Читать книгу The Mountains of Montenegro - Rudolf Abraham - Страница 11
ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
The small town of Virpazar, gateway to Lake Skadar National Park (Route 5)
Few parts of Europe are so little known as the countries lying between the Danube and the northern frontier of Greece.
Sir J Gardner Wilkinson, Dalmatia and Montenegro (London, 1848)
‘Ljepši od Alpa’ – ‘more beautiful than the Alps’. This description of Montenegro’s mountains was given to me by a Croatian climber, in the most congenial setting of a wedding, just over the Slovenian border. And it was these words, together with a postcard of improbably sheer-sided peaks in Durmitor, the country’s best-known mountain area, which first drew me to Montenegro, while living in Zagreb between 1999 and 2001.
Montenegro (or more correctly Crna gora, ‘black mountain’) lies on the southern Adriatic coast, sandwiched between Croatia, Bosnia-Hercegovina, Serbia and Albania; and within its borders are some of the wildest, most spectacular, and least visited mountains in Europe.
So I wrote in the introduction to the first edition of this guide, back in 2006. And remarkably, with the exception of Durmitor National Park which in recent years has seen a healthy surge in visitor numbers, the last part of that sentence remains just as true now, as I write material for a new edition in 2014, as it did then. It’s true that Montenegro’s popularity as a travel destination has grown enormously over the past few years – new guidebooks have appeared, low-cost direct flights to Podgorica have been launched from the UK, luxurious new hotels and marinas have sprung up. However, while Budva, Kotor, Sv Stefan and other hotspots on the coast heave with sun-seekers and receive a regular stream of cruise ships, much of the rest of the country – and in particular its mountains – remains little known.
Most of the surface area of the country is taken up by the Dinaric Alps – a great string of mountains, extending in furrowed ranges from Slovenia and Croatia in the north, and reaching their greatest altitude in inland Montenegro, Albania and Macedonia. Rising in some places almost sheer from the Adriatic, these mountains throw themselves up in soaring, jagged limestone tops, and have alternately been compared to strings of pearls, and to the entrance to hell itself. The fierce, rugged character of the Montenegrin highlands is reflected in the name of the mountains running along the northern part of the Albanian border: Prokletije, meaning ‘the accursed mountains’. Yet the landscape is also rich in wildlife and plants, from the diverse birdlife of Skadarso jezero to the primeval forest of Biogradska gora.
The mountains of Montenegro are at their most impressive in the inland areas of Durmitor and Prokletije, where the stunning terrain typically consists of glacial cirques surrounded by fine ridges – often wonderfully exposed – and steep-sided 2000–2500m peaks, some of which require a degree of scrambling to ascend. High pastures, often scattered with stone or wooden shepherd’s huts (known locally as katun), give way to valleys, the lower slopes of which are cloaked in dense pine and beech forest, and picturesque lakes. Between these mountain areas, the landscape is slashed by deep canyons – one of which, the Tara, is the second deepest in the world.
Like the mountains of neighbouring Croatia, Slovenia and other countries of the former Yugoslavia, the mountains of Montenegro are criss-crossed by well-established, clearly marked trails. There are some mountain huts and shelters, although considerably fewer than in Croatia or Slovenia (many of the walks in this guide require carrying a tent), and detailed maps are available for many of the most popular hiking areas.
Montenegro is easily reached from the UK – either a direct flight to Podgorica, or via Dubrovnik – and costs within the country are relatively low. Added to these already considerable attractions are the country’s many other, perhaps better-known assets – a beautiful coastline, fascinating history and some impressive architecture. The proximity of Croatia and its own lovely coast and mountains might be added as a further lure…
It is hoped that this guidebook – at the time of writing the second edition, still the only comprehensive English-language guide available to the mountains of Montenegro – will enable more people to visit this remarkable area, and shed some light on what is, quite simply, one of the finest walking destinations in Europe.
MONTENEGRO – KEY FACTS AND FIGURES
Country name: Crna gora
Capital: Podgorica
Language: Serbian
Currency: Euro
Population: 625,266 (2011 census)
Surface area: 14,026km
Time zone: GMT + 1hr
National Day: 13 July
Geography
The general aspect of Montenegro is that of a succession of elevated ridges, diversified here and there by a lofty mountain peak, and, in some parts, looking like a sea of immense waves turned into stone.
Sir J Gardner Wilkinson, Dalmatia and Montenegro (London, 1848)
The mountainous character of the Balkan peninsula is reflected in its name. A Turkish word meaning a chain of mountains, balkan was initially used to describe the Stara Planina range in modern Bulgaria. Later, and particularly from the 19th century, it came to be used to describe the whole region – with distinctly negative connotations.
One of the most extensive mountain ranges in the Balkan peninsula is the Dinaric Alps. Stretching southeastwards some 700km from the Slovenian border, the Dinaric Alps run the length of Croatia, through Montenegro and into Albania, from where they continue as the Pindos Mountains into Greece. Their steep western slopes present an almost impenetrable barrier towards the Adriatic (a factor which has contributed to the relative isolation of inland Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia from the various ‘Mediterranean’ civilizations to have settled along the coast). Perhaps not surprisingly, their inhabitants have always been fiercely independent. With the exception of a narrow strip of coastline, almost the entire territory of Montenegro is occupied by these mountains.
Mokro, on the approach to Kučka krajina from Veruša (Route 12)
Montenegro’s rocky Adriatic coastline runs northwest-southeast between Croatia and Albania, broken towards its northwestern end by Boka Kotorska (the Bay of Kotor), a deeply indented, fjord-like inlet surrounded by steep, bare mountains. The coast is divided from the interior by a steep, outer rampart of mountains, including Orjen (Routes 1–2), on the border with Bosnia-Hercegovina and Croatia; Lovćen (Routes 3–4), above Boka Kotorska, and crowned by the mausoleum of Montenegro’s celebrated ruler-poet, Petar II Petrović Njegoš; and Rumija (Route 5), between Lake Skadar and Stari Bar. These mountains are relatively modest in elevation, with peaks averaging 1600–1700m; the highest point is Zubački kabao (1894m), on Orjen. Karst features are especially prominent on Orjen, which has relatively little vegetation; forest cover is somewhat more extensive on Lovćen. In both cases, surface water is minimal.
Behind these mountains a broad plateau runs inland for some distance – an area described by J.A Cuddon in The Companion Guide to Jugoslavia as a succession of ‘troughs and crests of turmoiled rock’. There is a saying among Montenegrins, that when God was in the act of distributing stones over the earth, the bag that held them burst, and they all fell on Montenegro. It seems particularly appropriate for this area. Within the southeast part of this plateau lies the Montenegrin capital, Podgorica (meaning literally ‘beneath the mountain’). To the southeast of this is the basin of Skadarsko jezero (Route 5; Lake Shkodër in Albanian), which, which an average area of 475km2, is the largest lake in the Balkans. Beyond this area and further inland lie the country’s most elevated mountain areas.
In the northwest of the country, just across the border from Bosnia’s Sutjeska National Park, are the remote areas of Maglić and Bioč, crowned by Maglić (2386m) and Veliki Vitao (2397m) respectively (the former lies actually on the Bosnian border).
