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Splicing

Sometimes the cord will run a bit short or maybe you would like to extend the size of your project. You can simply tie two pieces of cord together to extend them, discreetly weave a new piece into a knot, or splice the segments into one.

Alternatively, synthetic cords (such as nylon or polypropylene) can be fused together by melting. Remember: only use this technique on synthetic cords; this is not suitable for natural fibers, as they will catch fire. Fusing with heat can be fragile, so I do not recommend using this on any weight-bearing projects (such as plant hangers). Hold two pieces parallel and briefly run a heat source (flame of a lighter used here) over the ends (a). Quickly bring the two ends together (b) and allow the melted points to cool completely.

Splicing remnants

Fabric Strips

Fabric is cut and knotted in the projects in this book to add a little more color and pattern to some of the simpler designs. When appropriate, fabric can be cut from scrap or remnant articles into pieces with a width of 1" to 2" (2.54 to 5.08cm), or longer strips from bolt fabric. Here are two ways fabric strips are made in this text:

• Strips: Bolt fabric or fat quarters were purchased or found when pieces 2' (60.96cm) or shorter were required. Fabric shears are required for this method. Find the longest edge of the fabric to be used, then fold the fabric horizontally from the shorter edge. Fold to a point which the fabric can still be sheared by scissors, but so few cuts will need to be made. This will keep the edge of the fabric relatively straight. Measure off the desired width and cut one straight line. The resulting fabric ribbons will likely fray, so a fray preventative can be added to the fabric edges and left to dry before handling.

How to add fabric strips

• Remnants: Remnant pieces, long or short, can be combined to create a lovely boho-style fabric strip. Either ends can be sewn as shown, or pieces can be spliced together. To splice, cut a small slit into each of the adjoining ends. Feed end A up through end B, then take the opposite end of strip B and feed it up through end A. Gently tug the ends together.

Plant Hanger Loop

The top of a plant hanger requires a loop so it may dangle from a hook. The easiest starting point is to center cords on a metal ring, but a metal ring doesn’t always match the plant hanger aesthetic, or one may not be available. Here’s the pattern used in this text for starting off a hanger by making a wrapped loop:

In addition to the materials for the plant hanger pattern, cut an extra 6' to 7' (1.83 to 2.13m) piece of cord in the same color, and maybe a small piece of string in contrasting color. Gather and find the center plant hanger cords and tie the contrasting string in the center to mark it. Shift up about 2" (5.08cm), and center the 7' (2.13m) piece of cord from this point (a). Form a series of square knots over the entire bundle of cords (b). The center string can be removed temporarily for knotting; re-tie the string to mark the center again. Once the covered portion reaches 4" (10.16cm) long, fold at the center point (c) and gather all the cords together (d). Continue to square knot around the bundle of cord until the working ends can no longer form knots (about 2" [5.08cm]) (e). The center marker can be removed at this point.

Making a plant hanger loop

Finishing Techniques

Whether the cord is twisted, braided, or knitted, it can come undone. To prevent the cord or yarns from unraveling over time, there are a few ways to combat the unraveling, or just simply work with it.

Bind with glue: Add a dab of clear drying craft or tacky glue to the tips of any cords that can unwind. Best used on natural materials. Just a touch is all that’s needed.

Use a finishing knot:

• Overhand knot

• Square knot

• Wraps

Melt it: Only do this with synthetic cords! Natural materials will catch on fire.

Acrylic paint dip: Much like using glue on the tips of the cord, the acrylic paint will bind the ends together, plus add a touch of flair.

Embrace the fray: Unwind the cord as soon as you wrap up the project. Use a macramé brush or basic comb to straighten and fluff.

FAUX FEATHERS

Faux feathers can be replicated using just about any twisted fiber. In the examples below, feathers are formed using ordinary crochet cotton yarn.

Left: reef knot; right: half-knot

• Reef Knot: One strand is required for mounting, and at least 48 6" (15.24cm) strands are required for the feathering.

• Half-Knot: One strand for mounting, and 48 8" (20.32cm) strands for the feathering. A square knot (here) may be ideal to keep the cords secure; however, a half-knot may be sufficient.

TASSELS

Tassels can be substituted for faux feathers or used as an embellishment on any wall hanging. To make a tassel from yarn, wrap one continuous piece around the width of a hand (or a squat book for longer tassels). Form at least 20 to 24 rotations to make the tassel full; the more rotations, the thicker the tassel will become. Once the optimal thickness is achieved, cut the yarn free. Clip a piece of yarn at least 8" to 10" (20.32 to 25.40cm) long, then thread and center this at the top of the tassel through the gap formed by the fingers. Tie the ends of this yarn together with an overhand knot, then pinch the top of the tassel to prevent it from moving around. Clip another 18" to 24" (45.72 to 60.96cm) piece of yarn, then wrap the top of the tassel. Clip the loops at the bottom of the tassel. The tassel can be trimmed to the desired length, or just to neaten up the ends.

This same technique can be achieved with fabric or ribbon. Fabric strips will fray over time. For fabric strips greater than ¼" (0.64cm), the hanging loops can be first cut vertically to form thinner hanging tassel ribbons.

Substitute tassels for faux feathers