Читать книгу Whisky Made Me Do It: 60 wonderful whisky and bourbon cocktails - Ruby Taylor - Страница 6
Оглавление‘I like whisky and bourbon and Scotch.’
I can’t tell you how often I hear that statement, but in reality, bourbon and Scotch are both types of whisky. Just as the word ‘beer’ is a broad-based word – including ales and lagers – whisky is a catch-all for spirits made from cereal grains that have (usually) been matured in a wooden container.
The world of whisky can be a little confusing, but this book should help you to understand its many forms and production methods. A good place to start is to imagine whisky as beer that has made a leap for immortality. Grain, water and yeast are the backbones of both beer and whisky, the difference being that beer uses hops, while whisky is distilled to concentrate the flavours and alcohol.
Whisky has a long history, particularly in Scotland and Ireland, its veritable homes. So, which country invented whisky? It’s an argument that you’ll hear in bars around the world, but the best advice is to credit the Irish when in Ireland and the Scots when in Scotland. While distillation is much older than whisky, distilling technology reached both Scotland and Ireland around the 15th century. The first distilling would have been done by monks, who, having tasted distilled spirits, or aquae vitae (Latin for ‘water of life’), in Europe, would have filled their stills with beer brewed at the monasteries to produce the first iterations of whisky. These efforts were called uscae beatha (pronounced ‘OO-SKAY BAY-Tha’) in Gaelic, meaning water of life. The whiskies produced then would have been unrecognisable to modern consumers; they would have been harsh and unaged, for drinking in the near future rather than allowed to quietly age. Uscae beatha slowly became usquebaugh in the 1600s, before being shortened to usque, which has a pronunciation similar to our modern ‘whisky’.
A quick aside on whiskey or whisky – the correct spelling depends (usually) on the country in which it is made. The Scots spell it whisky, and the Canadians and Japanese follow that custom. The Irish use the ‘ey’ spelling, as does the United States, but exceptions exist, such as the Tennessee Whiskey, George Dickel whisky – spelled the Scottish way, as Mr Dickel was convinced his whisky was as good as anything produced in Scotland. You’ll find both spellings in this book, to respect the naming traditions of each whisk(e)y-producing country.
Tasting and nosing spirits is a challenge for most people. Of course, there are times when one can simply enjoy a whisky without doing an organoleptic analysis of the spirit (yes, nosing and tasting has a proper name – you can win bar bets with this knowledge).
Pour yourself a small dram of whisky (there is specialised glassware such as the Glencairn glass that is great for making the aromas and flavours more apparent, or just use a wine glass or Cognac snifter). Note its colour – it can be a clue as to what kind of barrel it was matured in – a red tint can indicate a Scotch whisky matured in a sherry butt, while a more golden colour is often indicative of an ex-bourbon barrel. Slowly tilt the glass and run the liquid along the inside, watching how it moves. If the spirit appears to cling and looks a bit viscous, the remnants that slowly move back down (called the ‘legs’) indicate an older whisky, whereas young whiskies will run right back down the glass. Keeping your nose above the glass (a couple of centimetres above the rim), inhale through your nostrils and breathe out through your open mouth. This is where the first aromas and clues about the whisky present themselves – the influence of the cereal grains, the type of wood and the environment in which it was matured. If you detect aromas of burnt plastic or cat piss (a real defect in poorly distilled whisky), brace your palate for the assault to come. Feel free to download a whisky aroma wheel from the internet to help you identify flavour notes.
Next is the first sip. This isn’t a real sip, this is a small amount taken into the mouth so as not to shock the palate with a big hit of alcohol. Slowly move this around, through your teeth and gums and over your tongue, to get your palate ready for the second sip. Think about the flavours this sip presents when it hits your tongue. Often the entry, as we call it, is more fruit forward, followed by cereal grains, before wood notes start to show up. Each whisky is unique, so let it reveal itself to you on its terms, not yours. The best part of tasting whisky comes at the finish. In order to experience this, you must swallow the whisky. After swallowing, breathe out and note the various flavours and how long these sit on your palate. Some whiskies have very quick and light finishes, whereas others can linger pleasantly on the tongue, revealing more layers and complexity even after they are long gone.