Slightly to the southeast of these, bounded to the north by the River Tara and to the west by the River Piva, is Durmitor (Routes 6–8). This is Montenegro’s best-known and most visited mountain area, with numerous peaks over 2300m, including Bobotov kuk (2523m), usually described as the country’s highest but actually overshadowed just a little by a peak on the Albanian border. It is an area of quite exceptionally beautiful scenery, with glacial cirques and lakes, high ridges and spectacular, steep-sided peaks.
Stretching southeast from Durmitor parallel to the River Tara is Sinjajevina, a long, jagged succession of high peaks, including Jablanov vrh (2203m) at its southern end. South of this, along the headwaters and west of the River Moračka, are the equally rugged Moračke planine, including Torna (also known as Babji zub, 2227m). These mountains gradually recede in altitude towards Nikšić and Podgorica, and towards the River Zeta. Southeast of Sinjajevina, across the River Tara, is Bjelasica (Routes 9–10), with its somewhat more gentle, rounded tops.
Limestone pavement (lapiez) on Subra, with waymarking (Route 1)
Further to the southeast lie the high, wild and sometimes quite remote mountain areas along the Albanian border, at the headwaters of the River Tara and the River Lim. Komovi (Route 11), which lies just south of Bjelasica, is a relatively compact area, reaching its highest in Kom Kučki (2487m). South of Komovi and slightly lower in altitude is the rugged and very little visited Kučka krajina (Route 12, also called Žijevo). To the east of these, across the northern tip of Albania, lies Prokletije (Routes 14–17), a heavily glaciated area with a steep, Alpine profile, including Maja Kolata (2528m), the highest mountain in Montenegro. (Altitude increases over the Albanian border, where Maja Jezerces reaches 2694m.) Visitor (Route 13) rises above Lake Plav, on the northern edge of Prokletije.
For a list of the principal mountain areas and major peaks in Montenegro, see Appendix A.
Geology
The mountains of Montenegro were formed during the violent geological activity of the late Secondary and early Tertiary eras, and are primarily composed of Jurassic and Triassic limestone. The zone northeast of Pivsko jezero, the upper Morača and the headwaters of the Tara was formed by a large overthrust (or ‘nappe’), and it is this area which contains many of the country’s highest mountains.
Although no glaciers remain today, some areas bear profound traces of glaciation, with numerous glacial cirques, moraines and glacial lakes (18 of the latter in the Durmitor region alone). Furthermore, glaciation in the Prokletije region occurred at a much lower altitude than in the Alps – as low as 1000m. Plavsko jezero (Lake Plav) is the largest glacial lake in the Balkans; and a glacier in the Plav-Gusinje area is estimated to have been some 35km long and up to 200m thick, which would have made it the largest glacier in the region.
The River Tara, between Žabljak and Mojkovac
Some remarkably deep canyons cut across the Montenegrin highlands, most notably the Tara Canyon which reaches a maximum depth of some 1600m – making it not only the deepest canyon in Europe, but also the second deepest in the world after the Grand Canyon in Colorado. Not far behind in depth are the Piva and Morača gorges, at 1200m and 1100m respectively.
Numerous karst features are associated with the Montenegrin landscape. Karst is formed through the gradual dissolution of limestone by rainwater, and a corresponding enlargement of surface drainage holes as water percolates downwards. The resultant landscape is characterized by a distinctive surface texture of vertical fissures (karren), sinkholes, cone-shaped dells and depressions, together with numerous caves and sinkholes, many of which reach considerable lengths or depths. Surface water rapidly disappears underground to flow as subterranean rivers, which often re-emerge as karst springs, either in the foothills of the mountains or as submarine springs. The largest submarine spring on the Adriatic coast, called Sopot, emerges in the Bay of Kotor. Other distinctive features of the karst landscape include polja – large, shallow depressions between ridges, which vary considerably in size, and in karst areas may be the only suitable areas for cultivation.
Climate
I saw and heard how they rent the skies; Squalls of hostile hail poured down, Plundered the earth of her fertility.
Petar II Petrović Njegoš, Gorski Vijenac (‘The Mountain Wreath’, Vienna 1847)
The mountains of inland Montenegro (Durmitor, Prokletije, etc) see moderate summers and long, harsh winters. Daytime temperatures during the summer are high but not unpleasantly so (maximum about 25°C in August), and the nights refreshingly cool (minimum about 10°C in August, although it can sometimes drop considerably lower). During the winter months mountainous areas see freezing temperatures and receive abundant snowfall – as much as 5m on Durmitor. Snow lingers well into the summer months, particularly on northern slopes.
The Montenegrin coast enjoys long, hot summers and short, mild winters. In the Zeta plain, including the basin of Skadarsko jezero, the summer months can be particularly hot, and Podgorica has the unhappy distinction of being the hottest city in Serbia or Montenegro.
Do not be deceived by the barren, desiccated appearance of Montenegro’s coastal mountains – this region of the Dinaric Alps attracts phenomenally heavy rainfall. In fact, Crkvice on Orjen has the highest rainfall in Europe, with an annual average of 4500–5000mm, and over 5300mm has been recorded in a single year. (To put this in perspective, Scotland’s Western Highlands and the western coast of Norway each receive on average only 3000mm per year!) Fortunately, the average annual precipitation in other inland mountain areas is more reasonable (1750mm on Durmitor, for example).
On the coast and in the coastal mountains, rain falls almost entirely during the winter (usually from November). In the mountainous areas further inland, precipitation is somewhat more evenly distributed throughout the year.
When to visit
On balance then, the best time to visit the mountains of Montenegro is June to September. Durmitor, Komovi, Prokletije and the other high, inland mountain areas will all be at their best at this time. Snow patches will linger well into the summer in some areas, particularly on northern slopes, and in some areas you will find snow all year. Wild flowers will be at their most plentiful in June to July. By late summer some of the smaller lakes and tarns will have dried up. Winter brings spectacular snow conditions for those prepared. August is very hot on the coast, and this is not the best time to visit Orjen or Lovćen.
Bobotov kuk from Trojni prevoj (Route 7)
However, like any mountains truly worthy of the long hours you might spend climbing them, those in Montenegro are full of suprises and often enjoy confounding even the most detailed weather forecast. Make sure you bring adequate warm clothing and a waterproof jacket, whatever time of year you choose to visit.
Cloud in the Grbaja Valley
Vegetation and wildlife
The plant-life of the Balkans is richer than any comparable area in Europe.
Oleg Polunin, Flowers of Greece and the Balkans (Oxford, 1980)
Mediterranean and mountain plants
The number of plant species in the Balkan peninsula has been estimated at well over 6500 – a figure that includes numerous endemics and several relicts that have survived from before the last Ice Age.
Along the Montenegrin coast, some typical species include Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis), holm oak (Quercus ilex), funeral cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), wild olive (Olea europaea) and other low shrubs or maquis. On the steep mountain slopes and karst areas above, these rapidly give way to species such as white oak (Quercus pubescens), holly oak (Quercus coccifera), hop-hornbeam (ostrya carpinifolia) and hardy scrub or garrigue. Flowering plants in these areas include thyme (Thymus striatus), common sage (Salvia officinalis) and several species of crocus. Among the endemic species found in such areas are Moltkia petraea, Petteria ramentacea, Globularia cordifolia, Lonicera glutinosa and Tanacetum cinerariifolium or ‘Dalmatian powder’ – better known as pyrethrum.
Inland, the lower reaches of valleys and canyons are characterized by deciduous forest including ash (Fraxinus excelsior) and various species of oak. At higher levels these increasingly give way to beech (Fagus silvatica) and then conifers. Canyons may also contain a number of Tertiary relicts.
