Читать книгу A Taste for Herbs - Sue Goetz - Страница 11
ОглавлениеONE
Growing Herbs
20 favorites for every-sized garden…indoors too
I love the details of a garden… how pathways are laid out, the stonework; and the growing, changing, giving parts of a garden, the plants. I especially love the fragrance and flavor of herbs. The wonderful thing is that you don’t have to have an enormous plot of land to grow herbs. Your herb garden can be as simple as a container overflowing with mint beside a stately rosemary in pottery. The end goal is that you have gathered plants in your garden that not only delight your senses in the garden, but have multiple uses for you beyond the garden.
HERB GARDEN BASICS
(general garden and growing notes)
SOIL: Herbs in the garden prefer well-draining soil. Organic matter like compost added to the soil helps change the soil’s structure and replenishes nutrients important to plant growth. In new beds and open garden areas pile it on deep and till or shovel down at least 8 inches (a good shovel turn). The deeper the amended topsoil the easier it will be for roots to anchor down, take in nutrients, improve drainage and simply make it easier to garden in.
SUNLIGHT: A cultural necessity of an herb garden is that it needs to be in the sunniest spot in the garden. Most herbs prefer full sun or a good quality of warm sun for most of the day. If sun is a challenge, look for microclimates of reflective light and warmth within your garden.
DESIGN: When planning the layout of the herb garden, place taller herbs like dill where they won’t shade the other herbs.
CARE: Organic and natural are a must when growing and caring for edibles in the garden. What goes on the plants eventually goes in the body when you eat the plants.
Grow your herbs almost anywhere!
CONTAINER GARDENS
Where no planting beds are available, herbs in pottery will fill the niche for growing your herbs. Look for containers at least 2 feet wide and tall to maximize choices of plants to grow. A large, roomy pot can hold a mix of different herbs or you might plant individual varieties in their own pot – a good idea if you’re planting aggressive herbs like mint and oregano, which can quickly take over a space.
INDOORS
Herbs are some of the easiest type of plants to grow in containers so they can easily be grown indoors in a sunny window or on the countertop. All your indoor garden really needs is light, warm temperatures and some humidity. Tips for successful indoor growing:
• Plant the herbs in well-draining pots. Terra cotta pots work well because their porosity allows roots to breathe and not get bogged with moisture.
• Herbs grow best in temperatures around 70° F, so be sure they’re not near a cold, drafty window.
• Provide humidity, especially in the winter when a heating system can dry the air. Lightly mist your herb plants daily if needed. Don’t saturate the leaves with water, just give them a dewy misting.
• Check the moisture of the pot by touching the surface of the soil; it should be cool and lightly moist. Water when the top inch of soil is starting to dry out. Avoid overwatering, as it is the most common failure of indoor gardens.
WHICH HERBS? To start a windowsill or countertop garden, choose herb varieties that you will use frequently in cooking. You will be inspired to use them if they are available through the year – plus, the ongoing harvest will keep herbs tidy and bushy. Choose varieties that are compact growing, like miniature-leaf basils, parsley and marjoram.
GROW LIGHTS: If you don’t have a window with enough sun, place potted herbs on a countertop (in the kitchen if possible to keep them handy for cooking.) Use grow lights under a cabinet or over a shelf on the wall to provide needed light to keep herbs happy and healthy.
Let me get out of the way now and introduce you to the “Top 20” of my favorite herbs. In this chapter you’ll find the basic cultural information for each, varieties to look for, the parts of the plant you’ll use, harvesting and preserving tips, and advice on using the herb in seasonings and in food and drink preparations.
BASIL
COMMON NAMES: Basil, sweet basil
BOTANICAL NAME: Ocimum basilicum
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR: Italian, heavily-scented varieties include: ‘Genovese’, ‘Napolitano’, ‘Greek Windowbox’, ‘Spicy Globe’. Colorful leaved varieties that add subtle color to liquids, cheeses and butter: ‘Dark Opal’, ‘Red Rubin’, ‘Purple Ruffles’. A milder basil with a note of citrus is ‘Mrs. Burns’ Lemon’, a small-leaf basil that is delicate and good used fresh in salads. The Thai basils, which have a slightly subtle “basil” flavor with a hint of licorice to them include: ‘African Blue’, ‘Magic Mountain’, ‘Siam Queen’.
