aptly-named Vermilion Cliffs, adorned by the landmark Eagle Crags. Those rugged cliffs, composed of Moenave Formation rocks, the same rocks upon which we stand, are one of the “risers” forming southern Utah’s Grand Staircase.

Rearing mightily toward the heavens across the wide floor of Zion Canyon are the Towers of the Virgin, boasting a vertical relief of nearly 4000 feet. Our view also extends up the narrowing canyon, encompassing a myriad of colorful, soaring cliffs, crags, and tree-topped plateaus. Our vantage point is an excellent spot from which to observe some aspects of canyon widening. The canyon becomes progressively narrower upstream, where the river has cut a slot barely 20 feet wide in The Narrows, where the uniform Navajo Sandstone dominates. Below us the canyon is a rather wide valley, with a wooded bottom and rocky slopes that sweep back to broken cliffs.

To return via the loop trail, backtrack from the overlook and turn right. This longer side of the loop follows the rim of the bench eastward, then turns abruptly northwest, where we climb easily amid sandstone blocks, pinyon, juniper, and various shrubs, soon reaching the main trail (0.4; 4420), where we bear right to retrace our route to the start.

Trip 3

Sand Bench Trail

Distance: 3.9 miles, semiloop trail

Low/High elevations: 4230’/4715’

Suited for: Dayhike

Difficulty: Moderate

Best season: September through early June

Map/Trailhead: 2/3

Hazards: No water; possible encounters with horses from Zion Lodge spring through fall.

Introduction: One of many day-use trails in Zion Canyon, the Sand Bench Trail offers incredible close-up views of the awe-inspiring, colorful cliffs of the lower canyon from a sandy bench 600 feet above the canyon’s floor. The trailside terrain is clothed in a pinyon-juniper woodland typical of the Park’s lower elevations. Much of the tread is deep, soft sand churned up by horse traffic from Zion Lodge. Because of this, few hikers take the route, and save for occasional saddle trains, hikers who choose this trail will enjoyconsiderable solitude, a rarity on Zion Canyon’s popular trails.

This trip can be taken by itself, or it can be combined with the Emerald Pools Trail (Trip 5) by utilizing a dusty riverside connecting trail (used by horses coming from the corral near Emerald Pools trailhead) for a half-day hike passing many of the scenic wonders of central Zion Canyon.

Description: From the trailhead at the parking area/shuttle bus stop(0.0; 4250), proceed across the Scenic Drive via a crosswalk; a footbridge sign indicates the trail on the west side of the road. The wide trail follows a bend of North Fork Virgin River, just north of a paved spur road leading to a water tank and various buildings. Following FOOTBRIDGE and HORSE TRAIL signs, we quickly reach a sturdy bridge over the river (0.2; 4230), where signs indicate SAND-BENCH TRAIL and NO CAMPING. Exposures of lakebed sediments deposited in Sentinel Lake nearly 4000 years ago can be seen on the riverbank just upstream.

Beyond the bridge, the trail may be briefly ill-defined. Avoid the faint, boulder-strewn path along Birch Creek to the left, and instead follow the path to the right indicated by a TRAIL sign. After quickly climbing to a bench above the river, the trail then forks. The right fork offers quick access to the Emerald Pools connecting trail, but we take the left fork, soon crossing a small wash emanating from Mt. Moroni, then climbing briefly to junction with the aforementioned connecting trail (right fork) and the Sand Bench Trail (left fork) (0.1; 4265).

The immense amphitheater before us is the Court of the Patriarchs. The Three Patriarchs, a triad of giant Navajo Sandstone crags, soar 2500 feet above us to the northwest. Mt. Moroni is a particularly impressive spire piercing the Utah sky 1400 feet above to the north.

One of the most striking trailside plants present here is sacred datura, or jimson weed. It is easily identified by its large blue-green leaves and its huge, white, trumpet-shaped flowers. It is one of the few plants that bloom in the canyon during the hot summer months. The flowers open in the evening and close in the morning as the sun rises over the canyon wall. The fruit of this poisonous plant is round and spine-covered. Some Southwest Indian tribes used this plant in religious ceremonies.

Tall ponderosa pines are skylined on the rim above the Court, lending a sense of scale to the immense cliffs that surround us. Quickly the trail descends to the cottonwood-shaded course of Birch Creek. The creek is diverted into a pipeline a short distance upstream, for use as the Park’s primary water supply.

The trail leads us very briefly upstream to a crossing of the often-trickling creek, and from there we climb the north slope of Sand Bench via five switchbacks. The grade slackens above the switchbacks amid a woodland of Utah juniper and singleleaf pinyon. Views behind us reveal the Court of the Patriarchs and the towering crags above in full magnificence. Notice that these crags are separated from one another by narrow and precipitous joint-controlled canyons.

Soon we reach the loop trail (0.3; 4350) and ponder our choice of turning right or left. The right fork takes advantage of the close-up views of The Sentinel and The Streaked Wall, saving more expansive vistas from the rim of the bench for the return trip.

Turning right, we find the tread sandy and the going slow, but views of incomparable cliffs and monoliths should distract us from our labors. Vistas are ever-increasing as we rise moderately among singleleaf pinyon, juniper, greenleaf manzanita, and shrub live oak—the only evergreen oak in the Park.

Isolated Sand Bench is somewhat of a curiosity in Zion Canyon, as there are few benches save for riverside terraces. The bench was formed as an immense slump block detached from the face of The Sentinel about 4000 years ago, subsequently damming the river and forming a shortlived lake—Sentinel Lake—that extended as far upstream as the Grotto Picnic Area. The narrow lake reached a depth of 350 feet and had a surface area of 0.7 square mile. Thus the chaotic jumble of sandstone blocks and sand over which our trail passes is a relatively recent addition to the landscape.

Slogging through the sand to the summit of the trail (0.7; 4715), we welcome the chance to pause and absorb the magnificent panorama. Towering above us to the west is the 1400’ wall of The Sentinel, capped by the red rocks of the Temple Cap Formation. Southwest of our vantage point rises the even more striking cliff of the 1600’ Streaked Wall, its face decorated by draperies of runoff-deposited desert varnish. Crowning that wall is aptly-named Bee Hive Peak, a cone-shaped dome of Navajo Sandstone.

Our gaze also stretches up and down the canyon, encompassing a parade of striking crags from Deertrap Mountain to Johnson Mountain at the mouth of Zion Canyon. Continuing ahead, we shortly reach a corral, two picnic tables, and a pit toilet (0.6; 4600). A wooded knoll just to the south offers superb vistas over the lower reaches of Zion Canyon, and is but a short scramble from this spot.

The trail ahead curves eastward through the pinyon-juniper woodland and among large, lichen-encrusted Navajo Sandstone blocks. Quite soon the trail forks (0.1; 4640). The left fork slices through the heart of the bench, while the right fork follows close to the canyon rim. Both trails are 0.7 mile long. The bench trail (left fork) climbs gently, gaining 60 feet, and offers fair views framed by trailside trees. The rim trail (right fork) undulates along or very near the rim of Zion Canyon. Views are expansive from this trail, and short detours to the edge of the rim offer glimpses of North Fork Virgin River 600 feet below. It may be difficult to imagine that such a small stream is responsible for carving this immense canyon, but remember 15 million years have passed since the river began its handiwork.

The two trails rejoin near the rim (0.7; 4700), from where we descend at a moderate grade, soon curving north across a pleasant wooded flat. Finally our trail meanders downhill northwest, soon completing the loop, and we turn right (0.6; 4350) and retrace our steps to the trailhead.

Trip 4

Court of the Patriarchs Viewpoint Trail

Distance: 100 yards, round trip

Low/High elevations: 4250’/4290’

Suited for: Walk

Difficulty: Very easy

Best season: All year

Map/Trailhead: 2/3

Hazards: Negligible.

Introduction: Zion’s diversity of trails offers something for hikers of every ability, and one need not be a dedicated hiker to enjoy the splendors of this magnificent Park. A case in point is the Court of the Patriarchs Viewpoint Trail, an easy five-minute stroll offering views up and down much of the length of Zion Canyon.

Description: From the parking area/shuttle bus stop (0.0; 4250) the trail switchbacks uphill at a moderate grade, passing through a thicket of Gambel oak, netleaf hackberry, and Utah juniper, ending after 50 yards where an awe-inspiring panorama unfolds (4290’).

Westward, the sky-piercing summits of the Three Patriarchs and their companion peak, Mt. Moroni, soar boldly above the cliffbound amphitheater of Court of the Patriarchs. Behind the Court lies the remote and inaccessible hanging valley of upper Birch Creek.

But there are more lofty crags and magnificent, sweeping cliffs to capture our attention and stir our imagination. Our view stretches up-canyon as far as the lofty perch of Angels Landing; down-canyon, prominent features include The Sentinel, The Streaked Wall, and Bee Hive Peak.

Trip 5

Emerald Pools Trail

Distance: 2.1 miles, loop trip

Low/High elevations: 4280’/4600’

Suited for: Walk

Difficulty: Easy

Best season: All year

Maps/Trailhead: 3,2/4

Hazards: Steep dropoffs; trail should be avoided when ice- or snow-covered.

Introduction: One of Zion Canyon’s most-used trails, this very scenic one- to two-hour jaunt tours a shady side canyon featuring a perennial stream with dense vegetation, and four limpid pools reflecting towering canyon walls. Hikers not inclined to undertake the entire loop can follow the mile-long paved trail (accessible to wheelchairs) to the lower pool and a dripping alcove resplendent with water-loving vegetation.

Description: The signed trail (0.0; 4280) quickly bridges North Fork Virgin River west of the large parking area, then immediately forks. The right fork, a gently climbing, paved trail, offers the shortest and easiest route to the lower pool, while the left fork offers access to the loop trail and to a riverside spur trail leading to the Sand Bench Trail.

Turning left beneath the soaring heights of Lady Mountain, we stroll south along the shady riverbank, under the spreading branches of Fremont cottonwood, water birch, and Gambel oak. Quite soon we reach a signed junction (0.1; 4300) from where the riverside stock trail (also open to hikers) continues down-river and the loop trail climbs the slope above.

