Foodscapes, Foodfields, and Identities in the YucatÁn

Foodscapes, Foodfields, and Identities in the YucatÁn
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The state of Yucatán has its own distinct culinary tradition, and local people are constantly thinking and talking about food. They use it as a vehicle for social relations but also to distinguish themselves from “Mexicans.” This book examines the politics surrounding regional cuisine, as the author argues that Yucatecan gastronomy has been created and promoted in an effort to affirm the identity of a regional people and to oppose the hegemonic force of central Mexican cultural icons and forms. In particular, Yucatecan gastronomy counters the homogenizing drive of a national cuisine based on dominant central Mexican appetencies and defies the image of Mexican national cuisine as rooted in indigenous traditions. Drawing on post-structural and postcolonial theory, the author proposes that Yucatecan gastronomy – having successfully gained a reputation as distinct and distant from ‘Mexican’ cuisine – is a bifurcation from regional culinary practices. However, the author warns, this leads to a double, paradoxical situation that divides the nation: while a national cuisine attempts to silence regional cultural diversity, the fissures in the project of a homogeneous regional identity are revealed.

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Steffan Igor Ayora-Diaz. Foodscapes, Foodfields, and Identities in the YucatÁn

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CEDLA Latin America Studies (CLAS)

General Editor

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Within my wife's family, one aunt has long been recognized as owning the ‘best' recipe for cod Biscayne-style. After a sustained monopoly (lasting longer than the 25 years that I have been related to her family), she selected me to inherit her ‘secret' recipe. She told me that she had developed her own recipe, taking her mother's dish as a starting point, but later including a different technique and adding an ingredient that she had learned about from a friend. Although not all regional versions are identical, her rendition of the dish fits the widespread Yucatecan understanding of the recipe, and most Yucatecans would probably recognize it as a variation on a commonly accepted culinary theme.

Thus, in order to satisfy our longing for the dish during that season of the year, especially during the weeks that precede Christmas Eve (when we would share our own Christmas dinner with relatives and friends), a party made up of myself, my wife, and some friends visited Yucatecan seafood restaurants and Mexican restaurants located in Mérida that annually list the dish in their menus, along with other central Mexican Christmas dishes, such as romeritos (see the glossary). In general, we found that the cod dish was in some places saltier, while in others the sauce was thicker. In some restaurants, the dish was spicy hot, while in others it was too bland for our taste. Overall, the different versions of the dish available in Yucatán looked alike, but they were unlike what my friend had cooked in Chiapas. In its different Yucatecan presentations, the cod had been coarsely shredded or cut into pieces and simmered in a tomato sauce with olives, with or without capers, with or without slices of pimiento (which some cooks blend into the sauce), and with or without croutons (or golden-fried slices of French bread). In addition, it was sometimes accompanied by refried black beans and sometimes not. Flavors and aromas varied according to the quality of the cod, the type of olive oil used, and whether the tomato sauce was freshly made or employed processed tomatoes.17

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