Читать книгу Inspired Star Block Quilts - Sandy Berg - Страница 6
ОглавлениеBefore we get going, I have some thoughts concerning tools and products used in quiltmaking. My best advice is to get to know the products you intend to use before using them in a project. Read the labels and test the products. This really applies to everything you will use in quiltmaking! Knowing what you are using and how to use it properly will give you much better results.
As with many specialized areas, quilting has a lot of common terms and abbreviations. For your reference, here are some abbreviations that are used in these patterns.
•WOF = Width of Fabric—A cut of fabric that goes from one selvage to the selvage on the opposite side.
•RST = Right Sides Together—In sewing two pieces of fabric together, you place them with the right side of the fabrics facing one another.
•WST = Wrong Sides Together—In sewing two pieces of fabric together, you place them with the wrong side of the fabrics facing one another.
•HST = Half Square Triangle—This is a unit that is made from two triangles of fabric sewn together diagonally.
•QST = Quarter Square Triangle—This is a unit that is made from four 90° triangles of fabric sewn together diagonally.
•SS = Strip Set—This is the result of sewing two or more strips of fabric together. The strips are usually cut the width of the fabric (from selvage to selvage). After sewing these together, they are then cut apart in measured sections.
•WOF = width of fabric
•Sew with a ¼" (0.64cm) seam unless specified otherwise
Fabric Requirements and Preparation
Today’s quilt fabrics are usually from 42" to 45" (1 to 1.15m) wide on the bolt. The patterns in this book assume 40" (1.02m) of usable fabric after removing the selvages, and the projects in this book are designed to use 100% cotton fabrics.
Before cutting pieces for your quilt, there are a few things I recommend doing.
•Remove the selvages from the fabric. This means taking off anywhere from ½" to ¾" (1.27 to 1.91cm) of fabric from the edges. Once you remove the selvages, you have a little less fabric to use for piecing.
•Pre-washing and protecting against color bleeding are not required, but it may save you heartache and disappointment later when/if you need to launder a completed project. Pre-washing, while not absolutely necessary, has it’s advantages. Washing and drying your fabric will take care of any shrinkage and it will remove any excess dye that may remain in your fabric. Taking care of these two concerns at the beginning will alleviate the issues after you’ve completed your project and laundered it for the first time. No need to worry about color-fastness or shrinkage!
•An alternative to pre-washing your fabric is to test for color-fastness. It’s a good idea when your fabric has a strong color, such as reds, deep purples, greens, or blues. Place a small piece of fabric in very hot water for about 15 minutes. If no color has bled into the water, you can consider it color-fast.
•If the color has transferred to the water, you know that this fabric will bleed when it gets wet. You can “set” the color in your fabric by using a laundry product that actually “catches” the color that may come out of your fabric. Quilt shops may carry a product used to set dyes, as well.
Whether you are new to quiltmaking or you are an experienced quilter, do your research on battings.
Wall hangings will probably never be washed. On the other hand, a quilt that will be used as a covering will need to be laundered at some point.
Batting comes in many different sizes and thickness, and different fiber content plays a huge roll in making a right choice for your project. Be sure to read the instructions on the batting to see if it is appropriate for the method of quilting you have chosen. On the label for the batting, you will find useful information such as how far apart the quilting should be, how much the batting will shrink when washed, and whether it is good for hand quilting or machine quilting.
There will be some shrinkage in the batting when you wash your project, so it will have a different appearance after washing. To see what your completed project may look like after it is washed, make up two quilted samples with your batting choice. Leave one unwashed, and machine wash and dry the other sample. Mark each test sample with the name of the batting, its fiber content, and whether it has been washed or not. Keep a collection of batting samples so you’ll be able to choose the right batting for your future projects.
Here are a couple of batting samples; the unwashed one is on the left and the washed one is on the right. You can see the shrinkage between the two pieces and how much the quilting was “scrunched” up by washing and drying it.
Marking Tools, Rulers, and Templates
Marking tools, rulers, and templates . . . there are so many, all with different characteristics.
Always test your marking tools on small pieces of fabric from your project; they often act differently on different fabrics. You can determine how well you can see the marks and experiment with instructions for removal. In some markers, heat or detergents may permanently set the lines. Some come off in the washing process, some are easily removed with steam, and some, like a chalk marker, are simply brushed off. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for removal. If you are not able to completely remove the marks from your sample, select a different marker.
Templates are made by many manufacturers and usually perform very specific tasks. If you need a specific template for a project, ask your local quilt shop to recommend favorites. They are often willing to give you a demonstration on the use of a template. I used the Tri-Recs Tool™ Triangle Ruler by Darlene Zimmerman and Joy Hoffman to make star points. It’s easy to use and gives you the option to make up to a 6½" (16.51cm) star point.
I created paper templates using this commercial template. You can make all star points with the templates beginning on page. I’ve also included a sashing strip template for the Star Crossing quilt on page. Use the instructions for making and using paper templates on page.
