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Basic Piecework Techniques

LESSON 1

Making a Simple Square Quilt Block

Using the “nine patch quilt” method of connecting nine squares, these instructions show you how to sew straight sides together, and cover the fundamentals of hand quilting, including pin basting and using the “backstitch” technique for securing the thread at the beginning and ending of piecework.

★ Refer to page 82 for drafting pattern pieces and marking.

★ For the lesson, colorful thread was used for better visibility. For your actual projects, coordinating thread is recommended. Hues of gray and beige tend to blend in well with most fabric colors.

★ Measurements are given in inches and metrics; the metric measurements are more precise.

1 Trace the pattern piece on the back of fabrics A and B. Add a ⅜ in (1 cm) seam allowance and cut (extra seam allowance will be trimmed later).

2 With right sides together and the markings aligned, insert pin at the corner of the marking from the fabric B side.

3 Hold the two fabrics in your left hand and insert pin along marked line on fabric A, pulling through to the marked line on the fabric B side.

4 Because the corner markings were aligned at the beginning insertion point, the markings on both sides match up perfectly.

5 Repeat above steps on other side.

6 Without knotting the end of the thread, sew one stitch on the line slightly away from the corner marking. Remove pin, and sew another stitch up to the corner.

7 Pull needle, leaving a thread tail about ⅜ in (1 cm) long. Stitch over the two previous “backstitches” to secure.

8 Place needle tip on marked line, and push through with the thimble on your right middle finger. Hold the fabric between your left thumb and index finger.

9 Hold the fabric and pin between left thumb and index. When you lift your left hand, the needle tip protrudes slightly to the back side; when the hand is lowered, the needle tip protrudes to the front side.

10 As you lower the left hand, gently push the needle with your right middle finger. Gather the fabric between your left thumb and index finger to continue pushing the needle through.

11 Repeat steps 9 and 10 continuously all the way to the end of the marking for a straight stitch line. At the end, pull the needle all the way up.

12 Position the needle on the thimble on your right middle finger, and push the needle through the fabric.

13 Firmly hold the pieces where you began stitching, then smooth out any bunching by sandwiching the fabrics between your left fingers and lightly sliding leftwards.

14 Use 2 backstitches as shown in step 6 to finish stitching. Without knotting, leave a thread tail of about ⅜ in (1 cm) and cut.

15 The stitches are on the marking line on the back side (side A) as well. Trim the seam allowance ¼ in (0.6 cm) from the stitch line.

When joining the pieced squares, pay particular attention to lining up the corners neatly. If there is extra fabric bulk or if the stitches are misaligned, the following steps will show you how to use an alternating stitch at the corners (=four stops) to secure them and fix the shifting. Sew up to just before the corner, check to see if the corners are lining up and if so, backstitch and continue stitching (don’t sew through the seam allowance).

About the piecework seam allowance

For this lesson, the fabric pieces are initially drafted with a ⅜ in (1 cm) seam allowance which is then trimmed to ¼ in (0.6 cm) once sewn together. As you become accustomed to piecework, feel free to start with a ¼ in (0.6 cm) seam allowance.

16 To join multiple pieces, repeat steps 2 ~ 15. Position fabrics A and B in a checkered pattern by joining three rows of three squares pieced together.

17 Place two rows right sides together, match up corner markings and baste with pins (①~④ indicates pinning order). Due to the bulk of the extra seam allowances, inserting the pins with the tip facing upward is easier for ③ and ④.

18 The seam allowances for ③ and ④ should lay in opposite directions on the front and back to reduce bulk before pin basting. Press the seam allowances in the direction of the arrows.

19 Repeat steps 6 ~ 10 to join pieces. Stop sewing about one stitch away from the corner marking and pull needle through.

20 Insert needle into the corner marking of the wrong side of front fabric A through to the right side (in the photo, the seam allowance of fabric B is flipped over for a clearer view).

21 Proceed to the corner marking of the back fabric A (the needle will be inserted diagonally from the front fabric A to back fabric A. Make sure to avoid stitching other pieces), pull needle through.

22 From the existing position of the needle on the back fabric A, insert needle slightly into the seam allowance and through to the same spot on fabric B (see illustration on right).

Dots indicate where needles will go in and out (slightly into the seam allowance from the corner markings).

23 The needle from step 22 pulled through (photo shows back fabric B on top).

24 Insert needle into the corner marking of back fabric B.

25 Continue to front fabric B corner marking and pull needle through (needle will be inserted diagonally from front fabric B to back fabric B).

26 Needle pulled through from step 25 (now the front side is shown). The thread is coming out of the front fabric B corner marking. Continue stitching.

27 Sew the corner sections as shown in steps 19 ~ 26. Backstitch at the end as shown in step 14.

28 The pieces sewn together in step 27 opened up. Repeat previous steps to join the next row to create a nine patch quilt block.

Basic Piecework Techniques

LESSON 2

Making a Triangle Quilt Block

This lesson features the Tree of Life quilt block pattern to join same-facing right angle isosceles triangle pieces. To prevent unwanted spaces where the corners intersect, the four-stop method will be used (see steps 8–12). Make sure to avoid accidentally sewing extra fabric pieces.

★ Refer to page 82 for drafting pattern pieces and marking.

★ Refer to page 10 for pin basting, backstitching and piecework sewing basics.

1 Trace the pattern piece on the wrong side of fabrics A and B. Add ⅜ in (1 cm) seam allowance and cut (seam allowance will be trimmed later).

2 With right sides of fabrics A and B together, pin the two corners of the longest side. Add a pin between the two corner pins. Align the markings and pin as precisely as possible.

3 Sew from the beginning to the end of the marking on the longest side. Backstitch (2 stitches). Trim seam allowance ¼ in (0.6 cm) from stitch line.

4 Piecework from step 3 pressed open. The sewn side is on the bias so take care not to stretch the fabric. For now, press seam allowance to the side.

5 Repeat previous steps to make 9 sets. Join three sets together per row. Then join three rows.

6 Place two rows right sides together, align markings and seam allowances, then pin in place (①~④ indicate pinning order; arrows indicate pinning direction).

7 As in step 3, sew from beginning to end of marking, starting with the right corner and ending about one stitch shy of the other corner (backstitch to adjust if stitch lengths don’t match up).

8 Shown: stitched almost to the corner. Make sure not to sew the seam allowance from the back side (it helps to hold the seam allowance out of the way with your finger).

9 Proceed to insert needle diagonally into the left front of the corner marking on fabric B. Avoid stitching other pieces. Pull thread through and continue stitching.

10 From its corner marking position on the left backside of fabric A, insert needle slightly into the seam allowance and through to the right back side of fabric A at the same spot (see illustration above).

11 Insert needle into the corner marking of right back side of fabric A (photo shows right back side of fabric A on the left).

12 Insert needle into corner marking of fabric B left front. Make sure to avoid stitching other pieces. Pull needle through and continue stitching.

13 Refer to steps 8–12 to sew the corner sections. Backstitch as shown in step 3 to finish stitching and cut thread.

14 Join another row. If the corners are aligned, skip the four-stop method, backstitch once and continue stitching.

15 Complete.

Basic Piecework Techniques

LESSON 3

Making a Hexagon Quilt Block

This basic pattern involves joining seven hexagons. Other than the first and last pieces, the pieces are joined by layering and sewing two sides without cutting the thread. To join the hexagon rows, repeat steps 2 and 3. To fill the spaces between the hexagons with triangles, refer to steps 4–7.

★ Refer to page 82 for drafting pattern pieces and marking.

★ Refer to page 10 for pin basting, backstitching and piecework sewing basics.

1 Trace the pattern piece on the wrong side of fabrics A and B. Add ⅜ in (1 cm) seam allowance and cut (seam allowance will be trimmed later).

2 Place right sides of fabic A (this will be A-1) and the center fabric piece (B) together. Align the markings, then pin diagonally on two sides as shown.

3 Sew from the beginning to the end of the marking on one side. Backstitch (2 stitches). Trim seam allowance ¼ in (0.6cm) from stitch line.

4 Press open the piece from step 3, place A-1 and A-2 right sides together and pin.

5 Sew from the right edge of A-2 in the same way as step 3. Stop sewing about one stitch shy of the left edge, then pull needle through the corner marking (where the pin was positioned).

6 Place B and A-2 right sides together (A-1 will be folded in half on the right side). Align the sides.

7 Pin from the left corner marking at an angle. Stitch along the top horizontal marking.

8 Sew up to the corner marking, then backstitch (2 stitches) and cut thread. Shown: three pieces joined.

9 A close up of corner section. Arrange the seam allowances in an overlapping windmill formation. Press the other seam allowances to one side.

10 Front. To join the remaining four A pieces, repeat steps 4–7 (place an A piece on sewn A piece with right sides together, and sew one side. Then place the new A piece on B with right sides together and sew one side).

11 Finally, sew the side of A-1 and A-6 in the way shown in step 3.

Dealing with Seam Allowances

Press the seam allowances to the side that best allows the front to appear smooth and even. Where the seam allowances gather at the corners, fan them out in a windmill formation and press. When rows are joined, some corner seam allowances may get twisted and difficult to fan out. In such cases press down as close to the corner and trim any bulky parts of the seam allowance.

Basic Piecework Techniques

LESSON 4

Making a Quilt Block with Curved Pieces

Joining curved pieces is easier with smaller seam allowances. Remember to add the markings where pieces will be joined. To press the seam allowances of silk pieces (as well as wool fabrics), instead of using the iron with the steam function on, place the piece on a barely damp towel and use a dry iron.

★ Refer to page 82 for drafting pattern pieces and marking.

★ Refer to page 10 for pin basting, backstitching and piecework sewing basics.

1 Trace A and B pattern pieces onto the back of the fabric (make sure to add marks where A and B will be joined). Add seam allowances: ⅛ in (0.3 cm) for the curved section and ¼ in (0.7 cm) for the rest of the piece

2 Place A and B right sides together. At the center of the marking on the curved section of A, insert pin and push through the same spot on B.

3 Align the pieces with the right angles facing the same direction, then position the pin from the previous step with the tip facing the corner and pin in place.

4 Insert a pin in the curved corner marking of A to the curved corner marking of B.

5 Align the straight side markings of A and B, then insert the pin along the marking on B to the marking on A.

6 Curved corner pinning complete. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for other corner.

7 Add two more pins as shown (①~⑤ indicates pinning order).

8 With A facing up, sew along curved marking (placing the convex side of the curve towards you may make sewing easier). Use backstitching with two stitches instead of a knot.

9 Sewing of curve complete. When smoothing out the fabric with your fingers after stitching, take care not to stretch out the curved section.

10 First, move the seam allowance out of the way and press along the curved seam on B.

11 Repeat step 10 on side A and press along the curved seam with the seam allowance out of the way.

12 With the seam allowance towards A, press edge of curve firmly. Repeat on other edge.

13 With right side facing up, press. Make sure not to stretch fabric as you press.

Complete. Make as many quilt blocks as necessary and use the method from page 11 to join the blocks.

Depending on how the 1 are combined, an infinite number of patterns can be created. The pattern shown is called Drunkard’s Path. Refer to pages 46 and 46 for details.

Basic Piecework Techniques

LESSON 5

Making a Diamond (Lemon Star) Quilt Block

This lesson shows how to join diamond-shaped pieces into a star pattern. The same instructions apply to parallelogram pieces. Please refer to the Triangle Quilt Block lesson on page 12 to sew the sharp points of the diamond pieces together. For steps 10–12, the technique of moving the basting pin as you sew along the side markings is called “intarsia.”

★ Refer to page 82 for drafting pattern pieces and marking.

★ Refer to page 10 for pin basting, backstitching and piecework sewing basics.

1 Trace the pattern piece on the wrong side of the fabric and cut 4 pieces each of the following: diamond A, diamond B, square and triangle. Add ⅜ in (1 cm) seam allowance; seam allowances will be trimmed later).

2 Place diamond pieces A and B right sides together and sew one side, following the marking. Start and end with backstitching (2 stitches). Where the points meet, take care not to sew beyond the marking into the seam allowance. Trim seam allowance to ¼ in (0.6 cm) from the stitch line. Make 4 sets. Press seam allowance toward the same color for each set (shown: seam allowance pressed toward B).

3 Join two of the piecework from step 2. Repeat. Now you have the upper and lower halves of the star. For the section where all the sharp points gather, refer to step 8–12 of constructing the Triangle Quilt Block on page 12.

4 Once the halves have been joined, check the center for any holes or shifting of fabric and fix accordingly.

5 Thread a needle and insert the needle with the eye end pointed up from the underside of the center hole (to prevent accidentally catching any fabric). Leave a rather long thread tail on the wrong side.

6 Carefully scoop the pointed tips of each piece with the needle, one at a time. Insert the needle as close to the tip for all the pieces.

7 Once the needle has been inserted into all 8 pieces, insert the eye end of the needle through the center hole again and pull through the wrong side.

8 Pull the needle and the tail of the thread (from step 5) together to tighten and close up the center hole. Double knot the threads and trim.

9 Front side. The center looks clean and sharp. Press the seam allowance to one side, and fan out the center in a windmill formation.

10 Join a square and a triangle piece to the star from step 9. With right sides together, place square piece on star. Align the top marking of the square to one of the diamond markings of the star. Pin in place.

11 Start stitching from the outer corner towards the center (refer to step 2). Stop sewing about one stitch from the end of the marking, then pull needle up through the corner marking towards the center.

12 Align the markings for the next side to be sewn. Pin at the left corner marking. Sew side. Start and end with backstitching (2 stitches) and cut thread.

13 Join the triangle piece in the same manner as steps 10–12. Move the pin as you sew each side. Repeat previous steps to join all the square and triangle pieces.

Complete. Trim seam allowance ¼ in (0.6 cm) from stitch line. Press seam allowance to one side, and fan out center section in a windmill formation.