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STAGE 1

Reading to Woolhampton

Start	Kennet Mouth, Reading (SU 730 738)
Finish	Woolhampton Bridge (SU 572 665)
Distance	20.7km (12¾ miles); cumulative 20.7km (12¾ miles)
Total ascent	100m
Time	5½hr
Map	OS Explorer 159; Heron Maps: Kennet & Avon Canal
Refreshments	Reading, Burghfield Bridge, Theale, Tyle Mill, Aldermaston Wharf, Aldermaston, Woolhampton
Public transport	Railway stations at Reading, Theale, Aldermaston Wharf (Aldermaston station), Woolhampton (Midgham station); bus services at Reading, Burghfield Bridge, Theale, Tyle Mill, Ufton Bridge, Aldermaston Wharf, Woolhampton
Accommodation	Reading, Theale, Sulhamstead, Aldermaston Wharf, Aldermaston
Splitting the stage	The stage may be split after 11.2km (7 miles) at Theale (SU 647 704), where there is a railway station, parking and accommodation.

The first stage along the canal starts out from the River Thames and heads through the hustle and bustle of Reading town centre before passing into a more rural setting. After the M4 motorway, the route passes Garston Lock, one of only two turf-sided locks along the canal; along this part of the route there are several flooded gravel pits. After Theale, the route heads for Aldermaston Wharf, home to a small canal visitor centre and tea room, before continuing to the stage end at Woolhampton, beside the Rowbarge pub. For large parts of the stage, the canal and River Kennet flow as one.

From Reading railway station to the canal

Leave through the north (Caversham) exit, follow the signed walking/cycle route for Christchurch Meadows and Caversham past the bus stops, then across the A329 and along Norman Place to the River Thames. Turn right along the Thames Path for 1.7km to the junction with the canal at Kennet Mouth. Follow the Thames Path over Horseshoe Bridge and turn sharp left, doubling back under the bridge to join the canal heading into Reading.

Reading was once home to a great abbey founded by Henry I in 1121 – now only sections of flint rubble walls remain. The playwright, poet and novelist Oscar Wilde was imprisoned at Reading Gaol in the late 1800s and following his release he wrote The Ballad of Reading Gaol. Reading Museum (0118 937 3400), housed in the Victorian Gothic Town Hall, charts the town’s history and includes Roman artefacts from Calleva Atrebatum and a copy of the Bayeux Tapestry. (Walk 1 takes in the abbey ruins, the site of Reading Gaol, the Town Hall and Museum, and explores other locations in Reading.)

The town is often known for the ‘Three Bs’ of Beer, Bulbs and Biscuits, relating to three former industries that originated in the town: Simonds’ Brewery, established by William Blackall Simonds in 1785; Suttons Seeds, founded in 1806 by John Sutton to provide corn seed and which expanded into flower and vegetable seeds in 1837; and Huntley & Palmers, originally started by Joseph Huntley in 1822, which by 1900 had become the largest biscuit manufacturer in the world.

The last remaining building from the former Huntley & Palmers biscuit factory in Reading

The journey of 152.1km (94½ miles) along the Kennet and Avon Canal starts at Kennet Mouth, where the canal and River Kennet join with England’s longest river, the Thames.

The Thames rises in Gloucestershire and meanders for 346km (215 miles) through eight counties. The 72km (45 mile) River Kennet rises at several locations, including Swallowhead Spring close to Silbury Hill (Avebury), and meets up with the canal on numerous occasions throughout the first two stages.

Head away from the River Thames (canal on right), passing under two railway bridges. Pass the Jolly Anglers pub (0118 376 7823), Blake’s Lock and the Fisherman’s Cottage pub (0118 956 0432), following Kennet Side. There are 105 locks to pass, from Blake’s Lock (107) to Bristol’s Hanham Lock (1). Lock 98 is disused, and locks 8 and 9 have been combined.

