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INTRODUCTION

West Kennett Long Barrow – one of the largest Neolithic chambered tombs in Britain (Stage 2, Avebury loop)

Five thousand years ago, the rolling chalk landscape of Wiltshire between Swindon and Salisbury was, for more than a millennium, a scene of frenzied building work. Tracing a route through these now-peaceful downs and linking the greatest of England’s prehistoric sites – Avebury and Stonehenge – the Great Stones Way takes you on a journey through this prehistoric landscape, passing Neolithic henges and stone circles, Bronze Age barrows and Iron Age hill forts. But that’s not all, there are also ancient churches and the majestic medieval cathedral at Salisbury to visit along the way, as well as far-reaching views, tranquil riverside scenes, picturesque villages and cosy pubs to enjoy.

Take your time and enjoy the journey. Rest a while, listen to the sounds of the countryside around you, admire the views and imagine why our ancestors built these magnificent treasures.

This guidebook provides all the information needed to follow the Great Stones Way. Whether you do one continuous walk, or prefer to spread the pleasure over several visits, you are sure to enjoy your journey along this exciting and historic route.

The Great Stones Way

The Great Stones Way long-distance route runs from Barbury Castle, near Swindon, to Old Sarum, near Salisbury – a total of 58.5km (36½ miles). However, the route described in this guide is longer – a maximum of 85.7km (53¼ miles), depending on the options taken – as it also includes an optional start at Coate Water; loops visiting Avebury, Alton Barnes White Horse and Stonehenge; and an optional finish at Salisbury. The route passes over comparatively gentle terrain, each stage having less than 250m of ascent (the greatest ascent being on Stages 1, 3 and 5).

The Great Stones Way follows existing rights of way and has been developed by The Friends of The Ridgeway, a registered charity that has campaigned for over 30 years to preserve the unique character of the ancient Ridgeway tracks that cross the chalk downs of Southern England, including The Ridgeway National Trail.

For further information about the Great Stones Way, visit www.ridgewayfriends.org.uk/great-stones-way.

History

The earliest inhabitants of the area were nomadic hunter-gatherers who travelled through the wooded landscape over 10,000 years ago. However, by the Neolithic period (4200–2200BC) a farming lifestyle was developing, permanent camps were being constructed and areas of land cleared for crops and animals. This was the period when the great monuments at Avebury and Stonehenge came into being. The Bronze Age (2200–750BC) saw further developments of these iconic sites as well as the building of numerous characteristic round barrows. During the Iron Age (750BC–AD43) defensive hill forts such as Barbury Castle and Old Sarum were built.

The Romans left little visible evidence in the region, although they did construct a road past Silbury Hill (now the A4) and built a town at Old Sarum. In the early part of the Anglo-Saxon period, following the demise of the Roman Empire in Britain around AD410, the Wansdyke – a massive linear earthwork across the Marlborough Downs above the Vale of Pewsey – was constructed. The Norman period (from 1066) was characterised by motte and bailey castles, such as the one at Old Sarum, as well as monasteries and churches with Romanesque rounded arches over windows and doorways; many churches in the area have their roots in the Norman period.

Prosperity and growth in the late 12th and 13th centuries led to the expansion of towns including Salisbury and the building of its impressive medieval cathedral. Much more recently transport improved with the opening of the Kennet and Avon Canal, quickly followed by the arrival of the railways. During the Second World War a number of airfields were built, including one at Alton Barnes, while Salisbury Plain was commandeered as a military training area, which still continues to this day.

Geology and nature

Clockwise from top left: Yellow Vetch, Clustered Bellflower and Field Scabious

The geology of the area is derived from the seas that once covered southern England and the sediments that were laid down at that time. The predominant feature – one that forms the rolling contours of the downs – is a thick layer of Upper Cretaceous chalk (99–65 million years ago), composed of incredible numbers of tiny fossil skeletons of algae, called coccoliths.

Associated with the chalk are irregular silica concretions known as flints. Our prehistoric ancestors used flint to make a range of tools, and it has also been widely used as a building material. A natural process of irregular hardening within the sandy beds that overlay the chalk produced blocks of tough sandstone that are more resistant to erosion. These are the famous sarsens that were used in the construction of the Neolithic stone circles at Avebury and Stonehenge; a great number of sarsens can be seen lying in the fields at Fyfield Down National Nature Reserve.