Hikers who wish to combine the Emerald Pools Trail with the Sand Bench Trail for an all-day excursion can follow that riverside trail downstream from the junction (0.0; 4300). Heading south, the trail soon passes a corral and becomes dusty. Initially we are shaded by groves of Fremont cottonwood and boxelder that hug the river, but as we climb slightly onto drier slopes, Gambel oak, shrub live oak, and Utah juniper dominate. The river below alternates from a cottonwood-shaded course to an open one lined with bushy tamarisk.

As we pass under the colorful, broken cliffs of imposing Mt. Moroni, we encounter an abundance of the Park’s largest cactus, Engelmann prickly pear, adorned with delicate yellow flowers in spring and purple fruit in autumn. Proceeding amid oak and juniper woodland, we’ll notice an unusual climbing vine draping trailside trees. Canyon wild grape is common in the shady depths of Zion Canyon, and is particularly abundant along the Weeping Rock Trail (Trip 9).

The trail crosses a sagebrush-clad flat as it curves toward Court of the Patriarchs, and is soon joined by an informal trail climbing up from the Court of the Patriarchs trailhead. Quite soon we cross a typically dry wash and join the main trail (1.1; 4265) climbing up from that trailhead, where we bear right onto the Sand Bench Trail, described in Trip 3.

Resuming our hike along the Emerald Pools Trail, we turn right at the loop-trail junction. A single switchback ensues, followed by a protracted traverse. The trail quickly crosses slide debris beneath Lady Mountain, a soaring crag rising 2500 feet above the trail. Shrub live oak, Utah juniper, Gambel oak, singleleaf pinyon, Utah serviceberry, buffaloberry, singleleaf ash, narrowleaf yucca, and prickly pear are thickly massed along the mountainside above the canyons. Enroute we’ll splash through the runoff of several verdant springs, their courses banked with cottonwood, water birch, and boxelder.

Views throughout the traverse are inspiring, encompassing square-edged mesas topped with tall pines, sculptured cliffs streaked with curtains of red, and the gaping cleft of Zion Canyon. The trail maintains a gentle grade, and is intermittently paved above steep dropoffs.

As the trail curves around a shoulder of the slope, the manicured grounds of Zion Lodge come into view, and several outstanding landmarks form a ragged skyline above the canyon. Among them, from north to south, Angels Landing, The Great White Throne, Mountain of the Sun, and Twin Brothers. The prominent gothic arch on the flanks of imposing Red Arch Mountain, just south of The Great White Throne, was formed in 1880 when an enormous slab of Navajo Sandstone spalled off the cliff and buried Mormon pioneer Oliver D. Gifford’s cornfield. Altogether, the peaceful floor of Zion Canyon, with the river threading its way among grassy openings and groves of cottonwoods, and with a backdrop of soaring sandstone cliffs, makes a most attractive picture.

As the trail enters the Heaps Canyon drainage, we are confronted by a gigantic amphitheater, its north wall of Navajo Sandstone intricately cross-bedded and capped by the prominent spire of The Spearhead. Below us, the perennial waters of the canyon nourish a dense forest of Gambel oak, boxelder, and Fremont cottonwood.

Where more springs course over the trail ahead, bigtooth maples arch their branches overhead, their leaves turning a brilliant red after the first frosts of autumn. As we approach the draw of the canyon, Douglas-firs appear on trailside slopes, and soon Heaps Canyon creek comes into view, pouring off an overhanging ledge between the middle and lower pools. Immediately below the overhang, a seepline nurtures a narrow strip of hanging gardens.

Soon we reach middle Emerald Pool (0.8; 4380), perched near the brink of the pouroff and rimmed by Douglas-firs, willows, Utah junipers, and Fremont cottonwoods. The small, still pool reflects an exciting backdrop of sculptured, pastel-shaded canyon walls. Overhead, tall ponderosa pines form scattered silhouette figures atop the canyon rim.

Proceeding 50 yards beyond the pool to a junction, we ponder the option of turning left and ascending to the upper pool or turning right and looping back to the trailhead. The upper pool is the largest and deepest, and well worth a visit. The trail leading to it crosses a slope littered with boulders that were spread across the trail by a major flash flood in 1987. The correct route may be lost amid a confusing array of use trails, all of which ultimately lead to the upper pool.

As we ascend the brush slope at a moderately steep grade, an abundance of creeping hollygrape at the trail’s edge heralds our approach to the upper pool, where the grade abates. Quite soon we reach the edge of the large pool (0.2; 4600) where velvet ash, willow, bigtooth maple, and boxelder, many of them draped by vines of the canyon wild grape, crowd the edge and provide a shady canopy for hikers on a hot day.

Numerous springs and seeps feed the pool, and after heavy rains or the melting of the snowpack on the plateau above, a noisy waterfall plunges over the tall cliff behind the pool. Rising sheer above us one three sides are lofty cliffs of Navajo Sandstone, stained with desert varnish from dust and mineral-laden rainwater. Notice the Douglas-firs clinging to the ledges on the cliff face south of the pool. That north-facing cliff is shaded from heat and sunlight, so soil moisture evaporates more slowly and nurtures a suitable microhabitat for trees that are more commonly found atop the plateaus more than 3000 feet above.

After backtracking to the junction near the middle pool (0.2; 4380), we should bear left if we intend to complete the circuit. Quickly we meet a left-branching trail bound for the Grotto Picnic Area, 0.8 mile ahead. But we turn right, passing through a narrow cleft between two immense boulders fallen from the cliffs above. Rock stairs then lower us to a junction with another left-branching trail (0.1; 4350), which quickly connects with the aforementioned trail leading to the picnic area.

Our trail immediately leads us under an overhanging ledge just above the lower pool, which is merely a wide spot in the creekbed. Presently wedged between the cliff face and the waterfall emanating from the middle pool, our wet trail leads us past horizontal seeplines resplendent with the growth of hanging gardens. A white, powdery residue of sodium bicarbonate coats the trailside wall, left behind by the evaporation of seeping water. We are likely to get wet under the dripping wall as we proceed out of the canyon’s draw and begin the final leg of the loop. The trail presently traverses southeast across lower slopes of the amphitheater beneath a canopy of Gambel oak and bigtooth maple, their ranks mixed with Utah juniper and singleleaf ash. Inspiring views of canyons, cliffs, and mesa rims accompany us as we descend to the floor of Zion Canyon. Reaching the river, the trail hugs the west bank the remaining distance to the bridge, from where we quickly backtrack to the parking area (0.7; 4270).

Trip 6

Zion Lodge to Grotto Picnic Area

Distance: 1.2 miles, round trip

Low/High elevations: 4280’/4320’

Suited for: Walk

Difficulty: Very easy

Best season: All year

Map/Trailhead: 3/5

Hazards: Negligible.

Introduction: This pleasant stroll offers an alternative route from Zion Lodge to the Grotto Picnic Area for visitors who would rather walk than drive or ride the shuttle bus. It features shady, canyon-bottom vegetation, grassy openings, and close-up views of towering canyon walls. The trail is used primarily by guests of the lodge.

Description: The trail begins behind the northeast end of the lodge parking area (0.0; 4280), where a sign indicates GROTTO PICNIC AREA. The trail, nearly level throughout, parallels the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, passing through grassy openings and groves of Gambel oak, Fremont cottonwood, and boxelder, beneath the abrupt cliffs of Red Arch and Deertrap mountains. Views extend westward into the cliffbound amphitheater below Heaps Canyon, in which the Emerald Pools rest. Approaching the tree-shaded flat of the Grotto, the trail passes a ranger’s cabin, then quickly reaches the loop road in the picnic area (0.6; 4290). Opposite the picnic area, trails lead to Emerald Pools, Angels Landing, and the West Rim Trail.

Trip 7

Kayenta Trail: Grotto Picnic Area to Emerald Pools

Distance: 1.6 miles, round trip

Low/High elevations: 4290’/4480’

Suited for: Walk

Difficulty: Easy

Best season: All year

Map/Trailhead: 3/6

Hazards: Avoid when ice- or snow-covered.

Introduction: This trail offers an alternate, less used means of access to the Emerald Pools trail system (see Trip 5), and it can be combined with Trip 6 to form a pleasant, scenic half-day loop. The trail ascends an open, rocky slope from which views of central Zion Canyon are superb.

Description: From the Grotto trailhead parking area (0.0; 4290), cross North Fork Virgin River via a sturdy bridge and immediately turn left onto the Kayenta Trail, parting company with hikers beginning Trip 8 and those finishing Trip 20. Our trail climbs easily up the rocky slope above the noisy river, passing beneath the broken, red east face of The Spearhead. Soon the trail rises moderately along the boulder-littered slope, passing vegetation typical of the dry lower slopes of the canyon, including singleleaf pinyon, Utah juniper, and shrub live oak. Enroute we enjoy fine views across the canyon to Observation Point, The Great White Throne, and Angels Landing.

Eventually, the trail curves west, continuing the traverse into the Emerald Pools amphitheater. Where the trail forks (0.7; 4420), we have the option of turning left and descending 70 feet in 0.1 mile to the lower Emerald Pool or staying to the right and traversing 0.1 mile to the middle pool. To complete the hike to Emerald Pools, see Trip 5.

Trip 8

West Rim Trail: Grotto Picnic Area to Scout Lookout and Angels Landing

Distance: 3.8 miles, round trip, to Scout Lookout; 4.8 miles round trip to Angels Landing

Low/High elevations: 4290’/5350’; 5790’ at Angels Landing

Suited for: Dayhike

Difficulty: Moderate to Scout Lookout; moderately strenuous to Angels Landing.

Best season: March through November

Map/Trailhead: 3/6

Hazards: Steep dropoffs; avoid when snow- or ice-covered and when a thunderstorm is threatening.

Introduction: The highly scenic trail to Scout Lookout, built in 1926, was among the first to be constructed in Zion. One section of the trail, a series of switchbacks called Walter’s Wiggles, is an engineering marvel, spanning an otherwise impassable cliff to allow access to a memorable viewpoint 1000 feet above the floor of Zion Canyon.

