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TEQUILA

Tequila: the universal word for Mexico. Say ‘Mexico’ anywhere in the world, and the immediate response is almost certain to be: ‘TEQUILA!’ Tequila, as the title of this book suggests, has made us dance till the break of dawn, given us the courage to finally go up to that person at the bar or simply let go of the worries of the world. Recognised worldwide as Mexico’s national drink, tequila is synonymous with celebration, Mexican pride and romance. But what exactly is tequila, and why can’t we get enough of it?

The original term for the spirit now known as tequila was Vino de Mezcal de Tequila. Long before the declaration of any PDO, the New Spain recognised any agave spirit as a Vino de Mezcal; ‘de Tequila’ referred to its region. In this case, the village of Jalisco has become known as the birthplace of this popular spirit. It wasn’t until 1887 that the term Vino de Mezcal was dropped, and ‘tequila’ became recognised around the world.

Tequila is the product made from the fermentation and distillation of cooked agave juices. In this case, the Agave tequilana Weber – a blue agave varietal that grows in arid and semi-arid regions of Mexico. As one of Mexico’s most recognisable PDOs, it can only be produced within the states of Jalisco, Guanajuato, Nayarit, Michoacan and Tamaulipas over nearly 120,000 acres. Each plant takes eight to ten years to mature to be harvested. Enter the jimador, who skillfully slashes all the leaves from the agave, leaving only the piña, or heart.

Today’s production process is essentially the same as in the 15th century, with a few technological advances. The agaves were cut into two to four pieces and placed in an extensive stone-lined hole/oven in the ground, with wood at the bottom. The oven remained covered with dirt until the agaves were fully roasted, a process that could take 24 to 72 hours. Once cooked, the juices were extracted in a tahona: a circular track where a large round stone would turn several times over the agaves, pulled by a mule, crushing and separating the sweet juice and fibres, or must. The juices were then carried by buckets into fermenting tanks (often made of wood, clay or leather hide). The musts were agitated and left to ferment naturally (using wild yeasts) over the course of 12 to 18 days.

Once fermentation was completed, the liquid was placed in copper pots or alembic stills. The fermented liquid was boiled to separate water from the alcohol through evaporation, to be condensed in an iron cauldron with cold water. The alcohol was again distilled to reach the desired proof and to separate the heads and tail – undesirable byproducts of distillation. The alcohol obtained in the middle of the process was the desired quality, known as the tequila real.

Changes to production have been minimal. Instead of underground ovens, brick ovens or steel autoclaves are used. The use of mechanical crushers has also reduced time and increased juice extraction. Including non-agave sugars and controlled yeasts has accelerated fermentation. Stainless steel has replaced traditional wooden tanks, and steel stills for copper pot stills.

THE RISE OF TEQUILA

After the 7th-century invasion of the Iberian Peninsula by Muslim forces, distillation knowledge was adopted by the Spaniards, who brought it to the New World. There, they encountered an indigenous population that enjoyed the inebriating effect of sweet fermented agave juice. Once the conquerors ran out of their high-proof brandy, they shared their distillation techniques with local tribes, to transform the local fermented drink into a spirit known as mexicali (meaning ‘cooked agave’).

While initially, tequila was produced for consumption only, the hacendados could see commercial potential. It wasn’t long before the popularity of Vino de Mezcal began to pose an economic threat to Spanish alcohol, and authorities of New Spain banned agave spirits. In 1785, the first formal prohibition took place, in the form of a Royal Order. This led to clandestine production and an underground market. However, controlling the distilleries became a costly task, and in 1795 the Spanish King gave consent to Juan Antonio Cuervo to produce tequila.

Over the years, Mexico rode out tumultuous times, and tequila’s popularity reflected the contemporary situation. The Europeanisation of Mexico in the late 19th century once again favoured European spirits, diminishing the tequila industry. However, years after the Mexican Revolution, local and global affairs led to the resurgence of tequila.

The prohibition of alcohol in the United States from 1920 to 1933 opened the gates for tequila to enter American hearts, crossing the Bravo River illegally and satisfying thirsty palates in speakeasies across the country. Back in Mexico, the Golden Age of Mexican cinema in the 1930s gave rise to the stereotype of the Mexican man – a tequila-drinking, cattle-ranching, mariachi-singing womaniser – and tequila was once again a national symbol.

TYPES OF TEQUILA

The rise of tequila’s popularity and its distinct flavour allowed opportunists outside of Mexico to try and cash in on tequila’s success by mimicking spirits and trying to pass them off as original tequilas. In 1973, some of the main Tequileros began lobbying for the declaration of a protected designation of origin, to cover the states of Jalisco and Nayarit. On 22 November 1974, with the addition of the states of Tamaulipas, Michoacan and Guanajuato, the Ministry of Industry and Commerce declared the Protected Designation of Origin ‘Tequila’.

TEQUILA BREAKDOWN

Tequila is classified into two categories depending on the quantity of agave sugars and other sugars added during fermentation. After the tequila is distilled, it is sold in four main presentations, depending on the amount of time aged in oak barrels.

100% Agave - As the classification suggests, this is the spirit obtained from only the sugars of Agave tequilana Weber or blue agave, cultivated in the territory included in the Declaration of the PDO.

Mixto - Spirit obtained from musts that have been enriched or mixed with sugars other than Agave tequilana Weber, in a percentage no greater than 49%.

Blanco/Plata (Silver) - Unaged tequila.

Joven/Oro (Gold) - A blend of blanco tequila with reposado, añejo or extra añejo.

Reposado - Tequila aged in oak barrels for less than two months. A blend between reposado and añejo or extra añejo tequilas can also be considered reposado.

Añejo - Tequila aged in oak barrels for a minimum of one year. A blend of añejo and extra añejo tequilas.

Extra Añejo - Tequila aged in oak barrels for a minimum of three years.