The Great Stones Way meanders through a patchwork of open chalk grassland, broadleaved woodland and farmland, and there are plenty of opportunities for catching glimpses of local wildlife including foxes, deer and the more elusive badger. During the summer, the open chalk grasslands are home to a myriad of butterflies and plants, as well as traditional farmland birds; high above, the silhouette of a buzzard might be seen. Along the rivers and waterways walkers will probably be accompanied by ducks and mute swans – or may be lucky enough to catch sight of the elusive otter or a flash of blue as a kingfisher speeds by.

Planning your walk

The old diving platform at Coate Water just north of Swindon – starting point of Stage 1

For your own enjoyment and convenience, plan your walk carefully in advance. This guide has been split into six stages ranging from 8.4km to 18.9km (see Appendix A for a route summary table). These are not intended to be individual day sections, but the start and end points coincide with places that offer parking, transport and accommodation facilities locally (see Appendix C for facilities near the route). The stages are provided to help walkers decide how far they would like to go each day – whether that means combining multiple stages or just undertaking part of a stage.

Stage 1 leaves the outskirts of Swindon and climbs up to the start of the Great Stones Way at Barbury Castle, where the remains of an Iron Age hill fort offer commanding views. Stage 2 (the first section of the Great Stones Way) follows The Ridgeway National Trail south to Overton Hill; an alternative loop visits the remarkable prehistoric sites at Avebury, including the stone circle. Stage 3, an undulating stage, heads across the Vale of Pewsey (with a choice of three routes) to reach Casterley Camp on the edge of Salisbury Plain. On Stage 4 the Great Stones Way drops down to meet the tranquil River Avon. The trail meanders along the valley on Stage 5, passing through several picturesque villages, and an optional loop visits Durrington Walls, Woodhenge and Stonehenge. Stage 6 heads to the former Iron Age hill fort at Old Sarum, later used by the Normans as a fortified castle, which marks the end of the route. An optional end at Salisbury’s medieval cathedral is also described.

A three-day schedule, following the Great Stones Way from Barbury Castle to Old Sarum (without the optional loops to Avebury and Stonehenge), could be planned as follows:

 Day 1 Barbury Castle (Stage 2) to Honeystreet (Stage 3) (18.2km, 11¼ miles)

 Day 2 Honeystreet to Bulford or Durrington (Stage 5) (26km, 16¼ miles)

 Day 3 Bulford or Durrington to Old Sarum (Stage 6) (14.3km, 9 miles).

A four-day route from Coate Water to Salisbury, including the Avebury, Wansdyke and Stonehenge loops, might be planned as:

 Day 1 Coate Water (Stage 1) to Avebury (Stage 2) (22.1km, 13¾ miles)

 Day 2 Avebury to East Chisenbury (Stage 4; 1.4km off route) (26.6km, 16½ miles)

 Day 3 East Chisenbury to Great Durnford (Stage 5) (24.8km, 15½ miles)

 Day 4 Great Durnford to Salisbury (Stage 6) (10.4km, 6½ miles).

Getting to and from the Way

After passing the Wansdyke, the route heads for Walkers Hill (Stage 3)

The nearest mainline train station to the start of the route is Swindon, on the line from London Paddington to the south-west and south Wales. Local buses operate daily between Swindon town centre and Coate Water (east-bound stop) or Chiseldon. National Express coaches (403) running between London Victoria and Bath stop at Coate Water (A4259). (Stage 1 in this guide details a walking route from Coate Water to Barbury Castle – the start of the Great Stones Way.)

Salisbury, located a few kilometres south of the end of the Great Stones Way at Old Sarum (which has daily bus services to Salisbury), has rail services on the line between London Waterloo and the south-west. (A walking route to Salisbury from the final section of the Great Stones Way is described in Stage 6.)

Between Swindon and Salisbury (between Pewsey and Salisbury on Sundays), Salisbury Reds (www.salisburyreds.co.uk) operate route X5. This follows the A346 south to Marlborough, calling at Chiseldon, and then follows the A345 to Salisbury with intermediate stops including Enford, Netheravon, Figheldean, Bulford, Durrington, Amesbury and Old Sarum (on Stages 4, 5 and 6).

