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ОглавлениеINTRODUCTION
Twice as big as the United Kingdom and four-fifths the size of Texas, France is a country rich in diverse landscapes and beautiful scenery, offering some of the best cycle touring in the world.
The routes in this guidebook have been specifically selected to give cycle tourists a taste of eight individual areas of France. Whether you want to tackle some of the steep mountain climbs of the Tour de France, or simply cycle alongside meandering rivers overlooked by hill villages and châteaux in the Dordogne and Lot, there is something here for everyone. The rugged, rocky coastline of Finistère and the magical, mythical woods near Huelgoat in Brittany; the vineyards and battlefields of the Marne, and beautiful forests of Retz and Compiègne in Picardy; the lavender fields and olive groves of Provence; the Route des Vins d'Alsace near the border with Germany; the volcanic Auvergne and wild Cévennes in the Massif Central – there is wonderful cycling country wherever you decide to go.
The eight routes – ranging from 209km (131 miles) to 354km (221 miles) in length – have been divided into several stages. Newcomers to cycle touring or cycling in France may wish to consider Routes 1, 2, 3, 5 (excluding the optional climb of Mont Ventoux) and 7, since none exceeds 2000m in total ascent, and all offer a splendid introduction to the country. Routes 6 and 8 (and the climb to Mont Ventoux in Route 5) will appeal to cycle tourists who are looking for more challenging rides in more remote or mountainous parts of France. Route 4 is reserved for those who want to attempt some of the classic Alpine climbs of the Tour de France, involving nearly 6000m of ascent between Geneva and Grenoble with some steep inclines at altitude.
Which Route and When to Go
Route 1 Finistère, ‘the End of the World’: Brittany
Character and terrain
This circular tour starts in Morlaix and heads north to Carantec and the Ile Callot (an island that can only be reached during low tides) before veering west across undulating farmland to Le Folgoët, which has one of the finest Gothic basilica in Brittany. The route then follows the rugged, rocky coastline of northwest Finistère down to the most westerly point of France, the Pointe de Corsen, crossing steep-sided, narrow estuaries, known locally as Les Abers. Follow the coast road round to Brest, cross the Rade de Brest by ferry to Le Fret and cycle the length of the Crozon peninsula to Le Faou. The route then becomes fairly hilly as it continues east across the Parc Naturel Régional d'Armorique to Huelgoat and its fascinating forest. From Huelgoat head north to return to Morlaix.
Best time to visit
Spring and summer.
Northwest France suffers more rain than anywhere else in the country because of the proximity of the Atlantic Ocean. The blustery weather that whips its way up the English Channel separating France from the UK has shaped the rugged Breton coastline. On a fine day (and there are many in Brittany!) this is an enchanting corner of the country. Spring and summer are generally mild, despite the occasional downpour, and some Summers can get unusually hot. July is usually the driest month, followed by June and August. It is often damp, misty and rainy from October through to March. Coastal campsites can get quite full from mid-July to mid-August.
Route 2 Champagne and The Kings' Forest: the Marne Valley and Picardy
Character and terrain
Leaving from Paris CDG airport you immediately cycle across undulating farmland to Vareddes and the tranquil Canal de l'Ourcq. Once Charly-sur-Marne is reached you are on the Route Touristique du Champagne, following the wide Marne Valley with its vineyard-covered slopes all the way to Dormans. Here you will find the magnificent Mémorial des Deux Batailles de la Marne, a huge memorial chapel dedicated to the war dead on the battlefields of the Marne.
From Dormans head north across more undulating farmland to visit the Oise-Aisne American Cemetery, the second largest World War I American military cemetery in Europe. The route soon turns west towards the beautiful Retz Forest, home to a wonderful variety of fauna including deer, rabbits, hares, foxes, pheasants and even wild boar. Some historic buildings follow: the house in Villers-Cotterêts where Alexandre Dumas, author of The Three Musketeers, was born; the Donjon de Vez and the Abbaye de Lieu-Restauré in the Automne Valley; the Notre Dame church of Morienval, one of the earliest and finest Gothic churches in France; and finally the immense château of Pierrefonds.
The route then follows a splendid cycle path through the Forest of Compiègne to Compiègne itself, then runs on to the Clairière de l'Armistice site where the World War I Armistice was signed, before returning through the forest to Pierrefonds.
Best time to visit
Late spring, summer, and harvest time in autumn.
Driest months are normally April and August. Winters are cold, and night temperatures stay low until late April. If you plan on camping it might be better to visit in spring or late summer/early autumn as there are few campsites in this part of France – otherwise book in advance for summer.
Above Celliers Dessus on the climb to the Col de la Madeleine (Route 4)
Route 3 The Wine Road and Bas-Rhin: Alsace
Character and terrain
Setting off from the city of Colmar, you soon cycle along the celebrated Route des Vins d'Alsace – the Alsace Wine Road – to Barr, passing through typically quaint Alsatian villages surrounded by vineyards. From Barr the route passes through beautiful woods and climbs up through the Forêt de Haslach to Wangenbourg before a long descent to Saverne. Once more the countryside opens up as you follow the Marne–Rhine Canal from Saverne, then cross flat farmland via a charming cycle path and skirt the southern edge of the forested Vosges du Nord Regional Natural Park all the way to Niederbronn-les-Bains. A wonderful ride up into the Forêt de Niederbronn follows with a visit to the ruined Château de Fleckenstein, situated literally a stone's throw from Germany. Another cycle path, this time through pretty woodland, leads from Lembach to Woerth, after which the path crosses open countryside before a pleasant ride through another forest to Haguenau.
Best time to visit
Summer, and harvest time in autumn.
May and June are normally the wettest months. Winters are cold, and it quite often snows until early spring in the high, forested hills of the Vosges, situated to the west of Colmar and Strasbourg.
Route 4 An Alpine Experience
Character and terrain
Starting in Geneva and finishing in Grenoble, this route crosses Haute-Savoie with a gradual ascent up the Gorge des Eveaux and scenic climbs to the Col du Marais and Col de Tamié before reaching Albertville, home to the Winter Olympics in 1992. The first of three tough climbs encountered on the Tour de France awaits you, to the Col de la Madeleine (2000m above sea level). A giant descent to the Arc Valley is then followed by another magnificent climb to the Col de la Croix de Fer (2067m) with splendid mountain views. The third and final climb is the unforgiving l'Alpe d'Huez (with 21 hairpin bends). As a reward there is a refreshing 25km descent to Vizille with a visit to its grand château, and from there on to Grenoble.
Best time to visit
Summer.
Snow lingers above 3000m throughout the year, and late snowfalls often block high mountain passes well into June. If attempting this route in June, find out whether the passes are open by visiting the local information offices. The valleys are often hot in July and August, while up in the mountains it is noticeably cooler. As with all high mountain ranges the weather in the French Alps can be quite changeable in summer, so be prepared for the occasional thunderstorm. September is normally drier than June, July or August.