The route to Angels Landing is rigorous and exposed, in places requiring the use of both hands and feet. Faint-hearted hikers and small children should not attempt this steep trail. It’s a dangerous route even during fair weather, and only the foolhardy will attempt it when it is snow- or ice-covered, or when a thunderstorm is threatening. Both trails receive moderate use, and backpackers hiking the West Rim Trail should remember that camping is permitted only in designated campsites (see Trip 20).

Sheer face of the Great White Throne

Description: From the Grotto trailhead parking area (0.0; 4290) we immediately cross the river via a bridge and part company with hikers taking Trip 7. A pleasant riverside stroll ensues, leading to a moderate ascent upon brushy slopes, amid a jumble of boulders from a Cathedral Mountain rockslide.

Paved switchbacks carved into the Navajo Sandstone elevate us into the shady, narrow hanging gorge of Refrigerator Canyon. A pleasant stroll along the floor of the cliff-framed chasm, a delightful spot to rest on a hot day, leads us to more switchbacks. Ascending the 250’ wall above the canyon, we negotiate Walter’s Wiggles, above which we step out onto the canyon rim amid scattered ponderosa pines.

Nearby, a sign identifies Scout Lookout (1.9; 5350). Many dayhikers terminate their journey here, satisfied with the superb views into Zion Canyon directly below, and east into the gaping alcove at the mouth of precipitous Echo Canyon, flanked on either side by majestic, soaring cliffs.

• • • • •

Angels Landing

The sentinel monolith of Angels Landing juts outward into Zion Canyon, forcing the south-flowing river to make a great bend around it and its lower satellite rock, The Organ. Hikers with a fear of heights should be content with the exceptional views from Scout Lookout and avoid this trail.

From the signed junction immediately below Scout Lookout the trail follows the pine-clad rim generally south, climbing over a minor rise before attacking the north ridge of the Landing. The route, cut into solid rock very steeply ascends a knife-edged sandstone rib, from which cliffs plunge 500 feet or more on either side. Sloping steps cut into the rock make footing precarious. Short segments of chain bolted intermittently to the rock offer occasional handholds, but many exposed stretches offer no such protection. The route is steepest and most exposed just below the top, but once we surmount the crest we simply follow the narrow ridge among scattered ponderosa pines to the high point on the canyon rim (0.5; 5790) where an incredible, aerial-like view unfolds.

Seemingly a stone’s throw away across the gaping maw of Zion Canyon is the Park’s most famous landmark, The Great White Throne. Rivaling some of the world’s greatest stone monoliths in size, form, and relief, its sheer cliffs rear abruptly 2200 feet from the canyon to the broad mesa above. Also capturing our attention is the 1000’ red-stained wall of Cable Mountain. The wooden frame of the Draw Works, constructed by ingenious pioneers to transport lumber from the plateau to the canyon bottom, is visible along the edge of that mountain. The trail leading to that mountain and Observation Point can be traced along the canyon wall as it climbs above the verdant growth engulfing Weeping Rock. Fine cliff-framed views extend southward down Zion Canyon, and North Fork Virgin River is not only seen but heard.

Retrace your steps with caution back to the Grotto trailhead.

Trip 9

Weeping Rock Trail

Distance: 0.5 mile, round trip

Low/High elevations: 4350’/4450’

Suited for: Walk

Difficulty: Easy

Best season: All year

Map/Trailhead: 3/7

Hazards: The trail can be slippery in winter when snow- or ice-covered.

Introduction: This short but moderately steep and paved nature trail (too steep for wheelchairs) offers a host of scenic delights and is a must for anyone visiting Zion. Hanging gardens, shady riparian vegetation, and a dripping alcove nurtured by water emanating from the vast Navajo Sandstone aquifer are but a few of the outstanding features along this trail.

Description: Immediately beyond the parking area, our trail crosses the bridge over Echo Canyon creek and then forks. Hikers bound for Trips 10 and 13 turn right here, but our trail begins climbing a grassy slope above the creek, beneath the spreading branches of boxelder and netleaf hackberry. Interpretive signs all along the trail identify and explain trailside vegetation typical of riparian and hanging-garden habitats.

Where the trail passes a hillside seep, we notice an abundance of scouring rush and, in season, the delicate yellow blooms of cliff columbine. The west-facing slope also harbors creeping hollygrape, maidenhair fern, and false Solomon’s seal—denizens of moist, shady environments.

As we approach the Weeping Rock alcove, velvet ash and Fremont cottonwood spread arching branches over the trail. Canyon wild grape drapes over many trailside trees along the way. Shrub live oak and squawbush, typically found on drier sites, are also present at this merging of habitats. Views from the trail are also exceptional. The sheer red and gray facade of Cable Mountain looms above us to the south, while the isolated red monolith of Angels Landing and other towering canyon walls rise to the plateau rim in the west.

The hike ends at an overlook platform inside the deep, wet alcove of Weeping Rock (0.25; 4450). For a span of 100 yards along the cliff face above us, a continuous rain of spring water nurtures abundant water-loving vegetation. Cementing agents binding the sand grains of the Navajo Sandstone have been dissolved by groundwater and redeposited on the wall above as tufa formations, lending the cliff a corrugated appearance.

Be sure to stay on the trail to avoid trampling the delicate vegetation, and expect to get just as wet when you exit the alcove as you did upon entering it.

Return the way you came.

Trip 10

Weeping Rock to Hidden Canyon, Observation Point

Distance: 2.2 miles, round trip, to Hidden Canyon; 7.4 miles, round trip, to Observation Point

Low/High elevations: 4350’/5100’; 6507’

Suited for: Dayhike

Difficulty: Moderate to Hidden Canyon; strenuous to Observation Point.

Best season: March through November

Maps/Trailhead: 3,4/7

Hazards: Steep dropoffs, little shade; trail should be avoided if thunderstorms threaten. Snow or ice makes travel hazardous from late fall through early spring.

Introduction: This exceptionally scenic trip is most often taken as two separate hikes, but they can be combined for a memorable all-day hike.

The general route of the trail dates back to the time when native Americans inhabited the region, offering them access to the plateaus for hunting and gathering forays. Later, the trail was improved upon by pioneers driving cattle to summer range. The Flanigan brothers used the route while developing their cable draw works on Cable Mountain.

Hidden Canyon is the goal of a moderate hike to a cool and shady hanging canyon, a pleasant retreat on a hot day. The more rigorous trail to Observation Point, although it ascends exceedingly steep cliffs, offers an alternative to the Angels Landing Trail for faint-hearted hikers who wish to revel in what is arguably the finest vista in the Park.

No water is available enroute, so be sure to pack an adequate supply.

Description: From the Weeping Rock parking area (0.0; 4350) we follow the trail as it bridges Echo Canyon creek and bear right where the Weeping Rock Trail (Trip 9) forks left. We quickly exit the narrow ribbon of riparian growth hugging the streambank, climbing steeply at once upon rubbly slide debris. Above this slope we reach concrete pavement and begin ascending a series of moderately steep switchbacks cut into the cliff face beneath the seemingly overhanging wall of Cable Mountain. Views enroute stretch across Zion Canyon to the sentinel rock of Angels Landing.

At the eighth switchback, the signed trail to Hidden Canyon peels off to the right (0.6; 4850), and from here we have a fine view back down to the shady alcove of Weeping Rock. Turning right onto that unpaved trail, we begin switchbacking at a moderate grade amid pines and firs, directly beneath the sheer walls of Cable Mountain. Above this climb, a traverse leads us into a shady chasm supporting Douglas-fir, white fir, ponderosa pine, and velvet ash. Soon the trail exits the chasm via a low but slippery slickrock wall, where acrophobic hikers may be compelled to turn back.

Beyond that traverse, we curve into the mouth of Hidden Canyon, hanging 700 feet above the floor of Zion Canyon. Numerous potholes have been worn into the slickrock Navajo Sandstone floor of the canyon by abrasive runoff waters. These waterpockets are like those commonly encountered in the same rock unit in Capitol Reef National Park, and they may hold water after substantial rains.

Steps cut into the rock allow passage around some of the potholes, but soon we are forced into the narrow, sandy, rocky wash as giant cliffs close in on either side. The trail apparently ends where we dip into the wash (0.5; 5180) and some hikers may be content to go this far, but to others, this mysterious chasm beckons. Douglas-fir, white fir, and ponderosa pine thrive in this relatively cool, moist microclimate within the confines of the canyon. Great sheer cliffs soar heavenward on either side of the narrow, arrow-straight canyon. A number of small alcoves and other erosional features await those who hike the dry wash upstream, for another 0.5 mile or so. Rock climbing skills are necessary to reach the head of the canyon.

Hikers bound for Observation Point will continue on the steadily climbing trail beyond the Hidden Canyon trail junction, switchbacking several more times before curving around a slickrock shoulder and entering Echo Canyon. The trail traverses the south canyon wall above a very narrow slot gorge, but soon declines to the floor of the dry wash, which we follow upstream over slickrock and sand.

After climbing briefly out of the wash, our trail passes above a spectacular inner gorge, 25–30 feet below. This stint shortly leads us into the slot itself, a cool hallway beneath overhanging, red-tinted cliffs. The trail ahead stays north of the wash, meandering into and out of narrow side canyons until finally reaching a signed junction (1.3; 5580), where we part from Trip 13 hikers and bear left.

The Observation Point Trail, concrete-paved and carved into the steep north wall of Echo Canyon, wastes little time gaining elevation as it switchbacks steadily upon that 800-foot-high wall. The steeply sloping Navajo Sandstone slickrock is dotted with shrubs and trees that have gained footholds on narrow ledges wherever enough soil has collected to support them.

Compensating us for our labors are ever-expanding views into the deep canyons of Echo and Zion, above which rise steep cliffs and tree-rimmed plateaus. Don’t let the scenery distract you from the narrow catwalk of the trail, clinging to the face of plunging cliffs. We’ll be able to view the canyons in their full magnificence farther on from the comparative safety of Observation Point.

Above the switchbacks a moderately ascending traverse takes us into the realm of the red and tan rocks of the Temple Cap Formation. Not as massive as the Navajo Sandstone below, this formation is more broken and hence supports a thriving woodland of pinyon and juniper.

Soon the pavement ends and, having attained the brush-clad plateau, we meet the northeast-bound East Mesa Trail (1.5; 6500). Camping is allowed throughout the length of that trail (see Trip 15). Turning left, we proceed west across a brushy promontory of the plateau where greenleaf manzanita and Gambel oak are massed thickly along the trail.

