Читать книгу Reel Masters - Susan Schadt - Страница 8

I CAN’T BE AWAY from the water for very long. It was where I found my first sense of freedom as a teenager. I connected it to adventure, and it was just my place. It has always been where I have felt most comfortable, and it’s where I return when I need to find peace and balance.

JEREMIAH BACON

CHARLESTON, SC

Bacon, a native of John’s Island, S.C., is the executive chef and partner of The Oak Steakhouse and The Macintosh, which in 2012 was a semifinalist for Best New Restaurant by the James Beard Foundation, awarded best new restaurant in Bon Appetit’s annual 50 Best New Restaurants, and named Best New Restaurant by Esquire. Bacon is a five-time James Beard Foundation semifinalist for Best Chef Southeast, most recently in 2016. After culinary school at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Bacon lived in New York City, where he honed his skills in the kitchens of some of the city’s most legendary restaurants, including River Café, Le Bernardin, and Per Se.

MY FIRST MEMORY of eating what I caught was with my grandmother when I was 7 or 8 years old. She would take us to a little dock on the Folly River, and we would catch blue crabs and shrimp on 3-foot lift nets. Then we would go to her house and cook them “big pot” style with corn and sausage and eat them right on her back porch with tea so sweet you could stand a spoon in it.

In the mid-80’s, my family got a small jon boat with a 25-horsepower stick engine, and I was allowed to take it out by myself. It’s like growing up on a farm, where kids start driving the family pickup when they are 13- or 14-years-old: you can’t go too fast and there is not much to run into. It was like that with a jon boat, too, especially scooting around the barrier islands. I was a strong surfer and swimmer, and my parents felt comfortable with my friends and me heading out on our own.

We stayed pretty much on the back end of Kiawah Island and Johns Island, exploring the three rivers: Kiawah, Stone, and Folly. There was plenty of time spent in and around the creeks and throwing the cast net and fishing pole around. We would often bring back a nice cache of shrimp to the house, and watch my mom prepare and cook them — the true beginnings of my interest in learning how to cook.

There is no better way for a kid to grow up than with exposure to the outdoors, whether it’s inland in the woods and fields or out on the water. It helps build awareness of the wonders of life, and it also helps build respect and regard for the dangers found in nature, especially on the open water. You have to pay attention to your surroundings and yourself. For me, those summers helped forge a lifetime of wonderment and admiration of the water.

“There is no better way for a kid to grow up than with exposure to the outdoors, whether it’s inland in the woods and fields or out on the water. It helps build awareness of the wonders of life, and it also helps build respect and regard for the dangers found in nature, especially on the open water.”

“Just rocking on the boat, sitting still and listening to the sound of the waves hitting the sides. It’s a place that forces me to listen, watch, feel the water, and have patience. It’s about what’s going on in a whole other world—the one on the water and the one under it.”

After graduating from the College of Charleston, I enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America, which is perched high on a cliff over the Hudson River in Hyde Park, New York. The campus was vast and beautiful. It was bitterly cold, too, especially for a kid who grew up in Charleston. I started in January and the temperature was in the 20s with a fierce wind coming off the river. I pushed myself pretty hard at school, and I would find myself looking out on the river for a few moments every day for inspiration and sometimes consolation. It was fascinating to watch such a big river push huge amounts of water and ice up and down, all day long.

I did my externship at The River Cafe, located directly beneath the Brooklyn Bridge on the East River. The restaurant was fastened to a barge, and water in the river was extremely fast-moving as it squeezed into the narrow mouth from the bay. For me, it was the perfect metaphor for the hectic pace of New York City.

I went on to work in the kitchens of Ilo, Le Bernardin, and Per Se. They were intense, high-paced environments that put out very complex dishes in a highly orchestrated setting. My winddown would involve running and the water. I began to do a lot of long distance running, and I would always plan routes near the water. I lived just a few blocks south of the George Washington Bridge, and I loved to jog across the bridge into Fort Lee, New Jersey, and down the footpath of Fort Washington Park. The immensity of the bridge and river would merge, at some points even rivaling the high energy of living in such a dynamic city.

After New York, I spent two years working in Martha’s Vineyard and Boston. The coastline of the Northeast and the local seafood is so different from the Lowcountry of South Carolina, but the people who live near the water share so many qualities and have so many similar outlooks. This is even more prevalent in communities where a big part of their livelihoods are dependent on the water, whether tourism or fishing. “Water people” have a connection to each other.

Ultimately, the water helped me find my way back home. I arrived back in Charleston after 10 years, and one of the first things I did was take a boat down to Bass Creek on Kiawah. I zipped down the creek knowing where every sandbar and oyster bed was. I could do it with my eyes closed. It felt like home.