PART OF THE PLANT USED: Leaves
IN THE GARDEN: Basil is a leafy annual that is easy to start from seed. Grow basil in full sun in well-draining soil that is nourished with compost. Grow in a sunny garden location alongside tomatoes and peppers. The colorful leaved basils, like the variety ‘Dark Opal’, are a great addition to container gardens. Basil is best planted outside after all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures are consistently above 45° F. The plant will shut down leaf production in cooler temperatures and is prone to rot in wet soils.
Regularly pinch off the flowers during the growing season to encourage bushy, leafy growth. Once basil starts to flower, much of the leaf flavor is lost to the flowers, which are edible but not very palatable.
HARVEST NOTES:
• Basil is best used fresh whenever possible. The desirable basil essence is typically lost during the drying process. In some cases, the leaves need to be dry to use in a recipe, so harvest timing is more important.
• The leaves will be most flavorful in the morning just after the dew dries. Harvest the stems with leaves.
• Gently remove the whole leaves from the stems and place in a single layer on a drying screen.
• When completely dry, store the leaves whole and break them down as needed for use in recipes; this will help preserve the flavor. Basil can also be frozen in ice cubes (see how to freeze herbs on page 82).
FOOD AND FLAVORING: Basil’s flavor is best described as a deep, rich, clove-like flavor with undertones of lemon and anise. The large leaves and heavy, fresh flavor are used as the main ingredient in vinegars, oils, and to season and garnish cheese and butter. For a rich, classic pesto, use the true Italian basil varieties like Genovese and Napolitano. You will find basil used many ways, but it has flavor kinship with tomatoes, both fresh and simmered into sauces. (For recipes that use basil, see pages 104, 132, 135, 139 and 146.)
OTHER USES: Healing and aromatic, basil is known as a refreshing and calming herb. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. Make a strong infusion of basil in warm water, dip a cotton ball in the basil water and smooth over skin to help calm rash and irritations. Drink a cup of basil tea to calm nerves and soothe a stress headache.
Purple Genovese-type basil, ‘Amethyst Improved’
Siam Queen Thai Basil
BEE BALM
COMMON NAMES: Bee balm, bergamot, Oswego tea
BOTANICAL NAME: Monarda spp.
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR: There are many species of Monarda and each with varying flavors. Monarda fistulosa has a bergamot “Earl Grey”-type of fragrance and flavor and the leaves are good in tea. Monarda citriodora is also known as lemon bergamot; its new leaves have a strong lemon aroma that makes an excellent tea. The more commonly grown bee balm, Monarda didyma, has tangy flower petals, as well as fragrant leaves. In culinary dishes use varieties with red flowers; they are the ones that have the spiciest flavor. Look for these varieties: ‘Gardenview Scarlet’, ‘Cambridge Scarlet’ and ‘Violet Queen’. Monarda citriodora ‘Bergamo’ and Monarda fistulosa ‘Claire Grace’ are nice varieties for tea making.
PLANT NOTE: Monarda is not the source of flavor for true Earl Grey tea. True bergamot is Citrus aurantium var. bergamia. The flavor and fragrance of wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa) is very similar and can be used as a substitute.
PARTS OF THE PLANT USED: Flower petals and leaves
IN THE GARDEN: Most Monardas are perennials that can spread aggressively in moist garden soils. M. didyma cultivars do well in partial shade, but need evenly moist, well-draining soil. M. fistulosa needs full sun, with moist, well-draining soil. Don’t crowd plants in mixed planting beds; some varieties are prone to powdery mildew. The ones I have listed above have been shown to have excellent powdery mildew resistance.
HARVEST NOTES:
• Harvest only young fresh leaves. Older leaves have a rough texture and less flavor.
• Dry the leaves whole on drying screens and store in tightly sealed glass jars.