Curving south, we soon reach the canyon rim at Observation Point (0.3; 6507), where a breathtaking panorama explodes upon the scene. Great cliffs, mostly of Navajo Sandstone, rise as much as 2500 feet from the wooded floor of Zion Canyon, streaked with red tapestries of iron minerals and dark patches of desert varnish, their faces fluted and etched by ages of falling rock and abrasive waters. These cliffs march southward in a parade of rugged crags to the canyon’s gaping mouth, framing the distant Vermilion Cliffs.

Outstanding landmarks dominating our view include the sentinel tower of Angels Landing and its eastern extension, The Organ, which together divert North Fork Virgin River. To the south are the Yosemite-like walls abutting Cable Mountain and The Great White Throne.

The alignment pattern of tributary canyons becomes apparent from our vantage point. Most of these canyons, of which Hidden Canyon is a prominent example, have been eroded along joints, or fractures, in the Navajo Sandstone, and trend northwest. Also obvious are the effects of downcutting in the Navajo. We can see by looking into the narrow depths of Hidden Canyon that downcutting proceeds at a much faster rate in this rock than does widening. These narrow depths are the result of millions of years of abrasive runoff waters cutting like a bandsaw deep into that rock layer.

In addition to the Navajo, three other sedimentary layers of rock are visible, beginning atop the plateaus where the reddish Temple Cap Formation forms small platforms and buttes. Below the tall Navajo cliffs are narrow red ledges of the Kayenta Formation, and finally the Springdale Sandstone ledge of the Moenave Formation crops out far below on the flanks of the lower canyon.

A green ribbon of trees accompanies the rushing waters of North Fork Virgin River all along the canyon floor. Following its course downstream, our gaze stretches past Zion Lodge toward the mouth of the canyon. The only other evidence of human influence upon the landscape is the red pavement of the Scenic Drive. Its traffic is, unfortunately, audible from our otherwise peaceful vantage point.

Return the way you came.

Trip 11

Riverside Walk, Orderville Canyon

Distance: 2.0 miles, round trip, to the trail’s end; 6.4 miles, round trip, to Orderville Canyon

Low/High elevations: 4418 ’/4490’; 4610’

Suited for: Walk to trail’s end; dayhike to Orderville Canyon.

Difficulty: Easy to end of trail; moderate to mouth of Orderville Canyon

Best season: Trail open all year, but may be snow-covered at times during winter. River hiking is best from May through September.

Map/Trailhead: 3/8

Hazards: Negligible along trail; deep wading beyond trail’s end over a slippery river bottom, and the possibility of flash floods and cold water. Check on river and weather conditions at the Park Visitor Center.

Introduction: Riverside Walk is Zion’s most heavily used trail, and with good reason. Seeping alcoves, luxurious hanging gardens, shady riparian woodlands, a nearly level trail (paved for wheelchair access), and an ever-narrowing and ever-deepening canyon draw visitors from the world over to hike beyond the trail’s end and into The Narrows, one of the classic canyon treks on the Colorado Plateau.

Slicing into the heart of the Markagunt Plateau, the North Fork Virgin River has carved a canyon 1000–2000 feet deep, and ranging in width from 200 yards at the Temple of Sinawava to barely 20 feet above Orderville Canyon.

To negotiate any part of The Narrows beyond the trail, hikers must be well prepared, and must not underestimate the hazards of wading through a knee-deep river in a narrow flash-flood-prone canyon (see Trip 15 for more information). Few trips in Zion are more rewarding, or potentially more dangerous, than wading the Virgin River through The Narrows on a hot, clear summer day. But forays into the canyon from the Temple of Sinawava are for day hiking only. Hikers planning on a backpack through the length of the canyon must first obtain a backcountry permit, and begin at Chamberlain’s Ranch, hiking downstream. Flash flood danger can make this hike life-threatening. Each hiker is responsible for obtaining updated information on river conditions and weather forecasts from the Visitor Center, and each is responsible for their personal safety.

Never hike into The Narrows alone, and be sure to have a sturdy staff for balance and lightweight, rubber-soled shoes for traction on the slippery river bottom. Hikers can obtain a pamphlet at the Park Visitor Center explaining the hazards and precautions one should take before entering the canyon.

Description: Since this trail is the Park’s most popular, expect plenty of company as you stroll up the trail beyond the parking area (0.0; 4418), flanked by the redrock tower of the Temple of Sinawava on one side and the unimposing red spire of The Pulpit on the other. The trail leads upstream, east of the river, in the shadow of tall, broken cliffs. White fir and Douglas-fir stand tall on the canyon walls above us, while the canyon floor is well-shaded by velvet ash and boxelder. Along the way we’ll pass interpretive signs explaining canyon widening, hanging gardens (where the Zion Rock Snail, a species endemic to The Narrows, makes its home), a rockslide, and a perpetually wet desert swamp. Many visitors enjoy picnicking along the rushing river, and some of them may wish to follow a use trail that turns left only 100 yards from the trailhead, quickly leading to the river’s edge.

The trail ends where the canyon bends northeast (1.0; 4490), and hikers unprepared for river hiking are advised to go no farther. But those who are prepared simply plunge into the river, either crossing to the opposite bank or following its waters upstream. The river is usually only knee-deep, but depending on recent rains or snowmelt runoff, it can be much deeper, and swift. Even during low water, expect some holes to be waist-deep or even deeper. Use your staff to probe deep holes as you proceed.

The canyon becomes increasingly narrow, and even in summer, little sunlight penetrates into this narrow corridor. Boxelder grows on riverside benches in tandem with white fir, a tree typically found on the plateaus 3000 feet above. The river meanders below Orderville Canyon, and along this stretch we can crisscross it between sandy benches, following short trails between crossings.

Mystery Falls, a 100’ cascade backdropped by rugged Mountain of Mystery, is the first of many outstanding features we encounter along the way. As we proceed, we’ll pass numerous springs and seeps nurturing verdant hanging gardens that decorate fluted canyon walls that are stained with streaks of red and dark patches of desert varnish.

As we proceed, we should choose our crossings carefully, as the riverbed is strewn with slippery, moss-covered rocks. Black basalt rocks and boulders, eroded from the plateaus far above, are abundant and particularly slick. Approaching Orderville Canyon we are forced into the river more frequently, as the benches are fewer and widely spaced. Orderville Canyon contributes its small stream to the river (2.2; 4620) where it exits a narrow cleft on our right (east).

Strong dayhikers can continue up-canyon about as far as Big Springs (2.1 miles ahead) but many dayhikers go no farther than Orderville Canyon. That canyon is a challenging hike in its own right, but small waterfalls and other obstacles make much of the route passable only to the experienced canyoneer.

On the return trip, wade the river with care.

Trip 12

Canyon Overlook Trail

Distance: 1.0 mile, round trip

Low/High elevations: 5130’/5240’

Suited for: Walk

Difficulty: Moderately easy

Best season: All year, but the trail should be avoided when ice- or snow-covered, or if thunderstorms threaten.

Map/Trailhead: 2/9

Hazards: Steep dropoffs; no water or shade.

Introduction: This short, self-guided nature trail leads across slickrock to a grand vista point high above Pine Creek Canyon. Views into lower Zion Canyon, 1000 feet below, include some of the most striking landmarks in the Park. The hike should appeal to hikers of varied abilities, and is an especially fine choice for a short stroll if one has limited time or energy.

An interpretive leaflet available at the trailhead or the Visitor Center explains the natural history of the area, and should help hikers to gain knowledge and better appreciate what they encounter along the trail.

Ranger-led walks are frequently conducted along this trail; check the schedule of interpretive activities at the Visitor Center.

Description: From the parking area at the east portal of the Zion-Mt. Carmel Tunnel, carefully cross the highway to the beginning of the trail (0.0; 5130), indicated by a small sign. A series of steps soon leads to a traverse high above the narrow cleft of Pine Creek Canyon. Despite the presence of handrails along exposed stretches, hikers should nonetheless exercise caution throughout the trail’s length.

A variety of seasonal wildflowers adorn the Navajo Sandstone slickrock among such trailside shrubs as squawbush, buffaloberry, singleleaf ash, and shrub live oak, and an occasional Utah juniper.

Where we curve into a prominent but narrow side canyon, maidenhair fern appears in the moist and sheltered habitat beneath an overhanging slab. Other denizens of these rocky environs include singleleaf pinyon, littleleaf mountain mahogany (found exclusively on and near slickrock), and Utah serviceberry. More maidenhair fern is encountered ahead, growing along a seepline that dampens the wall of a trailside alcove.

Upon exiting the side canyon, we continue to follow the seepline, and soon pass a lone Fremont cottonwood, further evidence of ample moisture within the sandstone. The slickrock trail ahead winds among tilted sandstone slabs, soon reaching a fenced overlook (0.5; 5255) perched on the rim above Pine Creek Canyon. The Great Arch, that deep, arch-shaped alcove seen from the highway below, invisible from our vantage, lies just below the brink of the cliff. Thousand-foot slopes plunging from Bridge Mountain and East Temple frame a stirring view of the Towers of the Virgin, a host of rugged crags rising nearly 4000 feet above the canyon floor. A plaque at the overlook identifies many of the prominent landmarks that meet our gaze.

Canyon Overlook

One of the five galleries in the Zion-Mt. Camel Tunnel can be seen on the cliff below. During the three years of construction in the late 1920s, narrow gauge rail cars hauled waste rock from the tunnel to the galleries, from where it was dumped over the cliff into Pine Creek Canyon.

Above us, conspicuous cross-bedding on the face of the Navajo Sandstone, formed as ancient winds swept across a vast sand desert, offer evidence that the world has not always been the same as it is today.

Return the way you came.

Trip 13

East Rim Trail to Weeping Rock via Stave Spring and Echo Canyon

Distance: 10.7-mile, shuttle trip, not including side trips to Deertrap and Cable mountains

Low/High elevations: 4350’/6730’

Suited for: Dayhike or backpack

Difficulty: Moderately strenuous as a dayhike or overnighter.