There is an abundance of rulers and templates available online and at your local fabric store. I suggest using the same brand for all your straight-edged rulers. That way, you know you will maintain accuracy when changing from one straight edge to another.
In quilt-making today, we are lucky because we have many shortcuts that can help make things faster and, sometimes, more accurate.
One of the shortcuts that I use frequently is the making of strip sets. Strip sets are strips of fabric that are cut from the width of fabrics, sewn together on the length of the strip, and then cut into smaller, usable segments. Sewing strip sets is faster and more accurate than cutting up smaller pieces, sewing them together, and pressing them. It minimizes the chance of the fabrics shifting as you start and stop sewing.
To create a strip set, cut strips from the width of fabric. Sew the long strips together and press the seams open or to the darkest fabrics; whichever you prefer. Trim the selvages off the ends so that you have a straight edge to start cutting from. Cut off sections the width needed for the units you are making.
Strip sets are used in almost all of the patterns in the book, but there are many more shortcuts that can be used in other piecing techniques. If you are uncertain about a technique or looking for a shortcut, you can easily find many useful “how-to” videos on different topics on quilt shop websites and sites like YouTube. The best part is that you can view these as many times as needed until you are comfortable with the technique.
This example shows the use of the Templates A and B from the Starry Night pattern, page, and Templates 1 and 2 for the stars in Star Chain, page. They work the same way but are a different size.
1 Cut outside of the solid lines of the paper templates, and then use a glue stick to adhere them to pieces of template plastic. Cut through both layers (paper and plastic), clipping off the small corner near the narrow end of the template. This is very important when aligning pieces within a project.
2 Two layers of fabric placed right sides together (RST) are used to cut the fabric for a star point. For this step-by-step, align the bottom of Template A with the bottom of the fabric strips. Cut out one template shape to make a left- and right-side star point. The star points will be mirror images of one another.
3 Rotate Template A, placing the template bottom on the top of the fabric strip, and cut another shape. Continue rotating the template and cut out the shapes. By cutting with the two strips RST, you will always end up with one shape that is the reverse of the other.
4 Keep the (2) shapes separated and marked.
5 To cut the middle triangles of the star point units, use Template B. Align the template with the edges of the strip of fabric and cut out (1) template shape.
6 Rotate the template on the strip and align one edge with the previous cut. Continue rotating and cutting the template to make additional shapes.
7 To assemble the star points, place a star point and a reverse star point on either side of a background star triangle so that they form a square.
8 Lay one of the star points on top of background triangle and use the trimmed corner to align the (2) pieces. Sew with a ¼" (0.64cm) seam. Press the seams open or to the dark side of the fabric. NOTE: To reduce bulk, press the seams open.
9 Sew a star point to the opposite side in the same manner. Press the seams open or to the dark side of the fabric.
Trimming the Salute to Service Blocks
This example shows you how to make sure your blocks are trimmed to the recommended measurement.
1 To square up these pieces, place a square ruler so that the top and right edges of the ruler are 2¼" (5.72cm) from where the (3) fabrics meet.
2 Trim the fabric from the right and top edges.
3 Turn the block so that the newly trimmed edges hit the 4½" (11.43cm) lines on the ruler. Again, trim the remaining fabric from the right and top edges for a perfect 4½" (11.43cm) block.
Layering and Basting the Quilt
The process of finishing your quilt involves layering the quilt top with the batting and backing in preparation for quilting.
In order to do this, you must decide on your method of quilting, hand or machine quilt, and the quilting design you wish to use. Once you have determined how you will quilt the piece, you can choose the type of batting that will work best for your quilt. (See page, Batting.)
Depending on your chosen quilting method and your quilting design, you may need to mark the design on the quilt top. If you have chosen to quilt in the ditch (stitching close to the seams), or will be doing an all-over quilting pattern with a free-motion technique, marking may not be necessary.
If you do need to mark the design, using a removable marking tool is a good idea. Be sure to test the marker you have chosen on a small scrap of your fabrics to be sure that you can see it well and remove the marking lines when you are finished. (See page, Marking Tools, Rulers, and Templates.)
If you will be quilting the quilt yourself, lay the backing wrong side up on a flat surface, smoothing it out as much as possible. Start with a piece of tape in the middle of one edge of the quilt backing, taping it to the surface. Move to the opposite side, smoothing the fabric as you go. Be careful not to stretch the fabric, just make it smooth and flat. Put another piece of tape in the middle of the opposite edge. Repeat this process with the other two sides. Continue working in this fashion from the center of the backing, moving out to the sides and corners until your backing is flat and snug, but not stretched. (If you are working on a carpeted floor, anchor the backing by sticking pins through the edge of the backing right into the carpeting, and anchoring in the same manner as if you were working on a hard surface.)
Before layering the batting, allow it to relax for a day by laying it out flat, or put it in the dryer for few minutes to help smooth out any wrinkles and folds. Center the batting on top of the anchored batting and flatten it out as much as possible. Now you can layer the quilt top onto the backing and batting.
Center the quilt top on the batting. If you plan to hand-quilt the project, baste the project with long lengths of thread every 4"–6" (10.16–15.24cm). Stitch in both directions, forming a grid. I suggest that you use thread that will contrast with the quilt top to make it easy to see. Work from the center of the quilt toward the outside edges, stitching in all directions.
If you plan to quilt your project on your home sewing machine, you will need to pin baste the layers together. Place #2, rust-proof safety pins about every 3"–4" (7.62–10.16cm) across the entire quilt. You will need to pull pins out as you go if they are too close to the presser foot.
Quilt the layers by hand or machine using thread that is appropriate to your quilting design and method. Again, read the label on your thread to be sure you are using a thread that is compatible with your quilting method and sewing machine. (Quilting thread is heavier than machine thread and should not be used in your machine.)
Tips
•Cut the backing fabric and the batting about 4" (10.16cm) larger than the quilt top on all sides. For smaller wall hangings, 2" (5.08cm) may be sufficient.
•Press the backing fabric first to remove any wrinkles and get it as smooth as possible.
•If your backing has been pieced, press your seams to one side to make a stronger seam.
•Remove any threads or other debris (pet hair can be a big issue) from your quilt top and backing. These threads can shadow through lighter fabrics and spoil the look of your beautiful quilt.
•Press your quilt top and make sure that all seams are as flat as possible.
A double-fold binding is one of the most common ways to finish a quilt. This method covers the edges of your quilt with two layers of fabric, giving the edge a nice, durable finish.
Measure all four sides of the quilt top to determine the amount of binding needed. Cut enough strips of fabric to completely go around this measurement with at least 12–15" (30.48–38.10cm) (or more) in excess. Whenever possible, cut the strips across the width of the fabric from the fold to the selvages, to make the binding a little easier to handle. I cut my binding strips to 2¼" (5.72cm) for the binding but 2½" (6.35cm) strips are a common size used by many quilters.
1 Sew the strips together to create one continuous binding strip. Join the strips using diagonal seams. With right sides together, lay the strips out at a right angle and mark a line from one intersection to the other, as shown.
2 Place a couple of pins on either side of the line to keep the pieces in place. Sew on the marked line.
3 Continue adding strips in this manner. Trim one end of the long strip, using the 45° line on a ruler.
4 Fold the long strip of binding in half, lengthwise, with wrong sides together, (WST), and press.
5 Align the raw edges of the binding with the edge of the quilt top. Begin attaching the binding to the quilt, with the angled cut end at least 10"–12" (25.40–30.48cm) from a corner. Take a couple backstitches to secure the thread.
6 As you approach a corner, stop ¼" (0.64cm) away with the needle in the down position. Lift the presser foot and pivot the quilt 45°. The presser foot should be facing away from the corner. Sew to the corner, cut the threads, and remove the quilt from the machine.
7 Fold the binding back, aligning the binding along the straight line of the quilt and using the 45° sewn line as a guide.
8 Fold the binding back down on itself, aligning the raw edge of the binding with the edge of the quilt top on the next side.
9 Place the quilt top back under the presser foot and sew to the next corner. Repeat step 6–8 at each corner. Stop within 10"–15" (25.40–38.10cm) of the beginning of the sewn binding.
10 To join the ends of the binding, lay the quilt on a flat surface. Open up the end of binding and smooth it so it lays flat on the quilt top. Open the beginning end, the end with the angled cut, and smooth it out on top of the ending. This helps determine where to place the joining seam. Secure with a pin or two to keep it in place.
11 Making sure that the quilt and binding pieces are completely flat, make a mark on the ending binding piece, along the angled cut, as shown. Remove the pins, pull aside the angled end of the binding. and align the 45° line of a ruler along the edge of the strip.
12 Move the edge of the ruler ½" (1.27cm) from the first mark. Make sure that the new line is marked in the same direction as the cut on the starting end. Cut the strip at the new marked diagonal line.
13 Match the 45° cuts from each end, placing right sides together. Pin the pieces together.
14 Sew the ends together using a ¼" (0.64cm) seam. Press the seam open. Refold the binding in half and realign along the edge of the quilt. Sew the binding in place to finish attaching it to the quilt.
Your quilt is not complete until you add a label.
Identify the name of the quilt, who the quilt is for, if it is to be a gift, start and/or finish dates, your name, the recipient’s name, the occasion (such as a birthday or anniversary), and any information that might be important to remember about the quilt.
“Crossing Boundaries”
An original quilt designed, pieced and machine quilted by Sandy Berg for Raspberry Bramble Designs
Pattern # RBD105
Started November 2018
Completed December 2018