Cereal grains are used to make whisky. These make up the primary source of flavour before maturation. Some whiskies, like single malt Scotch whisky, are made from 100% of a single grain – in this case, barley – while others, like bourbon, use a mash bill (a blend of grains). A bourbon mash bill has to be 51% corn by law, with other grains, notably malted barley (barley that has been allowed to just germinate before being stopped immediately to take advantage of the extra sugars present), rye and wheat. Even some less-common grains, such as millet or rice, can be distilled into whisky. The bottom line is all whisky is made from cereal grains, and how they are used (malted versus unmalted, and a single variety versus a blend of multiple grains) affects the flavours in the finished product.
Yeast is a very important part of every whisky and a number of major distillers have a proprietary yeast that they use exclusively. (They often keep freeze-dried samples offsite in multiple locations in case a disaster affects the distillery.) Other producers purchase freeze-dried yeasts and some distillers are experimenting with a variety of unusual yeasts such as Belgian Ale yeast. Yeast is used in one of the first steps of whisky production, as the grain and warm water and yeast are combined to begin fermenting, when the yeast turns the sugars in the cereal grains into alcohol.
Water is also a very important part of whisky production and almost every great distillery is located on or near a pristine water source – a spring, a lake or a river. The great bourbon whiskey producers are renowned for the quality of the limestone water that trickles up through springs in Kentucky. In Japan, the Ministry of Environment has designated the water sources for Suntory Whisky’s brand as being among the ‘most precious’ in the country. The distilleries in Scotland, Ireland and Canada are no different. The unique pH for each water source brings out certain flavour profiles in each whisky.
Maturation occurs primarily through oak barrels, but the size of the barrel, whether it is new oak or has been used before, what kind of oak and how long it is used for aging all affect the final flavours of a whisky. Some distillers use more unusual techniques for maturation, from sending their barrels to sea on ships, to playing music to it as it rests, but it’s the magic that happens in the barrel that allows the whisky to mature. Many attempts have been made to speed up the maturation process, including using high pressure, ultrasound or other techniques to fake the effects of barrel aging. None have successfully replicated the correct flavour profile.
Climate plays a major role in whisky maturation. In hot Kentucky, where new oak barrels are stored in tin-sided ‘rick houses’, the heat creates an angel’s share (evaporation of liquid in the barrel) that can reach 10% in year one as the liquid seeps into the porous wood staves, and can average 4% per year for the remainder of its maturation. In contrast, Scotland, which experiences a much lower average summer temperature, allows distillers to write off 2% per year to the angel’s share. Other factors are affected by the climate; in an environment with warm temperatures and high humidity, more alcohol will evaporate out of the barrel than water, lowering the abv as it matures, while in a lower-humidity environment water evaporates, which raises the abv.
The kind of still used and how many times a product is distilled affect the final whiskies. There are essentially two types of still:
The pot still is the older, less-efficient method of distillation. Modern pot stills are steam heated or occasionally heated by fire. The shape of the still is a good indicator of the type of whisky it is producing – a short, round still with a short neck will produce a fatter, more full-flavoured whisky, while a taller, thinner still with a long neck produces a milder, gentler whisky. A pot still works in batches, and one distillation can achieve an abv maximum of 40–80%. Pot-still whiskies are generally distilled twice, and sometimes three times. A mixture called ‘distiller’s beer’ or ‘wash’ is put into the still, which is a cloudy liquid that remains after fermentation. The first distillation yields what are known as low wines, usually around 20% abv. The resulting liquid is then put into a second pot still (or the first still is reused), and second distillation with heads and tails cut (known as feints and fore shots) has to be made to ensure that only the heart of the run is captured. Any liquid left behind in the still (sometimes called pot ale) is discarded or turned into animal feed.
The column still, also known as the continuous still or Coffey still, consists of two columns that continuously distill the spirit. The first column has the wash pumped in from the top while steam comes up from below. A series of either bubble plate or a packing material inside helps the fractional distillation. The second still, the rectifier, condenses the alcohol vapours into liquid form. A column still is much more efficient, being able to distill to a 96% abv, or as close as can be achieved without the use of chemicals or specialised lab equipment. While this still can be run constantly, and extract a purer base alcohol, it does mean less flavour comes through.