Best season: May through October

Maps/Trailhead: 4,2,3/10,7

Hazards: Stave Spring is the only water source enroute.

Introduction: Most hikers take this trip as an overnighter to the Stave Spring environs, then hike the spur trails to Cable and/or Deertrap mountain before backtracking to the East Entrance trailhead. Through hikes to Weeping Rock require a car shuttle of about 14.4 miles. Hiking up Echo Canyon from Weeping Rock to Stave Spring—the only reliable water source—is strenuous, regardless of the load you carry.

Vegetation ranges from pinyon-juniper woodlands to stands of oak and pine, and views from the trail are far-ranging and panoramic. Much of the ponderosa pine forest atop the plateau was cut around the turn of the century. The sawmill that operated here is only a memory, but the draw works still standing on the rim of Cable Mountain offer mute evidence of pioneer ingenuity.

Description: The trail begins beyond the locked gate above the trailhead (0.0; 5740) and heads north past a destination and mileage sign. We follow a devious northward course through the broad upper reaches of Clear Creek amid an open woodland of pinyon, juniper, and Gambel oak, their sizes dwarfed by a scattering of ponderosa pines.

The White Cliffs, composed of Navajo Sandstone, rise above us to the north, their flanks stained orange-red in places due to the leaching of hematite from the red shales of the overlying Temple Cap Formation. Narrowleaf yucca, big sagebrush, rabbitbrush, prickly pear, and Utah serviceberry are common trailside shrubs, among which many seasonal wildflowers enliven the landscape.

The trail is actually an old road built to access timber atop the East Rim Plateau, and as we ascend Clear Creek canyon over weathered Navajo Sandstone, the tread is quite sandy. Streams bearing red mud invaded the sandy Navajo Sandstone landscape during the early Jurassic Period, and these waters caused the yet uncemented sands to slump. Now cemented into stone, these slump structures are evident immediately below the Temple Cap in the upper several feet of the Navajo Sandstone.

The Temple Cap sandstones herald our climb out of Cave Canyon, where, upon reaching a switchback, we promptly double back on a higher contour. A reliable spring issues from the canyon 0.1 mile above where we leave its floor.

A mostly gentle climb ensues on sundrenched slopes hosting a woodland of scrubby pinyons and junipers, but also harboring shrubs such as cliffrose, greenleaf manzanita, Utah serviceberry, and scattered Gambel oak. This 0.75-mile stretch of trail can become uncomfortably hot during summer. Next, we curve northwest around the shoulder of a ridge, then traverse above the White Cliffs, which embrace the abyss of lower Jolley Gulch. Enroute we capture fine views across the wooded reaches of Clear Creek’s valley to aptly named Checkerboard Mesa and a host of other forest-crowned tablelands.

After crossing the usually dry wash of Jolley Gulch (2.7; 6080) at the very brink of a dry waterfall, we briefly enjoy cliff-framed views stretching southward before resuming our traverse. Soon we curve into a minor, west-trending gulch, switchback, and shortly thereafter climb northwest onto the gentle slopes of the plateau, presently blanketed by the gray limestone of the Carmel Formation, which forms a gently rolling surface over much of the Markagunt Plateau in Zion.

The limestone tread provides more stable footing as we traverse west beneath the shade of relatively tall ponderosa pines and into a shallow draw. Curving northwest and climbing moderately above the draw, we regain the gentle, well-drained surface of the plateau, clothed not only by ponderosa pines, but by pinyon and juniper as well.

The wooded cliffs of Echo Canyon frame the West Rim

A protracted nearly level stretch of trail ensues across the plateau, where vignettes of the Pink Cliffs and of the vast forests of the Markagunt Plateau to the north help pass the time. Much of the Carmel Formation is masked by vegetation, but gray cobbles in the roadbed attest to its presence.

When we top out on a broad, oak-clad ridge (2.5; 6730), much of the East Rim Plateau stretches out before us far to the north and northwest. Presently we descend slopes clad in pinyon, juniper, Gambel oak, and ponderosa pine, and before long encounter a short spur trail (0.5; 6500) forking left into the draw harboring Stave Spring. A trickle of water issuing from the pipe is our only reliable water source. In 1901, 25,000 barrel staves were probably cut and split nearby. They made up the first load of ponderosa-pine lumber the brothers Flanigan sent down the cable works, primarily to convince skeptics of the feasibility of cabling lumber from the rim to the canyon below.

Camping at the spring is not allowed, so backpackers should tank up here and choose one of many potential campsites well away from the spring, preferably at least 0.25 mile away.

The trail continues descending below the spring, soon passing a reddish outcrop indicating our passage back into the realm of the Temple Cap Formation. Shortly thereafter we meet a signed junction (0.1; 6445) where we ponder our hiking options. The left fork is a spur leading to trails that end at Cable and Deertrap mountains. Some hikers may elect to stay overnight in the area, hiking to either mountain the next day before backtracking to the trailhead. Others may wish to tank up on water at the spring, then spend the night atop the plateau enroute to the two mountains. Still others may wish to hike on through to Echo Canyon and camp among the pines, slick-rock, and towering canyon walls of that drainage.

• • • • •

Deertrap and Cable Mountains

Distance: 3.7 miles to Deertrap Mountain; 3.1 miles to Cable Mountain

Low/High elevations: 6445’/6910’ for Deertrap Mountain; 6445’/6900’ for Cable Mountain

Turning left at Stave Spring junction (0.0; 6445) onto the signed Deertrap Mountain Trail, we ascend a draw southward, initially across a sagebrush-choked flat. Soon the trail leaves the draw, climbing moderately southwest alternately through thickets of Gambel oak and grassy, wildflower-speckled openings. On the plateau, the grade eases as we stroll west to a signed junction (1.2; 6860) with the trail to Cable Mountain, forking right, and the Deertrap Mountain Trail, continuing ahead. Numerous potential campsites can be found enroute to either mountain, but backpackers must have an adequate water supply. Those bound for Deertrap Mountain will continue southwest from the junction and descend easily amid oak groves and grassy clearings into the densely wooded valley above and south of Hidden Canyon. Our trail traverses tan Temple Cap Formation rocks as we enter a draw, its gentle contours contrasting with the shadowy, cliffbound nadir below. We cross the dry course of the draw about 200 yards upstream from an ephemeral spring, then climb steeply west on Temple Cap rocks to a broad ridge crowned with Carmel limestone. From here we enjoy fine views stretching south-southeast over a landscape of domes and cliffs embracing the valley of Clear Creek.

Now we follow the descending trail southwest to the head of The Grotto’s abysmal canyon, then almost top another limestone-capped knoll (6921’). Deertrap Mountain appears to be little more than a broad, wooded bench slightly below us, and with the inspiring vistas we presently enjoy, some hikers may decide to go no farther. But hikers who wish to gaze over a 2500’ precipice into the gaping maw of Zion Canyon will follow the trail over the Carmel-capped knoll, switchbacking down over red Temple Cap rocks, and finally stroll across the rolling bench of Deertrap Mountain to the brink (2.5; 6740) of the great cliffs plunging into the canyon below.

Two of Zion’s most rugged hanging canyons, knifed deep into the plateau, can be seen in full profile opposite our viewpoint—Heaps Canyon to the northwest, above the Emerald Pools amphitheater, and Birch Creek due west, above the Court of the Patriarchs amphitheater to the northwest. Farther down-canyon, The Streaked Wall foregrounds one of the Park’s preeminent landforms, West Temple. With our eyes we can trace the Sand Bench Trail far below as it climbs to the wooded, slide-formed bench below a broad sweep of sheer, colorful cliffs.

Hikers can easily visualize the once-uninterrupted surface of the Markagunt Plateau, as the rim of the plateau opposite looks essentially the same as where we now stand, save for a greater abundance of tall pines.

To the south and southwest tower the bulky crags of Mountain of the Sun and Twin Brothers and the square-edged platform of mighty East Temple. Perched on ledges and shady niches below them are hanging forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas-fir. The green lawns and historic buildings of Zion Lodge, seeming to lie at our feet 2500 feet below, contrast its manicured grounds with the raw and magnificent workings of nature that dominate our senses.

We now have the choice of backtracking to the Cable Mountain Trail, following a faint trail south along the rim for more inspiring vistas, or following a well-worn path north along the rim for 0.5 mile. That path reveals a broader view of Zion Canyon, from Springdale, near the canyon’s mouth, to Angels Landing in its upper reaches. The viewpoint at the end of the trail on a shoulder of the Deertrap Mountain ridge offers a head-on view of monolithic Great White Throne, its nearly level, brushy crown punctuated by a host of Navajo Sandstone hoodoos.

The Cable Mountain Trail, following the course of an old wagon road that led from the plateau-top sawmill to the Draw Works, ascends gradually northwest from the Deertrap Mountain Trail junction for a little while among ponderosa pine and Gambel oak, then begins a steady descent for the remaining distance to the rim.

Enroute, scattered stumps attest to the extensive forest that thrived here prior to 1904, when timber harvesting began in earnest. Today, only scattered ponderosa pines grow on this part of the plateau, and most of them have grown up since the big trees were cut. Timber cutting disturbed the landscape and created sunny openings, and now the plateau is infested with greenleaf manzanita, alderleaf mountain mahogany, pinyon, juniper, and Gambel oak.

Upon entering a pinyon-juniper woodland growing on a northwest-facing slope, we negotiate a single switchback, from where we enjoy splendid vistas of hoodoocapped Great White Throne and the Draw Works on the rim of Cable Mountain, with the immense cliffs of Zion Canyon and the forested platforms above them forming the backdrop.

Below the switchback we stroll northwest over brush-choked slopes, concluding the hike at the headframe of the Draw Works (1.9; 6496). While absorbing the sublime vistas of the Big Bend of Zion Canyon, Angels Landing, Echo Canyon, towering cliffs, and seemingly endless plateaus thick with woodlands of pine and oak from our perch atop 1200’ cliffs, we can reflect on the ingenious operation of transporting much-needed lumber from the forest-rich plateau to the timberless land below.

The tenacious spirit of early Mormon settlers and the painstaking trial-and-error efforts of David Flanigan led to the realization of the prophecy of Brigham Young that “like a hawk flies,” a way would be discovered to transport lumber from the plateau down the great cliffs into Zion Canyon.

