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NEVIS

To paraphrase Dickens: it is the best of hills, it is the worst of hills. The magnificent mountain architecture on the north side of Ben Nevis (or just ‘the Ben’ as it is affectionately known) offers one of the most awesome and impressive vistas in Britain – a huge and complex cathedral of rock, born of volcanic forces and massive intrusions of granite, relentless weathering and the scouring action of glaciation. It is a place that inspires fear and poetry and excitement. It is a magnet to everyone who loves mountains. But there is also the other Ben Nevis. A climber’s first experience of reaching the summit on a clear summer’s day is likely to come as a severe shock. There are often more people to be found here on a Saturday afternoon than in Sauchiehall Street, many of them totally ill-equipped and unprepared for a day on a mountain. The usual route from Glen Nevis is now like a motorway cut into the hill. The plateau itself is frequently covered with litter. Following a major clear-up in 2009 a line of cairns was constructed as markers to and from the trig point on a dog-leg following the safest line across the summit plateau (see text for bearings).

Despite all of this, the traverse described here is a wonderful route. Winter is definitely the best time to do it, when the tourist hordes are snuggled up at home in front of their fires, though in winter conditions it becomes a much more serious expedition which calls for all-round mountaineering skills.

ROUTE 1

Ben Nevis (1344m), Carn Mor Dearg (1220m)

Start/Finish	footpath from Glen Nevis, which is stepped and engineered
distance	15km
Ascent	1700m
Difficulty	Demanding route with exposed section (the Carn Mor Dearg arête) that in summer involves some simple scrambling (up to grade 1). Accurate navigation from summit of Ben Nevis is essential in poor weather.
Time	7hrs
Maps	OS sheet 41; Explorer map 392; Harvey’s Superwalker map Ben Nevis; Area Map 1
Access	No stalking in this area; John Muir Trust, tel: 0131 554 0114
Parking	Visitor centre car park or by YHA or at Ben Nevis Inn
Hostel	YHA Glen Nevis; Independent Glen Nevis
B&B/Hotel	Fort William
Camping	Glen Nevis
Pronunciation	Ben Nevis; Karn More Jerrack
Translation	Venomous Mountain; Big Red Cairn

This tough, long route takes you on a spectacular circuit around the Nevis horseshoe to reach the highest point in Britain. It takes you through a wonderful variety of mountain terrain and includes some easy scrambling on the exposed Carn Mor Dearg arête. It is not the easiest way up Ben Nevis, however, and in poor weather can become a serious and demanding expedition.

Start from the visitor centre car park (12299 73088), from the YHA or from the Ben Nevis Inn (12591 72969). The paths from all three join not far up the hill. When the path begins to level out above Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe take a left fork. This eventually winds around to reach the CIC (Charles Inglis Clark) hut beneath the north face, but after about 1km leave this path and drop quite steeply down heather slopes to the Allt a’ Mhuilinn. This can be crossed without difficulty at 15497 73792. This point can also be reached by a path from Torlundy, which has the advantage of shortening your encounter with the tourists. (If you prefer to approach the hill from this side, start from the North Face Car Park, which is signposted from the A82 in Torlundy. Don’t try to access the Allt a’ Mhuilinn via the golf course, as your presence will not be appreciated.)

From the river crossing, climb straight up the heathery hillside to Carn Beag Dearg. The slope soon becomes bouldery. Stay on the crest of the ridge all the way to Carn Dearg Meadhonach (17602 72672). There is a lower path that traverses the west side of these hills to emerge below Carn Mor Dearg, but the best views are to be had higher up – not only of the magnificent north face of Ben Nevis, but also of the dozens of gullies etched into the flanks of Aonach Mor across the valley to the east. From the summit of Carn Dearg Meadhonach drop down over the pink/grey granite boulders and then climb again to the summit of Carn Mor Dearg at 17753 72161 (4hrs 20mins from the YHA).

From here you drop down to the south with quite a substantial loss of height before the ridge eventually curves round to the southwest. Stay on or very close to the crest of the arête (which is little more than a line of piled-up blocks). It is narrow but not difficult or intimidating in summer weather. Soon the ascent begins, past an abseil post, which marks a possible line of descent into Coire Leis. Then comes a steep climb over large andesite boulders to the summit of Ben Nevis at 16687 71275. There is an intermittent path and a line of rusting posts which in very poor weather may be a useful guide to the top (5hrs 20mins).

Follow the tourist trail back to the valley. It is essential in poor visibility to find the right line of descent. There have been many fatalities where parties have either stumbled over the northeast face or mistaken one of the Glen Nevis gullies for the way off. If in any doubt walk 150m from the summit trig pillar on a grid bearing of 231°, then follow a second grid bearing of 282° for just over 1km to reach the top of the zigzags and safer ground. Don’t forget to add the necessary adjustment for magnetic variation to these grid bearings. In 2006 the variation was just under 3°W. Follow the Mountain Trail down through the zigzags to rejoin the outward route.

Ben Nevis from Carn Mor Dearg arête