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PRUNING AND PROPAGATING

Of all the many toils and anxieties that beset the path of the amateur rosarian, I think we may safely say pruning is the chief. The rules to be observed are few. The idiosyncrasies of each rose are many. And the demands upon one's own judgment and initiative are constant.

Two things have to be considered before we begin the puzzling task. Are we growing our roses for exhibition, or at all events for a very few very perfect blooms? Or are we growing them for quantity, for mere enjoyment, on the "cut and come again" principle, which enables one not only to fill the house without robbing the garden, but to fill the hands of every one who comes into the garden and looks at the masses of blossom with longing eyes?

As I do not exhibit, the second plan is the one I have studied most closely. For the other I must refer my readers to my friend the Rev. F. Page-Roberts' valuable notes, on how to grow and show roses in Chapter XI.

When to prune.—The old-fashioned plan of pruning all roses in the autumn has now been, happily for their well-being, given up in England. It was owing to this that many of the earlier varieties of Tea roses, and even some of the Bourbons and Hybrid Perpetuals, were considered 50 years ago too "tender" to plant freely out of doors.

Pruning now begins in February, and goes on through March and April.

In February we begin to prune the Rugosas; Boursaults; Sempervirens; and Ayrshires.

In February and early March, the Provence; Moss; miniature Provence; many of the Species, such as Alpina, Moschata, and Bracteata, and their hybrids.

In early March the Gallica; Damask; Alba; Hybrid Chinas; and Sweet Briars. To be followed by Hybrid Bourbons; Hybrid Noisettes and Musks; Austrian and Scotch Briars; Multifloras; Ramblers; Wichuraianas; Chinas; Dijon Teas; dwarf Polyanthas; and dwarf and standard Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas.

Climbing varieties of Noisettes, Teas, Hybrid Teas, and Hybrid Perpetuals, may be thinned out, if necessary, after flowering in summer. But they must be pruned in March.

In April the Teas and Noisettes, both dwarf and standard, and the Banksian roses are pruned.

How to prune.—This is a much-disputed subject among rose growers, and as authorities differ widely with regard to it, some advocating hard pruning, and others just as strongly swearing by light pruning, so do they differ as to the instrument to be used. The pruning knife is most generally recommended; while the sécateur, so universally in use on the Continent, is advised merely for the cutting of dead wood. But the knife has its disadvantages, especially in the hands of a woman. For not only may one get an ugly cut with it: but even in a man's hands I have seen the plant pulled about more than I like, in cutting a tough branch. I am therefore delighted to find that so great an authority as the Rev. J. H. Pemberton advocates the use of the sécateur for all pruning, as for many years I have used nothing else. The amount of time and strength it saves one is infinite, to say nothing of the comfort of so handy a weapon.

There are, however, sécateurs and sécateurs—and a poor one is worse than useless. Its blades must be as sharp as a razor, and so accurately set that they make a perfectly clean cut right through, without pinching the branch or tearing the bark. In choosing one, it is well to try it on a sheet of tissue paper. If it cuts the paper like a sharp pair of scissors, it is all right. But if it curls the paper round the blade, instead of making a clean cut, it is to be avoided. After trying many different makes, I have found that the Sécateur Montreuil, which I have now procured for several years from MM. Vilmorin, Andrieux et Cie., 4, Quai de la Megisserie, Paris, is far the best I can get. It costs 8 francs, and is made in three sizes.

As to hard-and-fast rules in pruning, there are but two.

Fig. 2a.—Rosebush requiring light pruning—unpruned.

Fig. 2b.—Rosebush requiring light pruning—pruned.

1.—Rose Requiring Moderate Pruning. Unpruned.

1.—Rose Requiring Moderate Pruning. Pruned.

1. Prune weak-growing roses much harder than strong-growing roses. As the object of pruning is to throw the sap into the young shoots which will start from the dormant buds or "eyes," in order to make them flower, a weak-growing rose must be pruned hard so as to concentrate all the vigour of the plant on the few dormant buds we leave. While if we prune a strong-growing rose very hard we only make it throw yet longer shoots, which soon get out of all bounds, and run to wood and not to blossom.

2. Always prune to a dormant bud which points outwards. This is done to keep the centre of the plant comparatively free, by preventing the shoots crossing and choking each other.

In pruning we have to keep two objects ever in view. In the first place we must prune in order to get rid of all dead wood, and weak, unripe and useless shoots, thus enabling the young healthy wood to take their place. And secondly we must prune so as to keep the plant in good shape and good health, by cutting back the strong and healthy wood we leave to a suitable length.