STYLES OF WHISKY
As France is to wine, Scotland is to whisky. No true connoisseur can ignore the variety and depth of the whisky produced there. Scotch whisky comes in five different styles but around 90% of all that is produced in Scotland is blended. To be labelled as Scotch whisky, it must be distilled in Scotland from water and malted barley and may include other cereal grains. It can be distilled to no more than 94.8% abv. The whisky must be matured for a minimum of three years in oak casks not larger than 700 litres, then bottled at a minimum alcoholic strength of 40% abv. Scotch whisky allows the addition of caramel colouring for colour correcting.
This is a good moment for a note on barrels. The majority of casks used for maturation of Scotch whisky (about 97% of Scotch maturing at any time) are ex-bourbon barrels made from American oak (Quercus alba). By American law, bourbon barrels can only be used once, so the majority are broken down and the staves shipped to Scotland. The staves are then rebuilt into barrels, with new ends added, and the staves are re-charred to release more wood sugars. This can be done many times during the useful life of a barrel (30-plus years), but the first time it is used to hold Scotch whisky is referred to as a First Fill Barrel (the most esteemed by whisky enthusiasts). This has the greatest bourbon influence, which depletes as the barrel is reused. Sherry butts represent the majority of the other casks used to mature Scotch whisky and are much larger, at 600 litres. Other barrels are often used to ‘finish’ a whisky for 30–90 days at the end of its maturation, when the whisky is transferred to a new barrel for a short time to pick up some of its characteristics. This will be labelled ‘Rum Cask Finished’ or ‘Gaja Barolo Barrel Finished’.
Peat is one of the most divisive flavour compounds in Scotch whisky. Many people adore it for the smoke and phenol compounds with which it can imbue malted barley, but some find it an acquired taste. I come down firmly in the ‘adore’ category. So why is peat in whisky? Simply put, peat is an accumulation of decayed vegetation that forms in bogs. In older times, malted barley would have dried on screens set over burning peat, for the smoke to add its distinctive flavour. Peat is also close to the concept of terroir (flavours that reflect the unique environment of each wine), because various areas have different types of peat based on what grew there thousands of years ago.
BLENDED SCOTCH WHISKY makes up the large majority of Scotch whisky sold worldwide. This style was created when whisky merchants and grocers in the 19th century realised that by mixing single malts, which were rougher and more inconsistent, with relatively new grain whiskies (made from corn or wheat) produced on column stills, they could create a consistent house style that was generally lighter and sweeter, and more marketable to a broader range of consumers. Today, Master Blenders still strive to recreate the same flavour profile of a particular whisky year in and year out. If an age statement is listed on the label of a blended Scotch whisky, it must reflect the age of the youngest whisky in it. The average ratio of grain whisky to single malts runs from 60–85% grain whisky to 15–40% single malts.
SINGLE MALT SCOTCH WHISKY is the second-largest category of Scotch sold worldwide. A single malt must be made from malted barley and distilled in a pot still, usually twice. It has to be made at a single distillery, where it is blended to create a harmonious whole to reflect that distillery’s style. There are five official regions for single malt whisky in Scotland, although a sixth, the ‘Islands’, is unofficially argued by many whisky enthusiasts:
The Lowlands – The whiskies produced in the southernmost area of Scotland are gentle and sweet. Some have been affectionately referred to as ‘breakfast whisky’ because of the regional tradition of triple distilling, which results in a lighter style.
The Highlands – Physically the largest whisky-producing region in Scotland, its size allows for a variety of styles, from peaty and large to light and floral.
Speyside – This area features the most densely concentrated number of distilleries within its small borders. With production centred on eight locations – Strathisla, Livet, Findhorn, Rothes, Dufftown, Deveron, Lossie and Speyside Central – the whiskies are generally light and fruity with some grassy characteristics, with a greater influence of sherry casks than in other regions.
Campbelltown – This is the only town to be its own whisky region. At its peak, the area featured 30-plus distilleries, all producing powerful whiskies known for their smoke and salinity balanced by fruit and chocolate notes. Now only three remain.
Islay (pronounced EYE-luh) – The southernmost island in the Inner Hebrides is home to eight distilleries that produce some of Scotland’s most iconic whiskies. As a general rule, these are big, peaty, smoky drams, with sea spray and an underlying sweetness. Geographically, the distilleries on the northern part of the island produce less peaty malts without the salinity of their southern counterparts.