Pass under two road bridges and ignore a footbridge, joining Duke’s Street beside a bridge. Cross slightly left and keep ahead, following the left-hand side of the canal through the Oracle Shopping Centre. This was the site of the former Simonds’ Brewery (demolished in 1983) and the narrow section of canal was known as the ‘Brewery Gut’.

At Bridge Street, cross over the canal to follow the right-hand side of the combined canal and river past the weir, with County Lock (106) over to the left. (The brick building on the right, now a restaurant, was once part of the Simonds’ Brewery.) Continue for 2.7km, passing under four bridges, keeping close to the canal. At Fobney Lock (105), follow the path past some buildings, then swing left across a bridge and turn right past the lock; a gate on the left gives access to Fobney Island Wetland Nature Reserve.

Leave Fobney Island via the bridge over the weir and turn right to continue alongside the canal, soon passing under the railway bridge. Turn right over the footbridge and go left, ignoring a footbridge (12) on the right, and pass Southcote Lock (104). Keep ahead for 1.3km to reach Burghfield Bridge (14); here, on the left, is the thatch-roofed Cunning Man pub (0118 959 8067).

Keep ahead and cross over the canal at the next footbridge (15), before continuing past Burghfield Lock (103). Cross a stile and continue through a large open field to a path junction on the far side near a pillbox (this is the first of many to be seen along the canal – see ‘Brief history of the canal’ in the Introduction). Turn left over Hissey’s Bridge (17) and then turn right, soon passing under the M4 to reach Garston Lock (102), beside two pillboxes.

Garston Lock is one of only two turf-sided locks along the canal; the other is Monkey Marsh Lock (Stage 2)

Continue along the canal past the lock (101), passing a sign that says it is 6 miles back to Reading and 13½ miles to Newbury (and a car park on the left, SU 648 705), to reach the road and bridge (19) to the south of Theale. Some 650 metres to the left along the road is the Fox and Hounds (0118 930 2295) at Sheffield Bottom; 550 metres to the right is the railway station, with Theale village 400 metres further on (pubs, shops, post office and accommodation).

Along the main street in Theale are a number of interesting buildings including the late 15th-century thatch-roofed Old Lamb Hotel (0118 930 2357). The more recent Victorian Gothic-style Holy Trinity Church, inspired by Salisbury Cathedral, is built of Bath stone that was brought along the canal in the 1830s. The village has four pubs: the Bull (0118 930 3478), the Crown Inn (0118 930 2310), the Volunteer (0118 930 2489) and the Falcon (0118 930 2523). The railway line, originally opened in the 1840s, now forms the line from London to the south-west and closely follows the canal as far as Pewsey (Stage 3).

Keep ahead alongside the canal, passing a flooded gravel pit, then a lock (100) followed by a swing bridge. The route then follows a meandering river section through a field to reach a minor road bridge (23) at Tyle Mill, where there is parking (SU 626 691). Some 500 metres north-west, at the junction with the A4, is the Spring Inn pub (0118 930 3440); 800 metres south-east is Sulhamstead (accommodation).

Continue along the south side of the canal, past Tyle Mill Lock (99) and soon passing through open fields. At Ufton Bridge turn right across the River Kennet and the canal before immediately turning left to rejoin the towpath beside the disused Ufton Lock (98); the canal and River Kennet are now separate for 4.3km.

The tea room and visitor centre at Aldermaston Wharf

Continue along the right-hand side of the canal for 2.5km, passing two bridges (26 and 27) and two locks (97 and 96) to reach the A340 and lift bridge (28) at Aldermaston Wharf. On the right, shortly before the main road, is the canal visitor centre and tea room (0118 971 2868), housed in a former canal worker’s cottage. For the railway station, turn right along the A340 then fork left along Station Road (200 metres each way); 200 metres to the left is the Butt Inn (0118 971 3309, accommodation).