If the winter has been mild, we shall find many buds on the upper part of strong shoots of last year's growth, which are already bursting into leaf and even showing a flower bud. And it seems so brutal to destroy these, that I know one is often tempted to leave some to take their chance, instead of hardening one's heart and sternly cutting down to just above the first dormant bud. But when the plants really start in May, we pay for our tender-hearted folly by blind unhealthy shoots which only disfigure the plant, while the real flower shoots are starting below and cannot get up to the light and air. Or, again, the unpruned shoot turns black and begins to die back, and we have to cut it down much further than would have been necessary had we pruned it at the right moment.

In pruning, however, let the amateur remember that until he has gained considerable experience in the matter, it is far safer to prune too lightly than to prune in excess. And I must repeat that no rules will really help us, unless we study the special nature and idiosyncrasy of each individual plant, exactly as we study the character of the child we have to deal with.

With climbing summer-flowering roses very little pruning at all is required, except slightly shortening the ends of the long rambling shoots, cutting out all the dead wood, and cutting some of the old flowering shoots which are worn out, down to the base.

It must be remembered that Ramblers, Noisettes, and other climbing roses bear their flowers on the laterals of the long shoots of the former year. While the Banksias, some of the Multifloras such as Aglaia, and that beautiful rose Fortune's Yellow, only flower on the sub-laterals, i.e. on wood three years old. If therefore these shoots are cut back too hard the plant does not flower.

One of the finest specimens of Crimson Rambler I have ever seen, was ruined for several years by an ignorant person who carefully and triumphantly cut out all the long shoots of the former year, which he considered mere "sucker rods." And then he was surprised at the plant bearing no flowers.

A certain amount of very useful minor pruning can be carried on all through the summer, by cutting out bits of old wood when they have flowered, if we see that they have no young shoots on which to bear a second crop later on. For instance when the newer China roses, such as Laurette Messimy, are in full bloom, we often find a bit of one of last year's growths which has borne one or two of the earliest flowers and now merely blocks up the young tender shoots full of buds. This is the time to cut it out, instead of allowing it to absorb part of the strength which should go to the new wood.

Cutting off dead blooms.—Though to some it may seem a small matter, much good may also be done to our plants through the summer by the way we remove dead flowers. Instead of merely snapping off each blossom between thumb and finger, it is better to do a little very mild pruning, by cutting each dead blossom off just above the second leaf below it. This greatly promotes the autumn blooming of the plants, and keeps them in good shape. It is a little more trouble, but amply repays us in the end.

The precise moment of setting to work must depend to some extent on the weather. Of course we cannot begin in a heavy frost, as that would be fatal to the plants. Nor can I go as far as Mr. Pemberton, who with delightful enthusiasm advises us to choose a cold day with north-east wind and occasional sleet showers. That is too complete a counsel of perfection for most mortals; for however much they love their roses, they equally dread pneumonia for themselves. But certainly a cool, overcast day is best, as there is less chance of the wood bleeding than in mild, soft weather.

Well prepared, therefore, sécateur in hand, and knife in pocket in case of need, with strong gloves and old clothes, and if a woman, with a housemaid's kneeling pad to kneel on so as to get more easily at the dwarf plants—for pruning is tiring work in any case, and it is well to save extra fatigue and backache—we now begin on a late February day, with

Rugosa Roses.—These need little pruning beyond cutting out the dead wood, and cutting back some of the old wood almost to the base, when it will throw up fresh shoots which will bloom late. The suckers which these roses throw up in numbers, may be cut back to three or four feet to form a thick bush.

Ayrshires and Sempervirens.—Thin out slightly and cut out dead wood—no further pruning is needed.

Boursaults need no thinning. The flowers are borne on the laterals of last year's long shoots, which may be left six to ten feet long.

The Species and most of their hybrids need no pruning beyond cutting out dead wood, and occasionally cutting the young base shoots back to hard, well-ripened wood, when the tips are touched by frost.

Provence and Moss Roses.—Cut out old wood; thin out old shoots, and out back the young base shoots and laterals to four or six eyes. Some of the strong-growing moss roses may be left taller. The Perpetual Moss roses are pruned as hybrid perpetuals for garden decoration.

Miniature Provence.—Keep well pruned to within six inches of the ground, and thin out the centre.

Gallica and Damask.—Prune lightly. The strong growers may be kept as tall bushes or pillars. The dwarf, such as Red Damask, and Rosa Mundi cut back to three feet. Keep the best one- and two-year-old shoots and laterals, and thin out old and weak wood.

Alba.—Grow as bushes or pillars five to six feet high, cutting out weak wood, leaving all the laterals on which the flowers are borne, about eight inches to one foot.

