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Essential Tools

If you are just starting out, there are “must have” tools and then there are the additional tools that will make your projects come together faster and easier. Here are some of the essentials you want to consider before getting started, what they do and why you might want to try them.

Sewing Machine

This may seem like a no-brainer but a machine is the first and most important tool you will need to learn how to quilt. You don’t need anything fancy to start. As long as it will sew a straight stitch and it’s clean, you’ll be fine.

If you do purchase a new machine, I recommend buying one from a local store where you can learn how to use it and they will service it for you.

Quarter-Inch Presser Foot

Every quilt pattern I’ve ever read is written for a ¼" (0.64cm) seam allowance. The easiest way to maintain a consistent seam is to use a ¼" (0.64cm) presser foot. Some feet maintain this measurement when the needle is centered and the seam is sewn along the outer edge of the foot. Other types have a small metal guide to move your fabric along when you are sewing a seam. Machines might come with a dedicated ¼" (0.64cm) foot or there are after-market feet available.

Walking Foot

A walking foot is used any time you are moving three or more layers through your sewing machine. The walking foot is special because it has small ridges, or “feed dogs,” on top of the foot that move in tandem with the feed dogs under the throat plate of your machine. Layers are moved through the machine at the same rate, preventing bunching or puckers.

Thread

Choosing a good thread helps avoid headaches as you sew. It can help avoid lint build-up, extending the time you can go between cleanings. When you move from piecing to quilting, thread choice plays a powerful role in the finished look of the quilt.

For piecing and quilting I use Aurifil™ 50wt thread. I like to piece with white thread no matter what color of fabric I’m working with and I use all colors to quilt with.

Rotary Cutters

To the untrained eye, a rotary cutter looks and works like a pizza cutter. A rotary cutter allows you to cut fabric quickly, easily, and accurately with the aid of an acrylic ruler or template. There are many options on the market but they all do the same thing. The blades are very sharp and they can cut quickly and unexpectedly if you aren’t careful with them. Always make sure your blade is in the safety setting when you aren’t using it.

Cutting Mats

I suggest you buy no smaller than an 18" x 24" (45.72 x 60.96cm) self-healing cutting mat. You’ll be able to cut strips across the width of fabric and that is required for nearly every pattern in this book. Mats are gridded to assist you in cutting, but it’s important to make sure 1" (2.54cm) squares of the grid are accurate.

Pins

You need something to hold your fabric together as you sew, and pins are that something! I prefer flower-head pins because they slide easily into quilting fabric, they’re easy to grab on to, and they’re cute! Try to find long, thin pins for easier handling.

Quilting Rulers

Acrylic quilting rulers come in all shapes and sizes but the 6" x 24" (15.24 x 60.96cm) ruler is one of the most versatile. They span the width of folded fabric and can be used to cut strips, squares, and even triangles. Try to find one with 30°, 45°, and 60° lines on it so you can also use it to trim triangle blocks. For smaller cuts, try a 6½" (16.51cm) square or a 2" (5.08cm) to 4" x 12" (10.16cm x 30.48cm) rectangular ruler for cutting, trimming, and squaring up pieces.

Batting

This is the warm layer that goes in between the quilt top and backing fabric. It provides warmth and creates texture to the top when quilted. I prefer Quilters Dream^® batting and alternate between 100% cotton and 80/20 cotton/poly blend. Natural fibers help the cotton quilting fabric stick to the batting, making it easier to keep the fabric from bunching, especially if you are quilting on your home machine.

One other consideration for batting is color. It comes in natural, white, and black. I use white batting if there are white or gray neutrals in my quilt. I like the look of bleached white batting behind these colors. When I am working with a very dark or black background, I opt for black polyester batting. Occasionally bits of batting will get pushed through the quilting stitches and if you use black batting, you will never see it.

Quilting Fabric

When you start quilting, buy the best fabric you can afford. It will be well worth it in the end. Quilt shop quality cotton is always worth the money because the thread count is higher, the fabric holds its shape, and it’s usually softer.

To choose your fabric, start by finding a focal print that you love. Then pick supporting prints that complement the focal fabric. One great way to find coordinating colors is to choose prints from one fabric line. Most lines have 12 to 24 coordinating prints so you can’t go wrong.

When I’m planning a scrappy quilt, I often choose two colors and raid my stash for fabrics that work in that theme. (Of course, if you’re just starting to quilt, you may not have this option.) I recommend buying a neutral to tie them all together. Neutral doesn’t mean white or tan. One of the quilts in this book uses lime green as a neutral.