Contact details for public transport information are given in Appendix B.

For anyone wishing to drive, there is parking (either car park or on street) available at the start and end of each stage. Always remember to park considerately, and be aware that theft from parked cars does occur, so do not leave anything valuable in your car.

When to walk

The route can be undertaken at any time of the year, although walking between early spring and the end of autumn offers the chance of more settled weather and better walking conditions. (During the summer nettles can cause problems, so long trousers are advisable.)

Where to stay

Accommodation ranges from campsites to B&Bs, pubs with rooms and hotels, and places where accommodation may be available are given in the box at the start of each stage description. Some of these places are located along the route, while others involve short detours (less than 3km) off route.

A brief list of some accommodation close to the route is given in Appendix D, and up-to-date details are available from local tourist information offices (see Appendix B).

Food and drink

Places where refreshments and food may be available (pubs, cafés and shops) are mentioned in the box at the start of each stage description (some of these are located along the route, while others involve short detours (less than 3km) off route). A table in Appendix C also gives an overview of where refreshments are available along the route. However, there is no guarantee that any particular establishment will be open when required, and walkers should carry enough food and water for the day with them.

Waymarking, access and rights of way

(L) Great Stones Way route marker and (R) Ridgeway National Trail signpost (followed on Stage 2)

The Great Stones Way follows normal rights of way with standard waymarking. However, it is important to note that at the time of publication the route has not been officially accepted and is not signed using the Great Stones Way logo. The descriptions in this guide, along with the map extracts and the signage on the ground, mean that route finding should not cause any major problems; however, it is recommended that walkers also carry the relevant Ordnance Survey Explorer map.

Rights of way are indicated on signage as follows:

 Footpaths Yellow arrow – walkers only

 Bridleways Blue arrow – walkers, cyclists and horse riders

 Restricted byways Purple arrow – walkers, cyclists, horse riders and carriage drivers

 Byways Red arrow – same as for a restricted byways plus motorcycles and motorised vehicles.

Using this guide

Church of St James, North Newnton (Stage 3, White Horse Trail route)

In this guidebook an information box at the start of each stage gives the stage start and finish location accompanied by grid references, stage distance, map details, places close to the route that offer refreshments (pubs, cafés and shops), public transport links and accommodation.

A short introduction gives a brief overview of the stage, identifying any major points of interest, including towns and villages. Throughout the route text easily identifiable features that appear on the OS map are highlighted in bold to help with navigation, and there is information given about places of interest en route.

Distances and times

The Kennet and Avon Canal at Honeystreet (Stage 3)

The distances given in the text (metric, with approximate imperial conversions where appropriate) have been measured from OS Explorer maps. The walking time for each stage is based on a walking speed of 4km per hour (2½ miles per hour), plus 10 minutes for every 100m of ascent. This is the minimum amount of walking time required to undertake the stage and does not include any time for rests, photography, consulting the map or guidebook, visits or simply admiring the view – all of which can add substantially to the day’s activity.

GPX files for all the stages of this route are available to download free from the Cicerone website at www.cicerone.co.uk/911/GPX.

Maps

The OS maps covering the Great Stones Way are

 Landranger (1:50,000): 173 and 184

 Explorer (1:25,000): 169 (Stage 1 only), 157 and 130.

This guide contains extracts of the OS 1:50,000 Landranger series of maps with information added to show the main route and any alternative routes.

Taking care

A great spot to take a seat and admire the views across the River Avon valley before moving on to Old Sarum (Stage 6)

When out walking, please respect the countryside and follow the Countryside Code:

 be safe – plan ahead and follow any signs

 leave gates and property as you find them

 protect plants and animals, and take your litter home

 keep dogs under close control

 consider other people.

The Great Stones Way passes a number of scheduled monuments that may be easily damaged without due care, so:

 do not disturb, walk over, damage, use metal detectors on, or remove any objects from any scheduled monument sites

 always follow marked routes.

Finally, always take great care when either walking along, or crossing, roads and railway tracks.