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A: THE CARNEDDAU

Geography lacks the subtlety to describe the Carneddau ridges: their abrupt rise, and gradual fall, in sinuous fingers towards the sea. Ridges on a grand scale; ten mile undulating strips of grass and fine stones, ideally suited to the walker going fast and far. And none of the Glyders’ intricate hollows here; instead these cwms are hours long and thick with nature. But these hills are glorious only for as long as the sun shines. At other times they can be the most mind-numbing, leg-throbbing, body-chilling, toe-stubbing mountains of soil and stone this side of the Scottish border.

Rock climbing takes a back seat. There are many little cliffs dotted about the southern slopes – pleasantly secluded places for sunny afternoons – but nothing of real significance. The few big cliffs are tucked close under the north faces, secure in their shadows yet unbelittled by the vastness of their setting. Craig yr Ysfa, on the Cwm Eigiau shoulder of Carnedd Llewelyn, is the best of them. There are many hard routes here, up the vertical Amphitheatre Walls so well seen from the ridge path above, but also a splendid easy one – Amphitheatre Buttress – on the opposing flank. An early start in full sunshine on this climb out of Cwm Eigiau can be an exhilarating way to begin a walk over the summits.

The north-west ridge of Pen yr Helgi Du from Bwlch Eryl Farchog

Winter transforms the Carneddau into a bleak and hostile wasteland. North winds blow unceasingly over the ridge crests during bad weather, so that a seemingly innocent walk becomes a struggle against time and tiredness. Fresh snow piles deep in intervening hollows, trebling approach times to the gaunt cliffs of Black Ladders and Craig yr Ysfa, now seamed with ice falls and snow gullies. A waiting game begins. Then, after the storm, when the winds have blown the ridges clear of powder, the Carneddau will offer uncomplicated winter traverses across miles of glistening uplands.

The ridge walks described in the following pages represent the Carneddau at their best: great horseshoe circuits penetrating deep into the heartland of the range and linking summit with summit along high ridge crests. Nowhere is the ridge walker’s exalted position more clearly stated.