• To use the edible flowers, use just the petals by gently pulling them out of the center of the flower. The flower petals do not hold their flavor in the drying process, so they are best used fresh.
FOOD AND FLAVORING: Use the brightly-colored flower petals in salads and to flavor and adorn butters and cream cheeses. The leaves of Monarda are tangy and heavy with camphor and make a tingly, refreshing tea. Add the dried leaves to tea mixes to give a deep bergamot aroma. The flavor is especially tasty and enhanced when mixed with citrus-flavored herbs like lemon verbena. (For recipes that use Monarda, see pages 118, 152 and 169.)
OTHER USES: The leaves used in teas are reputed to help ease nausea and aid with digestion. In reference to its common name, bee balm is used as a healing soother for bee stings: Grab a few fresh, tender leaves, crush into a pulp and place at the site of the sting. Bee balm is an excellent pollinator plant in the garden, attracting bees and butterflies. Hummingbirds are highly attracted to the bright-colored flowers.
Gardenview Scarlet (Monarda didyma)
Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)
CHAMOMILE
COMMON NAMES: Chamomile, German chamomile, Roman chamomile
BOTANICAL NAME: Matricaria recutita (German chamomile), Chamaemelum nobile (Roman chamomile)
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR: Both types of chamomile are used interchangeably in teas and medicine. Roman chamomile has a sweeter, green apple-like aroma and is better used in cooking and teas. Double chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile ‘Flora Plena’) is a lovely double flower form. Bodegold Chamomile (Matricaria recutita ‘Bodegold’) is a variety bred for commercial production because the flowers produce a high-quality essential oil.
PART OF THE PLANT USED: Flowers
IN THE GARDEN: Roman chamomile grows as a low growing, perennial living carpet. It is traditionally used as ground cover in English gardens for pathways and lawns. Grow Roman chamomile as a ground cover under roses; they have a symbiotic relationship that helps keep roses healthy. German chamomile is an annual that grows up to 2 feet tall. Both are easy to plant from seed and will take part-shade with moist, well-draining soil.
HARVEST NOTES:
• Harvest the flowers just as they fully open.
• Dry them on flat drying screens.
FOOD AND FLAVORING: Commonly used for teas. Infuse the fresh flowers in hot water. Use dry flower heads in blends with other herbs, like lavender, for flavorful herb tea mixes. The flowers have a tart, honey-like flavor and can be used fresh in salads and as a garnish for desserts. Chamomile pairs nicely with vanilla flavor for a sweet infusion in cocktails. An herbal hot toddy for evening relaxation: Make a large cup (8 ounces) of hot, strong chamomile tea. Add 1 teaspoon of honey (see the Chamomile Infused Honey recipe on page 126), a squeeze of fresh lemon juice (about ½ teaspoon), and a shot of rum. Sip and enjoy. (For other recipes that use chamomile see pages 118, 126, 127 and 169.)
OTHER USE: Chamomile is widely respected for it healing qualities. The flowers, when sipped as tea, are calming and help encourage relaxation and sleep. Chamomile Tea: Boil water in a teakettle. Transfer boiling water into a warmed glass or ceramic teapot. Add a handful of fresh chamomile flowers and allow to steep for at least 10 minutes, longer for stronger tea.
Chamomile’s healing properties are also used for skin care in lotions and shampoos. Harvest fresh flowers and crush into a poultice with a small amount of coconut oil to create a healing mix for skin swelling and irritation. Relax with warm chamomile tea bags over eyes to reduce dark circles and swelling.
CHIVES
COMMON NAME: Chives
BOTANICAL NAME: Allium schoenoprasum (common chives), Allium tuberosum (garlic chives)
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR: Profusion® chives (Allium schoenoprasum ‘Sterile’) is a cultivar that flowers heavily. Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum) are a flat-leaved, white flowering variety.
PARTS OF THE PLANT USED: Stems and flowers.