Aldermaston Wharf dates from the 1720s, when the River Kennet between Reading and Newbury was made navigable (the Kennet Navigation). Aldermaston Lock was once known as Brewhouse Lock because the Aldermaston Brewery – later called Strange’s Brewery – was established just to the south of the lock; the buildings were demolished in the 1950s.

The picturesque village of Aldermaston (visited in Walk 2) lies to the south-west (2.3km using the cycleway that follows the A340) and is home to the Hind’s Head pub (0118 971 2194, accommodation) and shop. Just south of the village is the Atomic Weapons Establishment (AWE), which became the focus of the ‘Ban the Bomb’ marches in the 1950s and 60s.

Cross the canal via the road bridge and continue along the south side for 1.3km passing the scalloped-sided Aldermaston Lock (95). Cross the canal at Frouds Bridge (29) and after passing a meandering section, where the River Kennet rejoins the canal, cross back over via a footbridge (30). Then keep ahead to the swing bridge (31) at Woolhampton beside the Rowbarge pub (0118 971 2213), named after the 19th-century passenger boats that operated on the canal hereabouts. To the right is Midgham station (150 metres); further on at the A4 are village shop/tea room, post office, the Angel Inn (0118 971 3827) and bus services to Reading and Newbury.

WOOLHAMPTON

Woolhampton is in two distinct parts, with the main village, formerly a stopping-off point on the coaching route between London and Bath, strung along the A4 or Great Bath Road. On the right, where Station Road meets the A4, is a listed Victorian drinking fountain (not working) built to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee (1897). To the north is Upper Woolhampton, home to the visually striking Benedictine Douai Abbey. Construction of the abbey started in 1929 in a Gothic revival style; however, work was stopped in 1933 and it was not until 1993 that the abbey was finally completed, following a much more modern style.

STAGE 2

Woolhampton to Hungerford

Start	Woolhampton Bridge (SU 572 665)
Finish	Hungerford A338 bridge (SU 338 687)
Distance	24.9km (15½ miles); cumulative 45.6km (28¼ miles)
Total ascent	180m
Time	6½hr
Map	OS Explorer 158; Heron Maps: Kennet & Avon Canal
Refreshments	Woolhampton, Midgham (A4), Thatcham, Newbury, Marsh Benham, Kintbury, Hungerford
Public transport	Railway stations at Woolhampton (Midgham station), Thatcham, Newbury, Kintbury, Hungerford; bus services at Woolhampton, Midgham (A4), Thatcham, Newbury, Kintbury, Hungerford
Accommodation	Midgham (A4), Thatcham, Newbury, Kintbury, Hungerford
Splitting the stage	The stage may be split after 10.6km (6¾ miles) at Newbury (SU 472 672), where there is a full range of facilities including a railway station.

From Woolhampton, the route continues along the Kennet Valley, meeting up with the River Kennet on several occasions and passing Thatcham – a detour gives access to the Nature Discovery Centre – to arrive at Newbury. Greenham Common, once synonymous with the Cold War, lies to the south. After passing under the A34, the route becomes more rural, passing Hamstead Park and the ideally located Dundas Arms pub overlooking the canal at picturesque Kintbury. The final stretch continues parallel with the River Kennet to end at Hungerford, close to Berkshire’s western border. Along the length of the stage, the towpath passes a number of former World War II pillboxes.

From the south side of the swing bridge (31) at Woolhampton, head west between the canal and the Rowbarge pub (0118 971 2213), soon passing Woolhampton Lock (94). Cross over at the swing bridge (33), pass a lock (93) and cross back again at the next swing bridge (35).

Continue along the south side for 3.3km, passing under the minor road at Midgham Bridge (36). The A4 and the Coach and Horses pub (0118 971 3384) are 500 metres to the north; the Berkshire Arms (0118 971 4114, accommodation) is 400 metres west along the A4. After passing Midgham Lock (92), keep ahead to pass a bridge, then a row of houses and then Colthrop Lock (91) to reach the road bridge (42) at Thatcham. To the right is Thatcham railway station, with the Swan pub (01635 862084, accommodation) 75 metres further on.

