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PASTA IN BRODO

I adore this dish—it is the Italian equivalent of chicken noodle soup and soothes away life’s stresses and strains. I formed my attachment to this soup at the tender age of II, when my parents took a gastronomic tour of Italy. We whizzed around hairpin bends from Milan to Rome, eating on terraces overlooking fields of wild flowers, and in piazzas with gurgling fountains. Unfortunately, the speedy driving and rich meals took their toll. So I discovered the soothing qualities of pasta in broth and, to my poor father’s dismay, ate it for lunch and dinner for the rest of the trip, adoring every mouthful with its little parcels of loveliness.

TO SERVE FOUR TO SIX

1.5 litres/2¹/₂ pints excellent beef stock

(see page 184) made with the addition of 3 chicken drumsticks and a small piece of Parmesan rind (odd, but traditional)

250g/9oz tortellini

freshly grated Parmesan (optional)

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Reduce the stock by about one-third and season until it is nectar. Refrigerate the stock overnight. By the next day it will have set like jelly and the fat will have formed a crust on the top. This is beef dripping and can be used for frying, or binned if you don’t like the look of it and it makes you a bit queasy.

Ladle 1 litre/1³/₄ pints of stock into a pan and bring to the boil, taste and season with salt. Drop in the tortellini and cook for the time stated on the packet. Serve with the Parmesan sprinkled on top if you wish.