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Cypriot potatoes with red wine and coriander

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‘Patates spastes’ is a rather remarkable way of cooking potatoes – and extraordinarily delicious. First the potatoes are cracked open, then deep-fried and then, finally, finished with fragrant coriander seeds and red wine. The result is so good that they are worth cooking and eating just for a snack, though of course they are excellent with any red meat dish.

Serves 4

750g (1 lb 10oz) small new potatoes, scrubbed

sunflower or vegetable oil for deep-frying

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 heaped tablespoon coriander seeds, coarsely crushed

130ml (41/2 floz) red wine

salt and pepper

Bash each potato with a wooden mallet or the end of a rolling pin, to crack open. Take it easy at first until you get the impact just heavy enough to do the job, without smashing each one to smithereens.

Heat a 4–5 cm (11/2 in) depth of sunflower or vegetable oil in a saucepan, over a moderate heat. It’s hot enough when a cube of bread dropped into it fizzles gently and browns within 1 minute. Wipe the potatoes dry, then deep-fry in batches until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Drain on kitchen paper.

Now get a clean saucepan, and add the olive oil. Set over a low heat and when the oil is warm add the potatoes, coriander, salt and pepper, then at arms’ length, pour over the wine. Stir so that everything is nicely mixed, then cover tightly and leave to cook gently for another 17–20 minutes until the potatoes are tender and the wine has all been absorbed. Shake the pan once in a while, to prevent sticking, and turn the potatoes after about 10 minutes so that they each get a chance to sit in the wine.

Eat the wine-soaked potatoes while still hot and fragrant.

Vegetables

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