The Rowbarge pub at Woolhampton marks the end of Stage 1 and the start of Stage 2

Thatcham, which offers a full range of services, has a long history stretching back several millennia and it was here that the Roman road between Calleva Atrebatum (Silchester) and Corinium (Cirencester) crossed the River Kennet. Just to the east of the town, on the north side of the canal, was the location of Colthrop Mill (closed in 2000), where paper had been produced for over 200 years.

Cross the canal at the bridge and continue along the north side past Monkey Marsh Lock (90); this is the second of only two turf-sided locks on the canal (the first – Garston Lock – was passed in Stage 1) and dates from the opening of the Kennet Navigation around 1720. Continue along the north side of the canal for 3.9km, passing Widmead Lock (89).

The path to the right, just after the lock, leads across the railway (care required) to the Nature Discovery Centre. The wildlife centre, managed by Berks, Bucks & Oxon Wildlife Trust (BBOWT), consists of several flooded gravel pits that provide a habitat for a wide variety of wildlife including damselflies, dragonflies, common terns, and plants such as purple loosestrife and yellow flag iris; the area is also a good place to see a range of wintering wildfowl. The adjacent Thatcham Reedbeds reserve, one of the largest areas of inland reedbed in southern England, is home to warblers (reed, sedge and Cetti’s) and the diminutive Desmoulin’s snail. The centre has a café and toilets (800 metres each way).

Head under a railway bridge and then past Bull’s Lock (88) and a swing bridge to reach Ham Bridge (B3421). Cross to the south side of the canal and continue past Ham Lock (87) before crossing back to the north side at bridge 53. Continue over a footbridge at the boatyard (marina) entrance and then pass a lock (86). Keep ahead past a footbridge and soon, across the canal on the left, is Newbury Marina.

Pass under the A339 and continue, with Victoria Park on the right; the next bridge (59) gives access to Newbury Wharf and Newbury town centre (full range of facilities).

The Teashop by the Canal and restored wharfside crane at Newbury

NEWBURY

To access the town centre, bear right just before the bridge (59), then turn sharp left to head south across the canal to an area that used to be Newbury Wharf; over to the left is a small stone building housing the Teashop by the Canal (01635 522609), while to the right are toilets. Newbury Wharf marked the terminus of the Kennet Navigation until the Kennet and Avon Canal was completed.

Keep ahead for 75 metres and turn right along Wharf Street alongside the 17th-century Granary (former grain store) and Cloth Hall, which now houses the West Berkshire Museum (01635 519562), to reach the Market Place (market days are Thursday and Saturday). Straight on leads to Bartholomew Street and St Nicolas’ Church (keep ahead and you soon rejoin the canal at West Mills). To access the railway station, head south through the Market Place, then follow Cheap Street for 300 metres, later curving right to the station.

In the late 15th century, Newbury was highly regarded for its cloth and the town’s most famous clothier was John Smallwood (or Winchcombe), known as ‘Jack of Newbury’. He helped fund the rebuilding of St Nicolas’ Church (visited in Walk 4), a fine example of an early 16th-century Perpendicular-style ‘wool church’; the church contains a memorial to him.

To the south-east of the town is Newbury Racecourse, which opened in 1905, and Greenham Common (visited in Walk 3), a name synonymous with women’s peace camps during the Cold War. The airbase has now gone and much of the land has been reverted to open common, home to a wide variety of wildlife.

Continue along the north side of the canal towards Town Bridge (60). Go straight across the pedestrianised street heading towards the Lock, Stock and Barrel pub (01635 580550), bear left through the alleyway to the canal and turn right along the towpath over Lock Island passing Newbury Lock (85). To the right is a granite sculpture called Ebb and Flow, by Peter Randall-Page, which fills and empties with the movement of water through the lock.

