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Bligh's Bitter Fruit (1789-91)

The true story of the first arrivals in the many lovely island groups of the Pacific Ocean is one that will occupy the minds of historians 'and anthropologists for many years to come. The myths and legends of the various Polynesian, Melanesian and Micronesian peoples will be retold, compared and discussed by many erudite men who may or may not finally succeed in giving the world the true story. Some islands, such as those of Fiji, lying athwart the 180th meridian and virtually on the dividing line between Polynesia and Melanesia, seem to inspire legends that are without parallel elsewhere. Despite research to the present day, it is still uncertain how much of the Fijian stories of the first landing in Fiji of their predecessors, De gel and Lutunasobusobu, are myth or history.

The much more recent arrivals of the white men, although they fell within the period of recorded history, are scarcely better known.

Due to the prevailing winds and currents, most of the early Pacific explorers missed the Fiji Islands altogether. A study of the track charts of Pacific navigators shows them all passing around Fiji.

Abel J. Tasman, of the ship Heemskerque, and Captain James Cook, of HMS Resolution, are hailed as the first discoverers, but they barely touched the group. Tasman saw a jumble of reefs and far-off peaks when, in bad weather, he almost came to grief among the reefs of northern Lau. He extricated himself and cleared the islands as quickly as possible.

Cook on the other hand knew of the existence of Fiji, and was trying to pass south of the maze of reefs located east of the group. In addition to Tasman's reports, Cook had learned of the existence of the islands from the Friendly Islanders. He sighted Vatoa and gave it the name of Turtle Island. At the time of Cook's death it is said that exploration in the Pacific had virtually ended, yet nearly all the islands of the Fiji group were to be discovered after that time.

Though Cook had not pressed forward with his discovery, he had trained the man who would do so, the man who would learn more about the islands than any other man of his era. He was Lt. William Bligh who, at the age of twenty, had served as sailing master to Cook in HMS Resolution. Bligh's decision to see more of the islands was not made with the object of exploration or the hope of discovering new lands. In his case it was a mere matter of survival. He had been deposed from command of his ship by mutineers and pushed unceremoniously into a small boat with eighteen loyal members of his crew, little food and water, and no arms other than a few cutlasses.

Bligh had not immediately sailed for Fiji. He had first taken the small boat to the nearby Tongan island of Tofua. It was his intention to gather coconuts, bread-fruit and water and then sail to Tongatabu—a comparatively short distance. There he meant to seek the protection of the local king and ask him to provision the boat. Depending on the welcome he received, he would then either sail to Timor or wait in Tongatabu for another ship in the hope of obtaining a passage to New South Wales.

While the men from the small ship's boat were ashore at Tofua gathering coconuts, they were kept under surveillance by a group of native Tofuans. The Tofuans were wary of the usual landing parties which were armed with muskets and rigourously repelled attempts to approach their boats. But these foreigners acted differently and the situation was not one that the natives had previously experienced. First, there was no big ship in the offing, the type whose heavy guns they had learned to fear. Second, these men seemed frantic in their attempts to gather up the food—a speed that seemed to be borne of fear. There was an easy way to test that fear.

Stones lay about ready to be hurled—the smooth kind that would fly true when thrown. Normally when they reached for stones the islanders would be threatened with the muskets of the landing party. And often a frightening, deafening noise would erupt from these muskets, which they had come to recognize as a warning. Then would be the time to drop the stones at their feet. But no muskets were evident this time, and the islanders, gaining courage, moved forward to within accurate throwing distance. Still there was no action on the part of the white men, although one did shout at the Tofuans in a voice that betrayed his fear. As the strangers drew together making an even easier target, the first stone was thrown with almost the speed and accuracy of a musket ball.

One foreigner broke and rushed for his boat. That was encouragement enough for the Tofuans to start their attack in earnest, and a shower of stones fell around those of the boat's crew who had stood their ground. One stone caught a seamari above his eye and he dropped to the ground. Those who stooped to assist him saw from a glance that the big wound was fatal, and ran toward the boat in panic. Many were hit before reaching the boat, but the first man and the boat guard had already pushed it from the beach and it was afloat. Scrambling on board, the men were able to pole the boat out of range without further loss, leaving their comrade dead on the beach.

