Читать книгу Japanese Homestyle Dishes - Susie Donald - Страница 6
ОглавлениеJapanese Cooking Utensils
| Bamboo rolling mat (makisu): Widely available from Asian supermarkets and very inexpensive, this simple bamboo mat is a must-have utensil for rolling rice inside wrappers of seaweed and for rolling Japanese omelets. Fish-bone tweezers (hone nuki): A pair of flat-ended tweezers is always present in a Japanese kitchen for deboning fish. | |
| Hotpot: A circular clay pot with a cover, used for cooking soups and stews. It can be placed directly over a gas flame or on an electric hotplate. Its main advantage is that it can be transferred to the table, where it will keep food hot during the meal. Substitute with an earthenware casserole pot or a Dutch oven. | |
| Omelet pan: The Japanese omelet pan is usually square-shaped, about 1 inch (3 cm) deep, traditionally used for making sushi omelets. It can be substituted by a conventional round skillet about 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter; trim the sides of the omelet once it has been cooked to make it square. Rice-cooling bowl (hangiri): This low, wide wooden bowl is used to cool cooked rice to give it the desired texture. The wider the bowl, the better to separate the rice grains. | |
| Rice paddle (shamoji): The wooden rice scoop is used to spread cooked rice in the hangiri to cool. It traditionally represents domestic authority; whoever controls the shamoji in a Japanese household is in charge of the household affairs. |
Basic Japanese Ingredients
Agar-agar (kanten) is a gelatin made from seaweed and can be purchased as strands, sticks, flakes or powder. It is commonly used to thicken ice cream, jelly and pudding. It is readily available in the dried foods section.
Bamboo shoots must first be peeled, sliced and simmered for 30 minutes till tender, before use. If using canned bamboo shoots, it is best to boil them in water for 5 minutes before preparing. Canned bamboo shoots are available at most grocery stores, however, Chinese grocery stores often carry the fresh shoots packed in plastic pouches.
Burdock root is a long, skinny root enjoyed more for its texture than its flavor. After scraping off the skin, it should be put into water immediately to prevent discoloring. Also available canned. If available fresh, it has a rough, dark grey exterior. Only the roots are used for food.
Chinese olive vegetable is available as a pickle, served as an accompaniment to sushi.
Crab sticks are long, narrow cylinders of compressed seafood that are intended as an inexpensive substitute to king crab legs. Sold in some supermarkets and Japanese fish stores.
Daikon is a large white radish often eaten raw––sliced or grated––with sashimi and tempura. It is also pickled and sold in jars. Daikon is readily available in most supermarkets.
Dashi stock is the basic Japanese fish broth made from water, konbu (dried kelp) and bonito flakes (page 16); it is also available in an instant version in packets. This is very useful when a small amount of stock is required for sauces and as a seasoning.
Dried bonito flakes (katsuo bushi) are sold in plastic packs in Asian food stores; larger flakes are used to make Basic Dashi Stock (page 16) whereas the finer ones are used as a garnish.
Fish sauce is a fermented fish product made by layering fish and salt in large jars and then siphoning off the liquid. It is sold bottled and is a common seasoning in Thai and Vietnamese food.
Furikake is a topping for rice dishes; it comprises toasted seaweed, sesame seeds, ground dried fish and salt.
Ginger is widely used in Japanese recipes. Fresh ginger is always used instead of ground ginger, which has a very different taste. Young ginger is preferred as it is more tender and juicy. Pickled Ginger (page 40) is a popular accompaniment to sushi and sashimi.
Glutinous rice is a variety of rice that becomes very sticky when cooked. Mainly used in snacks, sweets and desserts. This rice must be washed thoroughly and soaked overnight before steaming. Also available as finely milled glutinous rice flour.
Green tea powder (matcha) is readily available from Asian food stores. It is great for making Green Tea Ice Cream (page 126).
Japanese cucumbers are small and do not have the coarse seeds or high water content of Western cucumbers. Substitute baby cucumbers or pickling gherkins.
Jellyfish is generally sold as salted or dried strips; it is commonly used in vinegared salads. It is sold in plastic packages in the refrigerator section of supermarkets.
Kanpyo are long, thin, dried gourd strips used in sushi and slow-cooked dishes; also for tying food together.
Konbu is a dried kelp in the form of flat black sheets with white powder on the surface, used to flavor Sushi Rice (pages 12-13) and Basic Dashi Stock (page 16). The kelp’s flavor infuses quickly in water, so do not wash it before cooking—just wipe to remove any dust or powder. Konbu is often removed before a dish is served.
Lotus roots are the thick tubers of the aquatic lotus plant. It has a crunchy, powdery taste in its raw form. It is sold either covered in mud in the vegetable section, or cleaned and wrapped in plastic packets in the refrigerator section of the supermarket. A good substitute is jicama or cauliflower.