Cross the canal at the swing bridge (62) to join West Mills road and turn right between the cottages and the canal. Follow the south side of the canal for 1.3km, heading towards open countryside, before crossing over via the bridge (64) just before Guyer’s Lock (84). On the way, across the canal, is the brick abutment of a bridge that carried the Lambourn Valley Railway over the canal; the line, which opened in 1898, finally closed in 1973.

Continue for 7.2km, passing under the A34, then passing a lock (83) and the railway bridge (65), then another bridge (66) and lock (82) to reach a minor road bridge beside a pillbox, with Marsh Benham to the right. For the Red House pub (01635 582017), turn right along the road to the crossroads and go right (600 metres each way); left leads to Hamstead Marshall.

Hamstead Marshall originally developed close to the banks of the River Kennet and this is where the 12th-century St Mary’s Church is located. In 1661, the 1st Earl of Craven commissioned the Dutch architect Sir Balthazar Gerbier to build a grand mansion in Hamstead Park. Unfortunately the house was extensively damaged by fire in 1718 and was later demolished; all that remain today are several pairs of elaborate gateposts just south of the church (visited on Walk 5). A quick look at the map reveals that there are three earth mounds near the church that were built as motte-and-bailey castles during the late 11th or early 12th century.

After crossing the road, continue straight on past three more locks: Hamstead (81), Copse (80) and Dreweat’s (79). On the opposite bank, after Dreweat’s Lock, is Irish Hill, the site of an old whiting works, where chalk was ground into a fine powder for use in products such as paint. Keep ahead past Shepherd’s Bridge (73) to arrive at the road bridge (75) at Kintbury. Just to the right is the railway station, across the road is parking and toilets, and to the left is the perfectly located canalside Dundas Arms pub (01488 658263, accommodation).

Kintbury is home to the picturesque 12th-century St Mary’s Church, which houses several interesting monuments. To visit the church, either turn left along the road for 400 metres or turn left at the next bridge (76) and follow the path up past the Old Vicarage. A local legend tells of the Kintbury Great Bell, which once hung in the church tower; when the tower was destroyed by a great storm, the bell supposedly sank into the River Kennet and has remained hidden there ever since, despite many attempts to retrieve it.

There is also a shop and post office, the Blue Ball pub (01488 608126) and the Cocochoux Cake Café (01488 658717).

Continue along the north side of the canal for 3.7km, passing three locks (78, 77 and 76) and five bridges. After the first bridge (76), look left for a view of the 19th-century Old Vicarage, with the church tower behind. An earlier vicarage stood on the same site and was visited on a number of occasions by the great romantic novelist Jane Austen.

Wire Lock (76) between Kintbury and Hungerford

The River Kennet is quite close at times, on the right, as the canal approaches a minor road at Dunmill Bridge (82); this is the last time that we see the River Kennet – the canal now follows the River Dun towards Crofton. A short way to the left along the road is a car park (SU 351 681). Some 100 metres to the right, past a pillbox, is the picturesque Denford Mill, once used as a fulling mill, where rough woven cloth was cleaned and thickened (now a private house).

Cross over the canal via the bridge and continue along the south side past Dunmill Lock (75); up to the left are two World War II pillboxes and to the right, across the canal, is the 18th-century Dun Mill; the first mention of a mill here was in the early 1400s.

Across the canal, near Hungerford, stands 18th-century Dun Mill

At the next bridge (83), a track on the left leads to the railway station (100 metres). The route keeps ahead to reach the old wharf just after passing under the A338 (bridge 84) in Hungerford; for the main street, turn left.

HUNGERFORD

The market town of Hungerford, the name of which is derived from a Saxon word meaning ‘hanging wood ford’, lies close to the western edge of Berkshire. The town is the only place in the country that still holds the Hocktide Festival, which relates to the rights of the commoners; the highlight is Tutti Day (second Tuesday after Easter), when the Hocktide Court is held and the Tutti Men visit every house with common rights. The present St Lawrence’s Church (passed in Stage 3), built from Bath stone transported along the canal, dates from 1816; inside is the much mutilated effigy of Sir Robert de Hungerford (d.1352).