Trees felled and milled on the East Rim Plateau helped to build structures in communities along the Virgin River from Springdale to St. George. The original Zion Lodge was built with ponderosa pine lumber in the 1920s.

The headframe of the Draw Works that remains today, stabilized with cables and on the National Register of Historic Places, is the third such structure, the two before it having been consumed by fire. Do not damage or deface this historic structure in any way, and exercise caution when walking near the cliff edge.

While the time required to transport a load of lumber to the canyon bottom was only 2½ minutes, those planning to hike there will be on the trail for another three hours.

• • • • •

Upon returning to the trail junction below Stave Spring, hikers continuing to Weeping Rock will turn left and descend easily across a sagebrush-infested flat. A spur trail, actually an old road closed to vehicles, forks right (0.3; 6390), leading 0.5 mile to an obscure trailhead at the Park’s eastern boundary (see Trip 14).

Our route proceeds across a gently sloping basin, rimmed by low mesas clad in pinyon and juniper. As the draw steepens and curves northwest, we begin traversing a narrow wooded bench above a precipitous gorge and leaving any potential campsites behind until Echo Canyon, more than a mile ahead.

Pinyon-juniper woodlands dominate alongside the trail, but the shady cliffs above the canyon below us harbor hanging forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas-fir. Views extend down the cleft of Echo Canyon, past the Observation Point Trail to the cliffs abutting the west rim beyond.

The traverse suddenly terminates high above the floor of Echo Canyon (0.8; 6430), a slickrock-embraced chasm dotted with tall ponderosa pines and rimmed by wooded mesas. Now the rocky trail plunges steeply down the upper wall of a side canyon, amid a greater diversity of trees and shrubs, including Douglas-fir, ponderosa pine, pinyon, juniper, cliffrose, greenleaf manzanita, and Utah serviceberry. Soon the trail leads us down a steep, rocky rib above an Echo Canyon tributary thick with pines and Douglas-firs. In autumn Gambel oaks and bigtooth maples splash their red and gold foliage across the landscape, contrasting with the white cliffs above and the somber green conifer forest.

After we enjoy down-canyon views, the descent briefly ends where we cross Echo Canyon’s dry wash (0.9; 5610), along which the descent continues. Numerous potential campsites can be found not only up-canyon but atop the numerous rocky, pine-studded knolls that rise north of the wash. The canyon is waterless, but the overwhelming quiet, sheer, crenulated cliffs, the green plateau above us, and tall pines combine to make the area sublimely attractive.

The trail ahead alternates between rock and sand, and although it descends, progress is fairly slow. After bending into three north-trending draws, our rough, undulating trail finally crosses slickrock where the route is indicated by cairns. Soon after sighting the Draw Works atop Cable Mountain’s mineral-streaked walls, we join the trail (1.0; 5580) climbing toward Observation Point and enter the front-country zone, which is closed to camping.

To complete the trek, follow the first part of Trip 10 in reverse, hiking the final 1.9 miles to the Weeping Rock parking area.

Trip 14

East Boundary to Echo Canyon Trail

Distance: 0.5 mile, one way, to Echo Canyon Trail

Low/High elevations: 6390’/6450’

Suited for: Dayhike when combined with East Rim trails (see Trip 13)

Difficulty: Easy

Best season: May through October

Map/Trailhead: 4/11

Hazards: Negligible

Introduction: This seldom-trod spur trail offers quick access to the Stave Spring environs, allowing jaunts to Cable and Deertrap mountains to be completed in less than a day. Although the drive to the trailhead can be confusing, the easy access to the backcountry of Zion more than compensates for the extra time required behind the wheel.

Description: Beginning at a gate on the Park’s eastern boundary (0.0; 6450), we follow a long-closed road gently downhill under a canopy of ponderosa pine. Crossing to the south side of the draw, we descend almost imperceptibly among scattered Gambel oaks, soon passing an outcrop of the Temple Cap Formation on the right.

Shortly thereafter we break into the open, cross a sagebrush-clad flat, and gently descend to meet the Echo Canyon Trail (0.5; 6390), Trip 13.

From here it will take most hikers little more than two hours to reach either Cable or Deertrap mountains. Stave Spring, a modest but reliable source of water, dampens the draw only 0.4 mile up the trail to the south.

Trip 15

East Mesa Trail to Observation Point Trail

Distance: 3.2 miles, one way, to Observation Point Trail

Low/High elevations: 6500’/6815’

Suited for: Dayhike or backpack

Difficulty: Easy

Best season: May through October

Maps/Trailhead: 4,3/12

Hazards: No water; trail should be avoided if thunderstorms threaten.

Introduction: Beginning at a remote trailhead on the eastern fringes of the Park, the seldom-used East Mesa Trail follows a broad promontory that juts westward from the rolling shoulders of the Markagunt Plateau toward the rim of Zion Canyon.

Excepting the curious, roughly westward alignment of Echo and Orderville canyons, between which the East Mesa is wedged, all the canyons viewed from this trail follow the jointed grain of the landscape in a north-northwest direction. Woodlands of Gambel oak, juniper, pinyon, and ponderosa pine are thickly massed atop the mesa, and offer ample shelter for the many potential campsites passed along the way. Most hikers however, use this trail for the quick and easy access it provides to the overlook at Observation Point (see Trip 10).

Description: The East Mesa Trail, actually the faded remains of a long-closed road, begins at a hiker’s gate (0.0; 6520) allowing passage through a fenceline along the Park’s eastern boundary. Designed to keep grazing cattle out of the Park, fences have been erected along much of the perimeter of Zion. Nevertheless, the presence of cattle and sheep beyond Park boundaries at the headwaters of La Verkin Creek and North Fork Virgin River have fouled those backcountry water sources, necessitating purification.

Beginning in a woodland of pinyon and juniper, we find taller ponderosa pines mixing into the forest as we progress westward, ascending gently along the plateau. Views enroute stretch far to the north and northwest, where the two-tiered surface of the Markagunt Plateau becomes apparent. Much of the extensive southern tier is exposed to our gaze. This is the plateau—the Kolob Terrace—in which North Fork Virgin River has cut Zion Canyon. The upper tier, considerably higher in elevation and capped by geologically recent lava flows, is bounded by the Pink Cliffs of the Claron Formation, relatively soft Eocene lakebed sediments that compose the cliffs of Cedar Breaks National Monument and those of Bryce Canyon National Park.

Enroute, we can briefly detour north from the trail at points 1.25 and 2.2 miles from the trailhead, to the rim, where exceptional views unfold, overlooking Orderville and Mystery canyons, drainages that are densely forested with pine, white fir, and Douglas-fir, the trend of their courses controlled by jointing in the Navajo Sandstone.

Eventually the trail turns southwest, following the crest of the mesa. Then, just above the south arm of Mystery Canyon, it gently ascends to the summit of our hike (2.3; 6815). Shortly we arc westward over the crunchy Carmel limestone, then begin a steady descent south into a pinyon, juniper, and oak woodland. Approaching the foot of the descent, we circumnavigate the head of a plunging Zion Canyon tributary, and conclude the hike on a shadier slope among ponderosa pines, Douglas-firs, and thickets of Gambel oak, greenleaf manzanita, and Utah serviceberry.

At the junction (0.9; 6500) we have the choice of either backtracking to the trailhead, turning right to Observation Point (0.3 mile), or going left and descending to Weeping Rock trailhead (see Trip 10).

Trip 16

The Narrows: Chamberlain’s Ranch to Temple of Sinawava

Distance: 17.5 miles, shuttle trip

Low/High elevations: 4418’/5830’

Suited for: Backpack

Difficulty: Strenuous

Best season: Clear days in summer

Maps/Trailheads: 5,6,3/13,8

Hazards: Wading a river through a deep and narrow slickrock canyon (see Introduction for details).

Introduction: The famous Narrows of Zion Canyon is one of the classic canyon hiking trips on the Colorado Plateau. This hike is perhaps the most exciting and challenging trip in all of Utah’s national parks. Throughout most of the canyon’s 17-mile length, much of your time will be spent wading through knee-deep waters. Depending on water levels, some swimming may be required through deeper holes.

The optimum season for the trip is from early to mid-summer. During that time, the river has receded from snowmelt runoff and the probability of thunderstorms is usually low. Temperatures are typically hot by mid-June, and a summer hike through the shady depths of the canyon is refreshing and enjoyable. From about mid-July through mid-September, Utah experiences its monsoon season, when thunderstorms can occur frequently, sometimes daily. These heavy rains increase the probability of rising water levels and flash flooding. The canyon can be hiked during this season, but extreme caution is advised.

Autumn brings cooler weather and shorter days, with cold water increasing the chances of hypothermia. At that time of year, hikers must proceed steadily through the canyon, beginning at dawn in order to complete the hike before dark.

Backcountry permits must be obtained for overnight hikes and dayhikes through the length of the canyon. Overnight hikers must begin at Chamberlain’s Ranch, hiking downstream. Permits are not required for dayhikes in part of the canyon. Permits will be issued no more than 24 hours in advance. Hikers are limited to no more than one night’s stay in the canyon. Conditions can change rapidly, and there are risks that must be considered.

General rules for safety and common sense for canyon hiking are especially important for a backpack in The Narrows, considering the river has such a large watershed. As one hikes through the canyon, observe the high-water mark, usually a dark line on the canyon walls, below which the sandstone is polished smooth and shiny.

Always be aware of possible escape routes to higher ground. Changes in the water, from clear to turbid, an increase in the current and in water level, and in the worst case, the roar of rushing waters upstream, are indicators of a flash flood. Seek high ground immediately; you cannot outrun floodwaters. The river should recede within 24 to 48 hours after heavy rains have stopped.

Be sure to wear good, rubber-soled boots that provide ankle support and remain lightweight when wet, and a sturdy walking stick to aid balance and probe deep holes. Some hikers use two ski poles instead of a walking stick. When hiking in cold temperatures, consider wearing polypropylene thermal long underwear, since it will keep you warm even when wet. Shorts are best for wading the river, since bare legs offer less friction. All hikers should carry a pack with extra food and clothing in waterproof containers or plastic bags. Backpackers should likewise protect their additional gear, which should include shoes for wear around camp.

