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ОглавлениеIndian Ingredients Explained
In this section, I explain the basics of the frequently used ingredients in this book—how and where to buy items, how to store them and more. I have made every effort to use easy-to-find spices and ingredients so that you do not have to make special trips to ethnic markets. However, there are a few ingredients such as fresh curry leaves and the different varieties of Indian lentils that might be hard to find at your local grocery store. Start by checking the international section in your grocery store for a greater selection and better prices. Natural food stores and gourmet grocery stores can also be good places to look for Indian ingredients. You can even purchase items online or from Indian stores that will ship to your door. (See Resource Guide, page 142, for a listing of such stores.) If you’re lucky enough to have an Indian market nearby, shop there for one-stop economical shopping.
Basmati rice (Basmati chawal) Basmati rice is long grained, fragrant rice used in Indian cooking. It is now commonly available in most grocery stores in small packages or you can buy big burlap sacks of Basmati rice at ethnic stores, which is more economical if you cook rice often. Rice can be stored in a jar, plastic bag or in the burlap bag it came in for at least six months in your pantry. It is a good idea to thoroughly wash the rice before cooking it to clean it and remove any starchy residue so that the final result is less sticky. In general, the rule of thumb to cook Basmati rice is to use twice the amount of water to rice. One cup of uncooked rice yields about three cups of cooked rice.
Bay leaf (tej patta) Bay leaves come fresh or dried but it is common to use dried bay leaves in Indian cooking especially if one does not cook with them too often. I use the dried leaf to add a sweet and woody scent to rice dishes such as Vegetable Rice Pilaf (page 75) and Chicken Biryani Rice (page 72). When cooking, the leaf is added to heated oil or butter to release its aromas. You may leave the bay leaf in your dish for presentation purposes, but with its sharp dried edges, it is best to avoid eating it.
Black pepper (ground and whole peppercorns) (kali mirch) Pepper is a berry that grows in grape-like clusters on the pepper plant. The berries can become green, black or white peppercorns, depending on how ripe the berry is when it is plucked and how it is processed. Black peppercorns arise when the almost ripe berry is picked and then dried until it shrivels and turns black. White peppercorns arise when the fully ripe berry is picked, its skin removed, and then dried. Black peppercorns have the strongest flavor whereas the white ones are milder and are used when you do not want the black pepper to show in food, such as white sauces. The green berries are unripe when plucked and are commonly preserved in brine or pickled for a fresh taste. It is common in India to buy whole black peppercorns and then to crush them using a mortar and pestle. For everyday cooking, I use the finely ground black pepper that comes in a tin but for some dishes like Vegetable Rice Pilaf (page 75), I prefer to use whole black peppercorns for stronger flavor. If you prefer to use freshly ground whole peppercorns rather than the pre-ground pepper, you can do this throughout the book whenever ground black pepper is called for.
Cardamoms (elaichi) Cardamom pods are the aromatic fruit of the cardamom plant and they are plucked when they are still unripe and then dried. Cardamom are available in small green pods with intensely flavored small back seeds inside, which is what I use. There are also big black pods, which I used to call a “roach” when I was a kid! If you shop in ethnic markets, you may also see small white cardamoms, which are simply the green ones that have been bleached for aesthetic purposes and result in a milder flavor. Cardamoms are used to flavor Garam Masala (page 36), rice and meat dishes and add a special touch to tea and desserts. To open a pod to release the flavorful seeds, place it on a cutting board. Place a small knife on its side over the top of the cardamom and press on the knife to crack it open. You can also tap on the pod with a rolling pin to break it open and then pry it apart with your fingers. If I am just cooking for my family, I simply bite the cardamom pod between my teeth until it cracks open and then I pry it apart with my finger. Cardamom pods also make good breath fresheners. Simply pop a whole pod in your mouth and chew on it and eventually you can swallow everything.
Carom seeds (ajwain) Also called “bishop’s weed,” these tiny brown seeds are a great natural remedy for an upset, gassy tummy. Even to this day, when I complain of an upset tummy, my mother will tell me to take a teaspoon full of carom seeds with water. I like to use carom seeds when cooking seafood dishes. The seeds look small and harmless, but if you bite into them, they release a peppery punch, though they are not spicy. Carom seeds can be found at Indian markets and are more commonly known by their Hindi name ajwain. If you cannot find them, you can use dried thyme leaves as a substitute but it will not have the exact sharp flavor of carom seeds. Do not confuse it with caraway seeds.
Chapati flour (chapati ka atta) This is a finely milled whole wheat flour that is used to make Indian flatbreads. Some bags of Indian chapati flour say “100% whole wheat flour” on them. If you compare that flour to American whole wheat flour, you might notice the American one is darker. This is due to different crops of harvested wheat that have slight variations in color, and also variations in the milling process. If you do not have chapati flour, in general, you can use a 1:1 whole wheat to all-purpose flour (white flour that is non self-rising called maida in Hindi) ratio, although sometimes I use a 3:1 or 4:1 ratio ratio of whole wheat to all-purpose flour if that is easier to measure for a recipe. Chapati flour can be stored in an airtight jar in your pantry up to three months. Because chapati flour has natural oil in it, it can go rancid if kept over three months. Keeping it in the freezer can prolong the life of the flour for at least up to six months.
Chili peppers, green (fresh, whole) (sabut hari mirch) There are hundreds of varieties of chili peppers, varying in length, thickness and spice level. Generally, the smaller the pepper, the hotter it is because there are more seeds proportionally and the heat comes from the seeds. In Indian cooking, many types of chili peppers are used but I use the spicy hot bird’s eye chili pepper (also sometimes referred to as the “Thai chili pepper”). The bird’s eye chili pepper is thin and can be found in ethnic markets and some American grocery stores. You can also use fresh chili de arbol, Serrano chili pepper or the easy-to-find jalapeño pepper. Slicing or halving the chili pepper exposes the seeds and allows it to release more flavor and heat. When green chili peppers are left on the plant long enough to fully ripen, they turn red and are then plucked and dried for use in cooking. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling a chili pepper so you do not irritate your eyes, nose or lips if you touch them afterward.
Chili peppers, red (dried, whole) (sabut lal mirch) Red chili peppers are green chili peppers that have been allowed to fully ripen and turn red on the plant. Afterwhich they are plucked and dried. Because the dried bird’s eye chili pepper is not typically available in regular grocery stores, I use the easy-to-find dried red chili peppers of the chili de arbol variety, which are usually found in small clear bags in the spice section or the Mexican international section of a regular grocery store. Sometimes these dried peppers are even found in the fresh produce section. When cooking with dried red chili peppers, I sometimes first dry roast them (See "Roasting and Grinding Whole Spices," page 16.) to release their flavors. I also sometimes tear these chili peppers before tossing them in the hot pan to expose the seeds, which release more heat into the dish. Usually, dried red chili peppers come with the stems removed but if they are not, just tear them off. Different types of dried red chili peppers are also ground into a fine red pepper and used frequently in Indian cooking. In American grocery stores, the closest substitute is ground red pepper (cayenne). Dried red chili peppers can be stored for at least up to six months in an airtight jar in your pantry.
Cilantro See “Coriander leaves,” page 21.
Cinnamon (dalchini) Cinnamon sticks are intensely flavored woody rolls of inner bark from the cinnamon tree. When using cinnamon sticks, it is important to use just a small piece because it gives a very strong flavor. You can break a cinnamon stick with your hands but to get smaller pieces, lay the stick on a cutting board and hit it with a rolling pin to break it up. Ground cinnamon is also used in Indian cooking—from meat dishes to spiced teas and vegetable pickles. When making Garam Masala (page 36), I first dry roast the cinnamon stick to develop its flavor more and then grind it.
STORAGE AND FOOD HANDLING TIPS When purchasing ingredients, try to buy the smallest packages available so items can be used quickly and stay fresh. You can store all of your individual spices and rice in airtight jars in a cool, dry place and out of direct sun, such as your kitchen pantry, for up to at least six months. However, lentils and flours are best kept up to three months in the pantry to ensure they are in their optimal state. Flours may also be frozen up to six months. Roasted and ground spice blends, such as Biryani Masala (page 72), lose their flavors more quickly and are also best if kept up to three months only. When handling spices, rice, lentils and flour, always use dry hands and utensils when removing them from or adding them to storage containers.
Citrus (nimbu) Citrus fruit, such as green limes and yellow lemons, are used commonly in Indian cooking to add zing to dishes and also to make paneer, a homemade Indian cheese. Limes tend to be less expensive than lemons, and they are easily found, so I use them. But if you have lemons on hand, you can use them instead. Limes come in different varieties and sizes from the small key lime to the common lime, and all are usually smaller than lemons. If limes are left on the tree long enough, they will eventually turn from green to yellow (but they are still limes!), but they are usually plucked before this happens. To add confusion to the lime/lemon discussion, limes are sometimes called “lemons” in India, but in the end it does not matter if you use a lemon or lime when making the recipes, or what variety you use. If a recipe calls for the juice of one lime and you’d like to substitute lemon juice, use the juice of one-half lemon. And if you use key limes, you can use two of them to equal one lime. Before cutting open a lemon or lime, if you press on it while rolling it back and forth a few times on the counter, it will loosen the fibers inside and allow the juice to come out easier and in greater quantity. Then cut the citrus in half crosswise and squeeze it over a small sieve to catch the seeds or use a citrus squeezer to squeeze out the juice. You can keep citrus fruits in your refrigerator for up to two weeks. Unused portions of lemons or limes should be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to three days.
Cloves (long) Cloves have a very distinct flavor and aroma and should be used sparingly so as not to overpower a dish. A clove is a small brown woody piece with a pronged, rounded tip, which almost resembles a tiny nail. Cloves are grown on tropical evergreen clove trees and are actually the unopened flower buds that grow in clusters. After the green buds are fully grown and just about to open, they are picked off the tree and sun-dried until they become dark brown and woody. Cloves are sold whole or ground, but I prefer to buy the whole cloves so that I can grind them when I need to make Garam Masala (page 36) and Biryani Masala (page 72). I also use whole cloves to flavor Vegetable Rice Pilaf (page 75).
Coconut milk (nariyal ka dood) Coconut milk is extracted from the white pulp of coconuts. It is not the coconut water or “juice,” which is the liquid that you can hear when shaking a coconut and that leaks out when you crack it. Coconut water is clear and thin and should be quite sweet. The milk, instead, is white and creamy and makes an excellent rich base for coconut curry dishes, providing a hint of sweetness. In India, people traditionally extract coconut milk from fresh coconuts, but this can be a lengthy process. I simply buy canned coconut milk, which is available in the Thai international section of grocery stores. Coconut milk is somewhat fattening; a light version is available, which I personally think is a suitable substitute. Coconut milk curries are common in the southern coastal regions of India, where coconut trees are commonly grown in people’s backyards. Unopened canned coconut milk can be kept for months in your pantry but keep an eye on the expiration date. If you open a can and have leftover coconut milk, transfer it to a glass or plastic container, cover it and refrigerate it for no more than three days.
Coriander leaves (cilantro) (dhania ka patta) Fresh coriander leaves, commonly referred to as “cilantro” in America, are used in Indian cooking both as a garnish and as an ingredient. Bunches of fresh coriander leaves are easy to find in the produce section of grocery stores. It keeps just about a week in the refrigerator before it starts discoloring and wilting. I store the bunch in a plastic bag in the refrigerator and tear off a handful or chop off a small quantity when I need to use some. Since there is no need to destem the leaves, you may chop the leaves and stems together. Coriander leaves should be thoroughly washed before being chopped.
Clockwise from top: coriander seeds, cinnamon stick, cumin seeds, cardamom pods, black peppercorns and cloves.
Coriander seeds (dhania) (ground and whole seeds) These are the seeds that grow into the coriander plant, which gives us the fragrant coriander leaves also known as “cilantro.” The seeds have a light and sweet citrus, almost orange-like undertone that comes out more when they are roasted and ground. I use ground coriander and the whole seeds, both of which are available in the spice section of grocery stores. You may grind whole seeds as needed for a fresher and stronger flavor but to make things easy, I simply use pre-ground coriander. Whole roasted coriander seeds are one of the main spices in my mother-in-law’s Garam Masala (page 36). (See "Roasting and Grinding Whole Spices," page 16.)
Cumin seeds (jeera) These tiny brown-colored oval seeds are a must-have in my spice box. Cumin flavors rice and many other dishes amazingly well. To release their flavor, cumin seeds are often added to heated oil and incorporated directly into a dish or they are dry-roasted and then ground. When they’re added to heated oil, they will quickly darken. To keep the seeds from burning and turning black, you must quickly add the next ingredient. Luckily, since cumin seeds are usually introduced in the first steps of cooking a dish, if you do burn them you can just discard them along with the oil and try again. This spice provides a whole different level of flavor when it is dry-roasted and ground. It can be added to meat marinades as well as to Three Vegetable Raita (page 29). (See "Roasting and Grinding Whole Spices," page 16.)
Curry leaves (kari patta) Fresh curry leaves have a distinct fragrance and are frequently used in southern Indian cooking. Though adding curry leaves to a dish will add another level of exotic flavor, the recipes in this book are still delicious without them. Because curry leaves are typically only found in ethnic grocery stores, I have made them an optional ingredient in my recipes. Many Indians who cook with curry leaves have a curry plant in their garden so fresh fragrant leaves are always on hand! Curry leaves can be left in the cooked dish and may be eaten, if desired. If you do buy fresh curry leaves, put them in a plastic bag and refrigerate them for up to one week, or until they start to dry up, whichever comes first. Wash and pat them dry before adding to hot oil to prevent splatters.
Essences, rose and pandanus (gulab and kewra) Essences are concentrated liquid extracts derived from various foods or plants that add magic to desserts and can be thought of as flavorful, edible perfumes for food. They are similar to other common extracts such as almond or vanilla. When using an essence, it is important not to add too much of it because you do not want it to overpower the dish or make it bitter. Some essences are more potent than others but usually, just two or three drops sprinkled over the dish or mixed in with the sugar syrup, or milky syrup used in a dessert, will do the trick. I use rose essence (more concentrated than rose water) and pandanus essence, which is commonly labeled with its Hindi name, kewra. Rose essence is extracted from fragrant rose petals and is clear in color. Pandanus essence is made from pandanus leaves and is light yellow to clear in color. Essences are found in small glass bottles in ethnic markets or the international section of some grocery stores. If you don’t have an essence for a dessert recipe, the dessert will still be excellent. I’ve stored my essence bottles in the refrigerator for two years, but they can be stored indefinitely in a cool dark place, or until their potency lessens.
Fennel seeds (saunf) Fennel seeds are small light green seeds that come from the fennel plant. Sometimes the use and name of fennel seeds is incorrectly interchanged with anise seeds, which have a somewhat similar flavor and appearance. A common way to use fennel seeds is as a breath freshener: It is chewed thoroughly and then swallowed. You may notice that in many Indian restaurants, near the door, there is a bowl with fennel seeds mixed with sugar to sweeten and freshen your mouth. I use fennel seeds to flavor Sweet Tamarind Chutney (page 31). On my summer trips to India as a child, one of my maternal aunts, Kamlesh Aunty, would always put together little plastic baggies of fennel candy, which was fennel seeds coated in a brightly colored, hardened sugar coating. I loved to visit her because she would always have the baggies ready to hand out to all of us cousins.
Garam Masala This aromatic spice mix is made from select whole spices that are dry-roasted to bring out their flavors, and then ground into a fine powder. Garam masala is commonly used in cooking throughout India. Although this spice mix is usually available in most grocery stores, each brand will have a slightly different flavor because there is really no set proportion or combination of spices to use. In general, most garam masala mixes will contain coriander seeds, cardamom, black peppercorns, cloves, cumin seeds and cinnamon but some brands of spice mixes may leave out or add certain spices, such as bay leaves, nutmeg and black cardamoms. For convenience, you can use the pre-blended mixes available in stores but for the best flavor, I recommend you make your own homemade batch with freshly roasted and ground spices. (See "Garam Masala," page 36.)
Garlic (lasan) The assertive flavor of garlic makes it one of my favorite cooking ingredients. Garlic bulbs are the underground root part of the plant and are made up of several cloves (small wedges of garlic) that are held together by a flaky skin that can be white, purple or pink (I use the white-skinned variety). Though mincing garlic may seem tedious, it’s definitely worth it for the flavor it adds to a dish. (See "Peeling and Chopping or Mincing Garlic," page 17.) I have found that pre-minced bottled garlic doesn’t come close to the strong aroma and flavor of fresh garlic, so do try to avoid using the pre-minced garlic. Garlic should be stored loosely covered (a paper bag is ideal) in a cool, dark place away from direct sun or heat. I like to keep mine no longer than three to four weeks but you can store it longer (just discard it when it has started to dry out). You can store the unused peeled cloves in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week. Don’t forget to chew on some fennel seeds after eating a dish that has a lot of garlic in it!
Ghee Ghee, a cooking fat made from clarifying butter, is used in traditional Indian kitchens. To make ghee, butter is melted to remove the water and separate off the milk solids, leaving pure butterfat. Once cow or buffalo milk is churned to make butter, the butter is then separated by slowly melting and simmering it until the milk solids settle at the bottom, the water boils off and golden liquid floats on top. The golden liquid may be collected and heated again so any remaining water boils off, resulting in pure, creamy clarified butterfat. As it cools, ghee will solidify and become smooth and creamy. Because the water and moisture are removed, ghee can be kept much longer than butter—up to at least six months in an airtight jar in your refrigerator or pantry. Today, health-conscious people avoid the use of ghee in daily cooking, but it is still used in Indian cooking and especially to make rich desserts. Ghee does have a unique smell and taste to it that may not be pleasant to some. To make things quick, easy and relatively healthy, I suggest sticking to vegetable or canola oil when cooking Indian food. Although if you would like to use melted ghee, it can substituted in equal amounts for oil or butter throughout the recipes in this book.
Ginger (adrak) Ginger is a root with a unique flavor and aroma, and is a must-have in my mother’s refrigerator. It is sold in the fresh produce section of grocery stores. If the root pieces are too big, you can snap off the desired size you want to buy. (See "Peeling and Grating Ginger," page 17.) Ginger keeps for two to three weeks when put in a paper bag and stored in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator. The exposed cut end of a partially used piece of ginger root should be tightly wrapped with plastic wrap before placing it back in the refrigerator.
Gram flour (besan) Gram flour, also known as chickpea flour, is made from a dried, split and skinned legume called Bengal gram. Bengal gram is a small dark brown chickpea (kala chana). The small dark brown chickpea is different from the bigger cream-colored chickpea known as the “garbanzo.” When Bengal gram is split and skinned, a yellow lentil called chana dal is revealed. This is crushed to make gram flour, which is pale yellow in color. You may find this flour in the international section of grocery stores or you may find it at an organic store. I use gram flour to make the batter for Vegetable Pakora Fritters (page 49) and also to make Gram Flour and Onion Roti (page 61). You can also use gram flour to make a natural face mask as my mother has recommended to me. If you have oily skin, mix gram flour with water until you get a pasty consistency; if you have dry skin, use milk instead of water. Spread the paste on your face and let the mask dry. When it is dry, wash off to reveal beautiful skin! You can make and use the face mask as often as you like. Store gram flour in an airtight jar in your pantry for up to three months, or up to six months in your freezer.
Ground red pepper (cayenne) (lal mirch) In Indian cooking, ground red pepper is practically a must-have. This spice adds fire to a dish. If you feel a dish is too spicy or not spicy enough based on the amount of ground red pepper indicated in one of my recipes, you can simply add more or less to meet your personal preference. Ground red pepper is made from various red chili peppers, such as bird’s-eye chili pepper, that have been dried and ground. You can find ground red pepper of different varieties and heat intensities in ethnic markets but you can also use ground cayenne pepper, which is readily available in the spice section of grocery stores. Ground cayenne pepper is a blend of various tropical chili peppers, including the cayenne chili. If you happen to get any of it on your hands, be sure to thoroughly wash them so you do not touch your lips, nose, or rub your eyes and cause irritation.
Lentils (whole and skinned/split) (sabut and dhuli dal) Lentils, called dal in Hindi, are a type of legume which are various bean or pea plants that have seed pods. When the seeds are removed from the pods and dried, they are called lentils or pulses. Lentils are either whole (sabut) or hulled (skin/shell removed) and split (dhuli). Sometimes lentils are split with the skin still on. When whole lentils are skinned and split, they reveal a different color and taste. Lentils can be kept for three months in an airtight jar in your pantry. Lentils should be picked over and washed before being used. (See "How to Wash Rice and Dried Legumes," page 15.)
Chana dal
Chana dal (skinned/split) When the tiny dark brown chickpea (kala chana), also known as “Bengal gram,” is skinned and split, a bright yellow lentil is revealed, which is called chana dal in Hindi. This lentil is tempered in oil to provide flavor and crunch to a dish such as Tamarind Rice (page 74). This lentil is also ground into gram flour (besan) to use in breads and the batter to make Vegetable Pakora Fritters (page 49). Note: Chana dal is neither the same as skinned and split yellow peas (field peas), which can be easily found in American stores, nor is it the same as skinned and split pigeon peas (toor dal), although all three varieties look similar.
Whole masoor dal
Skinned/split Masoor dal
Masoor dal (whole and skinned/split) Whole red lentils (sabut masoor dal) are disc-shaped with a flat base and reddish tan to light brown in color. In the United States, whole red lentils are commonly used to make lentil soup and can be readily found in American grocery stores. I have noticed that the ones in American stores are slightly larger and lighter in color and more tan whereas the ones at the Indian stores are the smaller and redder Indian variety but either will do fine. When these lentils are skinned and split (dhuli masoor dal), a beautiful orange color comes through and surprisingly, when they are cooked, they turn yellow.
Whole moong dal
Skinned/split Moong dal
Moong dal (whole and skinned/split), Whole green lentils (sabut moong dal) look like tiny dark green ovals. In addition to cooking these lentils, they may also be sprouted and tossed with fresh vegetables to make a lovely salad such as Fresh Lentil Sprout Salad (page 85). When these lentils are skinned and split (dhuli moong dal), they reveal a yellow color and can quickly be made into my favorite lentil dish, Green Lentil Dal Stew (page 89)! The split and skinned lentils are also used to make Creamy Mulligatawny Soup (page 81).
Toor dal
Toor dal (skinned/split pigeon peas) Whole greenish tan-colored pigeon peas reveal a yellow interior (toor dal) when they are skinned and split. Toor dal is used to make sambar, Split Pea and Vegetable Sambar Stew (page 82). In Indian grocery stores, you might also see toor dal that is oiled but I use the matte ones. The peas are sometimes oiled to increase shelf life, especially before exporting, but people usually wash the oil off in hot water before using. Toor dal resembles chana dal but toor dal is slightly smaller. Also, do not confuse toor dal with split yellow peas (field peas) that are commonly found in American stores.
Skinned/split Urad dal
Urad dal (skinned/split) When whole, these tiny lentils are black and are called “black gram” or sabut urad dal. When they are skinned and split, they are white. The skinned and split lentil (dhuli urad dal) is soaked and ground to make the Dosa and Uttapam Batter (page 37). It is also tempered in oil to add flavor to rice and other dishes.
Mangoes (tart “green” pickling and sweet “yellow” eating varieties) (aam) Mangoes come in many different varieties, shapes, colors and sizes and are enjoyed throughout India in many different ways —from pickles, chutneys, drinks, ice cream and of course, eaten as a fresh fruit. I use big ripe yellow mangoes to make Mango Lassi Yogurt Smoothie (page 133) and green, unripe “pickling” mangoes to make Mango Achaar Pickle (page 33) and Sweet and Spicy Mango Chutney (page 30). When buying ripe mangoes for lassis, fruit salad or just eating as is, look for mangoes that yield slightly to the touch and have a sweet fragrance. The skin of ripe mangoes will be yellow-orange with red blushing or green with red blushing. The flesh of perfectly ripe eating mangoes is bright yellow and hopefully sweet and fragrant. Ripe yellow mangoes should be kept in the refrigerator up to one week after they are bought. If you happen to buy some that are hard and not quite ripe, you may put them in a paper bag at room temperature for a few days until they soften and then refrigerate them.
Pickling mangoes are green on the outside, firm to the touch and hard and white on the inside. These are a special variety of mangoes that are specifically plucked when they are still unripe. Eventually, these mangoes will soften and ripen but they will remain tart. Pickling mangoes can be found in various sizes at ethnic markets and some American grocery stores. If you do not find a specific pickling variety mango, an unripe eating variety that is very firm and has green skin can be used instead. You may notice that the inside of an unripe eating mango is pale yellow. Pickling mangoes should be immediately refrigerated after purchasing them to stall ripening.
Mustard seeds (sarson ka beej, also called rai) Mustard seeds come in two types: white, which are really yellowish-tan in color, and black, which are actually dark brown in color and are the ones I use. The white seeds are larger and not as pungent as the darker seeds and are used to make American mustards. Mustard seeds are used in the tempering process of cooking, in which spices are introduced to heated oil, causing the flavors to release. When tempering mustard seeds, you can see and hear them crackle and pop but be careful—if you put them in oil that is too hot, they might wildly fly around as they pop and hit your face or eyes. Some people believe that mustard seeds ward off evil and negative forces, so if you feel things are not going well, try sprinkling some mustard seeds around the outside of your home to see if your luck changes! If anything, you might get pretty yellow mustard plants growing around your house.
Nutmeg (jaiphal) Nutmeg is the light brown seed of a fruit from an evergreen tree. It is best to buy it whole and grate it on the prickly side of a box grater or a Microplane when ready to use to get the maximum flavor. The unused portion should be kept in your pantry in an airtight bottle. You can also simply buy a small amount of pre-ground nutmeg, but do keep in mind that ground nutmeg soon loses its flavor. Nutmeg has a flavor that is similar but slightly different from cinnamon. I use nutmeg to flavor meats, but you could also sprinkle some on Indian Cappuccino (page 135) and see how you like that.
Oil (vanaspati tail) Oil is an important part of cooking Indian food because it allows food to delicately brown and also adds fat which, of course, means adding flavor! Oil also prevents food from sticking to the bottom of cookware, especially if you are not using nonstick cookware. I usually cook Indian food with either vegetable oil or canola oil, which is a specific type of vegetable oil that is expressed from the seeds of the rapeseed plant. For simplicity, I call for vegetable oil in the recipes throughout this book but you can certainly use canola oil instead, which is healthier, although a bit pricier. Vegetable oil is a category of cooking oil made from plant sources, such as vegetable, nuts or seeds. When I buy vegetable oil, I buy the bottle that says “vegetable oil,” which may be soybean, corn or other vegetable-derived oils that are mixed together. Olive oil, a type of vegetable oil, is not traditionally used to cook Indian food but now some are starting to use it for health reasons. Once opened, store oil tightly closed in a cabinet for up to six months.
Paneer is a fresh homemade cheese that is unripened—meaning it has not been aged. It is a mild, versatile cheese that does not melt when heated due to its chemical structure and can be used to make appetizers, main dishes and a variety of Indian desserts. This cheese is simply made by separating boiling milk into curds (solid clumps) and whey (watery liquid) by using an acidic agent such as lime juice or yogurt. The whey is then drained by passing it through a cheesecloth, leaving the moist, soft and crumbly curds, which is the Indian cheese, paneer. Depending on what you want to make with the paneer, it can be used as is in its soft, crumbled form or it may be shaped into a square and pressed under a heavy weight so the remaining whey is pressed out, leaving a firm cheese block that can be cut into pieces and fried or sautéed. I always prefer to use whole milk instead of reduced fat milk when making paneer so that I can get the maximum yield of paneer that is rich and creamy with a beautiful texture. Paneer is usually made from cow or buffalo milk and should be used immediately. It can be kept in the refrigerator for only one day so it does not dry out. Paneer blocks and fried paneer cubes can be found in the refrigerated and frozen sections of Indian grocery stores. But because fresh paneer is so easy to make, I prefer to make it at home.
Paprika (degi mirch) is made from sweet peppers (usually bell peppers) that have been allowed to turn red on the plant before being plucked, set to dry and ground. Paprika is usually not hot and might even have a sweet taste to it, depending on the crop of the bell peppers used. I use paprika as a natural food coloring in dishes, such as Chicken Tikka Masala (page 95) and Lamb or Chicken Vindaloo Curry (page 102 and 103), so I like to buy the brightest red paprika I can find. The colors vary from dark orange to a deep red based on the color of the red peppers that were dried. Don’t be afraid to add an extra teaspoon of paprika to the dish you are cooking if you prefer a deeper color. After all, it does come from a sweet pepper, so it can’t spice up your dish too much!