About 200 metres north along the A338, at the junction with the A4, is the Bear Hotel. It was here, in 1688 during the ‘Glorious Revolution’, that William of Orange stayed on his way from Devon to London, having been invited to ‘invade’ England by Protestant nobles who were disenchanted with the rule of the Catholic King James II. Days later, James II fled to France, opening the way for William to rule jointly as William III with Mary II; a plaque on the wall commemorates the historic event.

STAGE 3

Hungerford to Pewsey Wharf

Start	Hungerford A338 bridge (SU 338 687)
Finish	Pewsey Wharf (SU 157 610)
Distance	22.8km (14¼ miles); cumulative 68.4km (42½ miles)
Total ascent	150m
Time	6hr
Map	OS Explorer 157 and 158; Heron Maps: Kennet & Avon Canal
Refreshments	Hungerford, Froxfield, Great Bedwyn, Crofton, Wilton, Stibb Green, Wootton Rivers, Easton Royal, Pewsey Wharf, Pewsey
Public transport	Railway stations at Hungerford, Great Bedwyn, Pewsey; bus services at Hungerford, Froxfield, Great Bedwyn, Pewsey Wharf, Pewsey
Accommodation	Hungerford, Froxfield, Crofton, Wolfhall, Wootton Rivers, Easton Royal, Pewsey
Splitting the stage	The stage may be split after 7.9km (5 miles) at Great Bedwyn (SU 280 644), where there is a railway station and parking.

Stage 3 leaves behind West Berkshire and heads into Wiltshire. For most of this section, as in the previous two stages, the canal is followed by the railway, which opened in 1862 and now forms the line from London to the south-west. After passing through historic Great Bedwyn, the canal arrives at Crofton Pumping Station and Beam Engines, home to the oldest working steam-driven beam engine in the world. The canal then heads for the Vale of Pewsey, described by William Cobbett in his Rural Rides (where it is known as ‘Valley of Avon’ – this is where the Hampshire River Avon rises) as his ‘land of promise’ and ‘a most beautiful sight’.

From Hungerford (see Stage 2), the towpath follows the south (left) side of the canal for 7.9km to Great Bedwyn, passing Hungerford Lock (74) and then St Lawrence’s Church beside the swing bridge (85). Continue straight on along the towpath, passing through gates, to enter a field that forms part of Freeman’s Marsh, then keep ahead to reach Hungerford Marsh Lock (73) with its central swing bridge (86).

Since the 14th century, registered commoners have had the right to fish and graze animals on Freeman’s Marsh and these rights are still exercised under the rules of the Hocktide Court. More importantly, the marsh supports a rich wildlife: marsh marigolds and southern marsh orchids grow in the wet meadows, while the River Dun, a typical chalk stream, is home to trout and bullheads, plants such as yellow iris and water crowfoot, and the endangered water vole; birds include kingfishers and reed buntings.

To visit Cobbs Farm Shop & Kitchen (01488 686770), cross the canal via the swing bridge (86) and turn left towards the house. Bear right along the track, cross the footbridge over the River Dun and go through a gate to reach the A4, with the shop opposite; retrace your steps back to the canal (650 metres each way).

Continue straight on to pass Cobblers Lock (72) and a footbridge, then go under the railway bridge and past a lock (71) to reach a minor road bridge (90); from here, a short detour (350 metres each way) to the right along the minor road then left beside the A4 leads to the Pelican Inn (01488 682479, accommodation) at Froxfield. Some 400 metres further on are the late 17th-century almshouses. Originally built to house widows of clergymen, the quadrangle of 50 cottages still provides sheltered housing for women.

The route now leaves Berkshire and continues through Wiltshire, passing three locks (parking at lock 68, SU 299 671) and two bridges to reach lock 67 at Little Bedwyn; just before the lock, the footbridge (93) across the canal and railway gives access to St Michael’s Church.