Avoid drinking river water if possible, but if you must, purify it, as the river drains the summer range of cattle and sheep. Instead, draw your water from any of the numerous springs enroute, which still should be purified. Some hikers may prefer to carry all their water.

Backpackers may think that hiking downstream sounds easy, but the current will tend to pull your feet out from under you. Don’t try to fight the current as you move in the river. When heading downstream, it is best to walk across the river at an angle. Rough water and deep holes can usually be avoided; plan ahead and proceed with caution. Take this hike only if you are in good physical condition and have adequate cross-country experience. The Park Service recommends that hikers be at least 12 years of age and 56 inches or taller to hike in The Narrows.

North Fork Virgin River near Chamberlain’s Ranch

A car shuttle of about 34.3 miles is required and 10–12 hours of hiking are necessary to complete the trip. When you obtain your backcountry permit at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center, you will be informed about weather forecasts and river conditions, and you will be given a pamphlet full of detailed information about the hazards you will encounter, and the precautions to take on a hike through The Narrows.

Backpackers will be assigned one of 12 designated campsites in The Narrows, located between the Park boundary near the first section of narrows and 300 yards upstream from Big Springs. Backpackers will be given a map and description of all campsites when they obtain their permit.

Description: Our trek gets underway where the 4WD road fords North Fork Virgin River (0.0; 5830). Unless the river is low, we’ll get our feet wet at once. Beyond the crossing, we follow the road westward, heading downstream on the south flood-plain and skirting sloping meadows—part of Chamberlain’s Ranch—where cattle and horses graze in summer. The surroundings give little intimation of the deep and narrow cleft that lies ahead. Rolling ridges, clad in pinyon, juniper, oak, and various shrubs, rise north and south of the canyon. In autumn these hills are brilliantly colored with the golds of oaks and the reds of squawbush.

After an easy mile, a right-branching road leading down to a stockpond should be avoided. Shortly we pass through a gate and close it behind us. Passing the old Bulloch Cabin (2.4; 5620), the road soon drops to the banks of the small river, little more than a mountain stream here in its upper reaches. Here (0.5; 5540) we must ford the river or boulder hop to the north bank, continuing down the road.

In the next half mile, we follow the road as it crosses the river several more times. Low Navajo Sandstone cliffs begin to encroach upon the canyon, and ponderosa pines begin to supplant the woodlands that dominate upstream. The road eventually fades, and a trail continues to take us from one side of the river to the other.

As the cliffs rise higher and the canyon becomes increasingly narrow, the sheltered microclimate thus created supports Douglas-fir, white fir, and bigtooth maple. Hikers should begin to take notice of the high-water mark. Sticks and branches on ledges above the canyon, wrapped around riverside trees, or high on benches are evidence of past flash floods. Flood waters can reach 8 feet or more above the normal level of the river here in the canyon’s upper reaches, and in The Narrows proper below Big Springs, the river may rise as much as 20 feet.

In certain moist, shady locales, the thick growth of maple and fir may remind hikers more of the Pacific Northwest than of the stereotypical parched desert lands of Utah. Forming the understory in the shady forest are plants one might also associate with a northwest forest, such as red-osier dogwood, pachystima (mountain-lover), dogbane, creeping hollygrape, and false Solomon’s seal.

After 6 miles and about 3½ hours of hiking, we encounter the first truly narrow section of the canyon, where the river briefly enters Park lands. Here canyon walls soar 500 feet above us. By this time, we have been wading in the river for some time, and the wade will continue for much of the remainder of the trip. Ahead the canyon becomes even more deeply entrenched between lofty cliffs, and after 7 miles we encounter a 12’ waterfall plunging over a resistant sandstone ledge. A short trail through a narrow gap to the left of the falls allows us to proceed.

We reach the confluence with Deep Creek (6.5; 4940) after about five hours. The river is noticeably larger downstream, as Deep Creek increases its volume by two thirds, and its waters are colder and less turbid than the North Fork’s.

Thus far, the gradient of the river has averaged 130 feet per mile, but downstream from Deep Creek the gradient slackens to an average of 71 feet per mile. Our progress is slower now in the larger stream, but the slower pace allows us to enjoy the numerous springs and seeps farther downstream. Many of them support hanging gardens, where we may observe a Calliope hummingbird feeding on the nectar of columbines or, where insects gather near seeps, we may glimpse a Say’s phoebe feeding upon them.

By noticing the side canyons that join the river, we can gauge our downstream progress. Narrow Kolob Creek canyon enters from the northwest after 10.3 miles and nearly 6 hours from the trailhead. Its waters are impounded in Kolob Reservoir high atop the plateau, and hence its course may be dry during the summer. About 0.5 mile below Kolob Creek is one of the gems of The Narrows. The Grotto, a deep, cavelike alcove where verdant growth is nurtured by constantly dripping water, has been used as a sheltered campsite. The springs across the river offer a good water source.

Small Goose Creek enters from the northwest at 11.5 miles, about 30 minutes beyond The Grotto. If time allows, Goose Creek, as well as Kolob and Deep creeks, make worthwhile side-trips. Less than one hour below Goose Creek is gushing Big Springs, 12.2 miles from Chamberlain’s Ranch. The most voluminous springs in the canyon, Big Springs’ waters maintain a year-round temperature of 50-degrees F., spouting out of the canyon wall and pouring over boulders thick with mosses and adorned with maidenhair fern, cardinal flower, monkey flower, and columbine.

The following 2.1 miles to the mouth of Orderville Canyon lie in eternal shadow. The canyon is an empty hallway, save for the brawling river, hemmed in by water-worn cliffs that tower nearly 2000 feet overhead. This stretch has the deepest pools, and hikers should proceed with caution. This segment is also the narrowest, with no place to escape from floodwaters, and at times we are funnelled between walls barely 20 feet apart. Here the canyon deviates little from a straight line, and between cliffs that seem to overhang the river only a narrow ribbon of sky can be seen. Try to find sandbars or shallows to avoid the deeper holes.

At 14.3 miles, after hiking for nearly 3 hours from Big Springs, we encounter Orderville Canyon. This is the first major canyon that enters on the east. From here downstream we join an increasing number of dayhikers, and follow the directions of Trip 11 in reverse, criss-crossing the river for 2.2 miles to the tread of Riverside Walk, which we follow for the final mile to Temple of Sinawava trailhead.

Trip 17

Kolob Terrace Road to The Subway

Distance: 7.8 miles, round trip

Low/High elevations: 4630’/5360’

Suited for: Dayhike

Difficulty: Moderate

Best season: April through November

Map/Trailhead: 7/14

Hazards: Poor trail and occasional scrambling, slippery slickrock, and much boulder hopping.

Introduction: This day-long trip, much of it following a poor, boot-worn trail, is recommended for experienced hikers only. The route has received a dramatic increase in use in recent years and permits are required to hike here. But daily entry quotas on the number of permits helps maintain the canyon’s wild character. The Left Fork is a day-use area only; no overnight camping is allowed.

Prominent features on the hike include young lava flows contrasting with ancient sedimentary rocks, well-preserved fossil dinosaur tracks, and The Subway, a unique slot canyon.

Summer is a hot time to take this hike, though the shady confines of The Subway offer a modicum of relief on a hot day. Spring and fall are best for this trip.

Description: The well-worn trail (0.0; 5125) begins from the north end of the parking area behind the information signboard, beyond which we proceed generally east across the wooded, basalt-capped upland, soon crossing two dry forks of Grapevine Wash. The bench is thickly cloaked in a woodland of juniper and singleleaf pinyon, with an understory of shrub live oak, Utah serviceberry, cliffrose, yucca, and greenleaf manzanita.

Other paths join our route as we proceed, all of them leading to the rim ahead. Upon reaching the canyon rim (0.6; 5050) the basalt tread is replaced by red Kayenta Formation rocks, although they are much obscured by talus blocks fallen from the tall Navajo Sandstone cliffs above us to the north. Hiking with care, we descend the steep talus slope toward the canyon bottom. Numerous use trails, some cairned by past hikers, thread their way down the steep, slippery slope. Choose the path you are most comfortable with.

After 420 feet of descent, we reach the boulder-strewn banks of perennial Left Fork North Creek (0.2; 4630). Above us to the west, a thick basalt caprock bounds the north side of the canyon. Along parts of the cliff are vertical columns, formed as the lava cooled and subsequently shrunk.

It is an unusual sight on the Colorado Plateau to see volcanic rocks in juxtaposition with ancient sedimentary rocks. But in Quaternary and Tertiary times, a great quantity of volcanic material erupted onto the surface of Utah’s High Plateaus. In Zion, an abundance of basalt issued from vents and cinder cones, associated with fault zones in the western margin of the Park. From our canyon-bottom vantage point, we can gaze at a cross-section of 16 different basalt flows that emanated from vents near Spendlove Knoll in upper Cave Valley to the northwest, approximately 260,000 years ago. The flows filled our canyon to a depth of 500 feet, damming the creek and forming a lake. Later, after lake waters breached the dam, the Left Fork North Creek began cutting a new stream channel along the margins of the lava flows.

Once on the canyon floor, we are on our own and must seek the path of least resistance, boulder hopping our way up the canyon from one side of the small stream to the other. Occasional deeper pools in the stream harbor a few large cutthroat trout. Just short of Pine Spring Wash we cross the East Cougar Mountain fault, where Kayenta rocks abruptly give way to rocks of the Moenave Formation. Shortly beyond, Pine Spring Wash enters from the north (0.5; 4780), and shortly thereafter, Little Creek, a perennial stream, also enters from the north (0.2; 4830).

The Subway, Left Fork North Creek

Tall Navajo Sandstone cliffs soon begin to border the canyon to the north and south. Pay attention to a row of pinnacles on the skyline to the north, and as we pass beneath them, begin to look for large, tilted slabs of Kayenta mudstones above the north bank of the creek. A few large gray slabs display numerous fossil dinosaur tracks. These tracks and others like them in the Kayenta Formation are all that remain in the Zion region (since no fossil bones have yet been found) to remind us of the three-toed reptiles that roamed over muddy floodplains 200 million years ago.