Mirin is a sweet cooking wine made by mixing steamed glutinous rice with distilled spirits and sugar. The resulting liquid contains 12% to 14% alcohol. Avoid products labeled “ aji-mirin ” as they are a MSG-flavored version.
Miso is an important seasoning in Japan—a fermented paste made from soybeans and rice, wheat or barley. It is available in various colors and flavors, but the most common are red and white misos, which are used in miso soups. Readily available in Asian food stores.
Nori refers to the dried leaves of a seaweed called laver, and is generally sold in 8 x 7-in (20 x 17 cm) sheets and used for wrapping sushi or cut into strips as a garnish. Nori is best toasted to make it crisp and fragrant (see instructions on page 64). Also sold pretoasted and packed flat in bags.
Palm sugar varies in color from gold to dark brown and is made from the sap of the coconut or aren palm. It has a rich flavor similar to dark brown sugar, molasses or maple syrup, all of which make good substitutes. Available in Asian food stores in plastic containers or packets.
Ponzu is a dressing made from citrus juice (lemon, lime or orange) mixed with soy, sugar and vinegar. Available bottled but you can also make your own fresh using the recipe on page 15.
Prepared Japanese mustard is
similar to English mustard, but hotter —it is a blend of ground mustard seeds without flour. It can be purchased in powdered form in small cans or as a ready-to-use paste in tubes.
Red beans (azuki) are small, red and oval in shape with a light, nutty flavor and a fairly thin skin. They are used to make red rice for auspicious occasions, or boiled and sweetened to make a sweet bean paste, which is the base for many Japanese desserts. Sold dried or as a sweetened paste in cans.
Rice vinegar is a light, mildly tangy vinegar brewed from rice. Its color varies from almost white to pale gold.
Sake is a brewed Japanese rice wine. Chinese rice wine or dry sherry may be substituted.
Sansho pepper is made from the ground seeds of the Japanese prickly ash plant. Available in small glass bottles in Asian food stores, it gives a hot flavor to fatty foods such as eel. Substitute dried Sichuan pepper or ground red cayenne pepper.
Sesame oil should be used sparingly as a seasoning and not for frying. It has a rich nutty flavor and fragrance. Available in most grocery stores. Japanese sesame oil is milder than Chinese, so when using the latter, you may want to dilute it with a bit of vegetable oil.
Sesame paste is made from toasted sesame seeds that are ground up like peanut butter, but unsweetened. Commonly available in Asian food stores. Substitute tahini or make your own by pan-roasting and then grinding the seeds in a food processor.
Sesame salt (goma shio) is a mixture of toasted black sesame seeds (either whole or ground) and salt, and is a popular Japanese condiment.
Sesame seeds are available either white or black and are often pan-roasted (page 79) and sprinkled over cooked foods for added flavor.
Seven-spice chili mix is a potent blend of ground chili with other seasonings such as mustard, sansho pepper, black sesame and poppy seeds. It is often sprinkled on noodles, grilled items and one-pot dishes.
Shiitake mushrooms , also known as Chinese black mushrooms, are sold fresh or dried. They have a dark brown outer skin, a beige inner flesh, and a slightly woody flavor. Dried shiitakes can be substituted for fresh ones; soak for 10 to 15 minutes in hot water until tender, then drain. Discard the stems.
Shirataki noodles are thin strings of konnyaku , a glutinous paste obtained from the starchy elephant foot plant. They are eaten in sukiyaki and other hotpots. Substitute mung bean vermicelli (glass noodles).
Shiso leaves (also known as perilla leaves) have a fresh, slightly minty flavor. They are served with sashimi (and should be eaten with it), made into tempura and used in various ways to garnish sushi. Substitute mint leaves. The buds are made into a strong-flavored condiment, and the very young buds are made into tempura.
Short-grain Japanese rice is now grown in California and can be readily purchased everywhere. The most common variety is uruchi mai or nonglutinous rice (see pages 12–13 for recipe for cooking Japanese rice). The glutinous variety, mochi gome , absorbs more water than regular rice and is much stickier. Uncooked rice should be stored in an airtight container at room temperature.
Smoked conger eel (anago) is lightly boiled, grilled and basted before serving. Available in the refrigerator section of Asian supermarkets.
Soba noodles are thin, light brown noodles, sold fresh or in dried bundles. Follow the directions on the packet when boiling and rinse in cold water after cooking to remove the starch. Substitute buck wheat spaghetti.
Somen noodles are very fine, flat wheat noodles normally sold in dried sticks. Boil until cooked but still firm, then rinse in cold water to remove the starch. Substitute ramen or angel hair pasta.
Soy sauce (shoyu) is fermented from soya beans and salt, and commonly used in marinades, sauces and dips. Substitute normal Chinese soy sauce.
Tezu vinegared water (page 12) is used for moistening the fingers when making sushi to prevent the rice from sticking to them.
Thai chili sauce is used mainly as a dipping sauce. Some sauces are sweeter than others and go particularly well with either chicken or seafood, and are so labeled. Available in bottles or jars.
Tofu (soybean curd) is available in various forms. Firm tofu has a slightly stronger and more sour flavor; soft tofu crumbles easily but has a more silky texture and refined flavor. Tofu skin is the thin layer of soy protein that forms on the surface of soybean milk when boiled to make tofu. The dried variety (tofu sheet) is produced when the film-like layer is skimmed and dried. Deep-fried tofu slices (abura-age) must be blanched before serving. Seasoned tofu slices are now available in cans or frozen packets in many Asian food stores. When cut in half, these slices serve as food pouches (pages 48, 51).
Udon noodles are thick, round, whitish-beige wheat noodles. Boil until cooked but still firm, then rinse to remove the starch; finally, reheat and serve al dente. Substitute Chinese wheat noodles or angel hair pasta.
Wakame is a type of seaweed available in dried strips. Soak in water for 5 to 10 minutes before using. Also sold seasoned and packed in plastic, in the refrigerator section of the supermarket.
Wasabi (Japanese horseradish) is unrelated to Western horseradish but produces a similarly sharp, biting effect on the tongue and in the nose. It is used
to season sushi and is commonly available in a powdered form that can be reconstituted by mixing with warm water to form a thick paste. The mixture should be allowed to stand for about 10 minutes to let the flavors develop. If you can find it, freshly grated wasabi root has a much more intense flavor.
Buying Fish for Sashimi and Sushi
The most important consideration when selecting fish to use for sushi and sashimi is freshness. Quite simply, if the fish and seafood used are not extremely fresh, then the sushi and sashimi will not be good.
For shellfish—both hard and soft-shelled—extremely fresh usually means alive at the time of purchase and kept alive until required.
The types of fish and seafood most commonly used in Japan are mentioned here, but these should only act as a guide. Most fish can be eaten raw so we recommend that you use whatever available fresh fish is in season.
As a rule, frozen fish should be avoided when preparing dishes to be eaten raw. This is not only due to the health risk associated with fish that is less than fresh, but also because the flavor and texture are usually compromised. A generally accepted exception to this rule is tuna and squid which have been flash-frozen. If your fishmonger can guarantee that the fish has been treated in this manner, then you will probably find it to be a satisfactory substitute.
Some fish and seafood are precooked before being used in sushi and sashimi, such as shrimp, crab or lobster. Salmon is often smoked or salted; octopus and eel are often boiled or marinated. For sashimi, only the best parts or cuts are normally used. For example, the body of a squid (and not the tentacles) and only the prime fillets of a tuna are used.
Cutting Tips
Fish and seafood are usually cut into long, thin strips and pieces for sushi and sashimi. Use a long, thin, very sharp knife for cutting raw fish. Handle the fish as little as possible, by cutting each slice in a single motion, without sawing back and forth, as the friction will warm up the fish. Similarly, use the knife blade to lift or move slices on the cutting board or to place on the serving plate instead of your hands which will also warm up the fish.
Ideally, fish should be sliced as thinly as possible, and this is usually determined by the firmness of the fish. The firmer the fish, the thinner it can and should
be sliced.
Ways of Cutting Fish
| Paper-thin sashimi slices Fish must be very fresh. Fillet can also be refrigerated for 10 minutes before slicing. Hold the fillet with one hand. Incline the knife at a 45° angle and slice very thinly, about 1/8 in (3 mm), from the left to the right of the fish. | |
| Thin sushi slices Cut the fillet crosswise into 1/8-in to 1/4-in (3–6-mm) thick slices. Depending on the thickness of the fillet, these may be rectangular slices, bars or strips. | |
| Cubes Cut thick, soft-fleshed fish into 3/4-in (2-cm) cubes by cutting fillet cross-wise into 3/4-in (2-cm) strips, and then cutting these strips into 3/4-in (2-cm) pieces. | |
| Strips Cut very thin fillets diagonally or cross-wise into strips 3/4-in to 2-in (2-5 cm) wide and no longer than 2 in (5 cm) long. These strips (or threads) are then piled into a mound for serving. |
How to Prepare Basic Sushi Rice
Short-grain Japanese rice is readily available in Asian markets, and usually includes the word “rose” in its name, e.g. “Japan Rose” or “California Rose”; it may also simply be labeled “Japanese Rice”. Although often referred to as glutinous or sticky rice, the variety most commonly eaten by the Japanese— uruchi mai —is non-glutinous; the slight stickiness is due to the larger amount of water used during cooking.
11/4 cups (250 g) uncooked short-grain Japanese rice
Cold water to wash rice
3-in (8-cm) square piece konbu (dried kelp)
11/4 cups (300 ml) water
1 tablespoon sake
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Tezu (vinegared water)
When making sushi, tezu is used to moisten the fingers to prevent the rice from sticking to them.
1/2 cup (125 ml) water 1 tablespoon (15 ml) rice vinegar
Mix the two ingredients and use as required.
Makes 2 1/2 cups Preparation time: 10 mins Cooking time: 15 mins
| 1 Place the rice in a large bowl or saucepan and add enough cold water to cover. Stir the rice with your fingers for 1 minute until the water becomes quite cloudy. Drain in a colander and repeat the process 3 or 4 times until the water is almost clear. Drain in a colander and set aside for at least 1 hour. | |
| 2 Wipe the konbu with a damp cloth to remove any grit, but do not try to wipe off the white powder. Using scissors, cut the konbu into 4 pieces. | |
| 3 Place the rice in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the water and sake, and place the konbu pieces on top. Cook over medium heat and remove the konbu just before it reaches boiling point (otherwise the rice becomes slimy). When the broth reaches a rolling boil, reduce heat to low, cover the saucepan, and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until all the liquid is absorbed. (Try not to lift the lid too many times to check this). | |
| 4 Remove from the heat; leave covered for 15 minutes. Using a wooden spoon or rice paddle, gently fold the rice to fluff it up. Place a kitchen towel over the saucepan and cover with the lid. Leave for 10 minutes to absorb excess moisture. Dissolve the sugar and salt with the vinegar in a small, non-metal bowl. Spread the rice out to dry in a large, non-metal shallow container, about 12 in (30 cm) across, and sprinkle on the vinegar mixture. | |
| 5 Fold the vinegared-rice gently with one hand while fanning the rice with the other. An electric fan can also be used. Continue fanning and folding the rice until it reaches room temperature, about 5 minutes. This quick cooling process is essential to achieve the desired texture, consistency and flavor of Sushi Rice. | |
| 6 Cover the container with a damp kitchen towel. The rice is now ready to be used and can be kept for up to 4 hours. Do not refrigerate the rice as this hardens and dries the grains. |
Basic Japanese Dips and Sauces
Soy Dipping Sauce
Soy sauce
Dash of sesame paste (page 7) or wasabi (optional)
1 Japanese-style soy is the most basic of all dipping sauces. It may also be mixed with a little sesame paste or wasabi for added flavor.
Tempura Dipping Sauce
1 cup (250 ml) Basic Dashi Stock (page 16) or 1/2 teaspoon instant dashi granules dissolved in 1 cup (250 ml) boiling water
4 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons mirin
3 teaspoons freshly grated daikon
3 teaspoons freshly grated ginger
1 Combine all ingredients in a bowl and stir well to mix.
Sesame Seed Sauce
3/4 cup (100 g) white sesame seeds, toasted
1 tablespoon miso
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons mirin
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons sake
6 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon prepared Japanese mustard
3 tablespoons Basic Dashi Stock (page 16) or 1/4 teaspoon instant dashi granules dissolved in 3 tablespoons boiling water
1 Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and blend until smooth.
Mustard Sauce
1/4 cup (60 ml) soy sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
2 teaspoons prepared Japanese mustard
1 Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and blend until smooth.
Ponzu Sauce
1/4 cup (60 ml) lemon juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) soy sauce
3 tablespoons Basic Dashi Stock (page 16) or 1/4 teaspoon instant dashi granules dissolved in 3 tablespoons boiling water
1 tablespoon mirin
1 Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and stir well.
Homemade Japanese Mayonnaise
3 whole eggs
1 teaspoon prepared Japanese mustard
Salt and black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons lime juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 cups (500 ml) light vegetable oil, not canola
1 Combine the eggs, mustard, salt, pepper, lime juice, and crushed garlic and process until light and frothy. Then gradually add the oil while processing, until the mayonnaise is thick.
2 Transfer to a storage jar, refrigerate, and use as required.
Sesame Salt (Goma Shio)
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds
2 teaspoons salt
1 Dry-roast the sesame seeds in a skillet until they splatter. Transfer the toasted seeds to a bowl and coat in the salt. Let cool and use as needed.
Coriander Pesto
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 oz (30 g) macadamia nuts or pine nuts
Juice from 1/2 lemon
1 cup (50 g) coriander leaves (cilantro) and stems
Salt and black pepper, to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) oil
1 Combine the garlic, nuts, lemon juice, coriander leaves, salt and pepper, and process. Drizzle the oil through the funnel to form a smooth, light paste. Do not over process.
2 Pour into a clean airtight jar, smooth down the top, and cover surface with a thin layer of oil. Seal and refrigerate until required.
Basic Dashi Stock (Bonito Flake Stock)