“When you buy from the folks who make their living on the land and water, you get to know their struggles and challenges, and to know the role we as customers play in that.”

I landed at Carolinas Restaurant, and I knew that seafood was going to play a big part of the menu. In those days, a guy would show up at the back door with 100 pounds of mahi-mahi, already cut into filets and packed in bags of ice, the ice sitting directly on the flesh. Having grown up on the water, I knew what happens when you catch a fish, how to handle it properly to keep it pristine—and that’s what I wanted to serve on my menu.

I began to seek out and meet local fisherman like Tommy Edwards (shrimper), Clammer Dave (clams and oysters), Kimberly Carroll (blue crabs), and Mark Marhefka (fisherman). At the time, few chefs—like Ben Berryhill, Nico Romo, and Charles Arena—were buying from Mark, and we used to have to go pick the fish up at the docks. A year later, Mark got a truck with a cooler on it and started delivering downtown, and that helped fuel a new outlet of local seafood by chefs all over town.

When I joined Steve Palmer at Oak Steakhouse in 2010, we introduced fresh local seafood and oysters to the classic steakhouse menu. A year later, when we opened The Macintosh, seafood played an even bigger role in what type of cuisine we serve.

Buying from local producers, whether fishermen or farmers, is very important to us. You start getting the bigger picture and the whole story by making these connections and having relationships. When you buy from the folks who make their living on the land and water, you get to know their struggles and challenges, and to know the role we as customers play in that.

We have been platinum members of the Sustainable Seafood Initiative, now known as the Good Catch Program, for the last nine years. It is a program put together by the South Carolina Aquarium that grades the seafood we are using and sourcing. We buy from local fisherman who make their living off the water, not recreational fisherman, and we take great pains to make sure they are, to use the motto of the Good Catch Program, “fishing for the future.”

On down days, my wife and I get out on the water in our 15-foot creek boat. I’m extremely fortunate that she likes to fish, and she is pretty good at it, too. I get so much joy watching her catch a fish. Even if it’s a stingray that jumped on her line, her excitement is peak level. Other times when the fish aren’t biting we will just find a creek to tuck into and open up a bottle of wine. Those creeks are so peaceful, with long periods of silence broken only by a dolphin surfacing or an occasional plane passing overhead.

One thing that fascinates me about the water is that it seems to exist in a continuous state of duality, carrying deep, eternal themes while also speaking in a present tense. It can move forth with such a slow and heavy force and at the same time have a dynamic and wild immediacy that is full of constant life.

Out there on the water is where I feel most comfortable. Just rocking on the boat, sitting still and listening to the sound of the waves hitting the sides. It’s a place that forces me to listen, watch, feel the water, and have patience. It’s about what’s going on in a whole other world—the one on the water and the one under it.

And, for me, it just feels like home.

THE LOWCOUNTRY OF SOUTH CAROLINA is home to a fishery that is considered a success story. During the 1980s, conservation initiatives banned the use of gill nets and gave several species gamefish status, meaning they could no longer be sold commercially. The fishery has rebounded. Charleston guide Peter Brown was one of the first flats guides in the area and helped pioneer shallow water sight-fishing, now a common practice. “Catching fish on a consistent basis takes an understanding of tides, weather, wind, and moon phases. Tides range from 4-8 feet, a guide has to know precisely when, where, and how to fish, often in places that would otherwise be inaccessible.”

SHALLOW WATER FISHING is a more technical way of chasing fish that are wary of any loud noise or disturbance from the boat. Getting close enough to cast and hook fish is more of a stalking technique; more like hunting. It’s a concerted effort between angler and guide. Communication is essential, and the guide will often spot the fish and tell the angler where to place the lure. Sometimes the right cast is just a few feet ahead of cruising fish, but often when casting to a school the approach is to cast beyond them and work the lure or fly into the fish. When people refer to fish “tailing” they are referring to high water feeding activity in which the fish are rooting for fiddler crabs in the salt marsh, often waving their tails above the surface. The cast usually needs to go within a foot or two of the fish and the main goal is just getting the fish to see the fly or lure. Sometimes the fish have to be tricked into eating the lure, but other times they devour it as soon as it hits the water.

Most schooling activity occurs during the cooler months of the year, October through March, when the water is clear, bait is less prevalent and the fish respond well to flies and artificial lures. As the water warms into spring and summer, the fish eat a variety of natural baits like blue crab, mullet, shrimp, and fiddler crabs. They will still hit lures under the right conditions and particularly love to eat a fly when they are “tailing” in the grass, which typically happens on spring tides during the new and full moons. There are other times when the tide is wind-driven and will reach heights normally only seen during those moons, thus allowing fish to access the short “hard marsh” where the fiddler crabs live. Seeing a big redfish attack a fly in a foot of water is something that people never forget.

GRILLED RED DRUM WITH SAUCE GRIBICHE

SERVES 4

Red drum is one of my favorite fish to catch and cook. This South Carolina fish is a huge conservation success story. Due to its popularity, it was becoming scarce. Fishing for it commercially was stopped for many years. Whereas it still cannot be sold commercially in South Carolina, red drum is a popular game fish here in South Carolina.

Also, I think it is the perfect fish for the home cook as it is one of the easiest fishes to get a good crispy skin. Make sure the skin of the fish is extra dry before cooking. My trick is to run the edge of a knife back and forth across the grain of the skin. It’s almost like you a squeegeeing the moisture out of the skin.

Sauce Gribiche is such a great sauce for summertime and grilling. There is such a nice contrast between the chilled sauce and the hot fish. This is my version of the classic French sauce. I often call it “Broken Sauce Gribiche.” Instead of emulsifying all the ingredients like in the classic version, I just toss all the ingredients in the oil. Just put all the ingredients into a container and throw it in your cooler. The sauce is ready!

FOR THE SAUCE GRIBICHE:

• 2 TEASPOONS CHOPPED CAPERS, DRAINED AND RINSED

• ½ CUP EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

• 2 HARD-BOILED EGGS, BOTH YOLKS AND WHITES FINELY CHOPPED

• 1 TABLESPOON FINELY CHOPPED CORNICHON PICKLES

• 1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY LEAVES

• 2 TEASPOONS WHOLE-GRAIN MUSTARD

• 1 TEASPOON KOSHER SALT

• 1 TABLESPOON RED WINE VINEGAR

PLACE ALL the ingredients in a medium bowl and stir to combine. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Cooking Tip: I recommend adding the vinegar to the Sauce Gribiche just before serving. The acid in the vinegar will turn the fresh parsley brown if left together for too long.

FOR THE RED DRUM:

• 4 FILETS (6-OUNCE EACH) RED DRUM

• 2 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL

• KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

PREHEAT A CLEAN grill to medium-high.

Cross hatch the skin of the fish fillets. Brush both sides of the fish with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place the fish on the grill. Close the lid and cook, turning once, until medium, about 4 to 5 minutes per side.

To serve, place the fish on the plate and top with a generous spoonful of the Sauce Gribiche.

SAMBAL CHIMICHURRI

SERVES 4 TO 6

Chimichurri is an Argentinean sauce most commonly served with red meat, but it is also delicious drizzled over grilled fish. I find it to be a really nice enhancer to any grilled dish. It gives the flavor of the char a little kiss of heat.

And I must emphasize … a little kiss of heat. I am not a huge heat fan. I think too much heat in a sauce can detract from the dish. But if used correctly as a seasoning agent, hot sauce can really enhance a recipe. I find that ingredients like hot sauce and a squeeze of lemon juice really can help push flavors forward onto the palate.

In this recipe, I add Sambal, a spicy Southeast Asian chili sauce made from hot red chile peppers, salt, and sometimes vinegar, instead of classic hot sauce. It’s a little less vinegary and acidic than some of the American hot sauces.

• 2 CUPS FRESH PARSLEY LEAVES

• ½ CUP FRESH CILANTRO LEAVES

• 1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED

• 1 CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

• ½ CUP WHITE WINE VINEGAR

• 3 TABLESPOONS SAMBAL CHILI SAUCE

• 3 TABLESPOONS MIRIN

• 1 TABLESPOON FRESHLY SQUEEZED LEMON JUICE

• 1 TABLESPOON FRESH OREGANO

• KOSHER SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

COMBINE ALL the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until the herbs and garlic are finely chopped and the sauce has come together, but not pureed. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

JO’S CRAB QUICHE

SERVES 8

This is my mom’s recipe and it was the first recipe I mastered.

When I was a kid about 13 years old, we had a crab trap. I have fond memories of my grandmother taking us out to Folly Beach to catch crabs.

My grandmother was a rustic cook and would just boil up the crabs. My mother however loved to watch Julia Child and Jacques Pepin on TV. She started experimenting with their sophisticated French style of cooking. That’s where she got the idea for this crab quiche.

We would pick the crabs we caught and Mom would make this recipe with the meat.

I started helping her out and discovered that cooking was fun. Plus as a growing teen, I was always hungry and this was one of my favorite dishes. So I learned to make it so I could have it whenever I wanted.

Cooking Tip: Shrimp can be substituted for the crab meat. The shrimp should be peeled, de-veined, and cooked before adding to the quiche filling. I also recommend dicing it into small pieces.

FOR THE PASTRY DOUGH:

• 1 ½ CUPS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR

• ½ TEASPOON SALT

• ½ CUP COLD UNSALTED BUTTER, CUT INTO PEA-SIZE PIECES

• 1 TABLESPOON WATER

SIFT TOGETHER the flour and salt and place the mixture in a large bowl. Using a pastry blender, cut the butter into the flour mixture until crumbly. Sprinkle the water over the mixture. Blend together by gently tossing with a fork and pushing to the side of the bowl. Once the mixture is moistened and holds together, form the dough into a ball.

Flatten on a lightly floured surface and roll out the dough to 1/8-inch thickness.

Place the dough into a 9-inch pie pan, flute edges as desired. Refrigerate while making the filling.

FOR THE FILLING:

• 1 CUP SHREDDED SWISS CHEESE

• 1 CUP SHREDDED GRUYERE CHEESE

• 1 TABLESPOON ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR

• 3 LARGE EGGS

• 1 CUP LIGHT WHIPPING CREAM

• ½ TEASPOON PREPARED YELLOW MUSTARD

• ¼ TEASPOON WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE

• ¼ TEASPOON KOSHER SALT

• DASH OF FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

• DASH OF BOTTLED HOT PEPPER SAUCE

• 1 POUND FRESH LUMP CRAB, PICKED OF SHELLS (ABOUT 1 TO 1 ½ CUPS)

PREHEAT THE OVEN to 400°F.

In a medium bowl, toss together the cheeses with the flour. Set aside.

In another bowl, beat together the eggs, cream, mustard, Worcestershire, salt, pepper, and hot sauce.

Place 3/4 of the cheese mixture into the bottom of the prepared pie crust and spread into an even layer. Spoon the crab over the cheese in an even layer. Top with the remaining cheese mixture. Pour the egg mixture over the top.

Bake for 30 minutes, or until the egg mixture is set.

SOY PICKLED SHIITAKES

MAKES ABOUT I CUP

Have you had pickled mushrooms? If not, you must try them. They are delicious on their own … but I always like to mix the pickled mushrooms with sautéed mushrooms. The two preparations together make such a great flavor contrast.

We have a wonderful abbey nearby that grows mushrooms. They are a supplier for the restaurant … and my personal table. Two of my favorites are their shiitakes and their oyster mushrooms. Both of these have such solid flavor.

I make pickled mushrooms with the shiitakes … and then toss them with sautéed oyster mushrooms.

The best way to sauté the mushrooms is simply. Just use butter, chicken stock, and salt and pepper. To finish them off, toss in some minced fresh herbs.

And serve this combo like I do … spooned over fluffy Carolina Gold rice.

FOR THE ROASTED MUSHROOMS:

• 2 CUPS SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS

• 1 ½ TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL

• KOSHER SALT

FOR THE PICKLING SAUCE:

• 2 TEASPOONS KOSHER SALT

• 2 TEASPOONS FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

• 1 CUP SUGAR

• 2 CUPS RICE WINE VINEGAR

• 1 CUP CIDER VINEGAR

• 1 ½ CUPS SOY SAUCE

• 1 JALAPEÑO, MINCED

• 3 TABLESPOONS GROUND GINGER

• 2 TABLESPOONS MUSTARD SEEDS

• 1 TABLESPOON CORIANDER SEEDS

• 1 ½ CUPS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

PREHEAT THE OVEN to 425°F.

Toss the mushrooms, olive oil, and salt to taste in a bowl. Spread on a baking sheet in an even layer. Roast, stirring a few times, until tender and browned, 30 to 35 minutes. Set aside to cool.

In a bowl, whisk together all the pickling sauce ingredients except the olive oil. Place the roasted mushrooms in a plastic container, cover with the pickling sauce, and then add the olive oil. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks

CAROLINA GOLD RICE

SERVES 4 TO 6

Carolina Gold is a delicate long-grain rice grown here at home in the Carolinas. There is a lot of heritage behind this rice and I am excited this locally-grown ingredient is regaining popularity. Charleston was built on rice. It is part of our history and one of the few crops we can grow here due to our warm weather and low country.

Before cooking this rice, be sure to rinse it several times. This will eliminate all the extra starch and help give you a fluffy finished product.

• 2 TABLESPOONS UNSALTED BUTTER

• 2 CUPS CAROLINA GOLD RICE

• 1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED

• 4 CUPS WATER

• 1 TEASPOON KOSHER SALT

PLACE THE RICE in a colander and rinse under cold water.

In a medium saucepot, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Stir in the rice and garlic and cook until translucent, about 1 minute. Slowly stir in the water. Add the salt.

Over high heat, bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove the lid and fluff the rice with a fork. Serve warm.

“One thing that fascinates me about the water is that it seems to exist in a continuous state of duality, carrying deep, eternal themes while also speaking in a present tense. It can move forth with such a slow and heavy force and at the same time have a dynamic and wild immediacy that is full of constant life.”