Читать книгу Kabuki Costume - Ruth M. Shaver - Страница 8
ОглавлениеTable of Contents
PART ONE: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
1: EARLY KABUKI
Okuni Kabuki
Onna Kabuki
Wakashu Kabuki
Yarō Kabuki
Danjūrō I and Aragoto
Actors and Roles
Shibaraku and Its Costumes
Sukeroku and Its Costumes
Danjūrō's Precepts for Actors
Genroku Theaters of Edo
The Jōshiki Maku, Kabuki's Standard Curtain
Regulations Governing Costume Before and During Genroku
Costumes and Make-up
7: MEIJI KABUKI
Danjūrō IX and the Theatrical Reformation
Onoe Kikugorō V
Other Meiji Actors
The Era of the Shintōmi-za
PART TWO: ISHŌ: COSTUMES
The Kimono
Onnagata Clothing
The Hakama
Otoko Clothing
10: MEN'S COSTUMES FOR JIDAI-MONO
Daimon
Suō
Naga-gamishimo
Kamishimo
Omigoromo
Yoten Costumes
Yakko Costumes
Bōzu Costumes
Special Costumes
11: ONNAGATA CCOSTUMES FOR JIDAI-MONO
Jūni-hitoe
Kaoyo Gozen Costume
Katahazushi Costume
Koshimoto Costume
Kokumochi Costume
Akahime Costume
12: MEN'S COSTUMES FOR SEWA-MONO AND KIZEWA-MONO
Tobi or Hikeshi Costumes
Wagoto and Nimaime Costumes
Michiyuki Dual-style Costumes
Wakashu Costumes
Kizewa-mono Costumes
13: ONNAGATA CCOSTUMES FOR SEWA-MONO
Machi-musume Costumes
Inaka-musume Costumes
Jochū-musume Costumes
Machi-nyōbō Costumes
Inaka-nyōbō Costumes
Kasha-gata or Fuke-oyama Costumes
Mekake Costumes
Geisha Costumes
Courtesan Costumes
Akuba Costumes
14: AARMOR AND BATTLE COSTUMES
Yoroi Designs
Mode of Dressing for Battle
Warriors' Wigs
Daimyō Battle Dress
Young Warrior Battle Dress
Other Battle Costumes
15: COSTUME PATTERNS AND COLOR
Standard Costume Designs
Designs Related to Roles
16: MON: CRESTS
Men's Hachimaki
Women's Hachimaki
Kammuri
Eboshi
Zukin
Kasa,
Bōshi
19: TENUGUI: THE SMALL HAND TOWEL
Materials Used for Tenugui
Color and Design of Tenugui
Masculine Styles of Wearing the Tenugui
Onnagata Styles of Wearing the Tenugui
20: OGI: FANS
Kabuki Ōgi
Tachi-yaku Ōgi
Onnagata Ōgi
Nō and Kyōgen Ōgi
Shosagoto Ōgi
21: KATANA: SWORDS
Kabuki Swords
The Ken
The Tachi
The Katana
Blades
Mountings and Decorations
Other Aspects of the Sword in Kabuki
22: KATSURA: WIGS
Wigmakers and Coiffeurs
Making the Wig
Mino-ge and Habutae
Hair Substitutes
Dressing the Wig
Wig Ornaments
The Habutae and Men's Wigs
Bōzu-katsura and Other Special Wigs
23: KUMADORI: STYLIZED MAKE-UP
24: HASHOR: PULLING UP THE KMONO HEM