Route 5 The Land of Lavender: Provence
Character and terrain
Provence is a colourful patchwork of lavender fields, olive groves, cherry orchards and vineyards, a fabulous part of France for cycle touring. Starting in the historic city of Arles this route visits Alphonse Daudet's windmill and Les Baux-de-Provence before heading east to the spectacular hill village of Gordes and the Abbaye de Sénanque. A tour around Mont Ventoux and the option of cycling up to its summit follows, then a scenic 20km descent down the Gorges de la Nesque to Villes-sur-Auzon and thereafter to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
Best time to visit
Late spring to early July, then September to mid-October.
Arles (Route 5)
The south of France, protected by the Pyrénées, is hot in summer and mild in winter. Inland temperatures often reach the mid-30s in summer, so most tourists head for the cooling waters of the Mediterranean. June and July are normally the driest months. Provence often experiences a strong wind, the Mistral, which blows from north to south along the Rhône Valley and is responsible for the ‘lunar’ landscape of the summit slopes of Mont Ventoux, the Windy Mountain.
Route 6 Meadows and Mountains: Pyrénées
Character and terrain
Crossing the heart of the French Pyrénées from east to west, this route starts in Foix, dominated by its imposing château ruins. From here cycle across lush, quiet countryside and through the giant cave known as Grotte du Mas d'Azil to St Girons. High, rolling hills follow as you continue west to St Bertrand-de-Comminges with its landmark cathedral dominating the valley down which the River Garonne flows north from the high Pyrénées. A gradual ascent to Arreau up the Vallée d'Aure is followed by a climb to the Col d'Aspin (1489m) before a long descent to Bagnères-de-Bigorre and on to Lourdes. Follow the long cyclepath that runs from Lourdes to Pierrefitte-Nestalas, ‘La Voie Verte des Gaves’. If you want to try one of the big Tour de France climbs the optional Stage 6 up the scenic Val d'Azun to the Col d'Aubisque provides a spectacular finale.
Best time to visit
June to September.
The mountainous Pyrénées, although not as high as the Alps, can also experience fickle weather conditions in summer, so be prepared for the odd afternoon thunderstorm in July and August. High mountain passes are often not open until late May/early June due to late snowfalls in the spring. July is normally the driest month.
Route 7 Rivers and Castles: Dordogne and Lot
Character and terrain
This circular tour starts in Brive-la-Gaillarde and heads south, crossing the River Dordogne to the charming villages of Carennac and Autoire with their clusters of typically medieval Quercynois houses with brown-tiled turreted roofs, dovecots and towers. The castles of Castelnau-Bretenoux and Montal are visited before an ascent through lovely woods to Figeac.
From Figeac cycle alongside the unspoilt River Célé for almost 50km to its meeting with the River Lot and the magnificent hill village of St Cirq-Lapopie. Follow the Lot west through Cahors and Luzech with vineyards bordering the river, then cycle across hilly country to the massive castle of Bonaguil and the bastide town of Monpazier before once again crossing the Dordogne. Travelling east along its northern bank you encounter yet more impressive castles and some of the most beautiful villages in France, before eventually reaching Souillac and taking a short train ride back to Brive-la-Gaillarde.
Best time to visit
Spring, or late summer to autumn.
The Dordogne and Lot are very popular areas for summer holidays with both French and foreign tourists, so book accommodation in advance if visiting in July or August. Spring and autumn are generally mild seasons for cycle touring in southwest France, but winters can be quite cold. June and July are normally the driest months.
Route 8 Rugged and Remote: Auvergne and Languedoc
Character and terrain
Starting from Meymac, on the edge of the high Plateau des Millevaches in the départment of Corrèze, ride southeast, crossing the River Dordogne and cycling up into the Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne. This is the largest Nature Park in France: a vast, open, rugged landscape of high, rolling hills and extinct volcanoes. Continuing southeast to the hill town of St Flour cross the Truyère river below the immense Viaduc de Garabit railway viaduct and cycle into Lozère, the least populated of France's 96 départments. Here you leave one region for another, the Auvergne for Languedoc.
Parc National des Cévennes (Route 8)
Cycle down the remote Vallée d'Enfer and pass through Marvejols, crossing another of France's great rivers, the Lot, before climbing to the barren plateau known as the Causse de Sauveterre. A descent into the spectacular Gorges du Tarn, one of the most beautiful canyons in Europe, is followed by another climb to the Corniche des Cévennes which grants splendid panoramas of the surrounding Parc National des Cévennes – wild and remote, rich in flora and fauna. This marks the southern end of the great Massif Central, and the route ends with a long descent to St Jean-du-Gard and then on to Alès.
Best time to visit
Late summer and early autumn.
The weather can be changeable, with some summers decidedly hotter or wetter than others. Driest months are normally July and August. Winters are usually long and very cold, with snow lingering on higher ground until the spring.
The following table gives average monthly temperatures in degrees Centigrade for each of the routes.
A Short History
Major evidence of human settlement in France dates from around 25000BC, most noticeably traces of the Cro-Magnon people (as they became known) who lived from the Upper Palaeolithic to the Neolithic Age. Their cave paintings were discovered in Périgord, those in the Grotte de Lascaux being perhaps the most famous. The first Megalithic sites appeared in Brittany – a region peppered with dolmens and menhirs – around 5700BC. From about 1200BC several peoples – including the Celts from Britain and Ireland – came and settled in what is now known as France.
Gaul (as the Romans called it) became part of Julius Caesar's Roman Empire in the 1st century BC and remained so for 500 years until the Franks, a Germanic tribe led by Clovis I, conquered the fertile land between the Loire and the Somme in AD486. Clovis chose Paris (just another little town on the map at that time) as his capital at the turn of the 6th century. Roman Catholicism became the main religion, with Clovis declaring himself a Christian. Frankish society was subsequently converted, with the Franks (from whom ‘France’ derives) pushing southwards through Aquitaine as far as the Pyrénées.
In the mid-8th century the Carolingian dynasty came to power, with Pepin the Short being crowned king by the Pope. It was his successor, Charlemagne, who reunited the Frankish domains of Roman Gaul of old in 771. Charlemagne was crowned Emperor of the Roman Empire by Pope Leo III in 800. In 843 this empire was divided between his grandsons into the West Frankish Kingdom, the Middle Frankish Empire and the East Frankish Kingdom. During the 9th century France was often attacked by Norsemen (from Scandinavia) who eventually settled in Normandy; two centuries later, in 1066, William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy, conquered England.
In 987, when the last Carolingian successor died, Hugues Capet was elected as the first of 13 kings of France by a select group of powerful provincial governors. This Capetian dynasty lasted until 1328, nine years before the start of the Hundred Years' War between France and England. However, large parts of France were under English rule from the second half of the 12th century, as a result of Eleanor of Aquitaine divorcing Louis VII of France and marrying Henry Plantagenet of Normandy, who soon became Henry II of England.
A significant battle during the Hundred Years' War took place in 1415 when Henry V of England defeated the French at Agincourt. The tides turned 14 years later when that celebrated leader of the French armies, Jeanne d'Arc (Joan of Arc), defeated the English at Orléans, leading to the coronation of Charles VII at Reims. Unfortunately Jeanne d'Arc fell into the hands of the Burgundians (allies of the English), and she was burnt at the stake by the English in 1431. News of her martyrdom spread, however, and inspired the French to fight on, resulting in the English finally being driven out of France in 1453.