Twice within the past few hours Bligh had been forced to eat the bitter fruit of humiliation. Having been divested of his authority as a king's officer by the mutineers, he had now been forced to realize that it was only that authority that had enabled him to land in any of the islands with impunity. Without arms, the reception he had received at Tofua might be repeated at any of the other islands to which his old captain had given the name "Friendly." No other known islands were within easy sailing distance.

To the eastward and to windward lay the island of Tahiti but it would be impossible to sail there in the tiny overcrowded boat. To the westward, 3,618 miles away, lay the island of Timor in the East Indies, where he could be sure to find friends and a ship to take him back to England. But it was a voyage that could not fail to stir grave doubts. Bligh had only the 23-foot launch from his old command ship Bounty, and it was overcrowded with seventeen men besides himself. Then he would have to sail through the mass of reefs that the Tongans had told Cook marked the eastern barrier to the islands of Fiji. He would also have to chance meeting the fierce warriors who were said to inhabit the islands. The islands themselves, being unknown and uncharted, would offer more navigational hazards.

Many things may have combined to help Bligh reach the decision, but after all there was no other course open to him. There was his firm resolve to bring the mutineers to justice, his concern as a captain for the welfare of his men, the opportunity to redeem himself for the loss of his ship—probably a combination of all three—backed by the stubbornness that was the hallmark of Bligh. The first danger to overcome was the Fiji Islands, although they had yet to receive that name. In attempting to give them their Fijian name Viti, the Tongans, who had difficulty in pronouncing the name, referred to the islands as Feejee or Fechee, and there were other variations of the spelling.

Bligh's journal which together with his report finally reached the Admiralty, recorded:

My intention is to steer to the W.N.W. that I may see the group of islands called Fidgee, if they lie in that direction.

West northwest, dead before the wind, was the only safe course for the boat with her low freeboard. An attempt to sail her on a reach had already caused the tiny craft to heel and ship water over the gunwales. The men were forced to bale continuously, and they would soon be worn out with the heavy work. When the course was altered to run before the wind, there was relief from bailing for a time. The men were able to rest after the boat was dried out. But as the boat left the unseen shelter of the Tonga Islands astern, the motion became more violent as the swell increased. Soon the curling tops of the waves lapped the stern of the racing boat, and then, as their height was further increased, the white spray slopped over, drenching the helmsman.

To continue in the increasing sea and swell would only cause the boat to fill, despite frantic bailing. Bligh and his seamen were only too conscious of the danger. The easier plan would have been to try to sail back to the shelter of the shore, placate the natives, and land, hoping to be able to make the boat more seaworthy. But Bligh dismissed this thought immediately. Fortunately the carpenter's tool box had been placed in the boat by the mutineers.

1. Captain William Bligh, an early visitor to the islands.

Bligh directed the carpenter to remove the forward thwarts and use them to build up the stern. This was no easy task with the boat dipping in the waves, but it was eventually completed. In addition the new boards had been covered with canvas to make the joints watertight. With the boat again bailed dry, her commander could dispense with the problem of immediate survival and plan the long voyage ahead. The conservation of food and water he took as his own responsibility. Watches were set, and then Bligh could turn his attention to the care of the sick. In addition to this he was the navigator of the small craft.

As soon as possible, comfort and the stability of the boat received his attention. The tools from the box were taken out and stowed on the bottom boards, thus placing the weight low down and improving stability. Then all men not on watch were ordered to lay down and obtain whatever rest was possible, which again reduced the top weight. Although he still had seventeen men with him, less than half of them were seamen. There was little in the nature of their normal duties that could be carried out by David Nelson, the botanist, and John Samuel, the captain's clerk.

Incredibly, with all the duties and the supervision of his crew, Bligh found time to keep a journal. On 4 May, 1789, six days after the mutiny of the Bounty, Bligh's journal records the sighting of a "flat topped island." It was Yagasa Levu, set among the maze of reefs that mark the eastern edge of the Fiji Islands.

While Bligh navigated by eye to clear the white water of the breaking surf, other islands were sighted; to starboard was Moce, and to port Namuka-i-Lau.