St Michael’s Church, just off the canal at Little Bedwyn

Little Bedwyn, a small village straddling the River Dun, canal and railway, was known as Estbedwinda in 1177. It is home to St Michael’s Church, dating from the 12th century, some picturesque cottages and an upmarket restaurant, the Harrow. A short way to the west is Chisbury and the remains of an Iron Age hill fort. Within the earthworks, near Chisbury Manor Farm, is the empty shell of St Martin’s Chapel (English Heritage), which dates from the 13th century.

Keep ahead under the road bridge and pass a further two locks to reach the road bridge (95) at Great Bedwyn.

Great Bedwyn has a railway station, shop, post office and two pubs: the Three Tuns (01672 870280) and the Cross Keys (01672 870332). It also has a rather large church, the Church of St Mary the Virgin, which dates from 1092 although most of what is visible dates from the 12th and 13th centuries. Step inside to see an impressive monument to Sir John Seymour, father of Jane Seymour who married King Henry VIII in 1536, becoming his third wife; their son became Edward VI. The church also holds the stone figure of a knight, believed to be Sir Adam de Stokke (d.1313), and the tomb of Sir Roger de Stokke (d.1333), son of Sir Adam.

Continue under the road bridge, past the parking area (SU 280 644), and continue along the south side of the canal for 2.9km, passing four locks to reach lock 60, with Crofton Pumping Station and Beam Engines on the right and Wilton Water on the left; a waymarked path heads south-east alongside Wilton Water to reach the Swan (01672 870274) at Wilton (1km each way). At lock 61, a crossing track follows the course of a Roman road that ran between Venta Bulgarum (Winchester) and Cunetio (near Mildenhall).

Just east of Wilton village is Wilton Windmill. Originally built in 1821, it has been lovingly restored to full working condition and is Wiltshire’s only working windmill. The fantail keeps the sails aligned with the wind, acting as an automatic rudder (01672 870266).

To visit Crofton Pumping Station and Beam Engines

Cross the canal via the lock gate and follow the path through the tunnel under the railway, then up the steps; retrace your steps back across the canal and turn right.

The world-famous Crofton Pumping Station was built in 1807 so that water from natural springs at Wilton could be raised by 12m to the summit of the canal to replenish the water lost each time a boat went through a lock. Wilton Water, on the opposite bank, was created in 1836 to provide a larger store of water that could be pumped into the canal. Although electric pumps are now used to pump water into the canal, Crofton’s magnificent steam-driven beam engines – one of which is the oldest working beam engine in the world – are still used on several occasions throughout the year (01672 870300).

The route continues along the south side of the canal, passing five locks and the brick abutments of the former railway bridges of the Swindon, Marlborough and Andover Railway. After passing Crofton Top Lock (55), the route is following the highest section – the summit pound – of the canal, which stretches for 4km to Cadley Lock (54).

At Wolfhall Bridge (103), a track heads south for 600 metres to Wolfhall. Suddene Park Farm, which offers B&B and a campsite, is 500 metres further on.

Wolfhall was once the home of Sir John and Lady Margaret Seymour. Their daughter Jane married Henry VIII as his third queen and gave him a son (Edward VI); Henry VIII visited Wolfhall in 1535 and 1539. The great manor has long since disappeared; the present Wolfhall Manor is Victorian. The house gave its name to Hilary Mantel's novel Wolf Hall.

Shortly before the entrance to the Bruce Tunnel, fork up to the left (or turn up the steps at the tunnel entrance and then turn right) and keep ahead to cross the minor road. Just to the left is the former Savernake Forest Hotel, built in 1864 (now private houses).

The plaque at the Bruce Tunnel commemorates a local landowner, Thomas Brudenell-Bruce, Earl of Ailesbury

The 459-metre-long Bruce Tunnel (the only long tunnel on the canal) is named after the local landowner, Thomas Brudenell-Bruce, Earl of Ailesbury, who lived at nearby Tottenham House. The tunnel has no towpath, which meant that the horse-drawn barges had to be pulled through the tunnel by the boatmen using chains fixed to the walls, while the horses were taken over the top.