Ossuaire du Vieux Bourg de Quimerc'h (Route 1)
The War of Religions between Protestants and Catholics in France started in 1562 and lasted for more than 30 years. During this war Henri III was assassinated and France saw her first Bourbon king, Henri IV, who helped bring about reconciliation and played an important role in the Edict of Nantes (which formalised the tolerance of Protestantism) in 1598.
France was ruled by just two kings for nine-tenths of the 17th century, Louis XIII and Louis XIV, the latter ascending the throne at the very early age of five and ruling for 72 years until 1715. Cardinals served both kings, Cardinal Richelieu for Louis XIII being the best known. France became a powerful state during this century (despite costly wars and deteriorating home economic conditions), mostly due to gaining territory overseas, thereby opening up profitable trading routes. However, in the Seven Years' War (1752–63) France lost most of her colonies to the English, and monarchy and parliament became increasingly divided. On 14 July 1789 the Bastille was stormed; the French Revolutionaries toppled the king, Louis XVI, and the Ancien Régime was destroyed. The unfortunate Louis XVI and his queen, Marie Antoinette, were executed in 1793, the year after the monarchy was abolished and the First Republic established.
In 1804 Napoleon Bonaparte had himself crowned Emperor of France, 19 years after becoming an officer of the French army. His own armies conquered most of Europe by 1810, but two years later, hoping to extend his control of territory to Russia and beyond, his forces reached Moscow. A harsh winter forced them to retreat. A vast number of troops died on the long, cold return home, resulting in Napoleon Bonaparte's abdication in 1814. Twice exiled, he eventually died on the South Atlantic island of St Helena in 1821.
Ironically it was to be his nephew, Louis-Napoleon, who led a coup in 1851 and proclaimed himself Emperor Napoleon III after the establishment of the Second Republic. During the 1850s France prospered both economically and industrially, but the Franco-Prussian War in 1870 was Napoleon III's downfall and he was defeated, resulting in a Third Republic. France also lost Alsace and most of Lorraine to Germany as a result of this war, only regaining them at the end of World War I (1914–18). A Fourth Republic began in 1946 after World War II (1939–45), and women were finally given the vote. The Fifth Republic was formed in 1958 under the leadership of President Charles De Gaulle who remained in power until 1969, the year before his death. François Mitterrand, leader of the Socialist Party, won the presidential election in 1981 and stayed in power for 14 years, thus becoming the longest-serving president in France's history to date. In 1993 France, together with 11 other members of the European Community, ratified the Treaty on European Union and so became one of the EU countries. A year later the Channel Tunnel was completed, linking France with England.
The château of Foix (Route 6)
Getting There
From the UK and Ireland
Flying to France is much cheaper now than a decade ago. The number of budget airlines has grown at such a rate that the major airlines have found it hard to compete and have reduced their fares accordingly. Budget airlines include:
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com)
Easyjet (www.easyjet.com)
Flybe (www.flybe.com)
Thomsonfly (www.thomsonfly.com)
Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com)
bmi/British Midland (www.flybmi.com)
The major airlines include British Airways (www.ba.com) and Air France (www.airfrance.com).
The following table indicates the start points of the eight routes, the nearest airport to each, and which airlines fly there from the UK.
If flying to the nearest airport to the start of a route is not feasible, another option is to fly to Paris and travel on to your destination from the capital. The journey onward from Paris airports to central Paris is described below. From here you can take a train to your final destination.
Further information regarding travel to the start points is given at the beginning of each route description, as well as a few alternative airports located further away than those listed above.
Val d'Azun (Route 6)
Most airlines now stipulate that your bike goes in a bike bag, and UK airlines may charge £15–£20 for a bike on a single flight. They will want the tyres fully deflated, pedals removed, and handlebars turned so that they are parallel with the top tube. I recommend bubble-wrapping the derailleurs and any other parts of the bike you cherish, and removing the rear rack which can be used to further protect the rear derailleurs inside the bike bag. You can buy bags through most reputable bike shops in the UK.
If you don't like flying, there are other options. From Ireland, Brittany Ferries (www.brittany-ferries.co.uk) operate one weekly crossing from Cork to Roscoff between April and October, and Irish Ferries (www.irishferries.ie) operate up to three crossings between Rosslare and Roscoff from mid-April to October. These are convenient for those wanting to tackle the Brittany tour (Route 1). Irish Ferries also operate a route between Rosslare and Cherbourg three times a week. Ferry crossings from Ireland take anything from 12–20 hours.
Crossings from England are much shorter. From the south coast Brittany Ferries operate four routes (Portsmouth to St Malo, Portsmouth to Caen-Ouistreham, Poole to Cherbourg and Plymouth to Roscoff) and Condor Ferries (www.condor ferries.com) operate two (Poole to St Malo and Weymouth to St Malo). The Condor ferries are fast, reaching St Malo in five hours. Hoverspeed (www.hoverspeed.com), Sea France (www.seafrance.com) and P&O Ferries (www.poferries.com) operate ferry crossings between Dover to Calais. Foot passengers can take bicycles on all of these (£5–£10 charge). A useful website for information is www.aferry.co.uk.
There are regular train services to Paris from all the French ports mentioned (although some, such as Caen-Ouistreham, require a ride into town to the main station).
Cyclists can also reach France by train from England. The regular Eurostar service (www.eurostar.com) via Ashford International in Kent and the Channel Tunnel departs from St Pancras International and takes about 3 hours to Paris Gare du Nord. Trains run every hour during the week from 5.30am to 7.40pm. You can also get off at Lille (2 hours from St Pancras) and take a high speed TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) to the Paris airport CDG where the Marne and Picardy tour (Route 2) begins. This TGV line bypasses Paris and continues on to the south of France.
It is also possible to travel direct to Avignon (Route 5) in the south of France from St Pancras by Eurostar on Saturdays from the end of May to mid-October, but you need to book well in advance. The direct services operate from St Pancras and Ashford in Kent to and from Avignon Centre station and the journey time is only 6 hours 15 minutes (an hour less from/to Ashford). Tickets can be purchased through the Eurostar contact centre in the UK on 08705 186 186, online at www.eurostar.com, at St Pancras and Ashford International Terminals or through registered agents. Check in at least 1 hour before departure. If you want to travel on other days of the week, you can use Eurostar and connecting TGV services in Paris or Lille to travel to or from Avignon (‘Eurostar Plus’ services). Lille is probably preferable to Paris since you have to get across the centre of Paris for your TGV connection.
You can take your bicycle with you on the Eurostar in a bike bag as long as its dimensions do not exceed 120cm x 90cm together with your panniers, otherwise they advise you to use the registered baggage service which operates between London, Paris, Lille and Brussels Eurostar Terminals. Registered items will be ready for collection within 24 hours of registering them. The charge for a bicycle (tandems not accepted) is £20, and £12 for all baggage up to 30kg. For more information call 08705 850 850 (in the UK). If 10 or more of you travel together a special group luggage service operates between St Pancras, Paris Gard du Nord and Brussels Midi with all your luggage loaded up in a secure compartment on the train that can be collected at your destination. Call 08705 850 850 for more information, or email group.baggage@eurostar.com.
The onward journey from Paris train stations is described below, and information given on taking bicycles on trains in France.
