Читать книгу Maine Metaphor: The Green and Blue House - S. Dorman - Страница 8

Sour thoughts and careless deeds accumulate slowly, inadvertently, over time. This process tends to erode our spiritual heritage. It snowed glaciers in northern New England. Monstrous glaciers, ten thousand feet high. A slow accretion of tiny individual snow flakes. Glaciers, forgetful of places they covered. But underneath they ground away; breaking, crushing, abrading.

D. B. Wight, on the history of the upper Androscoggin, says that the town (pronounced BUR-lun by everyone here) was named for Germany’s capital. New Hampshire’s neighboring state—to the east—is full of international names: China, Peru, Lisbon, Rome, Lebanon, Madrid, Norway, Sweden, Mexico . . . Mexico, Maine?

Wight wrote that Tansy Town was originally called Maynesborough, after Sir Maynes, an English grant owner. First settled by Bethel Mainers, as time went on, its people became disgruntled with things colonial and English. So, when the town was incorporated, its settlers chose the German capital—something for the disgruntlement of their descendants, around the time of the First World War.

The valley along the Androscoggin, in that part becoming Maynesborough, then Berlin, was first inhabited by Abenakis. Their village street was lined with castoff jasper, mined from a nearby jasper cave and worked into points. This jasper was lustrous, brindled with brown and red. In this type of crystal the structure is so well hidden it can’t be detected with a regular microscope. This ecologically harmonious Abenaki communal society was agrarian—hunter-gatherer, able to survive graciously by picking up and utilizing what was needed from forest, river, rock. The first meat of each seasonal hunt was given away entirely. This was how they cared for their infirm, needy, those widowed, without family. They entertained and taught their generations with stories of their mythic hero, Gluskap. White settlers who supplanted them discovered that captive white women would not be sexually molested.

Eventually the valley of the Androscoggin, where the town hunkers, became a “city” of the wilderness. As logging center, its river transported hundreds of thousands of acres-full, northward, cut to supply hungry new mills. Trees fell like snowflakes; large farms were installed to feed loggers and their draft teams. In the late eighteen hundreds one mill ground thirty million log feet to pulp each year; 86,400,000 square feet of newsprint were produced every day. Each spring a bristling river of logs, the Androscoggin gorged with whole spruce forests, ground its way southward through the valley. Eastward the village of Grafton, Maine sent its logs and pulpwood via the railroad through Success Township to those pulp grinders and all-consuming paper machines. Whole villages—with sewers, electricity, phones, stores and homes—villages such as Hastings on the Wild River over the border in Maine, were bought and sold on the basis of timber. Not since the glaciers had the land known such voracious use.

One morning while in the Eastern Depot (doing laundry and already in a sweat) I realized I did not know the name of the Pluton. I asked the first customer who walked in. She was from away, didn’t know, but thought maybe the owner—a French woman—would know. I walked into the restaurant to ask. I wanted to know how high it was too. There followed a quest for information that led me to waitresses, kitchen help, blue collar workers, the librarian, and finally the fire department.

Along with a clatter of tableware from the kitchen came some names, Mt. Forest and Mt. Jasper. I remembered then the smaller mountain across the narrow valley from the pluton. Wasn’t Cates Hill fledging off this mountain? At the counter of the Depot restaurant there was momentary confusion as to which was which. Finally it was determined that my pluton was Mt. Forest. But no one knew its elevation.

Later, on the other side of the river, the librarian, alerted to my search by a phone call from the Depot kitchen, turned out to be helpful and pregnant. She checked the town’s history booklets without success, then to my surprise she called the fire department. While she was talking, a friendly sort who had recently moved from the Catskills suggested checking the Appalachian mountain guide. This had not occurred to me—possibly because I thought of Mt. Forest as a city fixture? Yet now the fire department came through, the librarian writing down the elevation, along with that of neighboring Mt. Jasper: Mt. Forest 2,046 feet, Mt. Jasper 1,621. And yes, the latter communed with Cates Hill and the terraced neighborhood I had first collected—where homeowners were diligently painting their trim.

The Pluton now had a wonderful grip on me: each new tidbit of knowledge made me hope for more. I now wanted to know if a trail ascended it. The librarian knew but vaguely of one. Something about going to the head of a street, one of many dead-ending on the feet of the Rock. She was unsure which street; pointed out a couple possibilities from a yellowing map on the wall.

On my way to the car I determined to find that trail, even if I could do nothing with it. There was yet the wondering if anyone in Tansy Town knew much about the most striking piece of geology I had ever seen in such a setting. (Imagine looking down on the toy-filled world at some lost gemstone—crusted in lichen—in a box of children’s play jewels.)

But was today the day to begin exploration? With mounds of work still to do on the old apples, my day was already stoked with heat. The image of Allen . . . faithfully working away beneath paper machines in industrial 120 F. heat . . .

Would need plenty of water for any climb; my thermos in the car was empty of the morning’s iced coffee. Then I spied the fire station across the street.

Well. I had been curious about it . . .

I filled my thermos from a spigot inside the station. The bespectacled, round, stolid-looking fireman sat at his kitchen table behind the shining engines, cup in hand. He knew enough about Mt. Forest to prove a creditable guide, but it was his stolidity that secured me. He knew the mountain by snowmachine: a network of trails interlaced on the backside. In answer to my question about time and distance, he said it would take a couple of hours to climb on foot. He glanced out the window and cautioned that it looked like a storm brewing just beyond the summit. I saw the pluton backed by turbulent darkness. But now I had more than I came for: unlooked for directions to a backside trailhead down the highway; I thanked him and headed for my car.

The storm-brew counseled patience so I drove around looking for two trails—those suggested by the librarian and fireman. Driving, I craned my neck to look up at mysterious Mt. Forest. What would this town, the river and pulp mill, the surrounding mountains look like from up there? Set in the White Mountains; eastward the Maine Mahoosucs; all part of the great batholithic mystery, and the Appalachian chain. This 2,000 ft. Tansy Town pluton was but a nubble of the great whole.

I drove out Route 110 looking for the Budweiser distributorship—one of the fireman’s landmarks . . . Ah. His trail shot up away from the highway, filled with square rocks the size of softballs and basketballs. It looked like a landslide leading down from disaster. I glanced higher and saw that darkness was moving off from the hill, leaving the air stagnant but undisturbed. Yet I could not devote four hours for a round-trip to this climb. Drove back to town, easing the car up and down steep back streets, searching for a trail at some high deadend. Above me soared the tree-clad wall. There were houses up here; a high quiet neighborhood on the feet of the pluton. I felt conspicuous and intrusive pulling up into driveways, backing away again. Searching for a path.

A spring, piped and speeding into a bucket set in rocks beneath trees; behind a swing-set I spy a thin brown trail rising among rocks. I yank the parking brake on the Subaru, get out and go behind the house into this yard where a family is busy with summer’s recreation. I am speaking to a mother and small son about the path, asking permission to pass. The boy becomes hoppy over my proposed climb. His older cousin once said you could see all Tansy Town from up there. A man, hugely potbellied and readying a kiddie pool, grants me permission. He warns about slippery rocks: Someone fell not long ago.

People in Tansy Town have aided my quest, and once more someone has thought of my safety. I thank him, promise to stick to the path and avoid the rocks; walk to the spring, stick my kerchief under its silver stream, wring it out and wrap it around my hot head. Now I pass into woodland shadows beneath the pluton.

But remembering my promise not to climb on rocks prompts a laugh. Too soon the path has disappeared and there are nothing but rocks to climb on. Here are rocks, thin trees, and blueberry bushes. I kneel among berries and begin stuffing my face.

A nudge. I stop, look carefully at a berry: wild, small—tiny-wild: its color deep blue under its light bloom. The pale silky bloom of this blueberry is very delicate. It comes off with a careless touch of my thumb. (May I be moved to care, refrain from greed.) Berry’s smell is fresh and luscious; the small seeds stick in my teeth.

Clambering over nubbly rocks and boulders; my lunch bag swinging off my shoulder. Views open out for me through leaves of spindly pale birches. Massive granite boulders slope down, I climb up, and turn. Now, unimpeded, the view.

Much of Tansy Town is spread about, some of it climbing upon the opposite slope of the valley. That would be? . . . My first guess is the other side of the Androscoggin. But smoke, issuing from trees on my right points its location there. The other is a more northerly house-choked view—the flank of Jasper, Cates Hill—the first neighborhood of my collection. It is a littleness of distant houses, and neighborhoods, prompting an affectionate fondness in me. Think of them, living their tiny little lives, remote. Remote in stories, the stories of their lives. And there, a bit to the right, is a patch of curved highway, silent in distance: Route 16, the way remote to the Wayside, the old Abenaki village site, the north, and Aziscohos Mountain in Maine. And beyond that scrap of smoke on my right are the shades of the Mahoosucs, where the Town of Grafton vanished when the wood ran out. Yet, for all this, the pluton’s path has not taken me far. I feel myself lifted upon the flank of the giant, but understand instead that I am only perched on its tumbled knees.

Immediately surrounding: rock and peripheral foliage. Air is hot and hushed, still. So hot I am even missing the hum of insectan life. Looking around, above: more boulders, coarse and uneven. Knobby pegmatite, old, old and cast down from the head of the pluton. Cast down by frost-plucking, the freezing and thawing of glacial melt water in cracks and crevices of the old gouged stone face.

I hop back onto more level rock (with an obscured view), and set my lunch in shadows. Great gapes are in boulders above and below. I peer into one, dark, cool-looking, of rubbled pegmatite. Pegmatite is granite, the grains of which are exceptionally large. It veins these mountains and valleys, crucible of gemstone and shining or opaque mineral. Light slants in from another hole on the right revealing a heap of broken pegmatite on the floor. It is a caveful of tumbled rock, perhaps the size of a Papermaker’s blend chest.

I reach in and feel the rock with my palms, my fingers. Grayish quartz and books of mica in a background of pink feldspar—all from the broken mineral glory of the great face. I saw the same constituents in that outcropping beside the highway the other day: not coarsest, blocky pegmatite but tubular intrusions of pink granite. From a distance it was almost uniformly pink, smoothed, fissured into neat blocks. Here granite’s constituents are separate, whole, and retaining their forms, identities, peculiarities—if shattered.

When in solution beneath the earth, these now crystalline features sorted themselves and settled out according to type; according to individual element, because the crystallizing temperature of each varies. This corresponds to experience in adult life which occurs when one retires (more or less) from certain influences, consciously choosing those that agree with one’s nature and thought. One’s identity, crystallizing out of the solution of the crowd, is thus allowed to form. G. K. Chesterton wrote that the purpose of having an open mind is in order that one may study and come to conclusions about the nature of things. And a conclusion is perforce a closing, the maturation of mind acknowledging something, letting it be what it is. For a mind kept constantly open achieves no stability whatever. (Of course there are qualifiers for this.)

I grab my lunch, hop back to the sloping rock and its prospect. Slowly I eat, absorbing the silent, almost oppressively still, view. Masticating and meditating. Finished, I start out across the boulders, searching for sight of the vast, sheer, vertically streaked wall that is so striking when viewed from almost any corner of Tansy Town. Away, through bright birch leaves, I make out an area high above: reflected light like sky. Through obscuring leaves the wall looks beige-colored, speckled or streaked with brown. A small framed view. I turn away, pick a course over rocks, around trees, descending.

The cries of children come up through trees, the murmurings of their mother. Through the tired green I see backs bent to the activity of berrying. Along the path now I see the boy who said you could see all Tansy Town up there. “Did you get to the top?!” “No, I did see a little something, though.”

As I pass the swing-set sweat drips from my face. My head, still wrapped in its now-dry kerchief is heavy and hot. This is the hottest summer in fifty years, documented. Spy the gushing spring and run to immerse this hot head. Oh . . . Cold enough to cramp. I walk toward my car, recalling the other, the secluded, spring beside a railroad track with its invitation.

At first I had thought the people of Tansy Town barely aware of this overtopping pluton. Then I went questing, discovering the accretion of caring. Caring solidifies itself, like jasper, like crypto-crystalline quartz, and like the lives of natives whose society is whole. Perhaps the pluton moves in and out of each individual awareness. They don’t all know its name, elevation or dimensions. But, because I pursue this quest, I find that many have been here.

Some live on its feet. Others have climbed or slaked their thirst from its flanks. And some have fallen from it. Those who live near may eat of its fruit, play in its eastering shadow. They experience Mt. Forest.