Continue along the enclosed path, soon heading down steps to pass under the railway, and then bear left along the south side of the canal to pass Burbage Wharf just after passing under the A346 bridge (104).

Burbage Wharf is home to a replica wharfside crane

At Burbage Wharf, on the opposite bank, is a replica wharfside crane (private). These were once a common sight along the canal. Just to the north is Savernake Forest, a tranquil remnant of a much larger medieval royal hunting ground, first mentioned in a Saxon charter dated AD934. William the Conqueror gave Savernake to one of his knights, and it has passed in an unbroken line for over 30 generations. Although privately owned, it has been leased to the Forestry Commission and walkers can explore large parts of the forest.

To the south there is a pub at Stibb Green (Three Horseshoes, 01672 810324) and at Burbage there is a pub (White Hart, 01672 810336) and shop.

After Cadley Lock (54) and bridge, the canal heads downhill all the way to Bristol and the water that passes through each lock now drains towards the River Avon; prior to this point the water drains towards the River Thames. Continue past a further two locks with bridges to reach another lock (51) and the road bridge (108) at Wootton Rivers. Some 375 metres north along the road is the thatch-roofed Royal Oak pub (01672 810322, accommodation); 1.9km south at Easton Royal is the Bruce Arms pub and campsite (01672 810216).

First recorded in AD804, Wootton Rivers gained part of its name from the de la Rivière family, who held the manor from the early 13th century. In the mid 15th century, the manor was sold to Sir John Seymour of Savernake and then passed through a succession of Seymours and Dukes of Somerset until it was bequeathed to St John’s College, Cambridge, in 1692.

St Andrew’s Church, which dates from the 14th century, has a picturesque wooden steeple and a clock made in 1911 by local man John Spratt to commemorate George V’s coronation. On one face of the clock, the numbers have been replaced with the words ‘Glory be to God’.

The route now follows the longest pound (section between neighbouring locks) of the canal, stretching for 24km (15 miles), so there are no locks all the way to Devizes (Stage 4).

Cross the road and continue along the south side for 4km to reach the fifth bridge (Pains Bridge, 113). Here a gate on the left gives access to Jones’s Mill Nature Reserve (Wiltshire Wildlife Trust). The White Horse Trail crosses here, leading to Pewsey. To visit, head south along the track and along Hollybush Lane; at the mini-roundabout, turn right along the B3087 to the Market Place (1.5km each way).

Jones’s Mill was previously used as a traditional water meadow that was allowed to flood with mineral-rich spring-fed waters during the winter to produce an early growth of grass in the spring. Plants such as yellow iris and great horsetail thrive here as well as rarer plants including bog pimpernel.

To complete the stage, keep ahead for 800 metres to arrive at Pewsey Wharf and the A345. Here there is a car park, bus stop for services between Salisbury and Swindon (except Sundays), and a pub: the Waterfront (01672 564020).

For Pewsey village and railway station

To reach the railway station, turn left following the road (pavement) for 800 metres; before the railway bridge, fork right to the station. For the village, keep ahead along the road for 25 metres and just before the railway bridge turn left along Ways Way for 100 metres. Then turn right along Buckleaze Lane to the A345 and bear left along the A345 for 400 metres to the Market Place (this avoids the narrow section on the A345 under the railway bridge where there is no pavement).

PEWSEY

The history of Pewsey can be traced back to Saxon times, when it was held by Alfred the Great, who became King of Wessex in AD870; in 1913, a statue of Alfred was unveiled in the Market Place to commemorate the Coronation of King George V. In AD940, Alfred’s grandson Edmund granted the royal estate to St Peter’s Abbey in Winchester (later Hyde Abbey) and they held the manor until Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries.