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SALT COD MOUSSE, BLACK RADISH AND RAMSON SAUCE

In early spring, all around Cartmel ramsons fill the air with their distinctive garlicky aroma. The season is brief, so we like to make as much use of it as we can, such as in this vibrant and delicious green sauce. This recipe makes a good quantity of sauce, but any left over can be kept in the fridge, covered, for 3–5 days and used with any simple dishes, such as grilled lamb chops. You need to plan ahead with this dish – the fish needs curing for 1 hour and the mousse needs to set in the fridge for a minimum of 3 hours for perfect flavouring and consistency.

SERVES 6, AS A STARTER

Salt cod mousse

125g fresh cod fillet, skinned

15g fine salt

40g flat-leaf parsley leaves

50ml sunflower oil

2½ gelatine leaves

130g potatoes (preferably Maris Piper), peeled and cut into even-sized chunks

300g crème fraîche

Ramson sauce

250g ramson leaves

2 tbsp sunflower oil

2 medium shallots, thinly sliced

200ml whole milk

200ml double cream

Black radish

1 large black radish, or any other radish

4 tsp salmon roe

salt, for seasoning

tagetes leaves and flowers, to serve

Dust the cod fillets with the salt and place on a plate in the fridge to cure for 1 hour. Rinse off the salt under cold running water and pat the fillets dry with kitchen paper. Blitz the parsley and oil together in a blender until smooth, strain through muslin into a bowl and put to one side.

Preheat the oven to 170°C/150°C Fan/Gas Mark 3.

Soak the gelatine in cold water for a few minutes until softened. Drain, squeeze out the excess water and leave the gelatine to one side.

Cook the potatoes in a saucepan of water over a high heat until tender. Bake the cod fillets on a baking tray for 6–8 minutes until flaky.

Drain the potatoes and flake the cod, and blitz them together in a blender with the softened gelatine leaves until smooth. Press through a fine sieve and fold in the parsley oil and crème fraîche. Transfer to an airtight container and leave in the fridge for 3 hours to set.

To make the sauce, bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the ramsons for 2 minutes. Remove from the water with a slotted spoon and transfer to a bowl of iced water to stop it cooking. Drain and squeeze out the excess water. In a medium, heavy-based saucepan, heat the oil over a medium heat and sweat the sliced shallots for 3–5 minutes, or until translucent. Add the milk and cream and bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Pour into a blender, add the blanched ramson leaves and blitz until smooth, then strain through a fine sieve into a bowl, cover and chill.

Just before serving, peel and slice the radish lengthways on a mandoline to create thin rectangles and season with salt just before serving.

Spoon the mousse into the centre of each bowl, shape the radish slices into curls and place alongside. Spoon the salmon roe on top of the mousse and finish with the green sauce and tagetes leaves and flowers.