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RAW TUNA WITH CITRUS DRESSING

Serves six.

2 oranges

1 Seville orange

1 lemon

a pinch of chilli flakes

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

75ml (2½fl oz) olive oil

400–500g (14oz–1lb 2oz)

sashimi-quality raw tuna

sea salt and black pepper

A variety of citrus fruit can be used, including limes and

grapefruit, just so long as a good balance of sweet and sour

is achieved.

Cut across the tops and bases of the fruit, place them on a

board and cut away the skin and pith as though removing

the staves of a barrel. Remove the segments of the fruit

from between the pithy walls and pick out any pips.

Season with the chilli flakes, plenty of sea salt and freshly

ground black pepper and whisk vigorously to break up

the fruit before adding the balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

Cut the tuna into thin (penny-thick) slices and place

them on very cold plates. Spoon over the dressing and

serve immediately.

VARIATION: GINGER DRESSING

1 tablespoon finely chopped

garlic

2 tablespoons finely chopped

root ginger

3 tablespoons finely chopped

shallots

50ml (13⁄4fl oz) lemon juice

150ml (5fl oz) Japanese soy

sauce

200ml (7fl oz) sunflower oil

finely chopped chives, for

sprinkling

I use this dressing throughout the year: it has always been

very popular.

Chop the garlic, ginger and shallots very finely with a

knife, not in a food processor. Mix with the liquids but

don’t try to emulsify them. Lay slices of fish on very cold

plates and spoon the dressing around. Sprinkle finely

chopped chives on the dressing and serve with

pumpernickel or rye bread.

WINE: Citrus and oily tuna marry very well, but pose

a problem for wine. The best choice might be a Spatlese

Riesling whose residual sugar will offset the

sour citrus. The ginger version is less problematic and a

fresh Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc will both work well.

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