The mountain slopes of inland Montenegro are dominated by coniferous, beech or mixed forest. Species include Norwegian spruce (Picea abies), silver fir (Abies alba), Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis), beech (Fagus silvatica), birch (Betula pendula) and maple (Acer heldreichii). Black pine (Pinus nigra), and the massive Munika or Heldreich pine (Pinus heldreichii) and its subspecies the Bosnian pine (Pinus leucodermis), are also found. Rich sub-alpine pastures and grasslands extend above the tree line, as do areas of scrub, sometimes dotted with juniper (including Juniperus communis). Upper mountain slopes are characterized by hardy, low thickets of dwarf mountain pine (Pinus mugo), known locally as planinski bor, above which typically rises an area of bare rock.
The high grasslands are rich in flowers such as milkworts (including Polygala major), flaxes (including Linum capitanum), violets (Viola calcarata) and gentians (including Gentiana acaulis and Gentiana utriculosa), together with saxifrage (Saxifraga adscendens), black vanilla orchid (Nigritella nigra) and various species of sage and thyme. Blueberries grow in profusion during the summer months. In rockier areas and on screes, species include valerian (Valeriana montana), ranunculus (Ranunculus sartorianus), alpine toadflax (Linaria alpine), alpine rock-cress (Arabis alpine) and drypis (Drypis spinosa). Snowbells (Soldanella alpina) and mountain avens (Dryas octopetala) are found among the melting snowfields. Flowers endemic to Montenegro and adjacent areas of the Balkans include Verbascum durmitoreum, Centaurea kotschyana and Pimpinella serbica.
A large stand of black pine, near Mojkovac
Dalmatian pelicans (Pelicanus crispus) in flight. Pančeva oka special reserve, Lake Skadar national park
The Montenegrin mountains are rich in alpine flowers, best seen in June or July
The best months to see the flowers are June and July.
Mammals
The brown bear (Ursus arctos) survives in Montenegro in small numbers (estimated at some 125 individuals in 2000). Not surprisingly, its distribution is limited mostly to the remotest mountain areas of the north and east. Encounters between humans and bears are very rare. The grey wolf (Canis lupus) is also said to inhabit some of the more remote mountain areas, but again, sightings are rare. Since its reappearance in the 1960s–70s, there have been scattered sightings of the Eurasian lynx (Lynx lynx), although it is established in greater numbers over the Albanian border. Unfortunately, the population of this rare mammal appears to be in decline in the Balkans.
Other mammals include wild boar (Sus scrofa), red deer (Cervus elaphus), roe deer (Capreolus capreolus), chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra), pine martin (Martes martes), forest dormouse (Dryomys nitedula) and common dormouse (Glis glis).
Reptiles and amphibians
The nose-horned viper (Vipera ammodytes), known locally as poskok, is found in the Dinaric Alps, including Montenegro. Its venom is highly poisonous (see ‘Safety in the Mountains’, below, for snake-bite treatment). Adult specimens are typically less than 60cm in length, but may sometimes grow to 90cm. A subspecies found in Montenegro (Vipera ammodytes meridionalis) is smaller. Nose-horned vipers are either light grey or brownish copper, with a dark black zigzag pattern along the back, and are recognizable by the prominent soft horn at the end of their snout. They prefer dry, rocky hillsides, but may also be found under low bushes or around dry stone walls, and even on rock faces. The common viper, or adder (Vipera berus), known locally as šarka or šarulja, is also found, together with the subspecies Vipera berus bosniensis. (It is perhaps worth mentioning that both the nose-horned Viper and the common viper also occur in other, more frequently visited parts of Europe. For example, the former is found in northern Italy, while the latter is also found in the UK.) Another species of viper, Orsini’s viper (Vipera ursinii), is considerably more docile. Other species of snake include the large whip snake (Coluber caspius), Balkan whip snake (Coluber gemonensis), Dahl’s whip snake (Coluber najadum) and the cat snake (Telescopus fallax).
A number of lizards are common, including the Balkan green lizard (Lacerta trilineata), which grows up to 40cm in length, green lizard (Lacerta viridis), Mosor rock lizard (Lacerta mosorensis), Balkan wall lizard (Podarcis taurica), Dalmatian algyroides (Algyroides nigrop-unctatus), sharp-snouted rock lizard (Lacerta oxycephala) and Turkish gecko (Hemidactylus turcicus).
The alpine newt (Triturus alpestris) is found in lakes in the Montenegrin highlands, including an endemic subspecies (Triturus alpestris serdarus), the distribution of which is limited to Zminičko jezero, a lake on the northern flanks of Sinjajevina. A subspecies of alpine salamander (Salamandra atra prenjensis) is found along the Albanian border, in Kučka krajina. Other species of amphibian include the brilliantly spotted fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra), Balkan crested newt (Triturus marmoratus) and Balkan stream frog (Rana graeca).
Birds
Skadarsko jezero (Lake Shkodër), with its five ornithological reserves (Manastirska tapija, Grmozur, Omerova gorica, Crni zar and Pančevo oko), is one of the largest and most important ornithological sanctuaries in Europe, and an important stop on winter migration routes. Not surprisingly, it contains the greatest concentration of birdlife in Montenegro – some 270 species, a number of them quite rare. However, recent statistics indicate that the number of birds wintering here has fallen sharply over the past few years – lowering the population from more than 250,000 birds in 1999 to just 35,000 in 2005. It is possible that many are now wintering at salt flats around Ulcinj instead.
Species you may find at Skadarsko jezero or on the coast include the great cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo), pygmy cormorant (Phalacrocorax pymeus), glossy ibis (Plegadis falcinellus), shelduck (Tadorna tadorna) and the rare Dalmatian pelican (Pelecanus crispus).
In the mountains, some of the rare or more unusual species include the black grouse (Tetrao tetrix), cappercaillie (Tetrao urogallus), rock partridge (Alectoris graeca), goshawk (Accipiter gentilis), Lanner falcon (Falco biarmicus), griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus), golden eagle (Aquilla chrysaetos), short-toed eagle (Circaetus gallicus), eagle owl (Bubo bubo), alpine swift (Alpus melba), horned lark (Eremophila alpestris), alpine accentor (Prunella collaris), blue rock thrush (Monticola solitarius), wallcreeper (Tichodroma muraria) and the common crossbill (Loxia curvirostra), known locally as krstokljun. Other more common species include the common buzzard (Buteo buteo), snowfinch (Montifringilla nivalis), rock nuthatch (Sitta neumayer), sombre tit (Parus cinctus) and alpine chough (Pyrrhocorax graculus).
History
The history of Montenegro, like that of much of the rest of the Balkans, is long, complex, and remarkably rich. Unfortunately it is generally understood in the West only through the window of recent local conflict. The section below provides a summary of key periods and events. For further information and a more detailed account of the region’s fascinating history, see Appendix E.
Fortifications above Kotor (Route 4)
There is evidence of human habitation on the Balkan peninsula from as early as 65,000BC, and plenty has been uncovered from the Neolithic period (7000–3000BC). From around 800BC many areas of the eastern Adriatic were inhabited by the Illyrians, tribes of Indo-European origin. During the early sixth century BC the Greeks began establishing settlements and trading posts on the Adriatic coast, and during the fourth century BC the Celts expanded southwards into the region. During the third century BC the Ardiaei, an Illyrian tribe on the southern Adriatic coast, emerged as a major power in the region, first under King Agron and then Queen Teuta. The Ardiaei, and subsequently other Illyrian tribes further north, were attacked and defeated by Rome, leading to the establishment of Roman Illyricum, later divided into Pannonia and Dalmatia. Roman Illyricum was destroyed by the Huns during the fourth century AD.