Steering to pass between the two islands, altering course to pass a small breaking reef, the Bounty launch was clear of the reef barrier that marked the eastern Fijian islands. This massive barrier, reported by Tongans who had been there in their canoes, had kept other seamen from visiting these islands for years. But none had so desperate a need as did the survivors of the mutiny.

Luck seemed to have changed after the abortive landing at Tofua. Bligh had been extremely fortunate to arrive off the eastern barrier in daylight, when he could easily steer clear of the surf. Also, although he did not know this, the stretch of water ahead through which he must sail at night was clear of dangers. An island, Vanua Vatu, was passed during the night, the boat remaining clear of the island's dim bulk. With dawn of the next day Gau and Nairai were smudged on the horizon ahead. It must have been galling to the men in the boat to pass by these lush green islands when they were. already rationed for food and water. But the islands were left far enough to port so the little craft would not be visible to watchers ashore. Although little was known about these islands, the stories told at Tonga about their fierce inhabitants caused their very names to be feared by the seamen.

MAP 2: Fiji Islands

Another night of sailing passed, the boat pitching and rolling on the Koro Sea. With daylight, the island of Koro was abeam to starboard and Makogai was on the port bow. Further away to port were Wakaya and the picturesque jagged peaks of Ovalau. Even with a sharp lookout and unremitting care, the small band of shipmates had still been lucky to avoid running the boat on one of the jagged reefs. After passing Makogai that luck ran out. Suddenly, dead ahead, in poor light, loomed the reef that runs southward from Vanua Levu. Too late to turn, and unconsciously aping Tasman's action in similar circumstances, the boat was headed for a place where the surf seemed least fierce.

The shallow draft enabled the launch to ride right over the reef, pounding slightly and heavily jarring the keel, but inflicting no injury on the occupants.

Sailing on, Bligh was now passing between unseen reefs on either hand. To port was high land, the hills of the main island Viti Levu, while to starboard loomed the hills of Vanua Levu. A middle course was laid between the two islands, and without knowing it the boat was directed through a stretch of deep water between the reefs that ran right through the group to the Yasawa islands at the far northwest.

The stretch of water, many years later, would be named Bligh Water by a government established by his own country. But thoughts of naming his new discoveries had not occurred to Bligh. He was too busy, navigating between the reefs and attempting to sail clear of these islands before he should be sighted by their fierce warrior inhabitants. His wish was almost to be fulfilled, for he was abeam of Yasawa Island, last outpost of the group, and had still not made contact with any warriors. But as he scanned the horizon ahead, finally comprehending that no other islands were visible, one of his men, voice trembling with fear, cried out that canoes were heading towards the small boat.

The canoes, large twin-hulled craft, had just sailed clear of Yasawa Island bound on some mission of their own, when they also sighted the strange craft. The canoes were immediately put on a course to chase the Bounty launch. The lethargy that had overcome the men in Bligh's boat suddenly vanished in the face of this real and immediate danger. Oars were shipped to assist the lugs ails, and the speed of the boat visibly increased. But compared to the swift sailing canoes the boat appeared to have almost stopped. The warriors were making every effort to overhaul the boat, but kept glancing astern where large towering black clouds were covering the sky. Suddenly, and without any reason that the men in the boat could fathom, the canoes broke off the chase and sheered off, altering course back to the island.

As the weary men stopped rowing to watch the retreat, they felt the first sharp puffs of the line squall running down on them. Now sail was lowered as the fierce gusts and heavy rain enveloped them. They would have sought shelter under the sail had not Bligh ordered it to be rigged to catch water from the squall.

It is not certain whether it was the storm or the fact that the canoes would have had to sail dead to leeward, their worst point of sailing, that caused the chase to be called off. Luck was with the boat's crew. The inhabitants of Yasawa well into the 19th century enjoyed a reputation as a fierce and warlike people. In all, 7 May, 1789, had been a memorable day. The journal merely records:

Heavy weather—much lightning and rain—caught six gallons water—chased by two canoes—

Bligh was to meet other dangers, but the remainder of that epic boat voyage does not concern Fiji, except to record that Bligh reached Coupang in Timor, from where he took passage to England, arriving on 14 March, 1790.

The memorable boat voyage won him the respect of his senior officers, as well as promotion to the old rank of "master and commander." The words "master and" were to be dropped from the rank a few years later, but by then Bligh was a post captain. He had only served as a commander for two months before being promoted, although it was customary to serve at least three years in that rank. In addition to his promotions, the Admiralty so far supported him as to dispatch Captain Edward Edwards, in HMS Pandora, to search for the mutineers, who had stated their intention of returning to the island of Tahiti.

So whatever his detractors make of the character of Bligh, their opinion was obviously not shared by that discerning body, the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. When another ship, HMS Providence, was made ready to carry out the breadfruit voyage aborted by the mutiny, command was offered to Bligh. This very action implied faith in him as well as exoneration for the mutiny. This time the Admiralty was to correct some of its own mistakes which had caused the mutiny.

The ship chosen for the second voyage was large enough to accommodate a detachment of Royal Marines. A second, smaller vessel, aptly named Assistant, was to accompany Providence as her tender. Bounty, too small to carry marines in addition to her ship's company, had been sent alone.

After the first voyage of Cook in the Endeavour bark, it had been customary to plan for at least two ships in company when making extended voyages to the Pacific. The smaller, more manoeuvrable vessel could be sent ahead to explore dangerous waters. One ship could help the other in case of difficulties of navigation or stranding, and there would also be a greater chance of survival in case of foundering or shipwreck. The reason that these proved dictates of sound commonsense and good seamanship were not followed in the case of the Bounty is easy to explain. There was no money available.

The second appointment would give to Bligh the chance to prove that he could successfully carry out the difficult breadfruit assignment. It was also to give him the opportunity to see the Fiji Islands again. Two men who had sailed in the Bounty and had shared the discomfort of the boat voyage also sailed in HMS Providence-Lawrence Lebogue, a sailmaker, and John Smith, a cook.

The time for collecting breadfruit in Tahiti was much shorter than on the Bounty voyage. With a greater knowledge of plant life, the men arrived in Tahiti when the plants were in prime condition and ready for transplanting. Bounty had arrived at the wrong time of year and had had to wait for the plants to mature. With the larger ship loaded to capacity, the two vessels then commenced their voyage towards the West Indies, passing through the islands of Fiji on the way.

It was 1791 when Providence entered the Fiji group of islands. The ship went through the Oneata Passage between Moce and the Oneata Islands, some fifteen miles north of the passage Bligh had used on the boat journey. Once clear of the maze of reefs, Providence was hove to off Moce Island. No attempt was made to land, but a canoe that came alongside was sketched and described. A drawing made from the description was to be one of the first of the Fijian people to be shown to the Western world. Then Bligh sailed northward, west of the chain of Lau islands as far as Yacata. Here he sighted to the northward the islands of Taveuni, Qamea: and Laucala. He was now near the point where Tasman had reached Fiji, and it was probably Tasman's description of the dangerous reefs around "Prinz Willem's Islands," as he had named them, that caused Bligh to alter course to the southwest.

He had already seen more of the Fiji group than any other man, but Bligh wanted to know more. He now put into operation a technique of surveying that he had already developed when coming across earlier discoveries made by Cook and Captain Samuel Wallis, of HMS Dolphin. Where these navigators had sailed around, for instance, the north side of an island, he would sail around the unknown south side to complete available knowledge. Now, having passed north of Viti Levu in the launch, he altered course to pass south of it with his two ships.

These so long unknown and uncharted islands were now fitting into a pattern in Bligh's sketch book and journals. Each island passed was sketched, measured and plotted in its relative position to the others. He. checked the notes he had made on the first voyage and recorded his new discoveries as well. As each island was discovered, it was identified in his journal by a letter of the alphabet. The island of Moce, already sketched on the boat voyage, is marked as A on his map. From B to P it is easy from Bligh's own descriptions to identify the places. All are Lau islands except H, which is a breaking reef called Cakau Vuite by the Fijians. Q in the list is Yacata, while R and T are the two ends of Taveuni Island. Letters S to Y indicate the islands of the Lomaiviti group, while Z is the southeast corner of Viti Levu easily identified by Bligh's description of the "Cockscomb hills" of the Korobasabasaga Range.

Bligh had now run out of letters of the alphabet but not out of islands. Seeing next the island of Beqa, he designated it No. 1 on his list, then altered course to pass south of it. In doing so he sighted the hills of Kadavu, No. 2, and altered course to pass along the eastern and southern coasts of that island. From Kadavu Bligh sailed away to the New Hebrides, passing south of Vatu Lele without sighting either that island or the islands to the west of Viti Levu.

Able, on this occasion, to measure angles in relative comfort, to sketch with proper, as against makeshift, instruments, Bligh completed his sketches. He also prepared a detailed and accurate description of the islands and gave sailing directions for the areas he had covered. He had in fact discovered the extent of the group, lacking only the southernmost islands of Lau and the outlying Rotuma. This latter island was also to be associated with the Bounty, however, as it was discovered by Captain Edwards in the Pandora while he searched for the mutineers.

Soon, other seamen, guided by the notes of Bligh, ventured into these waters. The ships of commerce headed first for Tonga and then followed Bligh's route from there to the islands of Fiji. The sandalwood trade, starting with a trickle in 1804, grew to a flood in 1808 and virtually ended in 1814 when all the available trees were cut out. The seamen of those ships paid to Bligh one of the few courtesies he was to receive in his lifetime. The islands were for many years named "Bligh's Islands" and bore that name on the first chart produced by Arrowsmith of London in 1814.

It is a strange quirk of Bligh's nature that, knowing himself to be the first Western seaman to see these islands, he named none of them. Neither did he land on any of them. With an adequate number of marines to protect a landing party, and in command of a well-equipped expedition, he could well have done so. But the safe delivery of the breadfruit was his primary concern. Having once failed, he would not let anything turn him from this duty. Every day the plants remained on board lessened the chances of their eventual arrival in good condition. The fastest possible passage was essential. Water was short and had to be rationed to the men, but there had to be water for the plants also. He had also been given the duty of surveying Torres Strait, which took seventeen precious days.

One of the midshipmen engaged in the survey was to become as well known as Bligh, and his name was to become a byword in that part of the world—Matthew Flinders, the great explorer of the Australian coastal waters.

Eventually the breadfruit plants that had left so much misery in their wake were delivered to the West Indies where, it was hoped, they would provide a cheap source of food for plantation slaves. The plants prospered. But the fruit was completely unacceptable to the people for whom it had been brought. Bligh, however, had brought a few sticks of Otaheite sugar cane on his own initiative. These also grew well and were to be the foundation of many of the big sugar plantations of the next century.

With the successful completion of the breadfruit voyage, Bligh could hope with some reason for other appointments on voyages of exploration. It was reasonable to suppose that he would be sent back with time to explore the islands he had discovered. He had been recommended for the original appointment to Fiji by Sir Joseph Banks, who had been impressed with his worth on Cook's last voyage. The journal of the Bounty launch, which proved him to be a superb seaman and extraordinary navigator, was fresh in the minds of those at the Admiralty. He had also impressed the gentlemen of the Royal Society. But unfortunately for his desires and aspirations, war had broken out with France six months before his return. He was first and foremost a trained naval officer, and for the next twelve years he served in command of ships of war.

On 21 May, 1801, his work as an explorer and surveyor was belatedly recognized when he was appointed a Fellow of the Royal Society. But the storms of Bligh's life had not been replaced by the easy sailing of a senior officer. His association with Fiji was not to cease, nor was his penchant for sailing in troubled waters.

Although half a century would pass before Fiji was reasonably surveyed, Bligh had ended the islands' complete isolation from the world. He had shown the way, and missionaries and traders would follow.

During the days of the sandalwood trade in Fiji Bligh was appointed governor of New South Wales. He stated his intention of keeping the trade for British ships and tried to prevent the in any Yankee ships from taking part. But Bligh had his own troubles and was not able to control the trade. Nor was he destined to visit Fiji again

The ships that would follow would come to Fiji armed and prepared for battle with the fierce warriors, yet many were to find the guns superfluous. Fiji's association with the rest of the world began from that time. They came first in the hundreds, not only white men, but Lascars in the East Indiamen and Negro cooks in the Yankee ships. For such a motley crowd, the Fijians had the best description—kai vavalagi—the men from over the horizon.

They came not in uniforms or a uniformed body, but as individuals. Some would become mere beachcombers drifting with the current. Their death or their leaving would be of little consequence. Others for one reason or another were to have a profound effect on the history of Fiji.