Hybrid Chinas, such as Charles Lawson, Coupe d'Hébé and Madame Plantier, should be grown as bushy pillars, leaving the shoots six feet long. Shorten the laterals on old wood to three or four eyes. Blairii No. 2 should hardly be touched.

Sweet Briars.—Cut out all weak wood and cut old and naked shoots down to the ground. The Common Sweet Briar should be grown about four feet high. The Penzance Briars make enormous base shoots, which may be shortened to ten feet or less according to one's requirements, and some of the strong laterals of last year shortened back. Lord and Lady Penzance, from their Austrian briar blood, are much less vigorous, and need far less pruning, only cutting out dead wood. When the Penzance and Common Sweet Briars are grown as hedges, the base is apt to get bare, and some of the long shoots must be laid down to keep it clothed, while the rest are pruned much shorter.

Hybrid Bourbons.—Prune the laterals lightly, and leave the best of the base shoots.

Hybrid Noisettes and Musks.—Thin out old wood and tie in young shoots.

Austrian Briars.—Only cut out dead wood. Soleil d'Or, a hybrid, flowers on the young wood, and the shoots may be pruned back to two feet.

Scotch Briars.—No pruning is needed, except cutting out old and dead wood and shortening back some of the numerous suckers.

Climbing Multifloras need little pruning. When grown as pillars or on screens they are apt to get bare at the base. Therefore it is well to cut some of the weaker young shoots back to two or three feet to clothe the base, leaving the strong ones their full length. With Crimson Rambler and its class, cut out some of the old wood to make room for the young shoots and shorten any weak laterals: but leave most of the strong ones intact, and do not touch the long base shoots of the last year.

Wichuraianas.—Only cut out old and dead wood. I have seen a beautiful effect produced with Dorothy Perkins by cutting out all the old wood in the autumn, and training the long young shoots over wire frames two-and-a-half feet wide, forming low arches about a yard from the ground in the centre. The mass of flower shoots standing erect on these frames makes a most strikingly beautiful object. The Wichuraianas also form very lovely weeping standards on eight-feet stems. And for tall pillars and fountain roses they are unequalled.

Chinas.—The old Blush and Cramoisie Supérieure should only be thinned. The newer kinds, such as Mme. Eugène Resal, Laurette Messimy, etc., may be cut back to a few eyes from the ground.

Bourbons.—Prune lightly, growing as bold bushes or standards; except Hermosa, which may be pruned back to form a dwarf, spreading, two-feet bush; while Mrs. Bosanquet is treated like the Chinas.

Noisettes are of two types. The strong growers need hardly any pruning, except Maréchal Niel, which must have all cankered and weak shoots removed after it has flowered. Lamarque, Fortune's Yellow (which must not be pruned at all), and Jaune Desprez need a wall; and Céline Forestier prefers one.

The other type, such as L'Idéal and William Allen Richardson, may be pruned fairly close, by cutting back the laterals to a few eyes. All Noisettes bear their flowers on the laterals; therefore these should be preserved as much as possible.

Dijon Teas.—These are the climbing and vigorous Gloire de Dijon and its descendants and allies, such as Belle Lyonnaise, François Crousse, Duchesse d'Auerstadt, Mme. Bérard, etc. They are all apt to get bare below. Therefore, while some of the strong shoots from the base are left almost their full length, others must be cut back, some to two or three feet, others to four or five feet, in order to keep the whole surface of the wall, arch, or pillar clothed evenly. The laterals may be pruned on the same plan. Old worn out wood should be occasionally cut down to the base to make it start afresh, when the first flowering is over.

Banksia Roses.—These need no pruning except in the case of a very old plant, when a shoot that shows weakness may be cut down to the base in April. But I have pointed out in Chapter IV that the Banksias bear their flowers on the sub-laterals of the third year. Therefore, for three years they must not be touched with the knife, and the shoots merely tied in evenly over the surface of the wall.

Dwarf Polyanthas.—These only need to have the old flower stems cut out in March.

Hybrid Perpetuals and Hybrid Teas, dwarf and standard.—If pruned for garden purposes or what I call enjoyment, not for exhibition, all dead wood and weak or unripe shoots must be cut out to the base of the plant. The centre of the plant must be kept clear by removing shoots which cross each other. The strong ripe shoots from the base should be cut back to about twelve inches, and the laterals on the old wood cut back to about four to six eyes. This is merely a general guide to the pruning of these two kinds of roses. But the rosarian, as I have said, will have to study the peculiarities of each individual plant, and to adapt these instructions to its needs, leaving more shoots on the stronger roses, and keeping them longer than on the weak-growing varieties.

Teas and Noisettes, both dwarf and standard, are pruned on exactly the same lines as the Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals, but must be pruned in April instead of March.