From the United States and Canada
It is possible to fly direct to Paris from about 30 cities in the United States, and from Toronto and Montreal in Canada. Major airlines serving Paris include:
Air Canada (www.aircanada.ca)
Air France (www.airfrance.com)
American Airlines (www.aa.com)
British Airways (www.ba.com)
Continental Airlines (www.continental.com)
Delta Airlines (www.delta.com)
Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com)
United Airlines (www.ual.com)
Delta and Air France also fly direct from JFK to Nice, which would be useful for those wanting to do the Provence tour (Route 5). It is also worth considering flying to other European cities from the US or Canada from where you can easily get connecting flights or trains – London or Frankfurt, for example. Visit www.travelzoo.com for good value flights available from the US and outside Europe.
From Australia and New Zealand
Although it is possible to fly direct to Paris from Sydney and other major cities in Australia, and Auckland in New Zealand, most people prefer to fly to London via Southeast Asia and from there to Paris. It is also possible to fly via the United States, but this is usually more expensive and the journey time is longer.
Getting from Paris airports to central Paris
Cycling into Paris from either of her two airports is not recommended. To reach central Paris it would be best to leave your bike in its bag and make use of the regular transport services mentioned below. Once in central Paris, you can then either reach the relevant railway station for your onward journey by taxi or on your bike. Air France buses go to Gare Montparnasse in central Paris from both airports.
Paris is served by two airports: Charles de Gaulle (CDG) and Orly. The majority of international flights arrive at CDG, situated 23km northeast of the capital. It has two main terminals: CDG1 and CDG2, the latter split into five halls (2A, 2B, 2C, 2D and 2F). The much smaller terminal 3 (formerly T9) is used for seasonal charter flights only. All Air France flights arrive at CDG2, as well as some international flights including Air Canada and Delta, but the majority of international flights arrive at CDG1. The two main terminals are linked by a free bus shuttle service, and there is a train station at CDG2 with an RER line to central Paris. There is also a TGV station at CDG2, enabling you to bypass Paris altogether if you want to go to Lille, Lyon or Avignon. For TGV departures from the Gare Montparnasse in Paris you can take an Air France bus from CDG (1 hour), or for central Paris jump on a Roissybus (RATP service); buses leave from both terminals. Taxis cost about 40 euros to central Paris from either terminal. Air France operates a bus service between CDG and Orly airports.
Orly airport is situated 15km south of Paris and has two terminals, Sud and Ouest. Air France's domestic flights go to most French cities from Orly, with fewer routes from CDG. Some international and charter flights arrive at Orly Sud from where there are several options to reach central Paris. Air France buses (Door K) stop at Montparnasse en route to central Paris, and Orlybus (Door H) will take you to the metro/RER station of Denfert-Rochereau not far from Montparnasse. Buses leave every 15 minutes and the journey takes about 30 minutes. There are also shuttle buses (navettes) to the RER (suburban railway) station of Pont de Rungis (line C) from where you can take a train to Gare d'Austerlitz, or a shuttle train (Orlyval) which connects the two terminals with the RER station of Antony (line B) from where you can take a train to central Paris. Taxis cost about 35 euros. It is possible to walk from Orly Sud to Ouest if you are taking a domestic flight from the latter. Air France also operates a bus service between Orly and CDG. Visit www.adp.fr for more information about both airports.
Getting from Paris train stations to your destination
There are six principal train stations in Paris:
Gare du Nord: TGV Nord trains, and trains for northern France
Gare Montparnasse: TGV Atlantique trains, and trains heading west
Gare de Lyon: TGV Sud-Est trains, and trains heading southeast
Gare St Lazare: trains for Normandy
Gare de l'Est: trains for the east
Gare d'Austerlitz: trains for the southwest.
A TGV Est line is under construction. The whole railway network in France is run by the SNCF (Société Nationale des Chemins de Fer).
If you have taken the Eurostar to Gare du Nord and you need to reach one of the other main stations in Paris you will either have to carry your bike in its bag and panniers on the Métro, or assemble your bike and cycle across the capital's centre. The latter option is far more interesting as you get to see some of Paris and don't have to worry about turnstiles, escalators and stairs. If, however, you need to get across Paris quickly to catch your next train, take a taxi that will accommodate you and all your gear.
The table above indicates which train station in Paris you need for the onward train journey to the start point of a given route. Further information regarding travel to the start points is also given at the beginning of each route description.
Bicycles on Trains in France
You can put your bicycle on most TER (regional trains), Corail and Transilien trains, without charge. There will either be a specific carriage/luggage van (fourgon à bagages) or a compartment with a designated area for three or four bikes (éspace vélo). The latter may involve hanging your bike from a hook in the ceiling. They are usually to be found near the end of the train, if not the last carriage itself. Double-decker trains usually do not have a designated compartment for bicycles, and you can just wheel them into any 2nd class carriage at the platform conductor's discretion. On older trains you need to look out for the luggage van with the metal roller shutter door which may be locked from the inside, so make sure you've introduced yourself to the platform conductor beforehand who should assist in getting it opened. I recommend taking the rear panniers off, as you may either have to get the bike through a narrow doorway or lift it up into the luggage van. If there are two of you, it's easier if one gets in the van and pulls the bikes up. Some trains have a bicycle symbol painted on the outer door of the designated carriage. Contacting the platform conductor is important as he or she often allows you to take your bike on a slow train that stops at every station but does not have a bike carriage or designated area.
If you pick up the relevant timetable leaflet at the station, check the top/bottom of each regional train column for the little bicycle symbol which indicates that you can take your bike on certain trains free of charge without having to dismantle it (transport de vélo gratuit). On some trains you may have to pay a réservation supplémentaire of 10 euros and travel in 2nd class, but still not have to dismantle the bike. This is the case with TGV Lyria trains between Lausanne, Zurich and Paris, as well as most Corail Lunéa and Corail Téoz trains between Paris and Clermont-Ferrand, Paris and Strasbourg, and Paris and Toulouse. Occasionally, in rural areas, a bus service (autocar) is used to connect certain stations at certain times – look for the bus symbol on the train timetable.
For TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) trains in general, and many daytime trains (especially between 7am and 9am) run by Corail, you will have to dismantle your bike and put it in a bike bag (housse à vélo) no bigger than 120cm x 90cm. There are designated luggage holds or racks on these trains, but it is a good idea to get on before everyone else, as there is nothing short of a rugby scrum as people try to get their luggage in the designated area before departure.
Trains and bicycles
You could, alternatively, send your bike on ahead by going to a SERNAM depot, which may or may not be located near a French railway station. SERNAM is the trucking company associated with the French railway system that will box your bike and deliver it to your chosen depot for about 40 euros within 48 hours. You can phone 08 25 84 58 45 to locate your nearest depot, for other information, and to pay the delivery charge by credit card. You can also pay for this service when you buy your train ticket at the station, or at a SERNAM depot. However, it is important to bear in mind that the depots are usually only open from 8am to 5pm, Monday to Friday, with only major depots open on Saturday mornings. They are closed Sundays and public holidays. As some depots are situated some distance from a town's railway station you will have to take alternative transport to reach the station.
I prefer to be on the same train as my bike and keep an eye on it whenever the train stops – that way it will reach your destination when you do, and you are ready to start your tour without any hitches.
For timetables and further information visit www.ter-sncf.com for regional networks, or www.voyages-sncf.com for train journeys from one region to another.
Roads
The condition of French roads varies considerably. One moment you may be cycling along a recently resurfaced road with a cycle lane – the next you are avoiding potholes on a bumpy stretch of cracked asphalt! The reason for this is usually a régional, départmentale or communale one. In effect, there are three levels of local government.
Near Gabre (Route 6)
France is divided into 22 regions, sub-divided into 96 départments, and these are, in turn, sub-divided into about 36,000 local communes – the equivalent of a parish or borough. The regional councils are responsible for Autoroutes (motorways) and Routes Nationales (main trunk roads), often marked on maps and road signs as ‘N’ or ‘RN’ roads. Bicycles are not allowed on Autoroutes, which are marked as ‘A’ roads and their road signs are blue. ‘D’ roads are the responsibility of the départmentale councils and are quieter secondary roads, while ‘C’ roads are rural roads that the local commune looks after (or not, depending on funding). Most of the roads covered in this guidebook are in good condition or have recently been resurfaced, many with cycle lanes or paths running alongside them. It is also not uncommon to discover, for example, that the D77 (that you have been cycling along) suddenly becomes the D52 for no apparent reason. This is probably due to you having crossed the boundary line between départments.
Apart from always remembering to cycle on the right side of the road, it is important to take care at roundabouts which come in all shapes and sizes and spring up all over the place. Do not be surprised to find that a junction mentioned in this guidebook is now a mini roundabout – the French love building them. Traffic already on a roundabout has the right of way. You will often see signs indicating that you do not have right of way (vous n'avez pas la priorité) or that you must give way (cédez le passage). At junctions, traffic coming from the right has right of way (priorité à droite), even if they are on a minor road. Traffic on these roads, however, must give way to you if they have a stop sign. You know you have right of way if you see the sign with a yellow diamond inside a white one.
If a road has a cycle lane or path, you must use it. Drivers do not take kindly to cyclists who ignore a cycle path and hold up traffic on a narrow stretch of road. A cycle path (piste cyclable) is usually indicated by a white bicycle symbol on a blue background, or could be a narrow green track with a white bicycle symbol painted on it. A cycle lane (usually about a metre wide) will run along the extreme right of the road and also has a bicycle symbol painted on it.
As cycling is a national sport in France, the vast majority of drivers are very considerate, will give you a wide berth and may honk to let you know they are coming up behind. Strangely, I have discovered that in some parts of France you can cycle for days without anyone honking you, but in other parts nearly every car or truck will hit the horn. Don't get the hump if they do – they mean well. Many disused railway lines have now been turned into well-surfaced cycle paths and I have included several of them in the tours.
Maps
The blue IGN (Institut Geographic National) 1:100,000 Carte Topographique Top 100 maps are highly recommended for the tours in this guide. There are 74 in all, covering the whole of France. They are detailed maps complete with contour lines, aimed especially at cyclists and walkers. Most good bookshops can order them in, or you can buy them online at www.stanfords.co.uk or www.mapsworldwide.com.
This is a list of the relevant map numbers for the tours in this guidebook:
Brittany tour 13 (Brest/Quimper), 14 (St Brieuc/Morlaix)
Marne Valley and Picardy tour 09 (Paris/Laon)
Alsace tour 12 (Strasbourg/Forbach), 31 (St Dié/Mulhouse/Basle)
Alps tour 45 (Annecy/Lausanne), 53 (Grenoble/Mont Blanc), 54 (Grenoble/Gap)
Provence tour 60 (Cavaillon/Digne les Bains), 66 (Avignon/Montpellier), 67 (Marseille/Carpentras)
Pyrénées tour 70 (Pau/Bagnères de Luchon), 71 (St Gaudens/Andorre)
Dordogne and Lot tour 48 (Périgueux/Tulle), 57 (Cahors/Montauban)
Auvergne and Languedoc tour 49 (Clermont-Ferrand/Aurillac), 58 (Rodez/Mende), 59 (Privas/Alès)
Michelin publish the very useful France 1:200,000 Motorist and Motoring Atlas, updated annually. It covers the whole of France, indicates most recommended campsites, and includes some city and town maps. The campsites in this atlas are described in detail in Michelin's Camping Caravaning le guide, which is also updated annually.
Passports, Visas, Health and Insurance
At present, citizens of the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand do not need an entry visa for France for stays up to 90 days, only a full passport. If you intend to stay longer than three months you need to apply for a visa in your home country before reaching France. Citizens from European Union countries can travel freely in France (passport, or identity card, depending on issuing country) for up to three months, but should officially apply for a carte de séjour if wishing to stay any longer than this. South African citizens need to apply for a short-stay visa up to three months. For information regarding visa requirements for entering France from any country in the world visit www.diplomatie.gouv.fr. For Embassy and Consulate addresses, websites and relevant information regarding visas, passports, emergencies and so on see Appendix F.
Citizens of all European Union and Scandinavian countries are entitled to take advantage of French health services under the same terms as residents, providing they have the correct documentation. British citizens need to have a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC); apply online via the Department of Health website, or call 0845 606 2030 for an application form. You can also pick one up at major post offices. North American and other non-European Union citizens have to pay for most medical attention, so it would be prudent to consider travel insurance.
The Donjon de Vez (Route 2)
Any hospital visit, doctor's consultation and prescribed medicine incur a charge, which could be expensive. If you are unwell you can visit a local GP/doctor (un médecin) who nearly always speaks some English and charges about 25 euros, regardless of nationality. Most pharmacies (look for a blinking green neon cross above a shop) can give you the name and address of a GP nearby, or look under Médecins Qualifiés in the local Yellow Pages. To see a GP outside business hours or at weekends you will have to locate the doctor on call (médecin de garde) in the immediate area. Either dial the number 15 (SAMU – French Emergency Health Service/Paramedics number) and await the operator, or check in the local newspaper, which should list the doctor on call and out-of-hours pharmacy (pharmacie de garde) for that given week. A closed pharmacy will display the address of the nearest open pharmacy, daytime or evening. In serious emergencies you will always be admitted to the nearest hospital. The local fire brigade is not averse to helping out in an emergency either, so remember the phone number 18. Dialling 15 or 18 are free of charge, as is 17 for the police.
French pharmacies do not stock most medicines on shelves accessible to the general public (as is the case in the United States); you have to ask for a specific medicine at the counter. It would be wise to write down particulars of any prescription medication you take on a daily basis before leaving for France, in case of any unforeseen emergency while you are there. If you pick up a mystery illness or suffer badly from an allergy while in France, try to explain the symptoms as best you can to a pharmacist who will recommend a medication.
Travel insurance is an important consideration even if you are a citizen of a European Union country. Apart from medical problems other ugly things can spoil your holiday such as theft, loss of baggage and other items, and serious injury causing a long spell in hospital (to name but three). Check your home insurance cover before splashing out on another policy – some will cover loss of possessions abroad. Often, policies can be tailor-made to suit your trip. If you do take full medical coverage, it is worth checking if any treatment received would be paid for during your stay or only after returning home. As regards baggage cover, check that the maximum payout per item lost or stolen is more than your most valuable possession. You must obtain an official statement from the police should you be unfortunate enough to have anything stolen; if you need to make a claim you should keep receipts for any medicines and medical treatment. Similarly, American and Canadian citizens should also check to see that they're not already covered, so study the small print in home health plans. Students and teachers visiting France may often be entitled to certain health benefits.
Money, Banks and Payphones
The euro is the only currency in France now, having replaced the French franc in 2002. Banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euro denominations and coins in 1 and 2 euro denominations, as well as 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cent denominations (1 euro = 100 cents).
Banks are generally open from 9am to 4pm or 5pm from Monday to Friday, but some close for lunch, typically from midday to 2pm, especially in southern France where they may also be closed on Monday. Some banks open Saturday morning, especially if they are closed Monday. No bank is open on Sunday and they all close early the day before a holiday, often as early as midday.
French ATMs/cashpoints can be found outside and sometimes inside banks: look for the sign of a hand holding a card. In France there are now ATMs that let you select your language, but the code pads are numeric only. Most credit and debit cards are accepted, but you will probably be charged interest from the moment you withdraw cash using a credit card, while with a debit card you will be charged about 2 percent of the total withdrawn. Taking travellers' cheques with you to France is another option. These can be cashed in banks, but you will need your passport for identification purposes.
You need a phonecard (télécarte) to make a call from a payphone (cabine téléphonique). Phonecards, in 50 or 120 units, can be purchased at a tabac shop or post office (la poste), and some other places which display a sign ‘télécarte en vente ici’. The top left button on the payphone (usually two flags and an arrow) allows you to choose between five languages in the LCD display: French (Décrochez), English (Please lift receiver), German (Bitte abheben), Spanish (Descuelgue) and Italian (Sganciare). Lift the receiver and wait for a dialling tone, then insert the phonecard with the chip and arrow topside and front of the card, and dial the required number when instructed. The units on the card will count down in the LCD once you are connected. Replace the receiver at the end of your call and remove the phonecard. Some payphones may also allow you to use a credit card. To phone the UK, call 00 44 (the IDD and country code), then the area code without the first zero, and then the local number. For the US and Canada call 001 + area code + number; for Australia call 0061 + area code minus zero + number.
Public Holidays
New Year's Day (1 January)
Easter Sunday and Monday
Ascension Day (40 days after Easter)
Whitsun (seventh Sunday after Easter) and Whit Monday
Labour Day (1 May)
VE Day (8 May)
Bastille Day (14 July)
Assumption Day (15 August)
All Saints' Day (1 November)
Armistice Day (11 November)
Christmas Day (25 December)
Banks, shops, museums and so on are closed for these public holidays. It is not uncommon for Ascension Day and Whitsun/Whit Monday to be in May, meaning four public holidays in this month alone. The French generally take their summer holiday in the first two weeks of August.
French Food and Wine
For a diversity of delicious dishes and wonderful, world-renowned wines, look no further than France. Each region can proudly profess to be able to rustle up a wide variety of culinary delights, be they based around shellfish in Brittany, truffles and foie gras in Dordogne, or olives and aubergines in Provence. Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne immediately spring to mind when we think of French wine, but there are several other excellent wine-growing areas such as Alsace, the Loire and Rhône Valleys, Provence, the southwest of France and Languedoc-Roussillon, even Jura and Savoie. All large supermarkets stock a wide range of French wines and there is always a good choice to be found on restaurant menus, but why not sample the local wine if you're cycling past all those vineyards? Look out for roadside signs with the word dégustation (wine tasting) on them. It's not obligatory to buy a bottle after sampling the wine produced by a small cave or château, but it you would be putting money into the local community, even if it's only a few euros. And if one of the bottle cages on your bike frame is empty…
Violet Provençal garlic
If you want to sample and buy some local produce the best place to go is the local market (marché) which usually happens on one particular morning each week. Local traders set up their stalls and sell anything from cheese and meat and fruit to cooking utensils and clothing, but look out for the local speciality foods. There will usually be a van or stall offering hot food, often a regional dish.
Along the Route des Vins d'Alsace (Route 3)
If you are not fortunate enough to be in a village or town on market day, then head for the boulangerie, the baker's shop. Every sizeable village has one selling bread rolls and baguettes, long thin loaves that the French buy daily to accompany their meals. You can also buy sweet breakfast rolls like croissants, brioches and pains au chocolat, as well as cakes, flans, pizza slices and quiches in some boulangerie shops. On Mondays this may well be the only shop open in a village. Buy a baguette or two and then pop over to the charcuterie, which sells cooked meats, pâtés and sausages. Follow this with a visit to the alimentation or épicerie for cheeses and salad (there may even be a fromagerie, a cheese shop, if you are in a larger settlement), and you have all the ingredients for a cheap, delicious picnic at a roadside aire (a grassy or wooded area with picnic tables) after your morning's cycling. Otherwise, lunch can be taken in a village café or brasserie fairly cheaply; the croque monsieur (toasted cheese and ham sandwich) is nearly always on the menu, as is steak haché avec frites (steak and chips), served with salad or vegetables. There is usually a vegetarian dish or two, and crêpes (rolled pancakes with a choice of fillings) may also be on offer. A buckwheat variety of crêpe called galette is very tasty and is particularly popular in Brittany. The plat du jour (dish of the day) or menu touristique are set meals that can be tasty or bland depending on the establishment or the chef's imagination, and usually appear on a restaurant's menu too. If you decide to eat lunch at a restaurant why not be a little more adventurous and choose something with a local twist. Restaurants are only open for lunch or dinner, whereas cafés, brasseries and bars are open all day and will normally serve food throughout the afternoon. If you are running low on water and the shops are shut you can buy bottled water here too, but it won't be cheap.
Supermarkets are plentiful. In towns and villages you will find a Casino, Huit-à-huit or Coccinelle, mini-supermarkets selling fruit, vegetables, salad, tinned food, water, wine, beer, soft drinks and packaged meat slices and cheese. Unlike bigger supermarkets there are no cheese or meat counters, only shelf items. Intermarché and Ecomarché supermarkets are larger and are usually found in the suburbs of towns or on a main road just outside big villages; they have bread, meat and cheese counters that also offer local produce. Some also sell maps, CDs and other such items. Bigger still are the hypermarkets such as LeClerc found on the outskirts of large towns and in cities which sell everything imaginable, most importantly basic bicycle accessories, tools, inner tubes, and so on. Most supermarkets, regardless of size, are open from 8.30am to 12.30pm and 3pm to 7.30pm, Monday to Saturday (although some are not open on Monday mornings, or not at all on Mondays). Many are open on Sundays from 8.30am to 12 noon. Many big supermarkets, on the whole, do not close for lunch.
Small villages may just have an alimentation which caters for all basic needs regarding food and drink. Although most items are a little more expensive than in supermarkets, these tiny shops are very useful when you might be camping in the middle of nowhere, or need to pick up something for lunch on the road. Generally speaking, if a village has a church it will invariably have an alimentation, boulangerie and probably a boucherie (butcher's shop).
Finally, if you have a sweet tooth or are feeling ‘bonky’ (when blood-sugar levels fall too low and you feel weak and wobbly), there's the pâtisserie shop that sells a delicious, colourful array of cakes, flans and tarts. I will never forget feeling bonky once in the Limousin region and finding a pâtisserie open in Bourganeuf – on a Sunday afternoon! Marvellous.
See the maps marking several regional specialities and major wine regions of mainland France in Appendix D. A brief description of each speciality and wine region is also given.
Greg Lemond and Rob Harmeling (TVM/143), Tour de France 1991
The Tour de France
The first Tour de France – the world's greatest bicycle race – took place in 1903. Created by Henri Desgrange, the editor of L'Auto, and George Lefèvre, the rugby and cycling reporter, to help publicise and improve circulation of this sports newspaper, the first event was a six-stage race covering 2428km. The riders left Paris for Lyon, then cycled on to Marseille, Toulouse, Bordeaux, Nantes, and finally back to Paris. The average stage distance was 405km, which meant the competitors had to cycle nights as well as days! They also had to carry out their own repairs if necessary.
Maurice Garin won that first Tour in front of 20,000 Parisiens, and L'Auto's circulation quadrupled, heralding the birth of something very special. Yet the following year's Tour was almost the last, with many riders cheating by catching trains on occasion and even sabotaging each other's bicycles. Fortunately the organisers decided to stage the race again in 1905 with more concrete rules and they introduced the first mountain stage, the Ballon d'Alsace. Desgrange added a stage through the Pyrénées in 1910, and one in the Alps a year later. By now the Tour had more than doubled in overall distance and number of stages, but the average stage distance was still frighteningly long at 356km.
Immediately after World War I Desgrange introduced the yellow jersey (maillot jaune). He chose this colour for two reasons: the roadside spectators could pick out the race leader easily and, perhaps more significantly, L'Auto was printed on yellow paper. Eugene Christophe was the first man to don the yellow jersey on 18 July 1919. The first Italian to win the Tour – previously dominated by the French and Belgians – was Ottavio Bottecchia in 1924. He notched up another victory the following year. The longest-ever race in Tour history took place in 1926, covering a total distance of 5745km. Such monstrous rides had become a thing of the past by the early 1930s when the Tour was opened to other advertisers, coverage was broadcasted live on the radio, and French riders won the race six years in a row.
Laurent Fignon in the Tour de France 1991
In 1937 the first derailleurs were allowed in the Tour de France. A year later the Italian cyclist Gino Bartali won the Tour, then won it again 10 years later in 1948 at the age of 34. Bartali was physically assaulted on the Col d'Aspin in the Tour of 1950, but went on to win the stage before he and his Italian team-mates (including Fausto Coppi, the 1949 victor) withdrew in protest.
Two of the toughest climbs of the Tour de France were introduced in the early 1950s: Mont Ventoux in 1951 and l'Alpe d'Huez in 1952. Coppi won the first historic stage of l'Alpe d'Huez, and then went on to win the Tour that year. French riders, including Louison Bobet and Jacques Anquetil, dominated the next five Tours, and the great Spanish climber Federico Bahamontes won the 1959 event. Anquetil went on to win four consecutive Tours between 1961 and 1964, becoming the first of only five riders to notch up more than three victories to date. The Tour's second tragic fatality occurred in 1967 when Tom Simpson collapsed near the summit of Mont Ventoux; Francesco Capeda had died on the Galibier in 1935.
The Belgian Eddy Merckx became the second man to win five Tours (1969, 1970, 1971, 1972 and 1974), subsequently matched by Bernard Hinault (1978, 1979, 1981, 1982 and 1985). Laurent Fignon, winner of two Tours, and Greg Lemond, the first American to win a Tour in 1986, battled against each other for victory in Paris in 1989. It came down to the final time-trial in the capital, which Lemond famously won by the slimmest of margins in the history of the Tour de France: 8 seconds!
The early 1990s belonged to one man in particular, Miguel Indurain. He won five Tours in a row from 1991 and 1995 and, like Lemond, was strong in all disciplines. During his reign another American was emerging; Lance Armstrong won a stage in the 1993 and 1995 Tours. Diagnosed with testicular cancer in 1996, Armstrong was given a slim chance of living, since it had also spread to various parts of his body and brain. Following an operation and painful chemotherapy, he fought back with a vengeance and won the 1999 Tour de France. He never looked back, joined the élite club of Anquetil, Merckx, Hinault and Indurain by winning five Tours… and then went two better.
About the Bike
Which bicycle is best for touring?
A touring bike is the obvious answer as it is built specifically for carrying heavy panniers and granting a comfortable ride over long distances with good steering. It has drop handlebars (like a racing bike), but they are set in a more upright position, 700c wheels, and usually a steel frame, mudguards and a triple chain-ring.
Although lighter, a racing bike is not really suited to cycle touring as the frame geometry is more severe and most racing bikes do not come with seatstay lugs for the rear pannier rack (although there are ways of overcoming this). It also does not respond too well to hairpin descents when fully laden with panniers. Having said this, I have done three mountain cycling tours on a bicycle made up of racing bike and hybrid bike components to good effect. The hybrid bike is something between a touring bike and a mountain bike in that it offers the relaxed frame geometry and larger 700c wheels of the touring bike, but has straight or rising handlebars like the mountain bike, at least 21 gears, and a sloping top tube. Cycle tourists who suffer from back or neck pains should definitely ‘test drive’ a hybrid if they are not sure which type of bicycle to choose.
Mountain bikes are robust, affordable and often surprisingly suitable for cycle touring. They usually come with chunky, knobbly tyres which are great for all-terrain adventures, but not suitable for cycle touring on roads. Replace them with slicker, thinner tyres that will reduce the effort you have to exert on paved roads; 26 x 1.5 or 1.75 tyres with good tread are recommended. For mountainous terrain, a triple chain-ring (30/42/52 teeth) together with a Mega-range freewheel/sprocket on the back wheel (11–34 teeth) will get you up the steepest hills imaginable, but smaller range sprockets are usually adequate for most rides.
Folding bikes are becoming increasingly popular for cycle touring, especially if you are also considering using public transport. Brompton and Dahon folding bikes with 20in wheels are sound choices, but make sure you buy one fit for touring (not commuting) and able to carry loaded panniers. There are also folding mountain bikes with 26in wheels. Visit www.foldabikes.com, www.bromptonbicycle.co.uk and www.dahon.com.
If you haven't already got a bicycle for touring, make sure you buy one from a reputable bike shop. They can advise you on the correct frame size for your height. To determine the correct saddle height for a comfortable ride, sit on the bike saddle and line up one of the crankarms with the seat tube, then put your heel on the pedal and adjust the saddle height until your leg is almost straight.
If you plan to camp you will probably need two rear pannier bags, a handlebar bag and a rear rack bag. The rear rack bag is not essential as you can strap gear onto the top of the pannier rack itself (rolled up bike bag and so on), but I find it useful for carrying food, cooking gear, repair kit, spare bike bits and the like. Clothes, tent, sleeping bag and mat can then be put in the rear panniers, leaving the handlebar bag free for valuables. Always line your panniers with durable bin liners to keep everything dry when the heavens open. If these four bags do not suffice, you either need to trim your gear down, or consider front bags, which many cyclists like because they counterbalance the rear panniers.
Make sure you buy a strong, good quality rear rack to take the weight of heavy panniers. Altura make some great bags and their Arran handlebar bag (5 litre) clicks into the Rixen and Kaul quick-release support that can be left permanently attached to the handlebars.
Finally, a frame with two water-bottle carriers is better than a frame that only has one. You can buy still mineral water in 1½ litre plastic bottles at any supermarket or alimentation shop (2 litre bottles are too fat) on a daily basis, rather than having to keep topping up those non-transparent bike bottles which soon make the water taste of plastic.
Repairs
Knowing your bicycle and how to carry out repairs, sometimes in the middle of nowhere, are important considerations in cycle touring. The Bicycling Guide to Complete Bicycle Maintenance and Repair for Road and Mountain Bikes by Todd Downs gives detailed descriptions with photographs covering bicycle basics, maintenance, and all repairs imaginable, and there are many other good, detailed books on the market. Serious repairs, or perhaps the replacement of a component, will inevitably mean visiting the nearest bicycle shop on a tour, but you can usually carry out common repairs yourself on the road. Two of the most common hiccups on a tour are punctures (flats) and broken spokes. Read up on and practise how to remove the freewheel/cassette on your rear wheel before a tour in case you have to replace a broken spoke behind the rear cogs.
Puncture (flat tyre)
If you complete a cycling tour without suffering a single puncture then consider yourself lucky! Since the rear wheel takes most of your weight and the rear pannier weight, it is usually this wheel's inner tube that punctures (and is also the more complicated of the two because of the rear derailleur and chain).
If it's raining, try to find some shelter. Deflate the punctured tyre completely, and if it's a rear tyre puncture turn the bicycle upside down with the saddle on the ground, having removed the panniers. This also protects the rear derailleur from getting damaged.
Puncture repair, Gorges du Tarn (Route 8)
To remove the rear wheel, shift the derailleur to the smallest cog on the freewheel/cassette and innermost front chain ring. Remember where the axle sits in the dropouts. Release the wheel's quick-release (if your bicycle has them), otherwise loosen both nuts either side of the dropouts. Pull the rear derailleur back to allow the cogs to clear the chain. Lift the wheel (you may have to pinch the tyre either side of the brake pads to slip the tyre between them) and pull it forwards to clear the chain and derailleur. If tyres are fat you will probably have to release cantilever brakes or V brakes in order to pull the tyre past the brake pads.
For a front wheel puncture simply deflate the inner tube fully and pull the wheel out between the brake shoes after releasing the quick release or loosening the nuts either side of the dropouts.
Removing the tyre and inner tube: start tyre removal directly opposite the valve area, squeezing the sides of the tyre towards the centre and inserting a tyre lever under the lip of the tyre. Lift this up and over the edge of the wheel's rim, then insert another tyre lever under the edge of the tyre about 3in from the other lever and lift the tyre edge over the rim here too. By sliding and lifting one of the levers sideways, thus releasing more of the tyre's edge, you should soon be able to lift the whole edge of the tyre clear of the wheel's rim on one side.
Pull the inner tube out from inside the tyre, starting opposite the valve area. With most of the tube out now unscrew the nut on the valve and lift the valve out of the valve hole to completely remove the tube from the tyre. Depending on your circumstances, you may now either simply opt to replace the punctured tube with a new one and repair the punctured tube later on at the next campsite or hotel stop, or patch the puncture if you do not have a spare inner tube. Visually check the inside of the tyre and run a thin cloth around its interior, just to be sure there are no sharp objects inside or protruding through the wall that will simply cause another puncture.
If you plan to repair the inner tube, chalk or mark around the hole area after inflating the tube and locating the puncture hole. Next deflate the tube, place it on a flat, clean surface and roughen the puncture area with some sandpaper. Apply a smooth layer of glue around the hole, just slightly bigger in circumference than the repair patch you will attach to it after a few minutes (once the glue has dried and become tacky). Firmly apply a patch that will substantially cover the hole (it will expand when the tube has been inflated) and make sure there are no air bubbles or folds in the patch before inflating the tube. If you suffer a blow out, the hole will usually be too large to repair, so your only option is replacing the inner tube with a spare one.
Happy that the puncture is repaired, deflate the tube and put one side of the tyre's edge inside the wheel's rim, then push the valve back through the valve hole and work the inner tube back inside the tyre. Inflate the inner tube a little and make sure you do not pinch it under the other edge of the tyre when you lift this back over the rim by hand. The final section may require the use of the tyre levers to help flip the remaining tyre edge back inside the wheel's rim; once again, check the tube isn't pinching here before reinflating it. Finally, screw the nut back onto the valve and return the wheel to the dropouts.
Replacing a spoke
If a spoke breaks, try to repair it as soon as possible. Strip the wheel down as described above, so that the rubber strip that runs around the wheel trough is exposed. If the broken spoke's pinhead sits in an eyelet on the hub flange directly behind the freewheel/cassette on the rear wheel, you will have to remove the latter. Remove the nipple of the broken spoke beneath the rubber strip and the spoke itself, paying attention to the way the old spoke is aligned (under or over other spokes). Replace the spoke, threading a new one through the eyelet on the hub flange up to the new nipple, repeating the correct alignment of the old spoke. The pinhead of the curved end of the spoke should sit well in the eyelet. Use a spoke wrench or flathead screwdriver (depending on the nipple head) to tighten the nipple onto the spoke thread. Do not overtighten – the new spoke should ‘ring’ the same as the other spokes when you pluck it.
Occasionally you may not be able to carry out roadside repairs, or need to replace a broken or damaged component, and be a long way from the nearest bicycle shop. If it happens, stand back and review the situation and work out how you can adapt, improvise, overcome. On the Marne and Picardy tour one of my pedals sheared off because I had misthreaded it onto the crankarm before leaving the airport. As I was only a kilometre away from the village of Montreuil-aux-Lions I wheeled my bicycle there in pouring rain and found a garage. I asked the mechanic if he had a long bolt with two locking nuts that could act as a temporary pedal until I reached a good bike shop. He came up trumps, and although it didn't rotate as a pedal does this bolt got me to Château-Thierry, some 30km away, where there was a good bicycle shop. My cycling companion on the Alps tour suffered a stripped thread in the steerer tube resulting in a total loss of steering, but managed three cols before reaching a good bicycle shop in Albertville. He overcame the problem by tightly tying two webbing straps from his handlebars to the fork crown, thereby being able to control front-wheel direction. Whatever the dilemma, there is always a temporary solution.
Appendix A covers most French vocabulary for bicycle parts.
What to Take
When flying to France your hold luggage allowance is generally 20–25kg, and hand luggage is 5–10kg. Your bicycle is accepted as ‘sporting equipment’ and you may be charged for it. A group with four or more bicycles should notify the airline in advance. I've found that the airline check-in staff are somewhat more lenient with the luggage allowance if you check in early for your flight. A few kilograms over the limit might be tolerated, but they can charge you for excess weight. Unless it is too hot to do so, or the flight too long, I recommend wearing any heavy clothes rather than packing them, and putting all valuables in your handlebar bag (if you take one) which can be your hand luggage.
Typical clothing list