IN THE GARDEN: A hardy, herbaceous perennial, chives are essential in every chef’s herb garden. Chives are not fussy in the garden and do best in well-draining soil in full sun. They can be easily grown from seed. Deadhead faded flower heads to encourage more stem growth through the season. Divide the clumps every 3 or 4 years to keep lush stem and flower production. Chives are also easy to grow inside in a pot on a sunny windowsill.
HARVEST NOTES:
• Harvest fresh for use any time that the plant has matured above ground at least 6 inches. Grasp a handful around the stems and cut, leave at least 2 to 3 inches of the plant behind to regenerate new growth for multiple harvests through the season.
• To dry common chives: Cut the harvested stems into small pieces (about ¼-inch size) and allow to dry on flat drying screens. (The white flowering cultivar known as garlic chives are best used fresh, because they do not stay flavorful in the drying process.)
• To freeze, cut fresh, harvested stems into small pieces, spread in a single layer on a flat baking tray. Place tray in the freezer overnight. Once the chive pieces are frozen, store them in a glass freezer-safe canning jar and cover tightly.
• Chive flowers are best used fresh: You can eat the whole flower head (and a very zingy bite it is) or pull the petals away from the center of the flower head.
FOOD AND FLAVORING: Chives belong to the same plant family as onions and garlic. The flavor of chives is a nice, mild mix of both. Add chives at the end of cooking time, because much of the flavor will be lost in the heat. Sprinkle fresh flower petals and cut stems on all types of salads, soups and savory entrees. Infuse stems and petals into butter and cream cheeses. The dried stems are used in seasoning blends, adding a touch of garlic, without overpowering the mix. The whole flower heads are used in oil or vinegar and will color the liquid a pale lavender-pink. (For recipes that use chives, see pages 106, 108, 112, 134, 142 and 151.)
OTHER USES: Plant chives around roses and nasturtiums to help deter aphids and other garden pests. Garlic chives attract pollinators like bees and butterflies to the garden.
CILANTRO
COMMON NAMES: Cilantro, coriander, Chinese parsley
BOTANICAL NAME: Coriandrum sativum
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR: ‘Santo’, ‘Calypso’, and ‘Slow Bolt’ are cultivars that produce abundant leaves and do not go to seed as quickly as common cilantro.
PARTS OF THE PLANT USED: Fresh leaves. The seeds of the dried fruit of the plant are harvested and commonly known as coriander.
IN THE GARDEN: Cilantro is an annual that changes dramatically in the garden as the temperature rises. This is a cool weather herb; in the summer heat the plant will produce fewer leaves. The stems will lengthen, get thick and begin producing ferny foliage that quickly “bolts” into flower and seed production. The seeds are quick to germinate and like to be consistently moist. I used to plant cilantro seeds in early spring under my greenhouse benches so they could be warm but also shaded, to help the cilantro produce more leaves before it bolted to flower. If you live in an area where danger of frost is late, you can plant a fall crop. Plant seeds so the timing of leaf harvest is about a month from sowing.
HARVEST NOTES:
• Leaves are harvested fresh when young and tender. The older leaves become bitter, when the plant is starting to bolt.
• Gather and cut the stems in a small bunch, then gently tear or snip the leaves from the stems.
• The leaves do not hold flavor well in the drying process. Freeze leaves in ice cubes for later use to melt the flavor into soups and sauces.
• The seeds need to be harvested when fully ripe and dry or the unripe seed will have an unpleasant taste and odor.
FOOD AND FLAVORING: The leaves are pungent and aromatic, described often as lemony, parsley-like. This is a real love it/hate it herb. Some people love the aroma and flavor and some find it repulsive. It is a savory herb that has flavor power in heavy dishes and one of the popular ingredients in salsa recipes. Use this herb lightly so it does not overpower dishes, but daintily lends its distinct flavor. Typically, when a recipe calls for coriander (and not cilantro) it is referring to the use of the seed. The seeds are used as one of the main ingredients in curry powder. (For recipes that use cilantro and coriander, see pages 106 and 148.)
OTHER USES: Coriander seed is a botanical addition for flavor in gin making. A fascinating component of coriander seed is that in testing it is made up of over 70% linalool, which is a naturally occurring terpene alcohol. That heavy amount of linalool makes the fresh aromatic oil of coriander, popular for use commercially as a base in perfumes and lotions.
DILL
COMMON NAME: Dill
BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR: ‘Mammoth’ is a plume of soft foliage that grows up to 3 feet tall. ‘Bouquet’ is a compact-growing dill. ‘Dukat’ is popular because of its strong flavor that holds well in cooking. ‘Fernleaf’ is a compact-growing plant that works great in potted herb gardens.
PARTS OF THE PLANT USED: Leaves and seeds
IN THE GARDEN: Dill is an annual that is easy to grow from seed. It prefers full sun and well-draining soil. Plant dill in early spring, about the same time you would plant cool crops like lettuce. Sow a second or third time every couple of weeks to have a continual harvest of leaves. Allow some of the plant to flower to be harvested for the seed. You can also plant a later crop to have fresh dillweed sprigs for pickle making.
HARVEST NOTES:
• Harvest dill weed (the leaves) through the summer for fresh use. The seeds are ready to harvest just as they are turning brown.
• To harvest seeds, cut the flower/seed heads from the plants, keeping some length of stems. Tie the bundle together with string or a rubber band and cover it with a brown paper bag.
• Hang the bag to finish drying. As the seed dries, it will shake off the plant into the paper bag.
• Store the seeds in a glass jar.
FOOD AND FLAVORING: The ferny-textured leaf of dill is commonly referred to in recipes as dill weed. It has the familiar flavor of dill pickles but more subtle than dill seed. Add dill leaves near the end of cooking time to delicate-flavored dishes with chicken or fish. Add to baby salad greens, sprinkle on fresh sliced cucumbers, season cream cheese, butter and egg dishes. The aromatic seeds attached to the umbel flowers have a stronger flavor. This is the part of the plant used in pickles. The strong flavor retains well in vinegars and as a flavorful addition to baked breads. (For recipes that use dill, see pages 104, 108, 140 and 152.)
OTHER USES: Dill is a prized pollinator garden plant; it is a host plant for swallowtail butterflies. Dill tea – a tea made with the seeds will help ease stomach gas and upset: Infuse one teaspoon of seeds into 1 cup of hot water and allow to steep for about 15 minutes. Dill has also been studied as an immune system booster and found to have anti-inflammatory qualities.
FENNEL
COMMON NAMES: Fennel, sweet fennel, Florence fennel
BOTANICAL NAME: Foeniculum vulgare
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR: Sweet fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), bronze fennel (Foeniculum vulgare ‘Rubrum’), Florence fennel (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum), ‘Romanesco’ or ‘Victorio’.
PARTS OF THE PLANT USED: Leaves and seeds of sweet and bronze varieties. The bulb of Florence fennel.
IN THE GARDEN: Sweet fennel and bronze fennel are easily grown from seed. The plant prefers full sun with consistent moisture in well-draining soil. Plants don’t like to be crowded, so keep them thinned to about 10 to 12 inches apart from each other. Fennel can be a bit invasive and is showing up on noxious weed lists across the country. (Check with your county extension agent if it is a problem in your area.) Cut the flower heads from the plant before they seed to keep it from self-sowing around the garden. Bronze fennel has dark, lacy foliage that adds nice texture to container gardens. Plant fennel seeds in the garden when the soil warms in the spring. The variety commonly known as Florence fennel produces a large, bulb-like base. Plant Florence fennel seed with a spacing of 12 inches, to give room for the bulb to grow. The plants need a long season and rich well-draining soil to produce a nice bulb. For the bulb type of fennel start seeds indoors and place plants out in the garden in the spring as soon as the danger of frost has passed.
HARVEST NOTES:
• Harvest the feathery leaves anytime for fresh use.
• Harvest the flower and seed heads to dry using the same method as dill.
• The bulb of Florence fennel is ready to harvest when the bulb is about the size of a tennis ball. If the bulb gets too big and mature, it may become stringy with an unpleasant texture.
FOOD AND FLAVORING: Fennel is very recognizable by its strong anise fragrance and flavor. The chopped leaves are used on fish and do particularly well to improve the digestibility of oily fish. Use fennel leaves in soups, stews and salad. Fennel seeds can be used as a substitute for anise seed in recipes. The taste is milder but still imparts the licorice-like scent and flavor. Sauté the seeds in stir-fry and rice dishes. The seeds are a main flavoring used in Italian sausage making. The bulbous base of Florence fennel can be sliced raw for use in leaf lettuce salads. Sauté large pieces of the bulb in butter to impart an anise flavor; add shrimp, green beans or peas pods for a sweet, mellow dish. (For recipes that use fennel, see pages 108 and 180.)
OTHER USES: The seed of sweet fennel is long revered as a stomach calmer. Fennel tea: Add 1 teaspoon of fennel seeds to 1 cup of boiling water. Crush the seeds slightly while in the hot water and allow to steep for 1 minute. Strain the tea before drinking and garnish with a fresh slice of orange. The infusion can also be used as a mouthwash or a gargle to calm a sore throat. The seeds are used to flavor liquors and candy. In the garden the umbel-shaped flowers are one of the important host plants for swallowtail butterflies.
Bronze Fennel
(Foeniculum vulgare dulce ‘Rubrum’)
LAVENDER
COMMON NAME: Lavender
BOTANICAL NAME: Lavandula spp.
VARIETIES TO LOOK FOR: There are hundreds of varieties of lavender to choose from. For the best taste, the English varieties and a few hybrids are the ones to grow for flavor. Generally, the darker the flower color of the Lavandula angustifolia varieties the sweeter the flavor. Look for ‘Hidcote’, ‘Munstead’, ‘Royal Velvet’, and ‘Sachet’. ‘Melissa’ is a pale pink flowering cultivar that has a nice sweet flavor. The Lavandins (Lavandula x intermedia) ‘Grosso, ‘Provence’, ‘Seal’ are larger plants and heavy flower producers.
PART OF THE PLANT USED: Flower buds
IN THE GARDEN: Lavender is a sun-loving perennial. The English lavenders are hardy to USDA Zones 5 or 6 with the variety ‘Munstead’ being one of the hardiest and will survive USDA Zone 4 winters. The hybrid Lavandins are less hardy and do best in USDA Zone 6 to 10. All lavenders dislike nourished soil; garden ground that is heavily composted or too rich may grow healthy plants but will not have good flower production. Plant lavender in rocky, lean soil. Good drainage is imperative to avoid root rot. In rainy climates, especially those with cool, wet winters, top dress around the base of the plants with white gravel or oyster shells to keep the foliage from lying in wet soil. If the flowers are cut or sheared back after they fade in mid-summer, the plants tend to have a second flush of flowers later in the season.
HARVEST NOTES:
• The stems of lavender are best harvested when the light-gray color of the still-closed flower buds begin to deepen in color to purple. This is the maturity stage just before the bud opens into petal. Some of the lower petals on the stem may be open, but the best essential oil is in the plump and colorful bud.
• Fresh use: Cut from the garden, the buds can be gently stripped from the stems.
• To dry: Cut long stems with flower buds and bind them together into bundles with a rubber band.
• Hang to dry, keep a watch on the drying bundles before the buds begin to shatter off. To catch the buds as they are drying, you can enclose the bundle in a paper bag, as the flower buds shatter off they will fall into the bottom (see the paper bag method in the general harvest section.)
• When the buds are completely dry, shake them from the stems and store them in a glass jar.
FOOD AND FLAVORING: Lavender has an earthy, sweet, perfume flavor. The English lavenders have the sweetest flavor, perfect for desserts, jellies and cocktails. The Lavandins have higher notes of camphor and menthol, giving them a more pungent aroma that combines with pepper and savory seasonings. Use fresh stems of lavender in bud as swizzle sticks in cocktails and summer drinks. Lavender mixed with lemon in recipes makes the lavender taste better because the essential oils in the plants contain small amounts of limonene, which is the same component that gives lemon its classic fresh fragrance. (For recipes that use lavender, see pages 102