The Islands – Included within the Highlands and not yet recognised as a separate region, the Islands deserve their own category, as their whiskies are unique – ranging from big, briny and peaty to soft and floral, all with their own characters influenced by their location.
BLENDED MALT SCOTCH WHISKY is a newer style, which was known as vatted malt prior to 2009. Essentially a blend of only single malts (no grain whisky), these aren’t common but many are excellent.
SINGLE GRAIN SCOTCH WHISKY is made from either corn or wheat and barley (it must include barley) in a column still in Scotland. These don’t appear on the market very often but many are quite good. The single grain designation refers to one distiller producing it – grain indicates a mix beyond barley has been used.
BLENDED GRAIN SCOTCH WHISKY is similar to single grain Scotch whisky, except that it contains whiskies from at least two different distilleries blended together.
IRISH WHISKEY is experiencing a Renaissance not seen since the early 20th century, with 18 distilleries now operating in Ireland, and at least a dozen more in the planning. Irish whiskey is the only country-specific whiskey that is actually made in two countries within one island – the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland (part of the United Kingdom). Irish whiskey is made from malted barley (other cereal grains can be added), must be distilled to no more than 94.8% abv, be aged in oak casks not larger than 700 litres for a minimum of three years and be matured in Ireland and bottled at not less than 40% abv. It is usually triple-distilled, which results in a light, fruity and sweet style. The use of peat in Ireland is rare, although these whiskies do exist. Like Scotch whisky, the age stated on the label must indicate the youngest age of the whiskes included. The majority of barrels used for maturation are ex-bourbon barrels, with sherry butts and wine casks sometimes used. Irish whiskey allows for the use of caramel colouring for colour correction.
There are four types of Irish whiskey:
Irish Malt Whiskey – This is made using 100% malted barley and triple-distilled in pot stills. An Irish malt whiskey from one distillery can be labelled as an Irish single malt.
Irish Pot Still Whiskey – This is a blend of malted and unmalted (also known as green) barley. A minimum of 30% of each type of barley must be used and up to 5% of other cereal grains. Traditionally triple-distilled, this used to be the most popular style of whiskey in the world during the 19th century. If distilled at one distiller, the term single Irish pot still whiskey can be used.
Irish Grain Whiskey – This is made with no more than 30% malted barley, along with other unmalted cereals such as barley, corn or wheat, and distilled in column stills. Those produced at one distillery can be labelled single grain whiskey.
Irish Blended Whiskey – These make up the vast majority of Irish whiskies sold. Confusingly, any combination of two or more styles of malt, pot still and grain whiskies qualifies as an Irish blended whiskey, but the majority feature a dominant combination of grain and pot still whiskies.
JAPANESE WHISKY traces its roots back to 1870 but really began in its modern form in the 1920s. It is said to model itself on Scotch whisky, although some rice whiskies are produced too. In Japan, if a distillery wants to produce a blend, they make many different styles in-house or under the umbrella of a company, usually grain whiskies from column stills and pot still-based single malts, then blend these disparate whiskies into a house style. Japanese single malt whiskies are 100% malted barley (often imported from Scotland) and double-distilled in pot stills. Occasionally, Japanese oak barrels (called mizunara oak) are used, but they are very expensive and tend to leak; however, they do add a complex cedar spice component.
CANADIAN WHISKY can be made from any cereal grain or grain products (wheat, rye and corn being the most common) and are aged in ‘small wood’ of not more than 700-litre casks for a minimum of three years. The product must be distilled and matured in Canada and not bottled at less than 40% abv. Many styles of Canadian whisky allow caramel colouring for colour correcting, but they also allow up to 9.09% of flavouring to be added as long as it is a spirit aged at least 24 months or a wine. Generally, Canadian whiskies are a blend of base whiskies produced in column stills to a high proof then matured in used barrels, blended with flavouring whiskies. They are generally distilled to a lower abv on column stills, then possibly in a pot still, before being matured in ex-bourbon, ex-rye or virgin-wood barrels. Both styles are generally distilled and matured from one grain at a time, then blended to create a house style. Barrels may be new or used, charred or uncharred. Canadian whisky is often referred to as ‘rye’ because it traditionally contains rye in the blend (dating back to German and Dutch immigrants adding rye to the wheat mash), but wheat is most widely used. Now Canada is home to eight major distilleries and a number of small micro-distilleries.