Proceeding along the canyon among velvet ash, Fremont cottonwood, Gambel oak, and an occasional water birch, we eventually reach the first obstacle (2.0; 5280), where an undercut cliff and waterfall bars farther progress along the streambed. Search for a trail that bypasses the fall on the south side of the canyon. This trail leads us past seeplines and hanging gardens at the Kayenta-Navajo interface. Once above this waterfall, we continue along the path, bypassing another fall just above it, then quickly regain the streambed.

During periods of low runoff, much of the creek is funnelled into a small, narrow joint in the streambed. Abrasive stream waters will deepen this slot more rapidly than they will widen it. It is likely that The Subway and many of Zion’s other slot canyons formed under similar circumstances.

From here on we are forced to walk on the canyon floor, where the stream flows as a sheet over moss-covered slickrock, making footing treacherous. Following the canyon as it curves southeast, we soon reach the entrance to the aptly named Subway (0.4; 5360), a narrow, tunnel-like slot carved into the canyon bottom. This is a strange, empty hallway carved in stone, with only the echo of running water to keep us company. Above the tunnel, the canyon narrows into a mere slit between sandstone walls, then widens beyond, soaring 800 feet to the south canyon rim.

Hikers can proceed upstream, the route still confined to the canyon floor, but a waterfall bars farther progress a short distance beyond The Subway. Some experienced canyoneers follow a route down Russell Gulch from the Wildcat Canyon Trail (Trip 19), rappelling over the falls and hiking down the Left Fork to the trailhead on Kolob Terrace Road. (Those taking that route still must obtain a permit.)

Return the way you came.

Trip 18

Kolob Terrace Road to Hop Valley, La Verkin Creek

Distance: 13.8 miles, round trip

Low/High elevations: 5280’/6380’

Suited for: Dayhike or backpack

Difficulty: Moderate

Best season: April through October

Maps/Trailhead: 8,11/15

Hazards: Expect to encounter cattle on a private inholding in the upper parts of Hop Valley, and purify any water you obtain there.

Introduction: Following a highly scenic and less-used route to La Verkin Creek and Kolob Arch, this attractive trail leads through incomparable Hop Valley, a long, green meadow with a backdrop of soaring red cliffs. Three designated backcountry campsites are located in lower Hop Valley, with 21 more sites located along the La Verkin Creek Trail.

This trip is best taken as a backpack, but strong dayhikers can hike to Kolob Arch and back in one long day.

Description: The initial segment of the trail, to the 4WD road 1.6 miles ahead, was constructed in 1987, thus avoiding the roads formerly used to access Hop Valley. This trail heads generally north from the trailhead (0.0; 6380), descending at first, then rising gently beneath picturesque, pine-dotted knolls of Navajo Sandstone, lying at the foot of the Firepit Knoll cinder cone. Lava flows that issued from the cone have buried much of the sandstone in the area, as well as the valley through which we are presently hiking.

Our sandy trail meanders along the eastern margin of the valley, threading its way among Gambel oaks, sagebrush, prickly pear, and a host of seasonal wildflowers. Prominent landmarks include 7410’ Red Butte to the northwest and 7265’ Firepit Knoll, its brushy slopes rising above the trail to the east. To the north, a wall of sheer salmon-tinted cliffs rises above as-yet-invisible La Verkin Creek valley.

As we pass beneath the basalt-crowned rim north of Firepit Knoll, conspicuous Burnt Mountain soon meets our gaze on the distant northwest skyline. Typical of the mesas in Zion, its wooded crown contrasts with abruptly plunging cliffs. Upon reaching a hikers’ gate (1.6; 6342) we pass through a fenceline, entering a 400-acre private inholding, through which we will be hiking for the next 2.5 miles. Expect the possibility of encountering cattle beyond the gate, and as you pass through private land, respect landowner rights.

Our route presently follows a rough road that soon curves north past a field cleared of sagebrush. We quickly pass more such clearings before descending amid ponderosa pines and Gambel oaks to the crossing of a small, dry wash, beyond which we climb to a minor ridge with a fork in the sandy road (0.5; 6300).

Bearing right, we begin a steady, moderately steep descent beneath broken, hoodoo-capped cliffs. As we proceed down the oak- and juniper-dotted ridge, we soon glimpse the grassy, narrow spread of Hop Valley. The broken cliffs rising above it frame a memorable view of the tall cliffs rising above La Verkin Creek to the north.

A knee-jarring descent on a series of steep, rocky switchbacks finally gets us to level ground, where we cross a dry, sandy wash (1.0; 5850), then proceed northwest along its east bank. A sluggish stream soon emerges from the sands of the wash, and we continue along the grassy banks to the head of Hop Valley, where an interesting side canyon joins from the east, also boasting a small stream.

The grassy spread of Hop Valley that lies before us is truly one of the gems of Zion. Its exceedingly flat floor, narrowly wedged between 600’ cliffs, seems an enigma; there is nothing else in the Park quite like it. Hikers familiar with the backcountry of the Needles District in Canyonlands National Park will recognize its similarity to The Grabens there. But unlike a down-faulted graben valley, Hop Valley was formed initially as a result of erosion; later, its floor was buried in lakebed sediments.

Part of the ridge northeast of Burnt Mountain, the prominent mesa rising 2000 feet above the lower end of the valley, experienced a major landslide approximately 1500 years ago, which dammed the canyon and formed a lake nearly 0.5 mile long. Geologists have found evidence to suggest that the dam was breached only about 200 years ago. Much of the lakebed sediment remains, giving the valley its flat profile.

To proceed through the valley, we follow either the streambanks or cattle trails, eventually passing a branch canyon (1.0; 5740) emerging from the cliffs to the northeast. Shortly thereafter, another canyon enters the valley from the southwest. Next we encounter the heavily wooded, gaping mouth of Langston Canyon (0.5; 5720), joining the valley on our right (northeast). That canyon is worthy of exploration if time allows, but cliffs and steep dropoffs block progress after a short distance up it.

Climbing to a hikers’ gate at the northernmost fenceline (0.6; 5700), we then stroll along the boxelder-shaded bench before descending back to the valley bottom. The 3 designated campsites in Hop Valley are located north of that gate.

Presently we hop across the small creek and follow its west bank downstream. Soon we bid farewell to the beautiful valley and climb steeply northwest to a pine-studded hill, beyond which the trail descends gently along a broad bench. This bench is composed of landslide debris fallen from the ridge northeast of Burnt Mountain, the cliff-bound mesa that towers overhead.

Soon the trail leads us through several curious depressions pockmarking the slide debris. As the mass of rock broke away from the walls above us and began to slide downhill, a large volume of air was trapped beneath the slide and compressed by the overlying debris. The trapped air escaped by erupting from the slide, and thus the depressions were formed.

Reaching the northern edge of the bench, we begin to descend steadily via switchbacks amid Gambel oak thickets to the La Verkin Creek Trail (1.7; 5350). From here, we ponder our options of either returning the way we came, turning right to reach Beartrap Canyon and Willis Creek, or turning left and hiking down La Verkin Creek canyon (see Trip 23). Kolob Arch, a popular destination and justifiably so, is but a mile away via the left fork.

Trip 19

Wildcat Canyon and Northgate Peaks Trails

Distance: 6.0 miles, shuttle trip, plus 2.4 miles, round trip, to Northgate Peaks overlook.

Low/High elevations: 6910’/7460’

Suited for: Dayhike or backpack

Difficulty: Moderate

Best season: May through October

Map/Trailheads: 9/16, 17

Hazards: No water.

Introduction: This scenic trip leads the hiker from the lava rimrock to the sandstone realm of lofty domes and crags, as seen from the Northgate Peaks Trail and Pine Valley. The moderately used trail features oak-rimmed meadows, a gushing spring, and peaceful, park-like forests of ponderosa pine. Camping is allowed east of Pine Valley and the Northgate Peaks Trail junction.

The trail can be followed in either direction, but starting near Lava Point involves the least amount of ascent. A car shuttle is necessary to avoid retracing your steps. For a shorter dayhike (5 miles, round trip) without the car shuttle, take a round-trip from the lower, or Pine Valley, trailhead to Northgate Peaks overlook.

During early spring, when the Kolob Terrace Road to Lava Point may be blocked by snow, hikers must then begin the hike at the Pine Valley Trailhead. The lower part of the trail near that trailhead is often used by cross-country skiers during winter, and much of the gentle terrain of the Lower Kolob Terrace is well suited for ski touring.

Description: From the West Rim Trailhead (0.0; 7460) we stroll 150 yards down the oak-lined trail and part company with hikers taking Trip 20, turning right onto the signed Wildcat Canyon Trail. The basalt-capped rim of Lava Point rises above us to the northwest, its crest adorned with white fir forest.

Soon we pass an old grain drill, attesting to an early dry farming venture. Wheat and grass were once raised here to provide feed for livestock. The trail is actually an old road for much of the way. The road provided access to farmland and timber on the plateau. An abundance of Gambel oak attests to early logging ventures throughout much of the Lower Kolob Plateau. As sundrenched openings were created by the felling of conifer trees, the oaks, which prefer dry, sunny sites on the plateaus, quickly grew to dominate the forest.

Lava Point fades from view as we begin a descent into a small side canyon amid Gambel oak and Rocky Mountain maple. Curving into the upper reaches of Wildcat Canyon after 1.3 miles, we glimpse the white cliffs that embrace the rugged lower parts of the canyon to the south. Ahead of us on the canyon’s west side, the volcanic rim gives way to rubbly slopes composed of slide debris, decorated by a scattering of white fir, aspen, oak and maple. Reaching the dry wash in the canyon bottom (1.6; 7050), we encounter a variety of colorful wildflowers, including silky lupine, skyrocket gilia, and broom groundsel in autumn. The canyon is thickly clad in a forest of white fir, ponderosa pine, Gambel oak, and Rocky Mountain maple.

As we begin a southwestward ascent across a slope of black basalt boulders, we are treated to fine views down-canyon, the walls framing square-edged buttes and smooth sandstone cliffs. A reliable, unnamed spring (0.3; 7120), overgrown with bracken fern, issues from the broken lava above the trail. This spring is our best source of water along the entire trail, but no potential campsites exist along the trail for the following mile, so backpackers should tank up here.

View from Northgate Peaks Trail