The Slavs arrived during the sixth century AD, the earliest Slavonic realm on the Adriatic being an area around the Bay of Kotor and Lake Skadar, known as Zeta. Among the Slavic tribes to enter the region were the Serbs, who arrived in the seventh century, settling around the area of inland Montenegro and the modern plain of Kosovo, an area known as Raška. Zeta and subsequently Raška rose to prominence from the ninth century, and during the 12th–14th centuries the medieval Serbian state, under the Nemanja dynasty, attained true artistic and political greatness. This was extinguished by the advance of the Ottoman Turks during the 14th century, who defeated the Serbian, Croatian and Bosnian armies on the plains of Kosovo in 1389.
During the Ottoman conquest of the Balkans Montenegro began to develop its own religious and cultural identity, distinct from that of Serbia, under the Crnojević dynasty, who established a small semi-independent principality in the area inland from the coastal ranges, with its capital at Cetinje. From 1516 its rulers, known as Vladikas, were elected from the monastery at Cetinje. From the end of the 17th century power was passed from uncle to nephew, remaining in the hands of the Petrović dynasty. Montenegrin resistance to Ottoman rule was determined, and Ottoman recognition of Montenegro came in 1789, under the ruler Petar I Petrović Njegoš. Petar II Petrović Njegoš, who came to power in 1830, played an important role in organizing central government; he was also a great poet, whose masterpiece, Gorski Vijenac (‘The Mountain Wreath’), was printed in 1847 Under Prince Nikola Petrović Montenegro increased its territory, these gains being recognized by the Treaty of San Stefano in 1878. Montenegro’s first constitution was introduced in 1905.
At the end of the First World War Montenegro became the only Allied country to lose its independence, becoming instead a part of Serbia – and of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes which was proclaimed in 1918. In 1945, following the end of the Second World War, Montenegro (along with Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia, Slovenia and Macedonia) became part of the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, under Tito. With the collapse of Yugoslavia and the war between Serbia and Croatia in the 1990s, Montenegro sided with Serbia. Following this conflict, and the war in Bosnia, Serbia and Montenegro maintained the name Yugoslavia, but from 2002 this confederation was renamed the State Union of Serbia and Montenegro. In May 2006 Montenegro held a referendum and voted for independence from Serbia. The EU began accession talks with Montenegro in 2012, however such a step as EU membership is likely to be several years away.
Culture
What shows so white on the green mountainside? Is it snow, is it swans on the mountain?
From the ballad The Wife of Asan-aga’ (translated by A Pennington and P Levi)
Montenegro is certainly not short on literary tradition, and one of the earliest printing presses in the Balkans was established at Obod, near Cetinje, in the 1490s, under Ivan Crnojević’s son Ðurađ.
The ballads and epic poems of the Kosovo Cycle constitute one of the great treasures of European folk literature. These first came to the attention of Western Europe when a selection were published in the Italian edition of the Venetian traveller Alberto Fortis’ Travels into Dalmatia (1774), and adaptations were later made by Goethe, Walter Scott, Mérimée and Pushkin. The definitive editions are those by Vuk Karadžić, culminating in his magnum opus, Serbian Folk Poems (4 vols., Vienna, 1841–62). One of the best English translations of the Kosovo Cycle is that by Anne Pennington and Peter Levi, Marko the Prince (London: Duckworth, 1984).
The magnum opus of Petar II Petrović Njegoš, Gorski Vijenac (‘The Mountain Wreath’), written in 1846 and published in Vienna in 1847, remains the Montenegrin national epic.
Some of the more notable buildings and monuments in Montenegro include:
Morača Monastery (Church of Sv. Bogorodica)
About 5km south of the turn-off to Šavnik, on the main road (E-80) between Kolašin and Podgorica. Founded 1251 by Stephen (‘The First Crowned’). The earliest frescoes date from around 1260, and are a fine example of the so-called ‘Raška’ school of the 13th century; they include the Annunciation and scenes from the life of St Elijah (Sv. Ilija). Other frescoes are mostly from the 16th–17th centuries. Among the many fine icons is one of Saints Symeon and Sava, with scenes from the life of Sv. Sava.
Ostrog Monastery
On a small side-road about 37 km north of Podgorica, off the main road (E-762) to Nikšić. Built during the 17th century, nestled in a spectacular position at the base of a cliff. A taxi from the turn-off to the monastery, plus waiting time and drive on to Nikšić, should cost €20–25. Alternatively, day trips operate from many towns on the coast.
Piva Monastery (Church of Sv. Bogorodica)
On the slopes above the village of Goransko, about 55km north of Nikšić on the main road (E-762) to Srbinje. Founded 1573 by Savatije, Metropolitan of Hercegovina. Impressive gilt iconostasis dating from 1638–39 and rich treasury. Originally stood much lower down slopes, but was moved to present location with building of dam and flooding of gorge.
Monastery, Cetinje
Founded by Ivan Crnojević in 1484 as the residence of the Metropolitan of Zeta, and from 1516 the seat of the Vladika, the Orthodox ruler-bishops of inland Montenegro. The original monastery was destroyed in an explosion in 1692. The present structure dates from the 18th century, and was heavily restored after the First World War.
Gospa od Škrpjela
Near Perast, on Boka Kotorska. Built 1452 on an artificial island. Used as model by Swiss painter Böcklin for his well-known painting The Isle of the Dead (1880, now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York).
Hussein Pasha Mosque, Pljevlja
Founded 1569 by Hussein Pasha Boljanić, this is a good example of a provincial Ottoman mosque.
Mausoleum of Petar II Petrović Njegoš, on Lovćen
Described by J.A. Cuddon (The Companion Guide toJugoslavia) as ‘probably the loneliest and windiest grave in the world’. Contains a statue of Montenegro’s celebrated ruler-poet in black marble by the Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrović.
Caryatid at the mausoleum of Petar II Petrović Njegoš, on Jezerski vrh (Route 3)
Stari grad, Kotor
Kotor’s old town is a beautiful example of a walled medieval city (and along with a large part of Boka Kotorska a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and should not be missed.
Stari Bar
Beautifully preserved walled medieval town on the lower slopes of Rumija.
Stećci
There are good examples of stećci (a distinctive type of medieval tombstone) at Pljevlja and in the Durmitor region, for example near Vražje jezero, and at Bare Žugića and Šćepan polje.
A SELECTION OF MONTENEGRIN FESTIVALS
| February/early March | Shrovetide Carnival, Kotor |
| 30 May | Vladimir’s Cross – a procession with this relic from Bar to the summit of Rumija |
| 22 July | ‘Fašinda’, Gospa od Škrpjela, offshore fromPerast; commemorates construction of artificialisland upon which this church is built |
| July/August | Summer Theatre Festival, Budva |
| August | Montenegrin Film Festival, Herceg Novi |
| August | Folk Music Festival, Cetinje |
In Montenegro ‘National Day’ is celebrated on the 13th of July. Remember that in the Orthodox Church, Christmas falls on the 7th of January.
Food and drink
Grilled meats feature prominently on the Montenegrin or Serbian menu, most grandly in the combination commonly known as the roštilj (‘grill’), and eating out in Montenegro will be a trying experience for vegetarians. Vegetarians or those fed up with mixed grills should ask: ‘Da li imate nešto bez mesa?’ (‘Do you have something without meat?’). For non-vegetarians, ćevapčići and šopska salata make a delicious and cheap meal which is served throughout the country.
Fish is also generally in good supply. Fresh fruit and vegetables are available on local markets, along with local cheeses and dried meats.
Rakija, a potent local spirit, comes in a number of guises, including travarica (made with herbs) and loza (made from grapes); and sampling a good domaća (‘homemade’) is an integral part of travelling in the region. The best Montenegrin wine comes from Crmnica, the region northwest of Lake Skadar; the best local beer is the eponymous Nikšić Pivo. Fruit juice is widely available.
See Appendix D for useful phrases when ordering food and drink and translating menus.
Be aware that Montenegro is notorious for some appallingly bad service. Even my Montenegrin and Serbian friends agree on this and are used to the same treatment themselves – so don’t take any such experiences to heart or let them ruin your visit!
Language
The official language of Montenegro is Montenegrin (crnogorski). It was given this name in 2007, following independence from Serbia – before this it was called Serbian (srpski), as it is still known by many. Montenegrin/Serbian is a south Slavonic language, very similar to Croatian and Bosnian. (When these countries were all part of the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, language was standardized, and given the name Serbo-Croat.) Many Turkish words entered the Serbian language during the region’s centuries of Ottoman rule Serbian is a phonetic language – that is, every letter in a word is pronounced, and the pronunciation of any given letter is always the same. In this respect it is far more consistent than many more familiar European languages, including English and French.
Serbian is written in the Cyrillic script, similar to Russian but with some important exceptions. However, the Latin script (as used for Croatian) is also in common use in Montenegro (there are newspapers and magazines published in both), which generally makes reading menus, signs and timetables much easier. Still, you will almost certainly encounter Cyrillic at some point during your visit, so should ultimately familiarize yourself with both scripts (see Appendix D).
The Bay of Kotor (Boka Kotorska), from Perast
Pronunciation is very important if you are to be understood clearly. Note that a number of letters, though they may appear quite familiar (in both Cyrillic and Latin scripts), are nevertheless pronounced very differently to how they would be in English: the Cyrillic letters X, J, H, P, C, Y and B are actually pronounced ‘h’, y, ‘n’, ‘r’, ‘s’, ‘oo’ and ‘v’ respectively. The Latin letters C and J are pronounced ‘ts’ and y respectively.
English is spoken fairly widely in main tourist centres along the coast, less so inland (with the exception of places which see plenty of overseas visitors such as Žabljak).
See Appendix D for further language notes, basic phrases and vocabulary, and a list of words which you may need to recognise in Cyrillic.
Getting to Montenegro
And now that we are approaching the wilder parts of Jugoslavia a word about roads and maps is timely.
JA Cuddon, The Companion Guide to Jugoslavia (London, 1968)
Visas are not required for visitors travelling to Montenegro on UK or any other EU passports for stays of up to 30 days. The same rule applies to citizens of a number of other countries, including Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, Switzerland and the United States. If you plan on staying longer than 30 days, by far the most straightforward solution is to pop over the border into a neighbouring country and then return.
Flights from the UK and Western Europe
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly direct from the UK to Podgorica, which is the most convenient (and cheapest) way to reach Montenegro from the UK, and is well placed for accessing the walks in this guide. Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) fly direct from the UK to Tivat on the coast.
Other flights from the UK and Western Europe to Podgorica – including the national carrier, Montenegro Airlines – involve one (or sometimes two) stops, and are considerably more expensive.
Podgorica’s airport is at Golubovci, about 15km south of the capital. A shuttle bus is meant to operate between the airport and Podgorica, timed to meet Montenegrin Airways arrivals/departures – however in reality it doesn’t, so you will need to get a taxi. The fare into central Podgorica shouldn’t be more than 8–10. Taxi touts waiting at arrivals may quote considerably more than this – in which case, politely decline. If you want to book a taxi in advance, contact Taxi PG (www.taxipg.com, Tel: 069 951 961) or Taxi Travel (www.taxi-travel.me, Tel: 069 949 197). Golubovci is on the road to Virpazar and Lake Skadar (Route 5), so if you’re visiting this area (and it is highly recommended that you do so) it makes sense to start or finish your trip there.
In view of the comparative length and expense of other routes, many people still find flying to Dubrovnik, in Croatia, and then continuing to Montenegro by bus or taxi, a convenient option, particularly if visiting the Montenegrin coast or hiking on Orjen (Routes 1 and 2) – see below.
Travelling via Croatia
Travelling via Croatia carries the alluring prospect of spending some time on the lovely Croatian coast and islands after your exhausting days or weeks of walking in Montenegro.
Dubrovnik’s airport is actually at Čilipi, less than 20km south of Dubrovnik and only some 30km from the Montenegrin border at Debeli Brijeg. From the airport there is a shuttle bus to Dubrovnik. Take this if you plan to spend the night in Dubrovnik, or go as far as the turn-off to Cavtat if you want to stay there. (The local Dubrovnik-Cavtat bus picks up here, and will take you the last 3km down into Cavtat; it runs approximately every 30mins.)
Old mill in the Ropojana Valley, Prokletije (Route 17)
There are buses from Dubrovnik to Herceg Novi on the Montenegrin coast, continuing to Kotor and Budva at 10.00, 11.00 and 15.00 daily, with the 11.00 service continuing to Ulcinj. Buses don’t pick up from the airport, but will let passengers off there, so unless you plan to spend the night in Dubrovnik, you may be better off taking a taxi over the border and using the bus when you return.
If you are heading straight to Montenegro, a taxi from the airport to Herceg Novi (from where you can continue by local bus) will cost around 50; coming the other way, fares are roughly 40 Herceg Novi to Čilipi, around 50 to Dubrovnik (but some Montenegrin taxi drivers may be reluctant to cross the border). Hitching to, or over, the border can prove difficult, as very few drivers will stop to pick people up here – and any taxis waiting on the other side will ask extortionate rates. Note that the two border posts at Debeli Brijeg are quite far apart – if you’re walking or hitching, allow 20mins to walk between the two.
Airlines flying direct to Dubrovnik from the UK include British Airways (www.britishairways.com), Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.hr), Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) and Monarch (www.monarch.co.uk). Book flights (and accommodation in Dubrovnik, if you plan to spend any time there) as far as advance as possible – it’s the most popular destination on the Croatian coast.
Dubrovnik can also be reached by ferry (from Italy, and from other cities on the Croatian coast) and by bus (from most places in Croatia), and by domestic flights from Zagreb (www.croatiaairlines.hr).
For more information about travelling via Croatia, see Appendix C and visit www.croatia.hr and www.visit-croatia.co.uk.
By rail or bus from Western Europe
Travelling to Montenegro by rail is not particularly cheap or fast, but will certainly involve a smaller carbon footprint than a flight. See the Rail Europe (www.raileurope.co.uk) and especially the Deutsche Bahn (www.bahn.com) websites for possible routes and fares. Better value is an InterRail (www.raileurope.co.uk) or a Eurail (www.eurail.com, which must be bought outside Europe) pass, which allows travellers to stop off and explore several other countries on their way to Croatia. InterRail tickets, once the privilege of those under the age of 26, are now available to all age groups.
The only rail route into Montenegro is from Belgrade – there is no rail crossing between Croatia and Montenegro. Note that rail tickets are far cheaper purchased locally: Belgrade–Bar costs approximately 25 one way (first class, including seat reservation).
Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) runs international bus services from the UK to Montenegro. Season tickets are available for 15-day or 30-day periods.
Sv. Djordje and Gospa od Škrplja, on the Bay of Kotor, near Perast
Local transport
Bus
Local buses and minibuses will take you to most, but not all, of the starting/finishing points for the routes in this guide, and are generally the cheapest and most convenient way to travel – see the transport information at the beginning of each of routes in this guide. They are very frequent on major routes, and pick up passengers at many points along the way. You can buy a ticket at a bus station or on the bus itself. Sample one-way fares are: Podgorica to Virpazar 2.50; Budva to Kotor 3; Podgorica to Plav 11. Return fares are cheaper than two singles, but you’ll need to return on a service run by the same bus company.
For a timetable of departures from Podgorica to various destinations in Montenegro, see www.autobusni-kolodvor.com (and click on ‘english’).
Train
The only train line in Montenegro which you are likely to use is that running from Bar to Podgorica, Kolašin, Mojkovac and Bijelo Polje (and on to Belgrade). Slightly slower than the bus, it is nevertheless a spectacular feat of engineering, plunging through the mountains in an endless succession of tunnels and bridges (including one of the highest viaducts in Europe) on its route to the border. The poor condition of some of Montenegro’s rolling stock was highlighted by a major rail crash in early 2006, just north of Podgorica.
For timetables and further information, see www.zcg-prevoz.me and Appendix C.
Taxi
Organizing a taxi from the end of a bus route to the start of a walk will be necessary for some of the routes in this guide (for example from the village of Kolašin to the beginning of the walk on Komovi, Route 11). This is straightforward enough, and if there are no taxis visible you can ask someone in a National Park office, shop or kiosk, who is almost certain to know someone with a car who is prepared to take you, for a reasonable price. You may need to know a few words or phrases in Serbian to explain where you want to go. Where relevant, details of where to ask and how much you should expect to pay are given in the transport information at the beginning of each route. Prices are quite reasonable: Andrijevica to Veruša via Treškovac (approximately 60km) shouldn’t be more than €40, Podgorica city centre to airport €10.
Hitching
Hitching is perfectly acceptable in the mountains (you may have less luck on the coast), and may provide a convenient way of getting between some of the more remote walks in this guide and the nearest bus stop. However, remember that hitching can never be recommended as entirely safe, particularly for women travelling alone.
WARNING – CROSS-BORDER TRAVEL
Although travel within Montenegro is perfectly safe, visitors are strongly advised against straying over the border into neighbouring countries (with the exception of those itineraries detailed within this guide, and established cross-border routes such as the Peaks of the Balkans trail in Prokletije and the Via Dinarica route from Bioč into Sutjeska National Park in Bosnia) – however attractive various trans-Balkan mountain walks may appear on the map. In particular, the presence of landmines in Bosnia-Hercegovina and certain areas of Croatia should discourage walkers and mountaineers from crossing between these countries and Montenegro except at established border crossings. There are also rumours of landmines over the Albanian border, and the border areas between Kosovo and Montenegro may also carry the risk of unexploded ordnance, while Kosovo remains one of the least stable areas in Europe, and the eastern part of Lake Skadar is a popular smuggling route.
Accommodation
Accommodation options in Montenegro range from large hotels to small family-run pensions, and hostels, as well as private rooms (sobe) and apartments (apartmani). You will often be approached at bus stations and other public places by people offering private rooms or apartments. In these cases try to get a clear idea of exactly what’s on offer before going to look at a room: how far it is from the centre of town, the price (and whether this is per person, or for the room), whether you are expected to share the room if travelling alone. Rates vary between high and low season, and may be more if you stay fewer than three nights. Rates in pensions and hotels generally include breakfast; those for private rooms and apartments do not.
A brief selection of recommended pensions, hotels and private rooms in towns relevant to this guide is given in Appendix C. Details of mountain huts and camping are given in the ‘Walking in Montenegro’ section, below.
Money
Currency
Montenegro may not be in the EU, but its official currency has nevertheless been the Euro since 2002. Croatian kunas or Serbian dinars are best changed before you get here.
Costs
Costs in Montenegro are higher than they should be in a country trying to attract more foreign visitors though lower than in neighbouring Croatia and still reasonable for most Western visitors. Staying in hotels will prove the biggest drain on your budget. Restaurants and public transport are relatively cheap. Below are some sample prices: cup of coffee (espresso) 70c, simple meal (such as a portion of ćevapćići and šopska salata) €5.50, main meal in restaurant (such as grilled fish, side dish, salad) €10+, bottle of local wine in supermarket €2–10, glass of local beer €1.50c, loaf of bread 50c, short bus journey (Podgorica to Virpazar) €2.50, national park entry €2.
Krošnja, a high, glaciated cirque in Prokletije (Route 15)
Carrying money
Montenegro is a fairly safe country in which to travel by most standards. However, be aware that the local economy is in tatters, unemployment is high and an average local salary only about €500 per month after tax. Avoid tempting fate (or more particularly, theft) by carrying money in a money-belt and not waving expensive-looking cameras and great wads of cash around.
ATMs, credit cards and changing money
ATMs (bankomat) can now be found increasingly widely in Podgorica and other large towns, but are less common in smaller towns away from the coast and are most likely absent from villages in the mountains. Pounds sterling (funte) and other currencies can also be exchanged at exchange offices and at most banks. Credit cards are accepted in the majority of hotels (not usually for private rooms), as well as in larger shops and supermarkets.
Staying in touch
Telephones
The international dialing code for Montenegro is 00 381.
Some local dialing codes (remember to omit the zero if calling Montenegro from abroad) are:
Cetinje, Budva 086
Herceg Novi 088
Kotor, Tivat 082
Mojkovac 084
Plav 0871
Podgorica, Kolašin 081
Nikšić 083
Žabljak, Pljevlja 0872.
Phone cards can be bought in newspaper kiosks.
Mobiles
Mobile phones with roaming (that is, almost any new mobile phone) will work fine in Montenegro.
Internet
Internet cafés can be found in most major cities and tourist centres, including Žabljak.
Walking in Montenegro
There is an ever-growing number of websites devoted to tourism in Montenegro, many of them far richer in hyperbole than in any practical information for the visitor, let alone the mountain walker.
The best online source of information on walking in Montenegro is to be found at www.summitpost.org (choose ‘Mountains and Rocks’ and search for ‘Montenegro’). The site contains a wealth of material, including photos, on mountain areas in Montenegro. Although there are some inaccuracies, it provides a valuable resource.
A more extensive list of websites is given in Appendix C.
Where to start?
With its spectacular scenery, well-marked trails and convenient local transport, Durmitor (Routes 6–8) will almost certainly be at the top of your agenda in Montenegro. Komovi (Route 11) is another wonderful area, very compact and with some exciting peaks. Prokletije (Routes 14–17) remains one of the wildest corners of Europe, harder to get to and much less visited, but with some quite unforgettable scenery. Less extreme in terms of terrain, but if anything even more remote than Prokletije, is Kučka krajina (Route 12). Of the many longer itineraries possible in Montenegro, perhaps the most rewarding is to combine the routes on Biogradska gora, Komovi, Maglić and Kučka krajina (Routes 9–12, see Appendix A). Forest is at its richest in Biogradska gora National Park (Bjelasica; Route 9) and parts of Durmitor. The Bay of Kotor (see Route 3, Alternative Route, and Route 4) remains perhaps the most impressive area of natural scenery on the coast, while Lake Skadar National Park (Route 5) is an ornithologist’s paradise.
Mountain huts and camping
Campsite in Kučka krajina (Route 12)
In contrast to neighbouring Croatia, mountain huts and shelters are relatively few and far between in the mountains of Montenegro, and in many cases camping is the only practical option. The official line is that camping is permitted at designated spots, such as next to a mountain hut or shelter. However, in practice the rules are rather more flexible, and particularly in the more remote areas you are unlikely to encounter any problems. Exercise common sense when camping: pitch your tent well off the main trail, do not light open fires, and avoid camping in sensitive border areas.
Those mountain huts and shelters which you do find will generally be unstaffed, with no electricity. In some cases, you will need to arrange to get the key from someone (details of this, where applicable, are given in the relevant route descriptions). Nevertheless they are typically a great place to meet local walkers and climbers. It is your responsibility to leave huts clean and tidy, to take your litter with you, and in some cases to lock up and return the key. Note that many huts have their own resident dormouse (puh in Serbian). These little creatures will do their best to sample all or any of your food they can reach (and it’s remarkable what they will manage to chew through to get at it), and for this reason most huts have some sort of wooden frame on the kitchen ceiling from which you should suspend your food bags (don’t forget to tie the tops, or you may well find a dormouse in one in the morning!).
Mountain huts relevant to the routes in this guide are listed in the introduction to each walk.
Katuns
A katun (summer cottage) on Bjelasica (Route 10)
Katuns are summer cottages in the mountains, to which locals move during the summer months to graze their livestock. They are typically occupied for three to four months of the year, depending on the severity of the previous winter (and more specifically the amount of snow remaining). You will pass many katuns on the routes in this guide. You may be invited in for a coffee by their friendly inhabitants, and in some cases you may be offered cheese for sale. Remember that they won’t have much for themselves, so accept in moderation. When camping near a katun, please bear in mind that this is someone’s home, and the local spring is their supply of drinking water.
WEATHER FORECASTS
Relevant weather forecasts for routes in this guidebook at: http://freemeteo.rs – change country tab (top left) from Srbija to Crna Gora, then choose between a list of towns (Gradovi) and mountains (Planine), including Žabljak (Durmitor), Subra (Orjen), Kom Vasojevički (Komovi), Jezerski vrh (Lovćen), North Albanian Alps (Prokletije). Choose forecast from Today (Danas) and subsequent days of the week listed left to right in Cyrillic.
www.accuweather.com also has 15-day forecasts for numerous locations in Montenegro (choose ‘world weather’, and type city name), including Crkvice (Orjen), Ivanova korita (for Lovćen), Veruša (Kučka krajina) and Gusinje (Prokletije). Remember that mountain conditions may be significantly different from neighbouring towns and cities.
What to take
Most people considering a walking holiday in Montenegro will be experienced hikers who already have a clear idea of what and what not to take in the way of equipment. For those in doubt, the following basic list may be useful.
Rucksack (approximately 60–75 litre capacity)
Walking boots with Vibram soles (wear them in before your trip)
Other footwear (rafting or trekking sandals, such as those made by Teva, are perfect)
Rainproof, breathable shell (Gore-Tex, eVENT or similar material)
Warm, preferably windproof fleece (Polartec or similar material), jacket or mid-layer
Light thermal base layer
Shorts and long trousers (lightweight, quick-drying material), long-sleeved shirt, T-shirts, underwear
Good quality walking socks (these counter the need to wear two layers of socks or sock-liners)
Warm gloves and hat
Sunhat
Reliable tent – indispensable on many routes; either tunnel or dome design (I have used Macpac tents for many years now, and they have withstood everything from Scottish and Alpine winters to storms in the Karakoram and New Zealand, and, in one instance, a herd of rather angry bulls)
Sleeping bag (2–3 season will be fine for all except winter use)
Sleeping mat (closed cell or inflatable)
Water bottles (lightweight aluminium, such as those made by Sigg, and/or collapsible plastic bladders such as those made by Platypus)
Stove (preferably multi-fuel such as MSR) and compatible fuel bottle(s)
Lightweight cooking pot, fork and spoon
Compass and relevant maps (and the knowledge of how to use them)
Torch (headlamps, such as those made by Petzl, are best)
Sunglasses and sun-block
Biodegradable soap (such as that made by Lifeventure)
Small first aid kit
Swiss army knife
Whistle (for attracting attention in an emergency)
Emergency reflective bag or ‘space blanket’
Matches (keep them dry in a plastic bag!)
Large plastic rucksack liner
Mosquito repellent
Iodine tablets (unlikely to be needed, but just in case)
Small two-pin adaptor (same as for most of continental Europe)
In addition to the above, you may wish to add:
Lightweight day pack
Walking poles.
A down jacket or vest will prove infinitely warmer than a fleece on a cold evening sitting outside a hut or tent, and will certainly not be out of place outside the summer months. Early in the season, you may need to carry a long-handled ice axe; in winter, this is mandatory, as are crampons.
Water
Water can be problematic on some routes, particularly in karst areas such as Orjen. It is a good idea to bring some collapsible plastic ‘bladders’ (such as those made by Platypus). These are extremely durable, weigh very little, and when empty take up almost no space in your pack. Details of available water are given in the introduction to individual routes and stages. Water from the great majority of springs referred to in this guide is clean and does not need purifying. However, it is wise to bring some iodine tablets for use in cases where you are uncertain about the quality of a water source.
Food and supplies
A spring in Kučka krajina (Route 12)
Buy food and supplies in larger towns on the coast; with the exception of Žabljak, few smaller mountain villages will have more than very basic items, and probably not much that you would want to carry into the mountains. It would also be wise to bring some essentials, such as instant soups and quick-cook pasta, from home – these can be difficult to obtain in Montenegro. The best place to try to find camping gas cartridges (both the pierceable and screw-on types) is the Voli supermarket in Žabljak. If you use camera film, bring it from home – that sold on the coast may be close to its expiry date or may have been poorly stored.
Maps
Haystacks on Bjelasica (Route 10)
Specialist map and travel shops in the UK such as The Map Shop (www.themapshop.co.uk) and Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk) stock general maps of Montenegro. Alternatively, Magic Map’s Crna Gora Autokarta, covering the country at a scale of 1:370,000, is widely available in Serbia and Montenegro and is reasonably priced. Wilderness Hiking Montenegro (1:450,000) also gives a useful overview, and is available free from tourist offices. The Slovenian-produced Črnogorsko primorje map of the Montenegrin coast (Geodetski Zavod Slovenije, 1:100,000), although more detailed, is not suitable for hiking.
Detailed walking maps of Durmitor and the Tara Canyon, Prokletije, Lake Skadar, Orjen, Bioč, Komovi and Bjelasica (at scales of between 1:25,000 and 1:60,000) are available in Montenegro from National Park offices and Tourist Information offices in the relevant area for around 4. You may be able to find one of the recommended maps of Durmitor (1:50,000) second hand on the internet (try www.abe.com) in the book Durmitor and Tara Canyon Guide by Branislav Cerović (Belgrade, 1986) – check with the seller that the copy you are buying still has the map attached. Montenegro Wilderness Biking contains detailed maps at 1:100,000 of several areas and can be a useful aid for hiking itineraries. See the box below for a summary of recommended maps for the routes in this guide.
The whole of Montenegro is also covered by various series of detailed military maps (generally not available for sale, or prohibitively expensive), including those produced by the JNA (Yugoslav People’s Army – 1:25,000, produced 1975; 1:50,000, produced 1981; and 1:100,000), by the former Soviet Union (1:50,000, produced 1974–77; and 1:100,000, produced 1975–87), and by the US (NIMA Series M709, 1:50,000, produced 1992–95). The JNA series are by far the best – US NIMA M709 sheets have very few local place names. Note that the text of the Soviet sheets is in Cyrillic. Buying military maps is not essential for the walks in this guide, however, all of which are covered by the guide’s sketch maps and by more detailed local hiking maps.
Unfortunately, even seven years after the first edition of this guide was published, many of these more detailed maps are still difficult to obtain or unavailable in the UK – at the time of writing, Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk) stocked some. As a last resort, a number of them can be viewed online, which (at least where they are unavailable in the UK) provides a means of looking at the relevant maps before setting off on your trip. (Do still buy the maps themselves when you get to Montenegro!) Try the following websites:
www.summitpost.org Several useful maps are given on the relevant pages of this website.
http://travel.valek.net (Czech website, some English text, click on ‘Mapy’) The ‘Prokletije’ map is excellent, and covers both Prokletije and Kučke krajine. ‘Sutjesko and Volujak’ covers Bioč.
There are also some very detailed maps by Pavlo Bandović in Planine Crne Gore by D Vincek, R Popović and M Kovačević (Podgorica, 2004), also available in English, as well as in German. Although not available in the UK, it is well worth getting a copy in Montenegro itself.
Note Some maps, however recent, are not without their inaccuracies, such as the inclusion of a hut which does not exist or a nice-looking route long obliterated by rockfall. Details of any such errors are given in this guide in the introduction to each walk.
RECOMMENDED MAPS
Maps available commercially in Montenegro are highlighted in bold.
ORJEN (Routes 1–2)
Guide and map (1:31,250) to the Orjen Massif (Mountaineering Club Subra, 2006); also available as Mountain Orjen Trail Hiking Guide and Map (1:40,000) (Mountaineering Club Subra, 2012). The older edition is by far the clearer of the two.
LOVĆEN (Routes 3–4)
Lovćen National Park (1:25,000)
SKADARSO JEZERO (LAKE SKADAR) AND RUMIJA (Route 5)
National Park Skadar Lake (1:55,000; Skadar Lake National Park/Austrian Development Cooperation/GTZ/Huber, Belgrade)
DURMITOR (Routes 6–8)
Durmitor and Tara Canyon (also available as Mountain Map Durmitor) (1:25,000, Tara Canyon on reverse at 1:50,000); alternatively, but not as good for Durmitor, Hiking and Biking Tourist Map, Montenegro – NP Durmitor, Piva/BiH – NP Sutjeska (1:50,000; COSV/US Aid); Durmitor (1:50,000) in the book Durmitor and the Tara Canyon, Serbian and English editions
BIOGRADSKA GORA AND BJELASICA (Routes 9–10)
Bjelasica Komovi Mountain Touristic Map, Biogradska Gora National Park (1:60,000; Geokarta, Belgrade); military sheets: JNA (1:50,000) sheet 628/1 (Ivangrad 1)
KOMOVI (Route 11)
Bjelasica Komovi Mountain Touristic Map, Biogradska Gora National Park (1:60,000; Geokarta, Belgrade); military sheets: JNA (1:50,000) sheet 628/3 (Ivangrad 3) – good coverage of Komovi, Maglić and Kučka krajina on one sheet
KUČKA KRAJINA (Route 12)
Military sheets: JNA (1:50,000) sheet 628/3 (Ivangrad 3) – good coverage of Komovi, Maglić and Kučka krajina on one sheet
VISITOR (Route 13)
Prokletije Hiking and Biking (1:50,000; GTZ/Huber, Belgrade); Peaks of the Balkans (1:60,000) also covers this area
PROKLETIJE (Routes 14–17)
Grbaja Valley (Routes 14–16): Prokletije Hiking and Biking (1:50,000; GTZ/Huber, Belgrade); Peaks of the Balkans (1:60,000) also covers this area; military sheets: JNA (1:50,000) sheet 628/4 (Ivangrad 4) or JNA (1:25,000) sheet 628-4-3 (Ivangrad 4–3: Gusinje)
Ropojana Valley (Route 17): Prokletije Hiking and Biking (1:50,000; GTZ/Huber, Belgrade); Peaks of the Balkans (1:60,000) also covers this area; military sheets: JNA (1:50,000) sheet 678/2 (Skadar 2) covering the area SE of the Ropojana Valley or JNA (1:25,000) sheets 678-2-1 (Skadar 2–1: Jezerce) covering Maja Rosit, and 678-2-2 (Skadar 2–2: Dragobija) covering Maja Kolata
Some useful sketch maps, originally published in Serbian mountaineering journals, can be found on the relevant pages of Summit Post (www.summitpost.org).
Trail markings
Trail markings on Subra (Route 1)
Most of the routes in this guide are clearly marked with a uniform system of waymarkings, the same as that found in Croatia, Slovenia and other republics from the former Yugoslavia. These waymarkings are known locally as markacija (‘markings’), and are found on rocks, trees or any other conspicuous object, in red and white paint.
A new national system of numbering these marked trails has also been developed in recent years – a three-digit number, marked with a yellow sign or a number between two red lines. These augment (rather than replace) the long-established system of markacija, and often only appear on, or where the trail departs from, a road or 4WD track.
Forestry markings will sometimes be encountered, typically a number of lines or bands spray-painted on a tree. However, these have no connection with marked hiking trails and can be ignored.
National parks
There are five areas designated as national parks (Nacionalni Park, often abbreviated NP) in Montenegro: Durmitor (including the Tara Canyon), Biogradska gora, Lovćen, Skadarsko jezero (Lake Skodra) and most recently, Prokletije. In addition, a number of areas have been declared ‘nature parks’. Since 1980, Durmitor and the Tara have been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There’s a small entrance fee for national parks, usually 3. As you might expect, national parks carry a number of rules and regulations, although there is rarely anyone present to enforce them. Use your common sense, and observe the following guidelines.
NATIONAL PARK GUIDELINES
Do not light any open fires, and be aware of the risks of forest fires
Do not leave any litter – carry it out of the mountains and dispose of it in a town or city
Bury toilet waste
Do not pick wild flowers
Do not disturb wild animals and birds
Camp at designated areas or well off the main trail.
Safety in the mountains
All those venturing into the mountains should be aware of the possible dangers, be prepared to administer basic first aid, and know how to react in an emergency. Note that although there is a mountain rescue service in Montenegro, basic problems such as communicating in an unfamiliar language and the remoteness of some areas – not to mention limitations in local funding – mean that it may take longer for you to contact help, and that help may take longer to reach you. In short, if anything goes wrong in the remotest corner of Prokletije, you should be prepared to be more self-sufficient than you might in other, more frequented mountain areas in Europe.
Always observe the following basic precautions:
